k v:x^ 







TRAVELS 



IN LANDS 



BEYOND THE SEA. 



BEAUTY AND GLORY OF WESTERN 
EUROPE. 



ELOQUENT AND RELIABLE PEN 
PICTURES 



Castles, Cathedrals and Cities ; Palaces, Prisons and 
People ; Museums, Monuments and Mount- 
ains ; Seas, Ships and Storms 

/ ■ ■£•*?■ %> 

CHARLES D.°LINSKILL, '^1 

EDITOR WILKES-BARRt TELEPHONE, AND AUTHOR OF THE "HERE 
AND THERE" LETTERS. 



WILKES- BAR RE, PA. \ 
ROBT. BAUR & SON, PRINTERS, 3 S. MAIN ST. 

l! 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1888, by 

CHARLES DORRANCE LINSKILL, 
in the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 



1$ 



[Of 



L1B*A»*1 



CONG** 1 * 1 ] 



J. W. RAEDER, BINDER, 
71! MARKET ST., WtLKES-BARRE, PA. 



TO THE 

COMRADES OF MY YOUTH, 
WHOSE COMPANIONSHIP CHEERED ME; 

TO THE 

ASSOCIATES OF MY EARLY MANHOOD, 

WHOSE CONFIDENCE STRENGTHENED ME; 

AND TO THE 

FRIENDS OF MY MATURE YEARS, 

WHOSE PATRONAGE 

HAS ENABLED ME TO TRAVEL AND WRITE, 

THIS VOLUME 

IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED. 



PRESS NOTICES. 



From Editor J. C. Powell, of the Wilkes- fiarre Record, and Published 

in the Issue of Dec. fjth, j888 : 

I met Mr. Linskill, author and editor, the other day, and he told me 
his new book would soon make its appearance. I predict for the vol- 
ume a large sale as soon as it is launched. Mr. Linskill is a good 
descriptive writer and while abroad he traveled with his eyes and ears 
wide open. The letters that he sent to the Telephone were very inter- 
esting, and they gave him ample scope for the exercise of his literary 
powers; but his book will be still more interesting, for he has had time 
since his return to scan his note-book carefully and to search for the 
buried treasures of his mind. I am not surprised that Judge Harding, 
in ordering a copy of the forthcoming book, should predict that it would 
prove so interesting and valuable that it would supplant in his library 
a place hitherto occupied by some of the rarest gems in English liter- 
ature. 

From the Plymouth Star : — 

Charles I). Linskill, of the Wilkes- Barre Telephone,'^ arranging his 
letters from F.urope, which were originally published in his paper (where 
they attracted a great deal of attention and were most favorably com- 
mented upon), for publication in book form. * * * The price will 
be two dollars, which places it within the reach of all. * * * Mr. 
Linskill's letters have been highly praised and their publication in book 
form urged by many prominent men. 

Nov. 8th, 1888. 



From the Evening Leader, IVilkes-Barre, Pa. : — 

MR. LINSKILL'S HOOK SOON TO BE ISSUED. 

" Travels in Lands Beyond the Sea ; or, the Beauty and Glory of 
Western Europe," is the title under which Mr. C. D. Linskill will soon 
lay before the public a detailed history of his journeyings abroad. They 



VI PRESS NOTICES. 

will constitute a book of over four hundred pages, and those who have 
read his foreign correspondence to the Telephone, of which he is one of 
the editors, well know how to appreciate the forthcoming work. He 
has received nattering testimonials from clergymen, judges and other 
professional men of note, and indications point to a very large sale. 

From the Wilkes-Barre Telegram : — 

Mr. C. D. Linskill's new book, entitled " In Lands Beyond the Sea ; 
or, the Beauty and Glory of Western Europe," is a most interesting book 
and a copy of it should be in every household. The price asked for it 
is extremely low. The author is well and favorably known to nearly 
every person in Luzerne county. 

From the Wilkes-Bttrrk News- Dealer : — 

Mr. Charles I». Linskill, the versatile writer, is editing an interest- 
ing book which will be given to the public in a short time. Its title 
will lie "Travels in Lands Beyond the Sea; or, the Beauty and Glory 
of Western Europe." We have read with much interest Mr. Linskill's 
recent letters from Europe, which were not only very interesting, but 
instructive as well. We predict a large sale for the new book. 



From the Sunday World: — 

Editor Linskill, of the Telephone, is writing a book entitled " Travels 
in Lands Beyond the Sea," which is shortly to appear. The book will 
be interesting and instructive, clothed in that beautiful language for 
which Mr. linskill is famous. 



CONTENTS 



Press Notices v 

Testimonials 16 



CHAPTER I. 

Introductory 25 

Why and How this Volume Was Published — The Au- 
thor's Father — Came from England — Settled in Pennsyl- 
vania — Asked His Son to Make Pilgrimage — His Sudden 
Death — Correspondence Lasting Sixty Years — White, 
Roaring Billows Cannot Drown Love Letters — Bereave- 
ment, Sorrow, Labors and Cares Call for Rest and Change 
— A Friend Indeed — Getting Ready to Go — Passport, 
and Letters from Prominent Men — Governor Beaver's 
Letter — Congressman Osborne's Letter — Other Letters — 
Taking Leave — America's Shores Sink in Silver — At 
Liverpool — Through England, Ireland, Scotland, Wales, 
France ; Paris and London — Relatives Helpful — Weather 
Most Auspicious — Things Pictured on the Spot — Good 
Wishes — Grasp Each Reader by the Hand. 



CHAPTER II. 

From the Mountains to the Sea 32 

Saying " Good Bye " to Relatives, Partner and Friends 
— Looking Down on Luzerne and Other Counties — In 
New Jersey — Rushing Through Cities While Long, White, 
Guardian Arms Rise and Fall — In New York — Central 
Park — Monuments and Monsters from Beyond the Sea — 
Carriages for Pale Babies, and Proud Millionaires — Took 
Baggage to Steamship — At Coney Island; its Hotels, its 
Flowers, its Swimmers, its Wine, its Women, its Tower, 
its Friends — A Sea-shell Containing Sixty-five Master 
Musicians — The Gardens Blossom With Fire — A Place 
to Learn — A Place to Fall — Sham Battle — Bay Full of 
(1) 



IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

Ships at Night — The Heavens Frescoed With Colored 
Lights — Statue of Liberty — Brooklyn Bridge; an Artifi- 
cial Midnight Rainbow — Ready to Wave a Farewell to 
My Native Land. 



CHAPTER III. 

" Behold Also the Ships " 40 

Twenty-three Hundred Miles of Billows — Passengers 
Variously Engaged — Look Through the Great Ship ; 
Where Built ; Her Size ; One-tenth of a Mile Long ; Her 
Weight; Her Mines of Coal — Passengers — Crew — Two 
Stories Under Water — The Steerage — The Gilded Saloon 
— Ten Thousand Horses of Steel to Conquer the Sea — 
The Raging Furnaces and Sweating Firemen on the Floor 
of the Ship — "You Are Chalked" — The Vast, Virtuous 
Ocean — Noon in the Deep — Time Annihilated — The Iron 
Tunnel — Thirty-five Boat Loads of Fuel — Man Moves 
All the Oceans — Queenstown — Letters — On to Liverpool. 



CHAPTER IV. 

On the Great Deep 47 

On Board the Ship— Hot Day— An Acre of Waving 
Handkerchiefs, Damp With Tears and Perspiration — Band 
Plays " Auld Lang Syne " — Moving off Through a Laby- 
rinth of Great Things— Other Europe-bound Steamers — 
Officers Vigilant— Hills Sink With the Sun at the West 
End of a Broad, Silver Avenue— Hot Below Deck— My 
Bedroom — My Comrades — The Spouting Wliale — Ship 
Fare — Sunday on the Sea — Religious Services — Fog — 
Birds — Porpoises — Big Fish — Colored Fish — The Sea 
Tries to Mimic the Heavens — -A World of Water Five 
Miles Deep ; its Gleaming Amis Encircle the Icy North 
and the Spicy Groves of "Far Cathay" — Friends on 
Deck — What Sea Water is Like — People from all Over 
the United States and Canada — A Gallant Earl and His 
Fair Countess; Gentle Folks; They Amuse and Treat 
Poor Children — Names of Some Fellow-passengers — 
Ocean Rough— Many 111 — The Writer Keeps W r ell and 
Sways in a Hammock Worth Fifteen Hundred Thousand 
Dollars — Cool on the Sea in July — Ireland Seen Through 
Fog — Pleasant Sight — The Old " Stow-a-way " Receives 
a Sovereign — Off Queenstown — Sailing Under Birds on 
the Irish Sea. 



CONTENTS. 3 

CHAPTER V. 

The Irish Sea, and Liverpool 60 

Sunday Afternoon of Beauty and Peace — Heaven 
Weds Earth — Mountain Peaks in Wales — Nobility, 
Peasantry, Beauty and Genius Sing on Deck — Twilight 
Enchanting — Ladies Scream and Faint — Revolving Lights 
Twinkle on England's Shores — Liverpool — Our Ship 
Linked to 18,000 Pounds of Steel on the Floor of the Sea 
— Mr. Puckey Finds Me — Liverpool Docks — Cost Hun- 
dreds of Millions of Dollars — A Vast Ship-safe — The 
World's Merchandise Piled on Chiseled Rocks — Acres of 
American Pork and Lard — Handsome Ladies — Horses a 
"Ton Weight" — A Horse Under Seven Tons of Plate 
Glass — Great Buildings — Forlorn Creatures — Railway 
Trains Roaring Under Hundreds of Ships — A Wilkes- 
Barre Girl Met — Mighty Ships Cushioned in Granite 
Vases — The Angel of Light Places Her Jeweled Foot on 
the Flowing Mane of the Sea. 



CHAPTER VI. 

Liverpool, Manchester and Leeds 74 

Liverpool Buildings Gloomy — Seemed to Show Mourn- 
ing — Death on Shipboard — Pet Names — Traveling Under- 
ground — English Cars, Locomotives and Stations — Thirty- 
six Miles in Forty-five Minutes — Oaks Killed by Smoke — 
English Landscapes — Great, Busy Manchester — Ship 
Canal — Magnificent Hall — Forty Acres of Masterpieces 
in Art, Machinery, Architecture, and Flora— Crowds of 
Handsome, Well-dressed Women — Gardens Blooming 
with Colored Lights — Fountains of Gilded Water — A 
Sweet Voice — Riding Through Long, Dark Highways in 
Granite — Hedges, Stone Walls— Under Three Miles of 
Rock — Acres of Smoking Chimneys — The Guest of Kind 
People — Pleasant Walk — Extensive Buildings — Great 
Co-operative Concern — Street-cars — Dummies — Road 
Engines. 



CHAPTER VII. 

York and Whitby 8j 

Through Farms — August First, Wheat not Ripe — City 
of York — Its Beauty — Its Antiquity — Promenade on Its 
Old and Beautiful Wall — Roman Stone Coffins — Old 
Places — Old Church Hidden in a City -Magnificent Old 
York Minster; A Window Four Hundred Years Old 
Makes the Sun Paint Rare Pictures, " Worth a King- 



IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

dom; " Covers Two Thousand Four Hundred and Fifty- 
six Square Feet — A Tall Stone Ladder— Angel Tones — 
Choir Uniformed — History of the Cathedral — On Through 
Yorkshire Highlands — Grouse on Purple Heather — River 
Esk — Cousin John Wears Livery — Whitby — Cousin Ed- 
ward — One Linskill — High Cliff — White Waves Die at 
the Feet of Beauty and Innocence — The Panoramic Sea 
— Grandparents' Graves Near Great Columns and Arches 
in Ruins. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Whitby, Jet, Whaling, Ships, etc 96 

A Cleft Cliff — Houses Hanging on Rocks Above 
Ships — Red Tiles — Narrow Streets— The Market Place — 
Strawberries in August — Fishwomen — Tons of Fish Gasp- 
ing on Granite Pavements, and Buried in Salt and Ice — ■ 
Elegant West Cliff — London Visitors — Cold — Many Ships 
— A Walk With Edward — Ship- Building — Windmill — 
By the Sea — Uncle James — A Railway on Tall, IiT>n 
Stilts Above a Granite Hamlet, and Hay-Makers by the 
Chapel — A Walk With Friend Waddington — His Varied 
and Agreeable Attainments — A Walking and Free Library 
— Captain Cook — Hilda's Fine Ruins — Ancient Church — 
Humble Elliot Wrested a Title From Fate and Royalty — ■ 
A Feast at a Saloon in a Cliff — Men Gone Down to the 
Sea to Take Whales, Fish, Gold and Kingdoms — Taw- 
Bones of Whales set up for Garden and Farm Gates — - 
Alum — Jet- Works and Jet- Workers — When the Lordly 
Die, Jet-Dealers Thrive. 



CHAPTER IX. 

London: Great and Beautiful Things 104 

Heart of England — Leamington, Warwickshire — 
Oxford — Wisdom Crowns Wasting Stone — On to London 
— Sixty-Three Miles in Seventy-Five Minutes — Suburbs 
of the Great City — Paddington's Great Station — House of 
Parliament — Chamber of Commons — Music Wedded to 
Time — Sir John Puleston — House of Lords— -West- 
minster Abbey — Cousins Found — Trafalgar Square — 
National Art Gallery— The "Wild West"'— Blanketed 
Indians Under the Stars and Stripes in the World's 
Largest City — Awful Lightning and Thunder — Buffalo 
Bill, While Galloping, Shatters Glittering Balls Amid 
Lightning and Falling Rain — "Brother Jonathan" and 
"Johnny Bull" Contending Amid Clashing Elements, etc. 



CONTENTS. 5 

CHAPTER X. 

London: The Fog-, Thames, and Parks 114 

Smoke from a Million Chimneys — One Hundred and 
Fifty Square Miles of Buildings — A Modern Jonah — 
Plaided with Railways — Seven Thousand Miles of Streets 
— London Fog — Dinner by Lamp-light — Lost in the 
Street — Walked into the Dock — Beef Cattle Choke — 
Travel Blockaded — -Mails Late — Crushed by Wheels 
Unseen — What Makes the Fog — Particles of Soot En- 
cased in Oil and Clogged in Mist — Foggy Days Else- 
where — Moral — The Thames; a River, Sea, Sewer, 
Highway and Harbor — Embankment — Obelisk — Moses, 
Napoleon and Others — Royal Dwellings — Parks — 
Palaces — Black Thorns and Bright Bayonets. 



CHAPTER XL 

London's Vastness, St. Paul's Cathedral, Etc 129 

Fifteen Miles Through Mighty Buildings — Asking for 
Bread on Stone Beds— St. Paul's Marvelous Cathedral ; 
it Whispers — Marble Horses Kneel Down With Sheriffs 
While Saul of Tarsus Asks a Question — Angels, Women 
and Warriors, in Polished Marble and Bronze, Glorifying 
Dead Heroes — Traveling Without Loss — A Purse Thrust 
Into a Stranger's Bosom — A Digression — Fragments — 
Another Digression — Hospital Floating Through Salt Bil- 
lows — The Cruel God of the Sea — Three Grand Sights — 
The Land of Indian Summer — Glory Undreamed of. 



CHAPTER XII. 

Billingsgate, Tower of London, Fire, Greenwich .... 137 

Fish, Carloads and Shiploads — Where Slang Was Born 
— Monument of London — A Thousand Acres of Buildings 
Bow Into Ashes — W ild Fire Darts its Red Tongue at the 
King and at the Heavens — The Tower of London — Dun- 
geons Dark for a Thousand Years — Old Weapons of War 
Blossom in Bouquets and Decorate the Ceiling — Lady 
Jane Grey — Traitor's Gate — Fifteen Million Dollars' 
Worth of Jewelry — Garments Worn by Lovers and War- 
riors — Cannon from the Floor of the Bone-paved Sea — 
Riding on the Thames — Greenwich — Naval School — For- 
est of Fine Columns — Painted Hall — Ship Models — Nel- 
son Painted a God — True to the Vision. 



6 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Crystal Palace, Westminster Abbey, Queen's Horses, Etc . . 149 
Crystal Palace ; its Fountains, Statues, Paintings, and 
Oriental Halls — South Kensington; a City of Palaces 
Crowded With Beauties and Wonders — The Queen's 
Monument to a Loving Husband — The Museum — The 
First Steam Engine — Natural Science Museum — Birds 
Tall and Swift as Horses — Five Thousand Humming 
Birds — Whales, Etc. — The British Museum — Madam 
Toussaud's Wax Kings, Queens, Poets, Warriors, and 
Murderers — A Walk Under the River Thames — Spur- 
geon, London's Preacher — City Temple — Westminster 
Abbey, Where the Famous Dead Sleep for Centuries — 
Solemn Place, Where Stone Faces Gaze Heavenward — 
Stone Lace for Frescoing — Marble, Granite, Brass and 
Bronze Blossom Into Angels and Bouquets to Glorify the 
Beloved Dead — The Queen's Stables — Sixteen Princely 
Horses, and Two Grooms in One Bedroom — Morocco 
Harness, Gold-bound — Gilded Chariots. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

Some People and Places Beyond the Sea 162 

Questions Answered — A Floating Volcano — War- 
horses With White Manes — Ocean Robed in Crimson, 
Green and Gold — People and Clouds Smile — Places Vis- 
ited — The Largest City — The Most Beautiful City — The 
Largest Ship — Where Cannon Shook Purple Heather — 
Cousins Met in Ancient and Famous Cities — A Walk on 
the Moors — Turf Cakes and Milk — A Popular Authoress 
— With Edward on His Locomotive — Uncle James's 
Blessing — Kind Friends Mentioned. 



CHAPTER XV. 

From London to Paris, via Dover and Calais 170 

A Highway Upheld on Polished Granite Pillars — Bar- 
bers and Their Work — Moving out of London — Hops in 
Kent — Nine Tunnels — Mary Anderson and Moonlight in 
Canterbury's Glory — Dover; Its Chalk Cliffs, Its Bar- 
racks, Its Boasting Cannon — Martin's Picture of Cut 
Woods — Leave England Before Midnight — "Caffa" in 
"Calla" Before Starting for "Parra" — He Knew the 
Stomach Better than the Tongue — Locomotives Black, 
Green, Yellow, Brown — The Engine Snorted Above a 
Tempest of French Words — Rushing Through Oatfields 
and Willows, by Flocks and Still Waters, in " Sunny 



CONTENTS. 

France" — The Sea Divorced England from France — 
Amiens — Trees Like Soldiers, — In Paris — Lonesome with- 
out Dinner and Friends — Three Bottles of Wine — Cook 
& Son — Met a Yankee in " Place Vendome " — Obelisk of 
Luxor — Place de la Concorde — Arc de Triomphe — 
Champs Elysees, etc. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

Paris: Places ok Beauty and Places of Blood 183 

Place de la Concorde — The Glittering Knife — A Lake 
of Blood — Pranzina Beheaded — Baptism of Blood — For- 
eign Armies — Lions, Bears, Eagles, Dragons — Gilded 
Domes Tremble — A Needle Weighing Two Hundred and 
Forty Tons — Asking Others to Die for Us — Champs Ely- 
sees, a Street Unequalled — A Ball-room One and a Half 
Miles Long, Flanked by Two Kingdoms, Nature and Art, 
Full of Light, Music, Beauty and Wine — The Arc de 
Triomphe, a Glory to Uphold Glory — Cost Millions — Pic- 
tures in Marble and Bronze — Twelve Proud, Gay Avenues 
Bow at its Feet — It Shows Us a Wide Panorama of Mag- 
nificence — At Dinner — Linen, Silver, Crystal, Broadcloth, 
Silk, Lace, Silver Hands, Gold Fingers, Mirrors, Wine, 
Flowers and Fountains — An Hour and a Half Going from 
Soup and Fish to Wine, Grapes and Peaches. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

Paris : Her Past, Present ; Palaces and Prison 193 

A City Peerless in Beauty — Buildings Bow to Winners 
of Glory — Eagle-mounted Banners and Numidian Lions — 
Csesar in a Wolf Den — Many Palaces, Few Homes — 
Golden Argosies Wrecked Under Rainbows — The 
Strange Woman — Woe to the City — Dying Alone — Sun- 
day in Paris — Wine Flows — Buildings Going Up, etc. — 
Boulevards, Columns, Arches, Fountains — An Island of 
Flowers Floating Through Jet to Honor the Dead and 
Please the Living — Place de la Bastile — Angry Men Let 
in the Sunlight and Behead the Keepers — On Top of a 
Fluted, Vibrating Column of Bronze — The Tall, Gilded 
Angel — Red Lines in the Pavement. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

Paris : Places Magnificent and Glorious 201 

Breakfast — Guided Through Palaces — Americans Met 
— The Madeleine — A Marble Splendor — The Decalogue 



IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

Swings in Bronze — True Art Calls for Tears — Three Hun- 
dred Communists Killed Near a Pulpit — Trocadero Palace 
and Garden — Looking Down on a Canopy which Covers 
Seven Thousand Seats in Red Velvet — Steel Fingers 
Tower a Thousand Feet where Lightning Rules — Cathe- 
drals Cut in Rock and Lighted by Rainbows, and Filled 
with Music of Seas, Birds, Thunder, etc. — Panorama of 
Rezonville — A Frozen Battle-field — America's Monument 
at Yosemite Smiling Among Clouds — Napoleon's Tomb, 
Guarded by Marble Heroes, Three Hundred and Forty 
Feet Below a Golden Hemisphere. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

Paris : Churches, Market, Cemetery 208 

Note-book in Hand — Palais Royal — Dine in the 
Famous place— Music — Red Wine — Church St. Eustache 
— Crowned with Beauty and Glory — Twelve Hundred 
Cellars Under Twenty-Two acres of Glass-Roofed Mar- 
kets — Pere La Chaise — Twenty-two Thousand Attractive 
Homes for the Dead — Mighty men Sleeping in Marble 
Beds — Abelard and Heloise, Unhappy Lovers, in Marble, 
Side by Side, Gazing into the Heavens — Marshal Ney's 
Grass- Blade Monument— A Beautiful Park — The Louvre 
Palace — Art Gallery one-fourth of a mile in Length — 
Great Paintings — Brilliant Rooms. 



CHAPTER XX. 

Paris: Notre Dame, Pantheon, St. Cloud 216 

Banks of the Seine — Gods Distilling Water — Bridges 
— How I asked Questions — Notre Dame — Impressive 
Building — A Marble Mountain with Pearls and Shells for 
Windows — Shrines — Relics — A Cathedral's use — Tower 
St. Tacques — The Pantheon — Artists on Scaffolds for 
Years — Monument to Heroes and Artists. — The Great 
Crown — Enroute to St. Cloud — Pare Monceau — Bois De 
Boulogne — Grand Avenue — Pine Vistas — Rothchild's 
Home — St. Cloud, Where the Great Napoleon Waved his 
Sword, and Vast Armies Shouted and Marched to Make 
Millions Mourn — Angels fly Heavenward — The Ruined 
Palace — The Zulu-slain Prince, etc. 



CHAPTER XXI. 

Varsaili.es: From Paris to London 227 

Forest Ville D' Avray — Boulevard De La Reine — 
— Versailles — A Palace a Fourth of a Mile Long — 



CONTENTS. 

Magnificence Brilliant with Glories— Cost One Hundred 

and Twenty-seven Million Francs — Kings and Queens 

Pillars of Silver amid Rainbows, Bearing up Canopies 
of Gold — Sevres' China Palace — Shake Hands — Angelic 
Guides— The Wonderful Road Thirty-five Hundred 
Miles Long, Running Through Empires of Wealth, Lands 
of Milk and Honey, and Kingdoms of Beauty and 
Wonder — The United States Great in Cities and Railways 
— No Tattered Beggars — Rushing Through France By 
Moonlight— Rouen Sleeping— Dieppe by the Sea— The 
Sea Dances in Green and White— Sea Sickness— White 
Cliffs of England Seen Through Mist — Rushing Through 
Woods, Rocks, Meadows, and Towns to London. 



From 



CHAPTER XXII, 

London to Cardiff, Wales 2 $6 

Proud England by Moonlight— Shrewsbury Station- 
Coffee, Dogs and Babies at Midnight— Welsh Names- 
Hills and Vales — Water Leaping Into Green Valleys— Old 
Mines— Cardiff— A Letter Finds a Friend Among Heaps 
of Gold— Cardiff Castle— Bute Docks— The Arcade- 
Names from All Europe— Grapes Under Glass— A Kind 
Family— Penarth and Hospitality— A Popular Man— The 
Esplanade— Queenly Cities Lulled to Sleep— Carriages 
Roll and Ships Rock — Guardian Spirits Are Anxious 
Where Men and Women Meet Destiny— Great Printing 
Press— A Busy City— Farewell. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

From Wales to Scotland, via England 243 

Traveling in London — Railways Flooded — Golden 
Apples— Leaving Wales— Old Castle Blood-cemented— 
" Can We Smoke ? "—Writing on Wheels Rapidly Roll- 
ing — Towns, Castles, Farms, Rivers, Mountains — Birm- 
ingham — Leamington, Warwickshire — Going to Middles- 
borough— Hills and Dales— Purple Snow— Kind Cousins 
in an Iron City Visited by Ships— Parks, Etc.— Statues 
for Brains and Enterprising Wealth— Enroute to Edin- 
burgh—Durham—The Cathedral — Powerful Newcastle 

Twenty-five Thousand Men Making Great Guns, Ships, 
Chains, Engines and Cars— jubilee Exhibition— A Big 
Gun— Thousands of Modest Girls Serving— Off for Edin- 
burgh. 



IO IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

Edinburgh, Scotland 255 

Health — Fine Weather — Kindness — Places Passed 
Through — Things Noted — Edinburgh — A Queenly City 
— Gospel Hymns in the Street — Arthur's Seat — Castle 
Hill — Calton Hill — A Slough Turned Into a Flowery 
Vale Full of Locomotives and Business — The Old Can- 
non-crowned Castle — Sir Walter Scott's Fine Monument 
— The Mound— Granite City — Spires, Monuments, Etc. — 
Holyrood Palace — Bird's-eye View — Bagpipes and Artil- 
lery — Plaided and Plumed Soldiers, Etc. 



CHAPTER XXV. 

Edinburgh, Scotland 263 

Ancient Banners Waved Over the Birth of Kings and 
Queens — Her Beauty and Glory — A Grand Ride — Tall 
Buildings on Ledges — High Street — Knox's House — The 
Old Castle — Five Hundred Feet Above the Sea — Soldiers 
in Red Coats and in Kilts, With Swords, Skean Uhus and 
Sporrans — A Great City Dressed in Gray Stone — Grass 
Market — St. Margaret's Chapel — Mon's Meg — Stone 
Cannon-balls — Crown Jewels — Queen Mary's Bedroom — 
A Cannon Roars at One O'Clock, Touched by Fingers 
Four Hundred Miles Long— What is Man? — Calton Hill 
— Nelson's Monument — Twelve Columns — Scotland's 
" Pride and Shame " — A Temple Deserted its Portico. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

Edinburgh and Dunfermline, Scotland 269 

Edinburgh — Like Home — Sober People — Magnificent 
Squares — Oases in Chiseled Rock — Five Stories Cut in 
Granite — Giant Breaking from Glass Fetters — On the Way 
to Dunfermline — Steel Spanning Sea Waves — Through 
a Mountain by Inverkeithing — Scotland's Old Capital — 
Ruins — Electricity Flashes Greetings — Metalic Horses — 
Linen Factories — Wheels Thunder and Shuttles Flash — 
Thirteen Thousand Women — Kind Friends — Goods Pic- 
tured for Columbia— A Walk — Steel Columns Above Blue 
Hills — Andrew Carnegie — Princely Giver — Scotch Hos- 
pitality — Old Palace Ruins Interesting — Fine Old Church 
— Deceptive Pillars — Pictures in Glass — -Tombs of Kings 
— Curfew Rings Here — The Looms Battle — Working in 
Factories — Parents of Friends — Hospitality Makes Angels. 



CONTENTS. 1 1 

CHAPTER XXVII. 

Scotland: A Wonderful Bridge, etc 281 

Sea-waves Crouch Before Rulers of Kingdoms and 
Commerce — From Edinburgh to Dunfermline — South 
Queen's Ferry — Port Edgar — North Queen's Ferry — Tow- 
ers of Granite and Steel Planted in Water — A Highway 
for the Passage of Fiery Chariots, Balanced on Circular 
Towers Forty Stories High — Machine Shops Suspended 
in Air — Thirty-one Men Killed — Four Thousand Men 
Riveting Forty-two Thousand Tons of Steel — Halcyon 
Days — The Sun Kisses the Water by a Ruined Castle — 
Pleasant Drive — The Lovers' Walk — Quiet, Quaint, Old 
Crossford — Kind Hearts — Walking Toward the Lights of 
Dunfermline 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

Scotland : Sterling and Glasgow 288 

From Dunfermline to Sterling — Mountains Like Lions, 
Shining Like Velvet — Sterling — Going Up by Famous 
Objects to Rocks Marble-Decked and Castle-Crowned — 
Cannon Roar Between the Clouds and the Winding Forth 
— Bridge of Allan — Abbey Craig — A Plain Decked with 
Rocks, Rivers, Sheep, etc. — A Cemetery Clad in Marble, 
Granite, Glass and Roses — Old Churches — Relics of 
Kings, Queens and Knox — Scotland's Standards — Ben- 
Lomond — Water Looped in double S's in Meadows Five 
Hundred Feet Below — Soldiers — Highlanders — Singing 
Witch — Bannockburn — Curious Monument — On to Glas- 
gow — Thirty-six Hundred Grouse — Winan's Deer Park — 
Six Hundred Thousand Busy People — A Chimney 
Breathes Four Hundred and Thirty-five Feet Above the 
Pavements — A Great Road Walled Eight Stories High — 
Great Buildings — Glasgow Names — St. Enoch's Roaring 
Station. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

Scotland : Greenock and Paisley 296 

Greenock — Ships and Sugar — The Clyde — A Morning 
Walk — Mountain Peaks — Fairy Lands — Looking Down 
on Greenock — Scene Unsurpassed — Ajax — The Largest 
Ship — The Lyle Road — Esplanade — Highland Mary's 
Grave — Watt's Scientific Library — Telegraphy in 1753 — 
The Ship Yards — Paisley — Shawls and Thread — School 
Children — Thannhill — Wilson — Kilbarchan — Moving 
Toward Dumfries. 



12 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

CHAPTER XXX. 

Scotland : Dumfries 303 

By Train From Glasgow to Dumfries — Things Seen — 
History — Location — Churches — Walk with Mr. Sharp — 
Famous Names — Robert Burns : His Dwelling, His Ale 
House, His Statue, His Church, His Arm Chair, His 
Mausoleum, His Poetry, His Admirers — Clydesdale 
Horses — Old Churches — Bridge Six Hundred Years old — 
Fine Railway Station — Viaduct Over Railways, etc. 



CHAPTER XXXI. 

From Scotland to Ireland 310 

Leaving Dumfries — Riding over Mountains Among 
Lakes and Meadows — Mountains Decked with Purple 
Heather, White Granite and Sheep — Old Stranraer — 
Home-like Hotel — Leaving Stranraer — Loch Ryan — 
Ships, Sea-birds and Green Hills — Locomotives Rush 
Down to the Ships — The Irish Sea "Like a Lake" — 
Ships Like Spirits on Eternity's Ocean — Mrs. Scott Sid- 
dons — At Larne,. Ireland. 



CHAPTER XXXII. 

In Ireland 316 

Interesting Country — Velvet Meadows — Clear Lakes 
— Picturesque Mountains — Leaving Larne— Enroute to 
Giant's Causeway — Port Rush — Dr. Adam Clarke's 
Monument — The Jaunting Car — The Electric Car — The 
Mowing Machine on a Cliff — Dunluce Castle — Strange 
Images and Shapes — Ocean Waves Moaning in Caves — 
Dined Near the Great Freak of Nature. 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 

Ireland: from Giant's Causeway to Dublin 322 

Giant's Causeway — A Beautiful and Wonderful Freak 
of Nature — Forty Thousand Columns of Stone, Cut by 
Nature, on the Shore of the .Sea — " Black North " — Wave- 
cut Rocks — In a Cave — Walking Over Pentagon and Hex- 
agon Columns — The Wishing Cliair — Finn McCue — Fin- 
gal's Cave — Famous Names — Going to Belfast — Fine 
City — Foggy Morning — Off for Dublin — Interesting 
Places Seen — The Round Towers — Arrive at Dublin. 



CONTENTS. 13 

CHAPTER XXXIV. 

Dublin: Places of Interest and Beauty 331 

Ireland's Chief City — Position, Commerce, Etc. — Pop- 
ulation — The Buildings — Sackville Street — Fine Monu- 
ments — Grand Edifices. — Glasnevin Cemetery — Marble 
Crosses and Memorials in Colonnades — The Circular 
Vaults — O'Connell's Lofty, Round Monument — Phoenix 
Park — Carpet of Rainbows Spread by Artistic Gods — 
Wellington's Sublime Monument — The Corsican Corporal 
Heart-broken — Red Coats — Along the Quay — Beautiful 
Women — White Hair and Fresh, Pink Cheeks — Crowned 
With the Glow of an Indian Summer Sunset — Pies, Cakes, 
Creams, Coffees and Candies, on Sackville Street — Served 
by Ladies Incog. — Good Bye — " Good Bye." 



CHAPTER XXXV. 

Dublin, and Voyage to Liverpool 339 

Dublin — Poetry and Romance — Stephen's Green — 
The Old Singer — Wealthy Families Remodel Great 
Churches — Driving Timid, Saucy and Wild Droves from 
Fields Into Ships — On a Blanket Among Trunks — Dark- 
ness Sits on the Sea — Rude, Furloughed Soldiers Sing 
and Dance — Rocked on the Sea Far from Green Hills — 
Holly-head — Great Railway Station at Midnight — Cars 
Full of Drowsy Passengers — -Arrive at Liverpool — Find- 
ing My Friend's Hotel — Miles of Gloomy Buildings — 
Men Sleeping on Stone Beds — I Sleep on a Bench — The 
Busy Morning. 



CHAPTER XXXVI. 

Men and Things Beyond the Sea 345 

Fragments Collected — Coins of Two Nations — Eng- 
lish People ; Reading, Dressing, Eating, Drinking, Man- 
ners — Cool — No Flies — Pleasures and Palaces — Only One 
America — Her Starry Banners Wave Benedictions in 
Distant Lands — Great Britain's Headquarters — King- 
dom's Admired— Acknowledging the Stars and Stripes — 
London's Crowds; Advertisers, Workers and the Poor- 
House — Wedded to a Great City — Thirty Thousand 
Houses a Year — Dream Life — A Fire in Wheatley's Four- 
teen-acre Store — Seven Hundred Drowned, but not 
Missed— -Strange Sayings — Enterprising Barber — Prices 
of Various Things — Two Swift Monsters — England's 
Champion Horse — Died That Night — Dover's Fat Man. 



14 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

CHAPTER XXXVIT. 
North Burton and Scarborough, England 356 

Green Country Village and a Splendid Watering Place 
— Wyoming Compared with Other Valleys — A Sunset of 
Glory Seen Through " Gates Ajar " — The Author's Father 
at North Burton — Meets Junius Brutus Booth — Marries — 
Traveling by Rail in Yorkshire — At Hunmanby — North 
Burton — The Pudseys — Father's Chair — The Gypsy — 
Unique Old Church — Smuggling — Good Land — Scarbor- 
ough the Splendid — In Steam-carriages on the Cliffs — 
Colored Sails Flap on the "Purple Deep" — Chiseled 
Beauty Between Hills by the Sea — Castle — Soldiers in 
Tents — Hotels — Ships — Fish and Fisherfolk — Elegant 
Buildings — Flowers and Lakes Under Iron Bridges — 
Men, Women, Children and Horses on the Sea Sands — 
The Aquarium — Poverty Mimics Pride — Going Home — A 
Delightful Evening. 



CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

Leamington, Warwick, Stratford, etc 368 

Grand Warwickshire — Leamington — Gardens — Drives 
— Medicinal Waters — Warwick Castle — An old Glory 
Surrounded by Beauties of Nature and Art — Peacocks and 
Cedars of Lebanon — The Dungeon, Dark and Dreadful 
— Stratford-Upon-Avon — Shakespeare's Birthplace — The 
Room Where the Great Poet was Born — No fire 
Allowed — Stealing a Place to Write a Name — Relic 
Hunters — Shakespeare's Curse — A Delightful Ride on 
the Avon — Coventry — Old Churches With Tall Spires 
— St. Mary's Hall — Lady Godiva Rides Naked Through 
the City — "Peeping Tom" is now Blind Tom — Leaving 
Fair Leamington. 



CHAPTER XXXIX. 

From England to Wyoming Valley 376 

In England's Busy Sea-port — Going to the Ship — Miss 
Oliver — Thousands of People Sailing Out Into the Fog to 
Lands Beyond the Sea — Liverpool Fades Into Smoke and 
Fog — Sunset Smiles on the Sea — Moonlit Highway — 
Rockets Bursting Above the Waves — Weeping and Danc- 
ing — A Sunday Fair on a Great Ship — " Lovely Apples " 



CONTENTS. 15 

— Canes — Caps — Pipes — Bog Oak, etc. — Ireland Sinks 
Into the Sea — Sea Rough — The Snorer — The Winds Lift 
Up Dark Waves — Many 111 — Sea Grand — Alleghenies of 
Water — Chinaware Crashes and Lights go Out — Tossed 
in Bed — The Deck Like a Barn-roof — Not Afraid, but 
Satisfied — Comrades Recovering — Mr. G 111. 



CHAPTER XL. 

From England to Wyoming Valley — Continued 386 

Miss Oliver Wounded — Mr. G Preparing to be 

Buried in the Sea — Took Hot Rum and Quinine — "Get 
Out" — Miss Oliver Worse — The Surgeon Assists — Steam- 
ers Racing Through White-Crested Billows — Officers 
Kind — The Magical Sea — Ships Like Butterflies on 
Crystal Vases — Singers Cheer Miss Oliver in Darkness — 
Sandy Hook — Anchor Chains Rattle — A Great City's 
Crystal Gate — Ships, Forts, Hills, Mansions, Monuments, 
Churches, Bridges — On the Wings of the Morning — The 
Sea's Births Like a Resurrection — Letters from Distant 
Kingdoms — Custom House — Rough and Dusty — Officials 
Seem Unfeeling — Take Away My Watch — Tell who I am 
— Watch Returned — Miss Oliver's Brother — Shake Hands 
Amid Tears, Good-byes and Partings. 



CHAPTER XLI. 

From England to Wyoming Valley — Concluded 398 

In New York City — Five Hundred Thousand People 
in Cars on Stilts — Crossing North River — The Giants 
race Through Autumn-Crowned New Jersey — Bright 
Mountains and Flaming Furnaces in Pennsylvania — Oh, 
the Sunset !— Gazing with the full Moon, down upon 
Wyoming Valley — Meet Friends on Warm Hearthstones 
— The Wounded Girl tells her own Story; Crosses wide 
States While Suffering, and finds Lover and Brother — 
Gets Married — Better but not Well — My Trip and its 
History Terminates — A Panorama of Great Glory, full of 
music, love and undying Beauty — Kind Reader, Adieu. 



TESTIMONIALS. 



From Rev. L. L. Sprague, D. D., Principal Wyoming Seminary : — 
C. D. Linskill, Esq. : 

Dear Sir — I have read your letters from Europe with much interest 
and should like to see them published. If you decide to do so, please 
send me a volume for library Wyoming Seminary. 

Kingston, Pa., Aug. iSth, 1888. L. L. SPRAGUE. 



From Hon. L. D. Shoemaker : — 

I have read some of your letters from Europe as they were published, 
and would be glad to have a copy of them all in book form. 

Wilkes-Barre, Aug. 27th, '88. L. D. SHOEMAKER. 



From Hon. Chas. A. Miner : — 
C. D. Linskill, Esq. : 

Dear Sir — I read your letters from Europe, as they appeared in the 
Telephone, with much interest. They renewed to me my own visit of 
several years ago as I read descriptions of the scenes I had passed 
through. I would be more than pleased to see them in book form. 

Wilkes-Barre, Sept. 3d, 1888. CHAS. A. MINER. 



From Hon. H. B. Payne : — 

Friend Linskill: 

Acquainted as we have been since boyhood, I read with pleasure 
most of your letters from Europe appearing in the Telephone. Those 
letters together in a book would be almost yourself in book form. 
Hence I would be much pleased to have a copy. Yours truly, 

Wilkes-Barre, Sept. 6th, 1888. H. B. PAYNE. 



From Governor James A. Beaver : — - 
C. D. Linskill, Esq., Wilkes-Barre, Pa. : 

My Dear Sir — Your letter of the nth instant has been received. 
I have read some of your letters, as published in the Wilkes-Barre 
Telephone, and found in them much that was new and interesting. 
Their publication would, I doubt not, secure a wider range of readers 
and an appreciative constituency. Very cordially yours', 

JAMES A. BEAVER. 

Executive Chamber, Harrisburg, Sept. 20th, 1888. 



TESTIMONIALS. 1 7 

From Congressman Osborne :— 
Mr. Charles D. Linskill: 

My Dear Sir — I read many of the letters written by you, while you 
were in Europe, with much satisfaction, and think you should publish 
them in book form. They would make an interesting volume and I 
would be glad to have it in my library. Very respectfully, 
Your obedient servant, 

Washington, D. C, Sept. 8, 1888. E. S. OSBORNE. 



From Calvin Par sorts, Esq.: — 

I have read, with the greatest pleasure, " L's" letters of his travels 
in Europe. I would be happy to receive a copy, in book form, for my 
library. My best regards, 

Parsons, Sept. 7th, 1888. CALVIN PARSONS. 

To Mr. Linskill. 



From A. T. McClintock, Esq.: — 

If the letters referred to are published in book form I will be pleased 
to have a copy. A. T. McCLINTOCK. 

Sept. 7th, 1888. 



From W. W. Loomis, Esq., Ex- Mayor, Wilkes- Bar re : — 
Mr. C. D. Linskill: 

Dear Sir — I have read your letters from beyond the sea with inter- 
est and pleasure, and if you publish them in book form, I believe hun- 
dreds of people will read it, and be entertained and profited thereby. 

Wilkes-Barre, Pa., Sept. 7, 18S8. W. W. LOOMIS. 



From Judge Stanley Woodward : — 

I was very much interested in your letters from Europe, as published 
in the Telephone, and think them well worthy of 'preservation in a more 
permanent form. STANLEY WOODWARD. 

To Mr. Linskill. 



From Hon. Chas. D. Foster : — 

I heartily concur in what has been said by those who have already 
written in this book. Have been much interested in the letters of my 
old school friend and neighbor, in the land of buckwheat, and shall only 
be too glad to purchase and read his travels in Europe, in book form. 

To Chas. Linskill, Esq. CHAS. D. FOSTER. 



From Rev. R. W. VanSchoick, Presiding Elder Wyoming District : — 
Mr. Linskill has made the public a great debtor by the publication 

of his letters from " Over the Sea" ; and will immensely increase their 

obligations to him by putting his incomparable narrations in book form. 

Such a work will find a place in every library. 

Kingston, Pa., Sept. nth, 1888. R. W. VANSCHOICK. 

(2) 



15 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

From Col. G. M. Reynolds : — 

Mr. Linskill will confer a favor by including me among the sub- 
scribers to his forthcoming book. G. M. REYNOLDS. 



From Geo. B. Kulp, Esq., Local Historian and Editor Legal Register : — 
Your letters from beyond the seas were read by me with great pleas- 
ure and profit. I have several copies of travels in my library, but none 
of them are as entertaining as your letters. Yours, etc., 

Wilkes-Barre, Pa., Sept. II, '88. G. B. KULP. 

To C. D. Linskill, Esq. 

From L. II. Taylor. M. D.:— 
My Dear Mr. Linskill: 

I have read some of your foreign letters with interest, and will be 
glad to see them published in book form. 

Sincerely yours, LEWIS H. TAYLOR. 



From Hon. Garrick M. Harding, ex-Judge Luzerne County: — 
My Dear Charles : 

Your European letters, originally published in the Telephone, are'too 
interesting and instructive to run the risk of that oblivion which too often 
is the fate of a country newspaper. Resurrect them by all means and 
give them book form, so that our children and children's children may 
participate in the pleasure which their ancestors have enjoyed. 

Very truly yours, GARRICK M. HARDING. 

Wilkes-Barre, Pa., Oct. 8th, '88. 



From William Ptickey, Bookseller : — 
Chas. D. Linskill, Esq. : 

Dear Sir — I have read your letters from England, Ireland, Scotland, 
Wales and France with much pleasure and profit. I was never so much 
interested in letters of travels. Your letters are eloquent pen pictures 
of great and beautiful things, and are as attractive and reliable as the 
most carefully written history. I think your book will have a large sale. 
''I shall at least take two copies. Truly yours, 

Wilkes-Barre, Pa., Sept. 25th, 1888. WM. PUCKEY. 



From Rev. A. Griffin, Pastor Central ' M. E. Church, Wilkes- Barri : — 
My Dear Friend Charles : 

It affords me very great pleasure, indeed, to add my unqualified en- 
dorsement to your project of yielding to the advice of your many friends 
and putting your European letters in more permanent form than a local 
newspaper can give them. The careful perusal of your familiar letters 
is next to a personal visit to the Old World. Publish them in book 
form by all means, and count me a subscriber to a copy of the first edi- 
tion. Very truly yours, 

Oct. 8, '88. A. GRIFFIN. 



TESTIMONIALS. I9 

From A. H. Tuttle, D. D., Pastor First M. E. Church, Wilkes-Barre : 
Chas. D. Linskill: 

My Dear Sir — Your letters came to us like a sweet breath from be- 
yond the sea. They breathe the spirit of restfulness upon us in this 
busy, work-a-day life of ours. I am glad you are to put them in a con- 
venient form for frequent use. They are as instructive as they are 
restful. Respeclfully \ 

Oct. 8th, 1888. A. H. TUTTLE. 



From Hon. J. Ridgivay Wright ; — 
Chas. D. Linskill: 

Jlfy Dear Sir — I understand that you intend publishing your letters 
from abroad, that have appeared heretofore in the Telephone, in book 
form. That is good. I enjoy your style — your way of looking at things. 
I have enjoved the letters and must have one of the volumes so pub- 
lished. Very truly yours, J. RIDGWAY WRIGHT. 

Wilkes-Barre, Pa., Nov. 5th, 1888. 



From Rev. F. B. Hodge, Pastor First Presbyterian Church, Wilkes- 
Barre, Pa : — 
I will cheerfully become a subscriber for your letters from Europe 

when published in book form, as requested by your many friends. 

F. B. HODGE. 



From Hon. Chas. E. Rice, President Judge of Luzerne County ; — 
My Dear Mr. Linskill: 

I have read most of your letters from Europe, as they have appeared 
in the Telephone, and with the greatest pleasure. The simplicity of style 
and the closeness of observation manifested, give them a charm as well 
as a value, entitling them to preservation in book form. 
/ remain, yours trtdy, 

Wilkes-Barre, Pa., Oct. 9th, 1888. CHARLES E. RICE. 



From Air. J. W. Hollenback : — 
Mr. Chas. D. Linskill: 

I have read some of your letters from Europe with much interest, 
and notice a style unique, and not usual to even our best writers. I will 
also be one of your first subscribers on the appearance of your travels 
in a book. J. W. HOLLENBACK. 

Wilkes-Barre, Pa., Oct. 10th, 1888. 



From Major C. M. Conyngham, Wilkes-Barre, Pa. : — 
Mr. Linskill: 

I enjoyed the reading of your letters from Europe very much indeed, 
and shall be glad to read them again in book form. 

Yours truly, C. M. CONYNGHAM. 

Wilkes-Barre, Pa., Oct. 15, 1888. 



20 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

From F. V. Rocka fellow, Banker : — 
Friend Linskill: 

I have read most of your foreign letters, and was greatly pleased 
with their style and language, and learned from them many useful facts. 
Your descriptions of great cities, and grand, old buildings, and of the 
sea, rivers, plains and mountains, were real, lifelike and satisfying. 
While your descriptive powers are remarkable, many of your sentences 
are as smoothly and eloquently worded as any thing I have seen in our 
language. I shall be pleased to see your letters in book form, and shall 
want one for my library. I am quite sure your book will have a large 
and extensive sale, for it possesses that which will interest and instruct 
English reading people everywhere, and for many years to come. 

Yours truly, F. V. ROCKAFELLOW. 

Wilkes-Barre, Pa., Oct. 8, 1888. 



From Hon. D. L. Rhone, Orphans' Court Judge : — 
Friend Linskill: 

Your letters from Europe are worthy of being put in book form. 
There is so much in them of the aims, and cares, and works of the com- 
mon people, not observed by other authors, and so much of general his- 
tory related in a style so original and agreeable, as to give them an 
unusual interest. Yours, etc., 

Wilkes-Barre, Ba., Oct. nth, 1S88. D. L. RHONE. 



From Ex- Judge John Handley :■ — 

Publish your letters from Europe by all means. I have read them 
with great pleasure and much instruction. JOHN HANDLEY. 

Scranton, Pa., Sept., 1S88. 



From Col. J. D. Laciar, with Scranton Republican : — 
Mr. Chas. D. Linskill, Editor Wilkes-Barre Telephone: 

Dear Sir — I wish to express to you the gratification I experienced 
when the notice appeared that you contemplated the publication, in book 
form, of the series of admirable letters written by you while on your 
late European tour. I read many of the letters as they appeared from 
time to time in the columns of your paper, and regard them as highly 
instructive, especially as to their descriptive features of places of interest 
visited by you, and the evidences they bear of your close observations as 
a traveler. The letters are well worth preserving in permanent book 
form. May you have the great success you deserve. 

/ ery sincerely, 

Scranton, Ba., Oct. 20, 1888. J. D. LACIAR. 



From Roger McGarry, Superintendent Wilkes-Barre Water Co. : — 
I have read Mr. C. D. Linskill's letters with much pleasure and 

profit, and cheerfully subscribe my name among his many admirers. 
Wilkes-Barre, Ba., Sept. nth, 1SS8. ROGER McGARRY. 



TESTIMONIALS. 21 

From Mr. Charles T. Seymour, Importer of Havana Tobacco, 180 

Front Street, A T ew York : — 
Mr. Linskill: 

My Dear Sir — Incidentally, the other day, I took the Telephone 
from the postman's hands. * * I was soon enwrapped in your crisp, 
practical narrative of one day's sight-seeing in Paris. * * The scenes 
were vividly brought to my mind, and foi truth and clearness I com- 
mend it beyond anything I have seen. * * In those articles I am 
sure, from the sample I have read, I shall be much edified, instructed, 
and a very pleasant trip recalled with a minuteness and grace that I, 
as an old reporter on the New York Herald, perhaps can appreciate as 
much as the majority. * * Yours very truly, 

Jan. 17th, 1888. CHARLES T. SEYMOUR. 



From J. Arthur Bullard, M. D. : — 
My Dear Mr. Linskill: 

You ask me for an expression concerning your letters, and I reply 
without hesitancy that I have always found them interesting. You 
seem to have the gifts of observation and description, and your easy pen 
pictures of American as well as of English homely domestic life, its 
familiar scenes and incidents, strike the popular chord. * * * * 

Having read the Telephone since its first number I was prepared 
somewhat for the letters of its wandering editor on the other side 
of the " big water," and therefore read them with comfort, interest 
and advantage. The man who can enter so naturally into the little 
things of life is certainly the one best calculated to hold a warm place 
in the hearts of the masses. I wish you all success with your book. 

Yours truly, 

J. ARTHUR BULLARD. 

Wilkes-Barre, Pa., Oct. 11, '88. 



From F. C. Johnson, M. D., of the Wilkes-Barre Record : — 
My Dear Mr. Linskill: 

As I did not have an opportunity of reading all your letters, I will 
be glad to see them in book form. To me they were far more interest- 
ing than the pretentious foreign observations with which our literature 
is flooded. I like to look at Europe through your glasses, and you may 
put me down for a copy — not for review, but " C. O. D." 

F. C. JOHNSON. 



From W. G. Weaver, M. D. :— 
Mr. Chas. D. Linskill: 

Dear Sir — I read your European letters, under the title of " Here 
and There," with much pleasui-e, and I am glad to hear of your inten- 
tion to put them into book form. They deserve to be widely circulated. 



22 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

In these days, when literary piracy is so common, it is gratifying to 
meet with a really unique and original style, such as all your writings 
display. I wish you success in your publishing venture, and shall gladly 
subscribe for a copy of your book. 

Sincerely yours, 

W. G. WEAVER. 
Wilkes-Barre, Pa., Dec. nth, 1888. 



From Hon. E. C. IVadkams ; — 

Having read with interest your letters published in the Telephone, 
think, if published in book form, would secure a large patronage. 

To C. D. Linskill. 

E. C. WADHAMS. 

Wilkes-Barre, Pa., Oct. 8th, 1888. 



From Isaac P. Hand, Esq. : — 
Mr. C. D. Linskill : 

Dear Sir — I read most of your letters, written while you were in 
Europe and published in the Wilkes-Barre Telephone. I assure you it 
is with great satisfaction that I learn the same are to be issued in book 
form. Your descriptions of things seen and places visited are very in- 
structive and interesting, and far from commonplace. 

Yours truly, 

ISAAC P. HAND. 

Wilkes-Barre, Pa., Dec. 19, 1888. 



From Dillon Yarington, Esq., Carbondale, Pa. : — 
Mr. C. D. Linskill: 

Dear Sir — Now with regard to your book containing the interesting 
letters you wrote from Europe ; consider me a subscriber. In my younger 
days I have read much of the history of Europe, but I must say that I 
never had a proper conception of English home matters and the English 
people at home until I read your interesting letters. My ancestors on 
my father's side were from England one hundred and sixty years ago ; 
on my mother's side, from Ireland one hundred and eighty years ago. 
By all means make me a subscriber. 

Respecl fully yours, 

DILTON YARINGTON. 



From Edw. Edzvards, Paymaster Taff Vale Railway, Cardiff, Wales : — 
C. D. Linskill, Esq. : 

My Dear Sir — Myself and family are very pleased to learn that you 
were well. * * * It quite cheers us to find that you retain such a 
kindly recollection of your visit to Cardiff. It was so short that I feared 
you would scarcely be able to recall the circumstance, amidst the almost 
numberless incidents of your trip to the " Old Country." We feel 



TESTIMONIALS. 23 

amply repaid for any trouble we may have taken to make your visit 
agreeable. * * * We, every member of the family, have been very 
much interested in your papers, and look forward to the future numbers 
with considerable pleasure. Should you again visit our country I trust 
you will find it convenient to give Cardiff a more lengthy visit. 

Faithfully yours, EDWARD EDWARDS. 



From David Harris, Foreman on Forth Bridge, Scotland : — 
Mr. Linskill: 

I have received the papers you sent on to me, and I am glad to see 
the description that you have given of your travels in Scotland. You 
have not been idle the time you were here. You have given a splendid 
account of the bridge here. I am sure your readers will be very much 
taken up with your travels. Yours truly, DAVID HARRIS. 

North Queen's Ferry, Scotland, March 25, 1888. 



From Alexander Farnham, Esq. : — 
Friend Linskill: 

I have read your " Here and There " letters from Europe with great 
interest and profit. Your descriptive talents are peculiar and pleasing ; 
simple, yet comprehensive ; attractive, instructive and useful. I shall 
be glad to have a copy of your " Travels in Lands Beyond the Sea." 
Truly yours, ALEXANDER FARNHAM. 

Wilkes-.Barre, Pa., Oct. 19, '88. 



From A. R. Brundage, Esq. : — 
Mr. Linskill: 

I read your letters of foreign travels with great interest. Having 
passed over very much the same ground myself, I can certify to the 
faithfulness with which you have described places and scenes of the 
Old World. Very truly, A. R. BRUNDAGE. 



From Col. C. Dorrance, President Wyoming National Bank : — 
C. Dorrance Linskill, Esq., Wilkes-Barre, Pa. : 

Dear Sir — I have read your letters from England and France, as 
published in the Telephone, with much interest, and judge if you pub- 
lish them in book form, as you propose, the work will have a wide and 
generous patronage. Respectfully and truly yours, 

Dorranceton, Pa., Nov. 8th, 1888. C. DORRANCE. 



From S. H. Lynch, Esq. : — 
Chas. Linskill, Esq. : 

Dear Sir — In looking over the Telephone weekly, I have been par- 
ticularly pleased with your very interesting letters on your voyage to 
Europe, with your rambles up and down the land of your forefathers 



24 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

and elsewhere. Your descriptions of places and people met with by 
the way, with the incidents occurring daily, have made very attractive 
reading to me, and I have no doubt that the gathering together of your 
notes of travel will make an instructive and entertaining volume. 

Yours truly, 
Wilkes-Barre, Pa., Oct. 15th, 1888. S. H. LYNCH. 



From C. P. Kidder, Esq. : — 
Mr. Chas. D. Linskill: 

Dear Sir — I was greatly interested in your letters from Europe and 
derived much pleasure and profit in their perusal. Your descriptions of 
Old World cities and scenes are the next thing to being there in person, 
and your letters have renewed in me a desire to visit those countries — a 
desire I hope to gratify at some no distant period. Truly yours, 

Wilkes-Barre, Pa., Oct. 27, '88. C. P. KIDDER. 



From E. H. Chase, Esq. : — 
Friend Charles: 

I read a number of your letters from abroad, and was disappointed 
if, in opening the Telephone, I missed the interesting headlines, " Here 
and There." The letters were racy, and descriptions of the kind diffi- 
cult to describe, but entertaining to read. I sincerely trust that if you 
do collect them in book form you will not overlook in its distribution, 
Yours very truly, 

Wilkes-Barre, Pa. EDWARD H. CHASE. 



From F. J. Deemer, Asst. Supt. Susquehanna Coal Co.: — 
Mr. Chas. D. Linskill: 

My Dear Sir — I have read your letters from Europe with consider- 
able interest and profit. Your descriptions of the sea, of ships, of cities, 
famous buildings, and landscapes, are very pleasing and instructive. I 
am glad to learn that you are to enlarge and improve these letters, and 
publish them in book form. I shall be pleased to have a copy for my 
library. F. J. DEEMER. 

Wilkes-Barre, Pa., Nov. 6, 1888. 



From Robert Baur, Publisher, Wilkes-Barre, Pa.: 
Friend Linskill: 

I have read all of your letters from the " Old World," and can 
heartily endorse what your many friends have said regarding them. 1 
have been interested and pleased by your original style of expression, 
and your characteristic description of things, people, and places, "in 
lands beyond the sea." I am sure your book will find its way into many 
libraries, as it richly deserves to do. Truly yours, 

Wilkes-Barre, Pa., Nov. 8th, 1888. ROBERT BAUR. 



CHAPTER I. 

INTRODUCTORY. 

WHY AND HOW THIS VOLUME WAS PUBLISHED — 

THE AUTHOR'S FATHER CAME FROM ENGLAND 

SETTLED IN PENNSYLVANIA ASKED HIS SON TO 

MAKE PILGRIMAGE — HIS SUDDEN DEATH CORRES- 
PONDENCE LASTING SIXTY YEARS WHITE, ROAR- 
ING BILLOWS CAN NOT DROWN LOVE LETTERS 

BEREAVEMENT, SORROW, LABORS AND CARES CALL 
FOR REST AND CHANGE A FRIEND INDEED GET- 
TING READY TO GO PASSPORT, AND LETTERS FROM 

PROMINENT MEN GOVERNOR BEAVER'S LETTER 

CONGRESSMAN OSBORNE'S LETTER — OTHER LETTERS 

TAKING LEAVE AMERICA'S SHORES SINK IN SILVER 

AT LIVERPOOL THROUGH ENGLAND, IRELAND, SCOT- 
LAND, WALES, FRANCE; PARIS AND LONDON RELA- 
TIVES HELPFUL WEATHER MOST AUSPICIOUS 

THINGS PICTURED ON THE SPOT — GOOD WISHES 

GRASP EACH READER BY THE HAND. 

To tell the reader why and how this volume was 
written is a pleasing task. 

In May, 1830, my father sailed from Hull, an old 
seaport town on the eastern coast of England, and in 
thirty days landed at New York. He settled in 
Lehman, Luzerne county, a few miles west of Wyo- 

(2*) 



26 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

ming valley, where, after residing for more than 
thirty-five years, he fell down and expired suddenly, 
on the morning of the 18th of August, 1865. He 
was by nature endowed with more than average 
physical, mental and moral powers. His memory was 
very tenacious and his judgment most excellent. 
Naturally, he often spoke to his children and friends 
of "Old England" and told us of the beauty, and glory, 
and romance, and history, and wealth of his native 
land. He once said to the writer, "I did intend to 
return to England, to again look upon dear friends 
and familiar scenes, but I am now too far advanced in 
years to go and will relinquish the thought ; however, 
* I wish you some day to go and see where I was born 
and attended school." These words were spoken with 
a sigh, while his tears were nearly ready to fall. 

After his death I wrote to his brother, and ever 
since then, at unequal periods, I have corresponded 
with my uncle, or with cousins, in a land beyond the 
sea. I have often wondered that the mighty, rolling, 
white-capped billows of the Atlantic have not drowned 
in their awful and thundering depths, the feeble mes- 
sages sent forth by loving hearts — hearts knit by the 
tender ties of consanguinity. But still, after nearly 
sixty years of family separation the waves of Old 
Ocean occasionally toss upon the white strands of 
America a letter for your humble servant. 

For more than a score of years I had longed in- 
tensely for the time and means to visit my father's 
mother-land. At length, in the early summer of 1 887, 
after a season of great bereavement and much care 



INTRODUCTORY. 



27 

and labor, by the counsel and aid of a very dear 
friend, I began to prepare to sail for Europe. Of 
course, the project and its possibilities pleased me 
much. I told friends that I was going away and many 
subscribed for our paper. I also secured a passport 
and a number of letters from men high in social and 
political circles, believing that I would find them use- 
ful in various ways and places, as I certainly did find 
them to be. The letter sent to me by Governor James 
A. Beaver, of Pennsylvania, was certainly one of the 
best I received ; in fact, it would not be easy for any 
person to receive from anyone a better or more neatly 
worded testimonial. I therefore will take the liberty 
to publish his letter here, which is as follows : 

Commonwealth of Pennsylvania, Executive Chamber. 

Harrisburg, July 7th, 1887. 
To all whom it may concern: 

Charles D. Linskill, Esq., of the City of Wilkes-Barre, in the Com- 
monwealth of Pennsylvania, editor of the Wilkes-Barre Telephone, is 
about to travel beyond the seas. He is a reputable citizen of Pennsyl- 
vania, engaged in a most honorable calling, has respectable standing 
in his community, has served his country in a military capacity, and is 
in every way worthy the respect and confidence of all with whom he 
may come in contact. He expects to pursue some literary work inci- 
dent to his profession during his absence, and is therefore cordially 
commended to all who can assist him in his laudable enterprise. 
Very respectfully, 

JAMES A. BEAVER, 

Governor. 

I also insert the pleasant letter sent me by Gen. 
E. S. Osborne, our Representative in the halls of the 



28 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

National Congress at Washington. The following is 
his letter : 

House of Representatives, U. S., 

Washington, D. C, 29 June, 1887. 
My dear Mr. Linskill: 

I understand you are about to make a trip through Europe, intend- 
ing to be absent until late in the fall. I sincerely hope you may have 
a pleasant journey and a safe return to your home and friends, and 
that your health may be benefitted and your fund of information en- 
larged thereby. I shall look for your letters in the Telephone, and 
shall enjoy their reading very mnch. If you come across Mr. Blaine 
be sure and make yourself known to him, and tell him you and I are 
old friends. 

Sincerely hoping that a kind Providence may protect you from all 
harm, I am with esteem, 

Your obedient servant, 

E. S. Osborne, M. C. 
To Charles D. Linskill, Esq., Editor Telephone, Wilkes-Barre, Pa. 

Hon. L. D. Shoemaker, Hon. E. C. Wadhams, 
Richard Sharp, Esq., George A. Edwards, Esq., and 
Master Mechanic Charles Graham, Sr., and others 
gave me excellent letters, introducing me to people in 
public and private life. 

On the 14th of July, 1887, I parted with friends at 
Kingston and was driven through the fresh, morning 
air across Wyoming valley, where golden grain and 
fragrant hay stood in shocks to be conveyed to the 
barns. 

At Wilkes-Barre I said " good bye" to my kind and 
patient partner, Mr. Sanders, and to the compositors and 
other friends, and took the train for New York. On 
Saturday afternoon, July 16th, on board the magnifi- 
cent steamer " Servia," we steamed out into the wide, 



INTRODUCTORY. 29 

wide sea, and before sundown the shores of America 
seemed to melt to silver and disappear into Dream-land. 
That afternoon as the shores of my dear, native 
land sank out of sight beyond gleaming waves of Old 
Ocean, the following short letter appeared in the 
Telephone : 

GONE. 

Dear friends : By the time that most of you shall see these lines, I 
will be on board of a great steamship plowing the blue and trackless 
Atlantic, bound to walk and talk in England, Ireland, Scotland, Wales 
and France. 

I expect to see many great, grand, old, beautiful and curious things 
which I hope to write of in a way that shall prove entertaining and 
useful. 

Since I began to arrange for my transatlantic trip I have been be- 
friended by many in various ways, and a number of eminent men have 
given me most excellent letters of introduction to persons beyond the 
sea. 

I hope and expect to return, but, if He who holds the ocean in the 
hollow of His hand and binds its proud waves with tiny grains of 
sand, wills that I should meet you here no more I wish you to know 
that I go from the shores ol time with the fortitude and peaceful confi- 
dence of a humble Christian. Good bye. L. 

In eight and a half days we cast anchor at Liver- 
pool, England's mighty and far-famed seaport. I 
crossed and re-crossed England ; visited famous and 
beautiful portions of Scotland ; went into Ireland, 
" the gem of the ocean," and saw her most wonderful 
works of nature, and visited Dublin, her beauty, glory 
and pride ; ran down through Wales and inspected 
Cardiff, her chief city. I crossed the English chan- 
nel, where two seas meet and contend, and went down 
through the heart of " Sunny France" and walked 
along the banks of the Seine in her gay, grand, glit- 



30 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

tering capital, and gazed upon her mighty and beauti- 
ful buildings : places of worship, places of pleasure t 
places of glory and places of blood. Again, I walked 
the streets of vast, ancient, wealthy, powerful and 
ever-roaring London, and met hundreds of thousands 
of fellow-mortals wending their way through almost 
boundless forests of buildings — buildings gloomy and 
gay, massive and elegant. 

While absent I managed to write letters for the 
Wilkes- Barre Telephone. These letters, on my return, 
I found had been read by thousands of people with 
deep interest. Having cousins in London and other 
great cities in England, facilitated my seeing and 
learning useful and interesting facts. In the letters I 
have essayed to let the reader see what I saw and let 
him know the thoughts I experienced when standing 
in the presence of the objects described. I was also 
favored with the finest summer weather that western 
Europe had experienced in nineteen years, and rain 
and storms did not hinder my travels or prevent my 
sight-seeing. For me to speak of the character of 
these letters might seem as lacking in good taste, as it 
would be unnecessary, in view of the many remarka- 
ble and comprehensive testimonials which are publish- 
ed on other pages of this volume. These testimonials 
and hundreds of others, written and verbal, decided 
me to publish my letters in this volume. These let- 
ters have been carefully revised. A few typograph- 
ical errors and unimportant matters have been 
expunged, while many things of considerable interest 
are added. I am confident that the new chapters on 



INTRODUCTORY. 3 1 

the " London Fog" and on "The Great Fire" of 1666 
will prove very interesting and useful. 

Dear readers, and fellow-travelers on the shores of 
Time, I close this prefatory chapter hoping that you 
may be interested and instructed in perusing the fol- 
lowing chapters, and that I may some day grasp each 
one of you by the hand. 

Very respectfully yours, 

CHARLES D. LINSKILL. 



CHAPTER II. 

FROM THE MOUNTAINS TO THE SEA. 

SAYING "GOOD BYE" TO RELATIVES, PARTNER AND 

FRIENDS LOOKING DOWN ON LUZERNE AND OTHER 

COUNTIES IN NEW JERSEY — RUSHING THROUGH CIT- 
IES WHILE LONG, WHITE, GUARDIAN ARMS RISE AND 

FALL — IN NEW YORK CENTRAL PARK MONUMENTS 

AND MONSTERS FROM BEYOND THE SEA CARRIAGES 

FOR PALE BABIES, AND PROUD MILLIONAIRES TOOK 

BAGGAGE TO STEAMSHIP — AT CONEY ISLAND — ITS 

HOTELS ITS FLOWERS ITS SWIMMERS — ITS WINE, 

ITS WOMEN ITS TOWER ITS FRIENDS — A SEA SHELL 

CONTAINING SIXTY-FIVE MASTER MUSICIANS THE 

GARDENS BLOSSOM WITH FIRE: — A PLACE TO LEARN — 

A PLACE TO FALL SHAM BATTLE BAY FULL OF 

SHIPS AT NIGHT THE HEAVENS FRESCOED WITH COL- 
ORED LIGHTS — STATUE OF LIBERTY — BROOKLYN 

BRIDGE, AN ARTIFICIAL MIDNIGHT RAINBOW READY 

TO WAVE A FAREWELL TO MY NATIVE LAND. 

On the morning of July 14th, 1887, I bid "good 
bye" to my sister, Mrs. Shaver, and her husband and 
two sons, and a number of neighbors at Kingston, 
Pa., and was conveyed with my baggage to the Le- 
high Valley Railway Station in Wilkes-Barre. It 
took me about one hour to pass through Wilkes- 



FROM THE MOUNTAINS TO THE SEA. 33 

Bane, for there were my partner, John and Charlie at 
the office, bless them, if they do sometimes put in the 
wrong letter and leave out the right word, and a host 
of other acquaintances and friends to shake my hand 
and say "bon voyage." Well, at 8:40 the train start- 
ed and I was on my way to Europe via England — one 
of the many dreams of my life. The morning was clear, 
warm and pleasant. The farmers were engaged here 
and there through the valley in harvesting grain and 
making hay and the valley generally, perhaps never 
looked more pleasant to me. Our train, with the en- 
ergy of steam and steel, urged on by muscle and 
educated brains, climbed the mountain, and we could 
see not only Wyoming's fair vale, but we could see 
away beyond the Kingston mountain to North moun- 
tain, where Lake and Ross and Fairmount fields could 
be seen yellow with ripening grain. Yonder were the 
mountains around Shickshinny, and yonder were the 
high hills back of Centremoreland, and away there 
were the mountains west of Scranton. Now the train 
rolls through Solomon's Gap, and bidding farewell to 
Wyoming we look over Wright, Slocum, Dorrance, 
Dennison, Hollenback, Conyngham and Nescopeck 
to Salem and Berwick. We pass on by Glen Sum- 
mit's spacious and pleasant hotel where a number of 
Wilkes-Barre people are seen with others sitting on 
the porches or moving about the grounds. We pass 
White Haven and on down the Lehigh valley, until 
at Slatington we begin to get away from the moun- 
tains and into a region of fine farms. On the train we 
met Sheriff H. W. Search and deputies W. A. Camp- 

(3) 



34 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

bell, A. Barnes and Alderman Donohue. They were 
taking five prisoners to the Eastern Penitentiary. 
One was a Hungarian who had murdered a fellow- 
countryman of his. He was going to prison for seven 
years. They were fair-looking young men and we pitied 
them and detested vice the more. 

Passing Allentown and Bethlehem we cross the 
Delaware at Easton just below where it receives the 
waters of the Lehigh. Through Phillipsburg and on 
through central New Jersey, and I was pleased with 
the country. Wheat and rye were about all harvested 
and oats were about ripe and some fields of corn were 
heading out. At Metuchen we run in on the Pennsyl- 
vania Railroad and now on through Elizabeth and 
Newark to Jersey City, all the way much like a city. 
How we did dash and roar right through these cities 
whose streets were barricaded with long arms that 
rose and fell as we rushed by. 

At Jersey City we leave the train and going upon 
a great ferry-boat are soon in the mighty and 
bustling city of New York. I put up at Smith & 
McNeil's popular hotel and eating-house, opposite 
Washington market. After dinner I went up to great 
Central Park, wishing to see the famous place, in her 
cool, summer dress of green, spangled with flowers, 
as each time when I was there before she had on her 
too cool robes of white snow. I there met thousands 
of people rambling among rocks and trees, on green 
fields, beside lakes or in shady bowers. What a host 
of children in baby carriages and in arms, or walking ; 
many of them looked as if they indeed needed fresh 



FROM THE MOUNTAINS TO THE SEA. 35 

air. Again I gazed a long time on the odd and very- 
ancient obelisk from distant Egypt. It stands on an 
eminence of three layers of great stones about 17 feet 
square at the base. The obelisk, or needle, as it is 
sometimes called, stands on a great stone which was 
brought with it, measuring nine feet square by seven 
feet in thickness. The top of the obelisk is, say, 
sixty-five feet from the ground. The turnouts or car- 
riages of all kinds, shapes and colors which you see 
here by the thousand are an interesting feature of the 
place. The coachmen are dressed in livery. How- 
ever, many of the vehicles are driven by the owner 
himself as he goes out with his family, or with some 
friend, or alone. Here I saw the lightest and most 
graceful and easy carriages that I have yet seen. I 
went down by the menagerie and saw a large herd of 
elephants feeding in a field. The wonderful variety 
of birds, some to swim, some to wade, and some to 
sing and others better adapted to aerial flight, all 
make an interesting show. I bid good evening to the 
park and go down on the "Elevated," which means, 
of course, the elevated railroad. 

On the morning of the 15th I took my trunk up 
to Pier 40 and gave it in care of the great Cunard 
Steamship Company. I went aboard the " Servia," a 
magnificent ship, and looked about awhile, but I will 
know her better before I try to tell you of her. 

In the afternoon I paid fifty cents for an excursion 
ticket to Coney Island, and stepped aboard of a great 
iron boat with hundreds of others and steamed down 
New York Bay. Yonder is Brooklyn, the great 



36 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

bridge, Long Island, Governor's Island ; yonder Jer- 
sey City, New Jersey, Bedloe's Island, bearing above 
the waves the mighty Statue of Liberty Enlightening 
the World ; Staten Island, Forts Hamilton and old 
Lafayette, light houses, Sandy Hook, etc. Oh, what 
a breeze ! it is almost cold ! and so hot in New York J 
See that straight line in the water which tells where 
the brown waters of New York Bay meet the clear 
blue waters of Old Ocean. The air seems to smell 
slightly of salt. Oh, how delightful it must be to sail 
salt seas ! Now we turn a point and land at a great 
iron pier which runs more than a thousand feet into 
the sea. 

We are now at Coney Island on the eastern coast 
of Long Island. I wish I had time to describe the 
place. It is perhaps the most wicked place in Amer- 
ica, though very handsome. Fun and pleasure, and 
money-making here hold High Carnival all summer. 
Like a holiday every day and on Sundays like two 
holidays. I stood on the white sand and saw men, 
women and children bathing. Some contending with 
waves far out, others holding onto ropes, while others 
stood or lay in the sand with sea waves dashing over 
them. You must know that the sea is always in 
motion, its waves always either sigh or roar, coming 
up and going back. It is alive and doing business 
where it has done business for thousands and may be 
millions of years. Here are great hotels covering 
acres. West Brighton, Brighton and Manhattan 
Beach, and miles away across the waves may be seen 
the gigantic hotel at Rockaway Beach. To the east 



FROM THE MOUNTAINS TO THE SEA. 2)7 

is the great, blue, everlasting sea. Paying five cents I 
rode on the Marine Railway which runs over a corner 
of sea water for nearly a half a mile to Manhattan. 
What a beautiful place ! 

I paid ten cents and went in to hear Gilmore's 
great band of sixty-five musicians play. The bright- 
colored cloth canopy tinged all below charmingly. 
Oh, what enrapturing music for an hour or two ! 
" Unequalled." Yes, P. S. Gilmore, that is the word. 
They blend thunder and clang and ring and cling and 
roar and whistle and sighs and sobs and shouts and 
bird songs, twang of catgut and ring of anvil and ex- 
ultations of all kinds into music so rare that when you 
do not laugh or cry you either write poetry or plan 
for greater and better things. They played in a place 
that made me think of a great sea shell set up at the 
edge of the sea with open part turned inland. At an- 
other place I heard the 7th Regiment band of nearly 
fifty pieces play. They do grandly also. 

Toward evening I was taken, for ten cents, to the 
top of the great steel tower, three hundred feet up. 
There you have a strange and awful feeling as you gaze 
out over sea and land for fifty miles. Men and women 
below look like children. Say ten miles away stands 
the dark Statue of Liberty. Away on the sea the 
white sails glisten and wave. Music rises from below 
and you see the merry-go-rounds in the form of all 
kinds of animals, birds and fishes ; and there are a 
cluster of balloons flying around and around. Now 
the lamps are lighted and the beach is all ablaze with 
colored lights, clustered and single, and one almost 



38 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

thinks the flower-beds have begun to send out lights 
as well as fragrance. Now we descend and as we are 
just " too late" for the boat we must wait an hour. 

Life is something intense here at night. Oh, I 
wish each one of my readers could be for an half hour 
at the top of that lofty steel tower. They would see 
and learn so much of the sea, of geography and of 
this mysterious thing called human nature or life. On 
the ground amid things, glorious and otherwise; amid 
painted things animate and inanimate, you are asked 
to come and sit, free of charge, to see and hear shows 
of acting, dancing, singing, sleight of hand and the 
drolleries of clowns, but while you listen they hope 
you will order something to eat or drink, which we 
about always do, for you know, if we Americans 
are not "dry" we can always eat, if it is only ice 
cream, in July. It is dark, or rather it is dark some- 
where else. Coney Island does not believe in physi- 
cal darkness. 

We go to the 8:40 p. m. boat and sit on the top 
deck. The whole beach for miles blazes with gas and 
electricity like a hundred political torch-light parades. 
Yes, "the lights along the shore" are burning. Where 
a great sea strikes a great land there the fire flies, so 
to speak. Now our monster boat glides up the bay. 
See yonder the fire-works at Manhattan! A sham 
battle with cannon and mortar is going on ! The 
whole canopy of darkness blossoms with gay colored 
fires that scatter their brilliant leaves slowly down 
toward the earth. Oh, enchanting spot ! let men, women 
and children beware, for we cannot live forever on ice 



FROM THE MOUNTAIN'S TO THE SEA. 39 

cream, and fire-works, and music, and beer, and hope 
and envy, and ambition, etc. The bay is full of ships 
small and large. Now we see the great Statue lit up. 
The light should be ten or twenty times as great. 
Yonder is the Brooklyn bridge spanning the east 
river; see the lamps ! How like a great row of lights 
in the heavens. 

We got off the boat at Pier I and took the elevated 
railroad to Smith & McNeil's, where I rested well last 
night, and now I must stop writing and go and trade 
off a few "green-backs" for "British gold;" to use in 
Liverpool, Whitby, London, etc., for in about two 
hours that English Captain of the " Servia" will say 
"all aboard" and we will wave a farewell to America's 
shore and at three o'clock I will wave my — white, yes, 
white handkerchief, to all my friends and readers and 
to those dear little, tender, wondering, hopeful hearts 
in Lehman. But, what is the matter? I seem to need 
spectacles! Farewell. 



CHAPTER III. 

" BEHOLD ALSO THE SHIPS." 

TWENTY-THREE HUNDRED MILES OF BILLOWS PASSEN- 
GERS VARIOUSLY ENGAGED — LOOK THROUGH THE 

GREAT SHIP WHERE BUILT HER SIZE ONE-TENTH 

OF A MILE LONG HER WEIGHT HER MINES OF 

COAL PASSENGERS — CREW TWO STORIES UNDER 

WATER THE STEERAGE THE GILDED SALOON TEN 

THOUSAND HORSES OF STEEL TO CONQUER THE SEA — 
THE RAGING FURNACES AND SWEATING FIREMEN ON 

THE FLOOR OF THE SHIP "YOU ARE CHALKED" 

THE VAST, VIRTUOUS OCEAN NOON IN THE JJEEP 

TIME ANNIHILATED THE IRON TUNNEL THIRTY- 
FIVE BOAT LOADS OF FUEL MAN MOVES ALL THE 

OCEANS OUEENSTOWN LETTERS ON TO LIVER- 
POOL. 

Twenty-three hundred miles of Atlantic billows 
rise and fall between our good ship "Servia" and New 
York, in the " Land of the Free." I sit by a brass- 
bound porthole, which is closely locked each night 
with its round door of heavy, clear glass. The ship 
rolls gently from side to side. Men are talking, chil- 
dren are prattling and playing. Ladies are sitting in 
easy chairs reading, novels in nearly all cases. Many 
of the young men are resting or sleeping in their 



"behold also the ships." 4 1 

berths. It is three o'clock in the afternoon of Friday 
July 22d. The water roaring, and white with foam, 
rushes in waves from the black, steel sides of our 
great ship as if angry at being thus disturbed, while 
the deep blue waves roll away to the north many 
hundreds of miles farther than we can see. The whole 
sky is covered with clouds of light lead color and has 
been so shrouded for days and nights. They say we 
are about six hundred miles from Queenstown, Ire- 
land, where we will land before sailing to Liverpool. 

The Royal Mail Ship, " Servia," is a large and 
magnificent steamship worthy of a few words of de- 
scription. She was built in 1882 at Glasgow, on the 
Clyde, Scotland, and cost about two hundred and fifty 
thousand pounds, or over twelve hundred thousand 
dollars. She is 530 feet in length and about 54 feet 
wide. Think of it, she would reach from the middle 
of Franklin street to River street, Wilkes-Barre. She 
sinks into the water when loaded about 26 feet, leav- 
ing about the same number of feet of her hull above 
water, while her upper decks are nearly or quite sixty 
feet from her lowest timbers or the steel frame-work 
of her keel. Three great iron masts rise above the 
deck more than a hundred feet. Her weight with- 
out cargo is about eight thousand tons and with 
her present burden weighs about thirteen thousand 
tons. Her tonnage is set down at seven thousand two 
hundred tons, i. e., the number of tons she can carry. 
We have on board nearly seven hundred passengers 
and the ship's crew, numbering about two hundred 
and fifty, making a total of nine hundred and fifty 



42 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

persons. She is constructed of steel and iron: I mean 
the hull and frame work. One coating of steel out- 
side and a lining of iron within. She is one of the 
very largest ships in the world. The saloon and first- 
class cabins are finished and furnished magnificently. 
The captain gave me permission to go, and attendants 
to show me, through the ship. I went down under 
the forecastle deck and saw where the steerage pas- 
sengers have to eat and sleep. The darkness and 
closeness and seasickness of many and not over-clean 
% people make it a dismal and unpleasant place. Away 
down near the bottom of the ship where the waters 
are always dashing on the outside of the steel-plating 
I saw the common sailors' bunks, and on the other 
side the firemen or coal heavers have their quarters, 
while just above a great store of provisions are kept, 
meat, vegetables, &c. The fresh meats and fish are 
kept cool and sweet in a chemical refrigerator run by a 
steam engine, which is going nearly all the time. In 
some rooms of the steerage part of the ship, I count- 
ed bunks or sleeping places for twenty persons. 

The intermediate department is capable of accom- 
modating but a hundred or two of passengers, but the 
berths are clean and comfortable, being supplied with 
spring beds, blankets and all necessary articles. 

The first-class cabins are very elegant. I was 
shown the room of the Earl of Aberdeen and lady 
who are on board, and also where the Queen of the 
Sandwich Islands had her home when she came over 
to New York the early part of July. I visited the 
barber shop, the grand saloon, the music gallery, the 



" T.EHOLD ALSO THE SHIPS." 43 

pantry, the dish room and the cooking department, 
the fruit room, the library, the bath rooms, the ladies' 
boudoir, the smoking room, the wheelhouse, the cap- 
tain's room, the mates' room, the drug store, &c. The 
saloon, as I above stated, is fine. It is lighted by 
many electric chandeliers, and will seat in cushioned 
chairs at dinner 309 people The beautiful hard wood 
with its inlaid pictures representing art, science and 
commerce, and the beaten brass, and crimson curtains 
about the portholes, and the large hanging nickel- 
plated goblet racks over the tables, all have a pleasing 
effect. 

Mr. Julian De Ovies, a young and polite Spaniard, 
who is proud of his old Castilian blood, Fruit Stew- 
ard, showed me around. At the printing office he 
gave me menus and concert programmes, charts, &c. 
Probably the part of the ship that impressed me most 
was the engine and fire rooms where the power is 
generated and exerted to force this monster of the 
deep, in one week, against and through three thou- 
sand miles of winds and waves on the stormy Atlantic. 
Near the middle and at the bottom of the ship the 
mighty engines are located. Open work of steel like 
ladders form the decks or scaffolds above this portion 
of the ship so that the hot air may ascend and cool 
air find its way down. When I went down where 
these steel giants were every second lifting three mon- 
ster piston-rods seventy-eight inches upward and 
heard the labored breathing and felt the powerful pul- 
sations I said, "a great institution to conquer a great 
ocean!" The engines are 10,000 horse-power. The 



44 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

employees were courteous and pointed out the vari- 
ous parts of interest. This vast riveted chest of steel 
is the condenser where the steam is pressed back to 
water to use again. You see much smoke float away 
from an ocean steamer but little or no steam. We walk- 
ed along the great twenty-inch shaft that revolves the 
screw that propels the ship. The sides and top of 
this long tunnel through which runs the shaft, is of 
heavy boiler iron with water-tight doors here and 
there, which in case of accident are closed, and though 
one portion of the vessel were filled with water, other 
parts might be all right and keep all afloat. The 
water-tight doors are closed at noon each day to be 
sure that all is in working order. 

I went into the fire-rooms, where few passengers 
are admitted. Here were thirty-nine roaring furnaces, 
where twenty-one sweating men were heaving the coal 
and keeping up the fires. I also went into the coal 
bunkers or bins where 2,100 tons of coal are stored 
for each trip. It looked like a Wyoming valley coal 
mine near a number of raging furnaces. It was, be- 
tween the fires, the most oven-like place I had ever 
seen. I then contrasted the difference between the 
position of these firemen and the gentlemen and dudes 
in the luxurious ice cream and wine palaces overhead. 
Indeed, I fancied I found as good and trustworthy 
men down there on the floor of the deep as could be 
found above, though some of them did draw a shovel 
on the smooth iron floor in front of me, thus say- 
ing, "you are chalked," in other words, "a fee is 
expected." 



"behold also the ships." 45 

I acknowledge, the trip cost me a number of Eng- 
lish shillings, but it was a " big show" for me, and I 
was quite satisfied. The men stay down here four 
hours at a time and then go up to rest for eight hours. 
When not really in front of the roaring furnaces they 
stand under ventilators, whose funnel-shaped mouths 
are turned to the windward, on deck, fifty feet above. 
By the way, perhaps there are a hundred venti- 
lators in various parts of the ship to suck up and carry 
down fresh air to the lower portions of the ship, for at 
night, and especially in very stormy weather the 
portholes, (windows) and doors and hatchways are all 
closed nearly or quite water-tight, as the ship plunges 
under and through the awful waves of the sea. 

Great is man, but greater is the Maker of the sea ! 
Man may use Old Ocean, if he walk uprightly, for 
legitimate purposes, but she is too vast and virtuous 
to be poluted by the pigmy, man. Now I hear a 
clanging and a ringing, and the engineer says it is 
twelve o'clock and he turns the good clock ahead 
nearly half an hour, for as we run toward the sun we 
gain time; as it were, we help the sun to do his work. 
He writes on a bulletin that we have made 366 miles 
since yesterday at twelve. The smooth, oily floor of 
the engine room is hard to walk upon when the ship 
rolls and they give me a handful of clean waste to 
help me grasp the smooth, greasy iron stair-rail as I go 
up to the free, open deck in time for dinner. 

The engineer said, "we work up to nearly ten 
thousand horse-power," and the captain said "we 



46 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

burn from two hundred to two hundred and five tons 
of coal per day." 

When a boy I wondered at the greatness of a 
canal boat that could float away with sixty tons of 
coal, but this leviathan of the deep required thirty-five 
boat loads of coal to enable her to say "good after- 
noon" to America and "good morning" to queenly 
old Europe. 

These powerful engines displace or dash out of the 
way about four hundred million tons of water in 
going from New York to Liverpool and doubtless 
agitate trillions of tons more. 

This is certainly long enough for one letter and in 
my next I will mention our voyage, our fellow travel- 
ers and the " great deep" and some of its wonders. 

We are now in sight of Queenstown, Old Ireland, 
where they take our letters to mail them for America. 
Some of our company disembark here, but most of 
them cross the Irish sea, nearly three hundred miles 
farther to the world-famous shipping port of Liver- 
pool, England. Adieu, across three thousand miles 
of deep, blue water. 



CHAPTER IV. 

ON THE GREAT DEEP. 

ON BOARD THE SHIP — HOT DAY AN ACRE OF WAV- 
ING HANDKERCHIEFS, DAMP WITH TEARS AND 

PERSPIRATION — BAND PLAYS " AULD LANG SYNE" 

MOVING OFF THROUGH A LABYRINTH OF GREAT 
THINGS — OTHER EUROPE-BOUND STEAMERS OFFI- 
CERS VIGILANT HILLS SINK WITH THE SUN AT THE 

WEST END OF A BROAD, SILVER AVENUE HOT BELOW 

DECK — MY BEDROOM MY COMRADES THE SPOUT- 
ING WHALE — SHIP FARE — SUNDAY ON THE SEA RE- 
LIGIOUS SERVICES FOG — BIRDS — PORPOISES — BIG 

FISH COLORED FISH THE SEA TRIES TO MIMIC THE 

HEAVENS — A WORLD OF WATER FIVE MILES DEEP 

ITS GLEAMING ARMS ENCIRCLE THE ICY NORTH AND 

THE SPICY GROVES OF "FAR CATHAY" FRIENDS 

ON DECK — WHAT SEA WATER IS LIKE — PEOPLE FROM 
ALL OVER THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA A GAL- 
LANT EARL AND HIS FAIR COUNTESS; GENTLEFOLKS; 
THEY AMUSE AND TREAT POOR CHILDREN — NAMES OF 
SOME FELLOW PASSENGERS — OCEAN ROUGH — MANY 
ILL — THE WRITER KEEPS WELL AND SWAYS IN A 
HAMMOCK WORTH FIFTEEN HUNDRED THOUSAND 
DOLLARS — COOL ON THE SEA IN JULY — IRELAND 

SEEN THROUGH FOG PLEASANT SIGHT THE OLD 

"STOW-A-WAY" RECEVES A SOVEREIGN — OFF QUEENS- 
TOWN SAILING UNDER BIRDS ON THE IRISH SEA. 

About l o'clock on Saturday, July 16th, I found 
myself, by street car and on foot, wending my way to 



48 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

Dock No. 40, on the North River, to go aboard the 
Royal Mail Steamship " Servia." The weather was very 
hot. Why men and horses did not drop down more 
frequently than they did is a wonder to me. Hundreds 
of people were hurrying down to the great covered 
pier, many to sail on the " Servia," and others to see us 
off. Trunks, baggage and merchandise, and provisions 
for the trip, were being hoisted on board by great 
hoisting machines, and people were passing up the 
gang-planks or bridges. There were people of nearly 
all ages, sexes, and conditions in life. 

Many visitors came on board to take leave of their 
friends. ' Soon the word came for us to let go and put 
off. Then hand-shaking and embraces and tears, and 
finally the last bags of mail came on board, and visitors 
walked down the planks and a few later ones hurried 
up, and, while a band was playing on the pier, the 
connecting links between us and the shore were drawn 
up, while our great ship with her deck crowded with 
people, moved slowly out into the river. 

As we headed toward Old Ocean I heard the familiar 
notes of "Auld Lang Syne," and looking I saw the 
whole outer end of the pier was crowded with people, 
many being ladies, waving handkerchiefs, and, of 
course, our decks were all a-flutter with handherchiefs, 
mine with the others, for, though no one there on 
shore knew me, I could wave adieu to my country 
and her people. 

The day was clear, and the ride down New York 
Bay, near so many interesting objects, was very enjoy- 
able, notwithstanding the heat. It was remarkable 



ON THE GREAT DEEP. 49 

how plainly we could see the really great and lofty 
buildings in New York. It is a fact, that large and 
great things are seen best from a considerable distance. 

By the way, I was told that the music given us at 
leaving was due to the fact that we had on board with 
us some great person or persons, as it is not common 
for steamships to be thus serenaded by- a fine band at 
departing, and I afterward learned that we had as 
fellow-voyagers the Earl of Aberdeen and his Countess. 

As our great ship, (530 feet long) with nearly one 
thousand people on board, plowed the waters of the 
bay, we counted four other large steamers also leav- 
ing, bound for England, France and Germany. Our 
good Capt. Horatio McKay stands on the bridge, his 
vigilant eye sweeping the wide stretch of water as we 
begin to leave Sandy Hook on the west and Coney 
Island and Rockaway Beach on the northeast; and 
the old pilot stands near him, while the first mate, 
Robert S. Simpson paces to and fro at the bow, on the 
forecastle. As I did not then know his office or bus- 
iness, I walked near him and found him to be civil and 
not unwilling to give information, but when I noticed 
a rope was stretched between us and others, I saw it 
was proper for me to retire, as I afterwards learned that 
until a ship is fully out to sea there is always more or 
less danger from sand-bars, rocks or collisions. 

Now the hills on the New Jersey coast begin to 
look silvery and sink down with the sun, and as the 
sea is covered with a strange, beautiful light to the 
west, twilight sets in and we lose sight of America.. 
As the ship plows along, the white, foaming waters 

(4) 



50 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

roll away from her prow and sides and many of us 
gaze on the pleasing sight for hours, for though the 
breeze that fans our cheeks is cool, the ship, all below 
deck, is still very warm. 

At about io o'clock I retire to my state-room, and 
find that I have a neat little bed, upon a wire spring 
mattress, about two and a half feet wide by six feet 
long, and Assistant Steward W. W. Kennedy has put 
me in with three young men, each having a bed in our 
state-room, which is, say 6x8 feet, where we can look 
through a round port-hole upon the sea. Two beds 
on one side and two on the other side, one above an- 
other. The names of my fellow-travelers are Joseph 
Groves, of Pittsburgh, Pa., P. W. Rafter, of Rich- 
mond, Va., and B. McDonald, of New York City. 

Sunday morning I arose at half-past four; so hot 
and close in state-room I could hardly rest or sleep, 
but cool and refreshing on deck. As I walked the 
deck an elderly lady and young man were pointing 
and looking off northward, and there I too saw the 
white water-spout of a whale thrown up in the form 
of a great ox-bow, and probably a portion of his black 
back, but he did not gratify our curiosity by coming 
nearer. About seven o'clock the bell rang for break- 
fast and nearly every one found himself possessed of 
an appetite. The passengers in the steerage, or most 
uncomfortable portion of the ship, would be served 
with coffee, bread and meat, and sometimes oatmeal 
and soup. The intermediate passengers, having it 
clean and comfortable, were provided with coffee, tea, 
butter, milk, fresh bread, mutton, beef, potatoes, bacon, 



ON THE GREAT DEEP. 5 I 

oatmeal, puddings, etc., in liberal quantities. The sa- 
loon or first cabin passengers were provided with all 
the luxuries as well as the substantiate, soups, fish, 
fowls, meats, vegetables, bread, pastry, fruits, nuts, 
wines, etc. 

Yes, for say ten, twelve or fifteen dollars a day 
one can fare sumptuously even on the "great deep," 
as our lordly ship pushes on at the rate of four hun- 
dred miles a day. You will see that there is great 
difference in the treatment and board furnished, but 
you must remember that one pays $20.00, another 
$35.00, others from $60.00 to $120.00, or even more if 
they ask many extras. Being an ordinary man, 
as you know, I chose the medium position and was 
thus permitted to reach out my right hand toward 
gentility, wealth and culture, and my left hand to the 
worker, the poor, the humble and the sailor. 

Our first Sunday was a lovely day; the sea was 
"smooth as a lake," and at 10:30 a. m. the bell rang 
and we, that is, many of us, gathered into the saloon 
and our captain read a very suitable service from the 
prayer book of the Church of England, and we sang 
two or three hymns. While engaged in worship a fog 
sprang up and the fog-horn, or gong, was blown every 
minute or two until the fog lifted, or until we ran 
through it. You probably know that we could see 
but a few rods into this sea-fog and the whistle was 
sounded to prevent our colliding with another vessel; 
as much as to say, "look out there! I am coming!" 
The afternoon was fine, and after dinner all seemed to 
enjoy themselves as they sat or lay upon deck, or oc- 



52 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

cupied easy rocking-chairs and read, or gazed out upon 
the waters, while others promenaded the deck for ex- 
ercise; generally men with men and ladies with ladies,, 
as we had not yet become acquainted with each other; 
but later in the voyage the young men and women,, 
and old ones, could be seen walking briskly up and 
down, talking and looking out to sea, and watching 
the sea-birds as they flew through the air a short dis- 
tance above the water or rested themselves upon the 
swelling waves. The stormy petrel, or Mother Carey's 
Chickens, were seen all the way across the ocean at 
intervals. 

Quite often we would come into a school of 
porpoises ; perhaps hundreds of them. Sometimes a 
dozen or more at different places would shoot up and 
out of the water with their swinelike-looking heads,, 
reminding one of hogs springing over a low wall. They 
appeared to follow the ship a short distance, and you 
could see them gliding along some feet under water. 
They seemed five or six feet long, a foot or more in 
diameter, and with brown backs, and sides of gray or 
whitish color. I saw one large fish, say eight feet 
long, which I think was a shark, and as the ship rushed 
by, he curved his body and darted away like a pike. 
I saw green, red, yellow and white fish of smaller size,, 
and one bright, purple mass, like a peacock's tail, 
which was probably a jelly-fish. Readers and children, 
imagine yourselves on a world of water — water all 
around meeting the sky; the sun coming up out of 
the sea and going down into the sea ; and this water 
looks as blue, far out at sea, as indigo, especially when 



ON THE GREAT DEEP. 53 

the sun shines from a clear sky. You see, the heavens 
are older, and greater, and higher, and what can the 
sea, — the unstable sea do but to mimic the heavens ? 
When the heavens frown with dark clouds, then the 
sea frowns dark, and great waves roll and toss like 
clouds on its surface, and the white foam of the billows' 
crest and the sparkling phosphorus may be compared 
with heaven's lightning, while her almost constant 
roar may be called the imitation of thunder. 

Consider, also, that this world of water is from two 
to seven miles deep, and that it touches all the rest of 
the water in the world, for all the rivers and lakes of 
Earth (above or below the surface) stretch down their 
gleaming arms to the sea. The dew, and the shower, 
and the water-spout are all fed from the sea. The 
calm, beautiful sea that we gazed upon that Sunday, 
stretches away to the frozen north and the icy Antarc- 
tic of the south, many thousands of miles away. It 
encircles islands and continents from California's 
Golden Gate to the pearly and spicy isles of " far 
Cathay." 

I must hasten, for I have notes already which would 
demand a score or two of letters. I retired that evening 
at 8.30, and as the ship had cooled off in the ocean 
breezes, I slept well until 4.30 next morning and arose 
about 5 o'clock, feeling well. Going upon deck, I 
walk to and fro with friends, for I have found some 
friends already, or. sit in my own hired chair, for 
sailor Sullivan found a chair which he let me have for 
the trip for " four shillings," so near to a dollar that I 
gave him a dollar. Was the chair worth a dollar? 



54 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

Probably not, but its use was worth a dollar to rest 
in and save one's clothing clean and uncontaminated 
by the floor of the decks, for how can one rest in poor 
or soiled garments ? 

Let me tell the young and those unacquainted 
with the sea, that sea-water is perfectly clear and white, 
and as salty as very strong brine, and while a small 
quantity might be wholesome and settle the stomach, 
a larger quantity would surely make one ill, however, 
it might be an illness that would later bring a better 
feeling and health. I found that many of our comrades 
had crossed the sea before, some of them a number 
of times. 

Have you understood that our great ship took out 
four hundred and fifty saloon, or first-class cabin, 
passengers, one hundred and seventy-five steerage pas- 
sengers, and say seventy-five intermediate passengers, 
besides the officers and crew of two hundred and fifty? 
Mr. Hendrickson, of Brooklyn, N. Y., was in charge 
of a European excursion numbering about two hundred 
persons, composed chiefly of lady teachers of Brooklyn 
and New York. 

I met people from nearly every part of the United 
States and Canada. I met Mrs. Davies and her son 
and daughter, from Nebraska City, Neb., who were 
neighbors there of Mr. and Mrs. W. L. Wilson, 
formerly of Plymouth, Pa. Of course, I made a number 
of acquaintances among the officers and crew, and 
passengers, and took the liberty to ask them to write 
their names in my memorandum book. The best 



ON THE GREAT DEEP. 55 

known and most distinguished passengers we had 
were the Earl of Aberdeen and his wife, the Countess 
of Aberdeen. They had been traveling quite exten- 
sively in America. They are indeed gentle people, and 
much beloved on land and sea. The reader will 
remember that the Earl was formerly Lord Lieutenant 
of Ireland. The Earl is a young looking man, say 
five feet nine inches tall, slender, fair complexion, dark 
hair, and a slight tinge of Scotch in his appearance 
and accent. The Countess is about as tall as her 
lord, complexion fair, hair a beautiful reddish brown. 
She is young, and has children, at least one. When I 
saw her I was ever reminded of a fine, tall, healthy 
girl of education, taste, and gentle refinement, such as 
we occasionally meet in the country in America, in 
favored localities and well-to-do families. 

The Countess came out occasionally and made the 
little children of the steerage and intermediate depart- 
ments presents of confectionery, little books and toys; 
however, a few other ladies of the first cabin did the 
same, on at least two occasions. One evening much 
pleasure was afforded many of the passengers, when 
the Countess came to the fore of the ship and got the 
humble children to run races on the deck, and the 
winners were rewarded with some little prize of a toy 
or book. Finally, when she began to undo a rope to 
get up a tug-of-war among the little ones, the EarL 
came out and assisted her, and much mirth and good 
feeling was promoted by the harmless tugging at each 
end of the rope by the little ones, gazed at on each 
side by a wall of spectators. 



56 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

I will give a few of the names I have in my book 
written by themselves, viz : Earl of Aberdeen, Coun- 
tess of Aberdeen, (the Earl wrote merely "Aberdeen" 
with date and address, and the Countess wrote "Ishbel 
Aberdeen," date and address); Horatio McKay, Cap- 
tain; Robert B. Simpson, Chief Officer; Edward T. 
Richardson, Second Officer; Thomas Fleming, Pur- 
ser; Andrew Finnie, Chief Engineer ; Edward M. 
Finucane, Surgeon; John B. Lyle, Chief Steward; 
William W. Kennedy, an assistant steward; Julian de 
Ovies, steward in charge of the fruits and nuts; Mr. 
Hoy, Chief Cook ; Charles Bycroft and William, 
assistant stewards in intermediate department. Among 
the passengers I mention a few : Thos. Edwards, Louis 
F. Landers, Daniel Hockaday, P. Pearson, Wm. Cow- 
ley, P. Crowley, Miss Nellie Craig, Miss G. A. Norman- 
ton, Frank Sloan, Harry Footner, Thos. Goffe, Benj. 
Richards, Thos. Burke, Edward Stone, Fred. Leslie 
Chapman, of Amherst College, Mass. Thomas Davies, 
George Dibben, Fred. G. Davies, Miss Annie Jones, 
Miss Eleanor Birket, James Coventry, Boatswain on 
"Servia," Miss E. A. Dibben, Mrs. Booth, Mrs. G. Duf- 
ton, John Murphy and William Courtney, of " Servia ;" 
and W. G. Graham. 

The third day the ocean was quite rough, and our 
ship rolled and pitched, and the billows were wreath- 
ed with white foam, and as it came toward evening 
the clouds were dark and threatening, and the sailors 
climbed aloft and furled the sails and set the ship in 
order, and as the waves dashed upon the deck occa- 
sionally it looked as if we were to have a wild' night. 



ON THE GREAT DEEP. 57 

The rain fell fast and nearly all the passengers went 
below, and we could hear the boatswain giving orders 
with his shrill little whistle. Many were sea-sick, and 
that evening, and for a day or two following, they 
were a sad looking lot for they were obliged to " pay 
tribute to Old Ocean," in other words, " feed the fish." 
If the children do not know what these words mean 
I will tell them when I return. 

I did not get sick. I liked the motion of the ship. 
It was like a swing, a cradle, a see-saw, a rocking- 
chair, and merry-go-round, but most of all it remind- 
ed me how, when a boy, I climbed a very tall and 
slender hickory tree in a high wind, and as I rocked 
to and fro my mother on the ground begged me to 
come down. Poor mother ! I wish I had caused her 
less anxiety. But, really, many sailors and others 
wondered that I was not sea-sick. I thought if the 
Cunard people could afford me a hammock on the 
billows, worth fifteen hundred thousand dollars, I 
might try to keep well and cheerful. I think if one 
stands on deck and watches the billows rise and fall 
and breathes the fresh air, he will see what rocks him, 
and expect it, and resolve to let accounts with Old 
Ocean rest as they are and keep well. 

For four or five days we scarcely saw the sun, but 
we did not have much rain. I feared rainy weather 
in England, but for ten days now, the weather has been 
fine, and English people tell me they have not had so 
fine a summer since 1868. I am cool all the time and 
wear my winter clothes, barring the overcoat, but I 
wore one on the sea. 



58 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

To bring this letter to a close — on Sunday morn- 
ing, the eighth day, we faintly discerned the cliffs of 
Old Ireland through the fog, while sea-weeds floated 
on the waves and white gulls sailed through the air. 
After a while the fog lifted and we saw the green fields, 
and hills, and woodlands of Ireland more plainly, and 
they were a pleasing sight. To see land after many 
days is like "good news from a far country," or like 
" the shadow of a great rock in a weary land," or like 
the rainbow after the tempest. 

Between ten and eleven o'clock a. m. we arrived 
off the beautiful harbor of Queenstown, Ireland, and 
lay there until the " tender," a small steamship, came 
and took off the passengers who wished to land, along 
with their baggage, and the mails for Ireland, and the 
letters we wished sent back to America. We shook 
hands with our new-made friends, and amid cheers and 
jollity, and some repartee, we waved them adieu. 

I might tell you that our old "Stow-a-way" left us 
here. A man had hid himself in the ship at New 
York and came out of his hiding-place when he got 
hungry. A cheap passage, you see ! they made him 
work his way, but the sea was so kind to us that they 
were kind to him, and I was reliably informed that the 
Earl of Aberdeen gave the old "Stow-a-way" a sov- 
ereign, about five dollars. I am quite sure that the 
Earl is very lenient and kind to Ireland and the Irish 
people. 

Here, in the Irish sea, gazing on the distant and 
inland mountains of Ireland, and faintly discerning 



ON THE GREAT DEEP. 



59 



bays and towns along her coast, while beautiful sea- 
birds circle above us, I will close for the present, as 
it is mail time. 



CHAPTER V. 

THE IRISH SEA, AND LIVERPOOL. 

SUNDAY AFTERNOON OF BEAUTY AND PEACE — HEAVEN 
WEDS EARTH MOUNTAIN PEAKS IN WALES NOBIL- 
ITY, PEASANTRY, BEAUTY, AND GENIUS SING ON DECK 

TWILIGHT ENCHANTING LADIES SCREAM AND 

FAINT — REVOLVING LIGHTS TWINKLE ON ENGLAND'S 

SHORES LIVERPOOL OUR SHIP LINKED TO l8,000 

POUNDS OF STEEL ON THE FLOOR OF THE SEA MR. 

PUCKEY FINDS ME LIVERPOOL DOCKS COST HUN- 
DREDS OF MILLIONS OF DOLLARS A VAST SHIP-SAFE 

THE WORLD'S MERCHANDISE PILED ON CHISELED 

ROCKS ACRES OF AMERICAN PORK AND LARD 

HANDSOME LADIES HORSES A "TON WEIGHT" A 

HORSE UNDER SEVEN TONS OF PLATE GLASS — GREAT 

BUILDINGS FORLORN CREATURES RAILWAY TRAINS 

ROARING UNDER HUNDREDS OF SHIPS — A WILKES- 

BARRE GIRL MET MIGHTY SHIPS CUSHIONED IN 

GRANITE VASES THE ANGEL OF LIGHT PLACES HER 

JEWELED FOOT ON THE FLOWING MANE OF THE SEA. 

When I laid aside my pen the other day, we were 
sitting on the deck of a great ship while it was rapid- 
ly plowing the bright green waters of the Irish sea. 
The sea along the coast of Ireland looks very green. 
It is Sunday afternoon, and for hours we sail in sight 



THE IRISH SEA, AND LIVERPOOL. 6 1 

of the quiet green hills of Ireland, while the serrated 
and pyramidical mountains away inland look blue and 
most beautiful. We pass bays, and harbors, and light- 
houses, and ships, large and small, while many sea- 
birds wing the air above and about us. 

The afternoon draws toward evening and after sup- 
per the decks are all filled with passengers, sitting, 
walking or talking, and gazing toward the northwest 
where the sun is going down between two mountains 
in Ireland and lighting up the sky and the sea in most 
beautiful colors. The following words I take from my 
note-book just as they were written that evening: 

The Earl of Aberdeen and Lady having invited the 
people to assemble on deck and enjoy a praise service 
of song from the Sankey and Moody gospel hymns, 
Mrs. C. Laty, a sweet singer from St. Louis, led the 
singing, while nearly all joined the chorus. We sang 
" Homeward Bound," " Out On The Ocean Sailing," 
"Sweet Bye And Bye," and other appropriate hymns. 
The Earl and Lady and a minister standing, holding 
books and assisting to please and edify the large com- 
pany of singers and spectators. 

At the same time we could see just above the 
waves on the east, three or four dark peaks of moun- 
tains in Wales, and at the west a most gorgeous sun- 
set was seen over Ireland, and the bay of Dublin and 
the Irish sea were painted crimson, while a line of 
dark green was seen near the shore, and the deep blue 
mountain chain stretched between the blazing ocean 
waves and the brilliant, flaming clouds. It was diffi- 
cult to tell where ocean and the heavens met. People 



62 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

stood in wonder and delight, saying beautiful! inde- 
scribable ! while the horizon glowed half way around 
the world. This was 8:30, and at 9:10 I could still see 
to sing, or try to sing, from my little pocket edition of 
gospel hymns. 

It had been gloomy for a number of days, and now 
to add to the beauty of the scene the new moon hung 
its crescent in the western heavens. It was not really 
dark at 10 o'clock, at about which time a fog sprang up, 
and like an arrow a smaller steamer flashed by on our 
port side within a few feet, and many declared within 
a few inches. The officers shouted, ladies screamed, 
and a few fainted, and the steam fog-horn sounded its 
warning at brief intervals. Many realized that we had 
narrowly escaped a sad ending to a lovely and pleas- 
ant day, and expressed their gratitude that the sea was 
not claiming us or those of the smaller ship as scream- 
ing victims, for we were many miles from land, though 
at sundown we saw the tops of hills on either hand. 

An old gentleman from Omaha, Nebraska, named 
Joseph Hensman, on his way to native England after 
an absence of many years, asked the name of the lady 
that led the singing, and when I told him he said he 
knew her, as she was formerly a neighbor of his. 

A few evenings before this a concert had been 
given in the saloon for the benefit of a Sailors' Home 
in Liverpool. The programme was interesting and 
the Earl of Aberdeen was called to preside, and truth 
impels me to say that the richest part of the whole 
affair, notwithstanding two addresses by American 
reverend gentlemen, was the closing address by the 



THE IRISH SEA, AND LIVERPOOL. 63 

Earl. His manner is peculiar and pleasing and his 
words were not only very humorous and laughable, 
but politic and wise in reference to uniting commerce, 
nations and castes. Whatever his lordship is on land he 
is certainly a gentleman on sea. I do not say this be- 
cause he subscribed and paid for the TelepJione and 
also wrote out the directions for me to find the finest 
scenery in the highlands of Scotland. 

This is what he wrote: "The Highland railway, 
from Perth, passes through beautiful scenery. The 
pass of ' Killiecrankie,' is between Pitlochry and Blair- 
Athloe — about six miles between." 

At 1 1 o'clock there is still a bright streak along 
the northwestern horizon, where the sun went down, 
for you see, these northern regions have such long 
winter nights that they do not like to give up the sun, 
so they have a long, grand twilight. Now we see the 
revolving lights winking and blazing at Hollyhead 
and all along the English coast, and at 1 1:30 I retire 
to my berth, as they say we will reach Liverpool about 
2 o'clock in the morning. Falling asleep, I awoke two 
or three hours later, and looking out of the porthole I 
saw a long line of bright lamps, on a level along the 
water, and I knew we had reached the great and fam- 
ous port of Liverpool. I lay down and soon after an 
awful rumble, and rattle, and roar gave me to know 
that our true and tried ship was casting anchor in the 
Mersey river, as the tide was not high enough to float 
her into the dock. 

Yes, those great, heavy chains, that ran through 
the nostrils of our sea-monster, connected us with the 



64 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

anchors weighing 18.000 lbs. that lay in the sand on 
the river's floor. After resting awhile we arose and the 
stewards with cheerfulness and cordiality prepared us 
our last breakfast of the voyage. Then the sailors 
opened up the large hatchways or doors in the deck and 
hoisted out tons of trunks and baggage by steam ma- 
chinery, and it was let down upon a tender, a steam- 
boat on purpose to unload ships so they need not wait 
until high tide to land. The tender made two trips. 

My feelings when we packed up to leave the ship 
and her crew, and new-made friends, were similar to 
those of an old-time last day of school. I knew we 
should never in this world or any other world all meet 
in the same way, and though I saw no tears fall, yet 
my handkerchief arrested and absorbed a good many. 
Yes, there is my trunk, or rather Percy's trunk, bright 
as ever ; thirty-four hundred miles from Huntsville, 
Pa. Now, I have mentioned my son! How can I go 
on? An "only son!" "Greater love hath no man." 
Stubborn hearts surrender. 

Oh, here is Mr. Thomas Puckey, who has brothers 
in Wilkes-Barre ; he is an emigration agent and has 
heard of my coming. Our tender, or boat, moves 
away from the ship and after a run of a mile we are 
landed at a great building on the stone dock, where 
we wait until our baggage is conveyed into the exam- 
ining room of the Custom House. What noise and 
commotion, ringing of bells, roaring of wheels and 
waves, and rumble of iron-bound trunks and boxes on 
stone floors, rolling trucks, talking and laughing of 
men, and the petulant scream of the almost omni- 



THE IRISH SEA, AND LIVERPOOL. 65 

present child. Soon doors are opened and we go up 
an incline into a large room where the letters of the 
alphabet in large size are seen on the wall. Opposite 
" L," I find my trunk, and being in a hurry, as Mr. 
Puckey is waiting outside, I tugged it over to a low 
platform near the door, and unlock it in the presence 
of an officer, and take out some things, and open collar 
boxes, etc., for him to see. He asked, if I had any 
tobacco or cigars. I said, " No, sir." I was very willing 
he should see all, but he said, " What is this in your 
pocket?" "Got any cigars?" "No, I don't smoke." 
" Oh, note-book and papers." "That will do." The 
trunk was handed to a porter, and a boy carrying my 
satchel and parcel went before me to 18 Dutton street, 
where Mr. Puckey lives and also keeps a boarding- 
house. 

The school-boy knows that Liverpool is one of the 
greatest seaports in the world. I might write columns 
about Liverpool, but I must compress it to a few lines, 
for I have already seen several great cities in Eng- 
land, and to-morrow I expect to start for London. 

The docks of Liverpool might be termed a great 
marine depot or station, where many hundreds of ships 
from the four quarters of the earth come to load and 
unload great cargoes of human beings and all kinds 
of merchandise; timber, corn, cotton, pork, lard, mo- 
lasses and oil from America, tea from China, coffee 
from Java and Brazil, leather from Peru, flax from 
Russia, silks from Italy, wine from Spain, furs from 
the North, fruits from the West Indies, and spices 

(5) 



66 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

from the East Indies ; all these in quantities sufficient 
to stock thousands of great wholesale stores. 

To describe these docks, I might ask the reader to 
imagine a canal eight miles long; think of it ! a canal a 
thousand feet wide running from Wilkes-Barre to 
Pittston, or from Wilkes-Barre to Nanticoke, all lock- 
ed in by great walls of heavy cut stone and divided 
into many compartments of various sizes and forms, 
holding thirty feet of water; and some of these com- 
partments are dry-docks where vessels being floated 
in at high tide are left on blocks, dry, to be repaired, 
painted, etc. These docks cost hundreds of millions 
of dollars, and here and there on their broad walls are 
solid stone towers, some built for light-houses and 
some for clock-towers, and probably some erected for 
appearance only. I was permitted to ascend a light- 
house to the lamp and reflector and look through the 
keeper's telescope. 

Many vessels, large and small, were coming and 
going, and I saw three large ocean steamers start for 
America. There come two steamers crowded with 
excursionists from the Isle of Man, and soon a boat 
crowded with visitors is seen rushing out to sea, bound 
for the Isle of Man. The keeper said, the " Prince 
Albert" and the " Victoria," two new Isle of Man 
boats, are the fastest boats in the world, one going 25 
miles and the other 27 miles an hour. I asked if I 
could see the " Great Eastern," and he said " She went 
up to New Castle a week last Sunday, to the Exhibi- 
tion there." 



THE IRISH SEA, AND LIVERPOOL. 6j 

Across the Mersey river we see New Brighton, 
Lisceard, Birkenhead and Waterloo. I walked along 
the great stone highway that separates the ships from 
the restless tide and saw acres of American lard, pork, 
cotton and timber. How strange, to see great logs of 
trees here carted about, swung under carts with im- 
mense, broad wheels, say twelve or fifteen feet in diam- 
eter ! See the immense logs of mahogany, roughly 
squared ! I presume I saw timber and lumber enough 
to set up twenty wholesale lumber yards. Yes, and 
there is a saw-mill ! Is it possible ? in the city of 
Liverpool, where you will not find one wooden house ! 

I rode along these docks six miles for two pence 
(four cents) on the top of a tram car. Street cars 
here are called tram cars and they carry about as 
many people on the top as inside. Ladies, well, they 
dressed well and were handsome and modest, also 
ride on the top of these conveyances. You, or we 
rather, go up by winding steps from the rear platform. 
Some of these cars or 'busses have no flanges to their 
wheels and they can run anywhere on the smooth 
stone pavement, and thus avoid delays. 

Nearly all along these docks runs a wall of brick 
or stone, say fifteen feet high, which separates the 
business of the docks from the regular city streets, 
with broad gates here and there. It is within this 
wall that the tram cars and 'busses and great freight 
wagons and carts chiefly run. For long distances 
tall, gloomy buildings of brick and stone stand hold- 
ing many thousand tons of the world's merchandise. 



68 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

One of the sights that claimed my attention almost 
by the hour, were the magnificent draught horses 
moving along with tons of goods on great broad 
wagons that reminded me of flat freight cars. These 
horses, were bay, gray, roan, iron-gray, and jet black, 
perfectly matched. I said to a policeman, (oh, how 
attentive, how ready to answer, how handsomely uni- 
formed ! There are nearly fourteen hundred of them 
in this city,) " I do not often see such horses, do you 
know what they weigh ?" He said, " Come along," and 
crossing the street he said to a wagoner, "John, can 
you give the gentleman some information about 
horses ?" I ask, " Do they weigh sixteen, seventeen or 
eighteen hundred pounds?" He replied, "A ton 
weight ; Mapes, the sugar merchant, has one that 
weighs one and twenty-hundred." I thanked him and 
stood by a lamp-post to note it down, while the com- 
merce of millions roared around us. I do not say 
rush, for they do not rush here as in New York. The 
reasons are, the gangways of trade are kept more free 
from people and pleasure, and the docks are so broad 
and long, and the river front is nearly level and all 
paved with hard rock which is kept clean and smooth. 
Here come two of those grand iron-gray horses with 
eight immense hogsheads of oil, and here another 
pair, with nine great casks of tobacco, each cask 
weighing, say fifteen hundred pounds, and here two 
more with about fifty solid bales of raw cotton. 
These wagons weighed about three tons each. The 
policeman, "No. 647," George Quilliam, said, " One 
horse yesterday took seven tons of plate-glass on a 



THE IRISH SEA, AND LIVERPOOL. 69 

two-wheeled cart, three miles and a half— a bonny- 
horse," 

As I said before, the streets are paved quite evenly 
with hard rock all along these great docks and out 
and up through the city. A man said, " the granite 
comes mostly from Scotland and Ireland, and the 
paving stones from Wales." After I have seen thou- 
sands of acres of stone pavements and millions of 
cords of granite walls, I am more thankful for moun- 
tains of rock. 

I visited the post-office. The building is very- 
large and massive, of dark gray stone, and with its 
pillars in front reminds me of Girard college. I walk- 
ed up to St. George's magnificent town-hall and saw 
the great equestrian bronze statues of Prince Albert 
and. Queen Victoria. The expression of the prince is 
really most kind, intelligent and benevolent, and has 
in it a strong tinge of pity. If this is a correct like- 
ness, then I say the prince was a good man. See the 
monster lions of granite guarding the gateway ! 
There is the tall and handsome column uplifting the 
gigantic statue of the Duke of Wellington! Here is 
an excellent statue of Disraeli, late Earl of Beacons- 
field. The building is very grand within, but I did 
not enter it. As I stood on the asphalt pavement near 
St. George's fine hall, where immense granite lions and 
lofty columns glorify England and uphold marble and 
bronze portraits of her great ones, I saw three people 
who looked like well-to-do people from a country dis- 
trict of Pennsylvania. I asked a question of them 
and said I was a stranger. They replied, " So are we." 



JO IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

I said, " I am from America." They said, " So are 
we from America." The Adelphia Hotel, a fine 
building, stands opposite. 

As I stand taking notes, I notice scores of healthy, 
good-looking girls and women passing to and fro. I 
think I must acknowledge that in complexion, at least, 
they surpass Americans — for bloom and freshness. 
They are dressed about the same as ladies in Amer- 
ica, many of them in good, rich black. 

One thing surprised me — to see so many, or even a 
few, wearing fur capes. True, the weather was not 
very warm, yet the idea of furs the last of July. I 
will say I have not felt a hot day here and I have not 
seen a fan used since leaving New York. 

I would have had a wonderful idea of Liverpool 
women for dress, modesty and beauty, if I had not 
happened to be the next evening in a certain portion 
of the city where the cotton factories closed for the 
day. In that quarter I saw miserable creatures in- 
deed. Poor, folorn creatures ; they looked as if they 
were either drunkards or had lived with drunkards for 
years. See the specimens of female humanity, carry- 
ing bottles and pails to or from liquor saloons! Yes, 
if you wish to see poverty, you must walk near the 
base of magnificence and luxury, or stand by a fount- 
ain that foams and spurts strong drink ; for gold is 
harder than human hearts, and strong drink corrodes 
the stomach, and wreaths the head in a worse fog 
than a London fog. 

Here is truly a modern Goliath, in bright uniform 
with bright metals, and gay plumes, and belt, and 



THE IRISH SEA, AND LIVERPOOL. /I 

sword! "Oh, that is Lewis' man, nearly seven feet 
tall ! He is door man and directs people to any part 
of the extensive store." An advertisement, you see! 
If I had time I would tell how I went under the river 
Mersey, an arm of the sea, while the world's shipping 
floated above us. 

We enter a great stone building, buy a ticket, 
walk down a few steps, get upon a "lift," i. e., an eleva- 
tor, large enough to hold a hundred or more people. 
We go down say fifty feet into the rocky foundations 
of the earth, and leaving the lift, walk down a flight of 
steps, and there, away under ground, we find a depot 
i. e., station, and an engine, and a train of cars. I en- 
ter a compartment of a car; there is room for ten per- 
sons in a compartment, in the third class ; a first-class 
compartment has room for six, with fine cushioned 
and armed seats. The doors close, and we start 
through the tunnel under the harbor of Liverpool and 
run rapidly through the darkness, and flash by a train 
going in the opposite direction. In a few minutes we 
are in Birkenhead and ready to be elevated into day- 
light. As I have a return ticket for three pence 
(six cents) I will go back the same way. 

I wend my way to 18 Dutton street, where I am 
pleasantly cared for by Mr. and Mrs. Puckey. Mr. 
Puckey said, "That man who ate supper with you, has 
been in Wilkes-Barre." " Indeed !" " Yes, that is Dr. 
Romain, the 'King of Dentists.'" Later in the 
evening, as I sat writing, an English " lass" walked in 
with her bundles and sat down on a bench, and as she 
looked to be a traveler I helped her to an easy chair; 



J2 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

she was not unwilling to talk and I found she was from 
the United States — had been over in Dorsetshire, vis- 
iting her sister and was now on her way back across 
the ocean. She seemed to prefer America to Eng- 
land. When I found she was from Pennsylvania I 
took an interest and asked her what part, and she said, 
" Wilkes-Barre, in Wyoming valley." " Indeed ! I 
have been there." She was Miss Daniels and had 
lived at C. E. Ayars' for years, in the same part of the 
city where we lived, I mean Percy and his mother and 
myself. Thus we see the world is so small that peo- 
ple cannot really get far away from each other. 

Now, I think of Joseph Groves, of Pittsburgh, who 
was one of my room-mates on board of the " Servia." 
He had lived with the Chambers family, near Pitts- 
burgh, for years. He left us at Queenstown, to visit 
his native land, and had authority to buy a few good 
horses to take back with him. 

In writing of the Liverpool docks, I wish the young 
and inexperienced to know, that these immense stone 
docks have great water-tight gates that are swung 
open at hightide, which is every twelve hours, for ships 
to go in and out, and when the sea or tide begins to 
fall, go back, the gates are closed, and thus the largest 
ships float all the time in thirty feet of water, which 
they could not do if it were not for these locked docks. 
People away from the sea should remember, that noon 
or night, summer or winter, storm or calm, the waves 
of the sea are always rippling or dashing on the sands 
or rocks — always coming up or going back ; making 
difference between high and low tide of from twelve 



THE IRISH SEA, AND LIVERPOOL. J$ 

to forty feet in various parts of the world. Here at 
Whitby, where I write this, the difference is about fif- 
teen feet. 

Yesterday the wind blew hard from the north, across 
the German ocean, and as I stood on the "West Cliff," 
Whitby, I watched the high, angry waves roll in and 
break on the shore and lash the rocks and great piers. 
The white, foaming, hurrying waves made me think of 
regiments of mad war-horses with white manes, charg- 
ing upon the land. Look ! it is near evening and a 
slight shower has helped to form the beautiful rain- 
bow, which, like an angel, sets one jeweled foot right 
where the great waves moan and die on the white 
sand, while the other foot rests in a green field by the 
old Abbey. Glorious scene ! I think of the one 
who shall shout, " Time was, time is, but time shall 
be no more." This angel seemed merely to say, 
" Here shall thy proud waves be stayed." 



CHAPTER VI. 

LIVERPOOL, MANCHESTER AND LEEDS. 

LIVERPOOL BUILDINGS GLOOMY SEEMED TO SHOW 

MOURNING — DEATH ON SHIPBOARD PET NAMES 

TRAVELING UNDER-GROUND ENGLISH CARS, LOCO- 
MOTIVES, AND STATIONS THIRTY-SIX MILES IN 

FORTY-FIVE MINUTES OAKS KILLED BY SMOKE 

ENGLISH LANDSCAPES GREAT, BUSY MANCHESTER 

SHIP CANAL MAGNIFICENT HALL FORTY ACRES OF 

MASTERPIECES IN ART, MACHINERY, ARCHITECTURE, 

AND FLORA CROWDS OF HANDSOME, WELL-DRESSED 

WOMEN GARDENS BLOOMING WITH COLORED LIGHTS 

FOUNTAINS OF GILDED WATER — A SWEET VOICE 

RIDING THROUGH LONG, DARK HIGHWAYS IN GRANITE 

HEDGES, STONE WALLS — UNDER THREE MILES OF 

ROCK ACRES OF SMOKING CHIMNEYS THE GUEST 

OF KIND PEOPLE — PLEASANT WALK EXTENSIVE 

BUILDINGS GREAT CO-OPERATIVE CONCERN — STREET 

CARS DUMMIES ROAD ENGINES. 

I am now at cousin Henry's in London. I have 
seen many great, ancient and remarkable things in 
England. Yesterday I visited Hyde Park and Kensing- 
ton with cousin John and his wife, where are cluster- 
ed many beautiful and interesting sights, within great 
buildings. However, it will hardly appear fair to 
write of London before mentioning' how I came here. 



LIVERPOOL, MAN-CHESTER AND LEEDS. "J $ 

At Liverpool one of the first things which attract- 
ed my notice was the black appearance of the build- 
ings, brick and stone, which looked as if they might 
be a thousand years old. The damp atmosphere with 
the steam and smoke have done it. The stores, 
dwellings, and great stone halls were the same, and 
caused me to imagine that they mourned for de- 
parted ones who had fallen on distant battle-fields, in 
foreign lands, and for those who had gone down in 
lonely seas in the north and south, and for others who 
had been burned or crushed in dark mines. 

Perhaps I should also have mentioned that an eld- 
erly invalid lady died on our ship a few days after we 
sailed from New York. Her name was Mrs. Trude, 
of Chicago. I presume she was the grandmother of 
<' Percy" Trude, a bright boy I met on the ship. Her 
remains were carefully placed in a life-boat, swung far 
above the deck, and conveyed to England, on our 
good ship. After all, it is not singular that passen- 
gers being carefully carried over dashing, roaring Old 
Ocean, should speak of the ship as " good," " grand," 
"noble," etc., and that sailors should speak of the ship 
as " she," and give her pet names. 

Now I enter a railway station and purchase a 
ticket for Manchester, and entering a compartment of 
a car, we soon roll out of a great station and run un- 
der-ground a long way before coming to sunshine. I 
presume we ran right under broad streets and great 
buildings to be out of the way, for railways here must 
go under or over traveled streets. The cars are not 



j6 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

so long as those in America and are divided into com- 
partments by partitions which run right across the car 
and are say 6x8 feet square and have two seats running 
across and facing each other, so that half of the pas- 
sengers ride backward, there being room for from six 
to ten persons in each compartment, according to the 
class. Some are fitted up very finely with cushioned 
seats, curtains, mirrors, water, and so forth, and are 
labeled " First" or " Second" on the doors, while 
those marked " Third" have plain, carpet-like cush- 
ions and backs, and often only the bare boards. Per- 
haps five out of six who travel go "Third-class." 
Fare third-class is about two cents a mile, second- 
class is about two and three-fourth cents a mile, and 
first-class about three and a fourth cents a mile. The 
compartments have glass doors and windows on both 
sides, and passengers, of course, enter on the side, so 
there may be five passengers stepping into a car at 
the same instant. The doors on one side are locked 
so people cannot step out on the wrong side. The 
station-master and guard turn the handles of the 
doors that are not well closed, and at the sound of a 
shrill whistle the engineer hears and sees, that all is 
right, and away we go. 

The depots are called stations here, and in large 
cities are very extensive, say ten or twelve times as 
large as the Lehigh Valley station at Wilkes-Barre. 
I saw far larger and more expensive stations, but none 
more beautiful and convenient than the one at Wilkes- 
Barre, Pa. 

The platforms at the stations here are paved with 



LIVERPOOL, MANCHESTER AND LEEDS. ^f 

large flagstones and are all on a level with the side 
doors of the cars. The locomotives are good-sized,, 
and in the hilly regions of the north they are very 
heavy, and dark green paint seems a favorite color for 
them. Formerly the locomotive had no cab to shield 
engineer and fireman, except a steel plate in front with 
a pane of glass in each side. This would keep off the 
wind but not the rain and snow. Now the shield or 
front piece turns back over the engineer from twelve 
to thirty inches on different engines. 

In large cities the tickets (you cannot enter the 
car without a ticket) are generally punched when you 
go upon the platform to enter the train, and are taken 
from you when you are leaving the station at the end 
of your journey. Sometimes you go up from twenty 
to sixty steps to enter a car, and sometimes down the: 
same distance. At a station you cannot cross the 
rails, but must go up and over a bridge, or under a 
"subway." Enough, I may mention railroads here- 
after. We ran from Liverpool to Manchester, 36 
miles, in 45 minutes. 

We ran through Warrington, a large manufacturing 
place that made the whole city and farm country 
around smoky. One old gentleman said : " The 
smoke is killing the hardy oak and other trees." On 
this trip I enjoyed my first views of English landscapes. 
It was a pleasing scene; the country generally level, 
was diversed with trees, spires, gardens, fields, hedges^ 
grain fields, turnip fields, pasture fields full of sheep,, 
cattle and horses, farm-houses and villas surrounded 
by trees, shrubs and flowers. I may say that travel- 



yS IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

ing in England is like moving through great parks, 
gardens and tombless cemeteries. 

At Manchester I found a great city, or centre, of 
nearly a million inhabitants, and a great exhibition 
was in progress. The Manchester people are enter- 
prising and ambitious, and are now about ready to 
commence the making of a ship canal from here to 
Liverpool, which will make Manchester a great inland 
port and add immensely to her business and wealth. 
Liverpoolians are opposed to this mighty undertak- 
ing. 

I went to the post-office, and buying some stamps 
and " post-cards," sent off some mail. Then I went 
to see the magnificent town-hall, which cost twelve 
hundred thousand dollars. It is of gray stone and is 
four hundred paces in circumference. It was twelve 
years building, has " three hundred" rooms, and is six 
stories high. Buying a ticket for sixpence, I entered 
the building and was shown around by a handsome, 
well-dressed man ; by the way, some of the most 
pleasant and affable men I ever met are acting as 
guides and vergers in some of the old castles and 
cathedrals here. I am now thinking of the very kind 
and intelligent man who showed us through the 
quaint old Shakespeare house at Stratford-on-Avon. 
The chimes, and the fine, polished granite and marble 
columns, and the fine historic paintings costing ten 
thousand dollars each, at this great town-hall, I shall 
not soon forget. 

Seeing 'busses and tram or street cars passing al- 
most every minute, labeled, " To the Exhibition," I 



LIVERPOOL, MANCHESTER AND LEEDS. Jg 

climbed to the top of one and sat there with a dozen 
or more of my well-dressed and orderly English 
cousins of both sexes, and enjoyed a pleasant ride of 
two or three miles along pleasant streets, — well paved 
— all English towns or cities are very well paved with 
rock, wood, asphalt, brick, pitch, and gravel or some- 
thing — streets, alleys, lanes, squares, markets, etc. Here, 
where stand long rows of conveyances, large and small, 
public and private, is the great Exhibition building, in- 
cluding the old Botanic gardens, all covering thirty- 
six and a half acres. I put down a shilling (24 cents) 
and pushed through the revolving gate which gave a 
click, showing it to be a recording or counting gate. 

They said, twenty thousand a day would attend. 
Entering, I found myself surrounded by plants, flow- 
ers, statuary, paintings, all kinds of bazaars, and there 
a great building devoted to machinery, which was a 
grand and extensive display. Almost a second Corliss 
engine gave the power to run the machinery. Here 
are a number of large and beautiful locomotives, fifty 
feet long, and some with seven-foot driving wheels. 
Here is a very handsome teak passenger car fitted up 
first-class, with all the conveniences of a modern parlor 
and sitting-room. 

The art gallery, occupying many large rooms, was 
crowded with many fine paintings from all over Eng- 
land, and embraced things of such rare beauty as to 
. keep one looking, and loving, and wondering for days. 
The old Manchester streets, which were shown, 
guarded and occupied by people in quaint and ancient 
dress, were an interesting feature. 



80 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

At night, the Botanic gardens, which are a part of 
the grounds, were lit up by thousands of colored lights, 
in form of stars, crowns, roses, initial letters, etc., and 
the edge of the serpentine lake and all the walks and 
thicket edges blazed with beautiful mellow light, which 
made the place one of enchantment. About 9.30 
o'clock, the great central fountain was unsealed, and 
for a half hour it threw lofty columns of water glitter- 
ing with many and changing colors beautifully blend- 
ing — a scene of beauty never to be forgotten. While 
I stood viewing the scene a pleasant-voiced lady 
looked at me, and said, "Are you enjoying yourself?" 
I answered, " Yes, very much." I presumed she was 
some one who thought she knew me. The voice was 
so kind and cheery, like old times in Wyoming valley, 
that I thought it was a voice I had heard there. Do 
such voices fall on our ears and hearts sometimes from 
Spirit-land to soften, and remind, and guard us ? I 
afterward remembered that I had met her and her 
mother during the afternoon, and enjoyed a pleasant 
chat with them, while resting near the great throng. I 
must leave old Manchester for the present, but I shall 
not forget her great Exhibition, nor fine town-hall, 
and her thousands of beautiful, modest girls and 
women. 

I left Manchester for Leeds about 4 p. m. Ran 
through a fine, hilly country full of farm-houses and 
hedges, the fields reaching up and over the hills. Now 
we run among the hills ; all the houses are stone or 
brick ; now we dash into a tunnel and run rapidly for 
some minutes through the darkness under a mountain 



THE IRISH SEA, AND LIVERPOOL. 8 I 

for say four miles — the longest tunnel I have seen. 
Think of the money and labor required before a train 
can dash through the solid foundations of a mountain! 
When we emerged we were still in a vale between 
hills, the hedges have given way to stone walls, and 
the hill-tops are more dark, rugged and barren, and 
I begin to think of Yorkshire heather and the "dry, 
dark wolds" of which the poet wrote. 

Now we roll through quaint, old towns of gray 
stone buildings — no paint. Here is Huddersfield, a 
considerable town, noted for making woolen goods. 
Now we dash into another tunnel, and rush and roar 
for three miles. At last the smoky chimneys of old 
Leeds are seen. As we roll in on a "high level" the 
thousands of red chimney pots on the houses and the 
very tall brick chimneys of the factories remind me 
of large fallows just burned over, as I have seen 
them in America. 

Leaving the train at Leeds, I find my way to Mr. 
F. I. Wing's. He is father of Mr. H. K. Wing, of 
Plymouth, Pennsylvania. Mr. and Mrs. Wing (Mr. 
Wing has been at Plymouth) treated me very kindly 
and hospitably, and after tea Mr. W. and I took a very 
pleasant walk through the chief streets, Bridget, and 
Bow, of old Leeds. He has lived here many years 
and has seen great changes. He is a cloth merchant 
and is quite well-to-do. We saw the fine town-hall in 
which many men and boys were reading and study- 
ing, also some fine stores, markets, churches, hotels 
and residences. 

(6) 



82 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

Mr. Wing said, the place was once famous for 
making woolen goods and cloths, but is now noted 
more for making up cloth into garments. Leeds has 
about 350,000 population, say ten Wilkes-Barres. 
There is a great co-operative society here in which 
25,000 men are interested. Mr. Wing says it works 
well. Here I first noticed the low, American street 
car, and the " dummy" engine, like a little house, 
drawing cars through the streets, and here, also, I 
noticed great road engines, or locomotives, hauling 
heavy cars or wagons through the streets; up and 
down, without a track. 

I left Leeds about nine a. m. for the ancient city 
of York, being much pleased with the kind, neigh- 
borly treatment paid me by Mr. and Mrs. Wing. 



CHAPTER VII. 

YORK AND WHITBY. 

THROUGH FARMS AUGUST FIRST, WHEAT NOT RIPE CITY 

OF YORK ITS BEAUTY ITS ANTIQUITY — PROME- 
NADE ON ITS OLD AND BEAUTIFUL WALL — ROMAN 

STONE COFFINS OLD PLACES — OLD CHURCH HIDDEN 

IN A CITY MAGNIFICENT OLD YORK MINSTER; A 

WINDOW FOUR HUNDRED YEARS OLD MAKES THE SUN 
PAINT RARE PICTURES, "WORTH A KINGDOM;" COV- 
ERS TWO THOUSAND FOUR HUNDRED AND FIFTY-SIX 

SQUARE FEET — A TALL STONE LADDER ANGEL 

TONES CHOIR UNIFORMED — HISTORY OF THE CA- 
THEDRAL ON THROUGH YORKSHIRE HIGHLANDS 

GROUSE ON PURPLE HEATHER — RIVER ESK COUSIN 

JOHN WEARS LIVERY WHITBY COUSIN EDWARD 

ONE LINSKILL HIGH CLIFF WHITE WAVES DIE AT 

THE FEET OF BEAUTY AND INNOCENCE THE PANO- 
RAMIC SEA — GRANDPARENTS' GRAVES NEAR GREAT 
COLUMNS AND ARCHES IN RUINS. 

After leaving Leeds, the railroad runs through a 
beautiful agricultural country till we arrive at York, 
and many fields of wheat, oats, barley, peas and tur- 
nips are seen. Although it is August first, and after 
a dry, hot summer, the wheat is not yet ripe. I 
noticed a field of oats here and there which was ripe 
and, at least, partially in shock. 



84 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

The city of York, which has about 70,000 inhabit- 
ants, is one of the most ancient cities in England. 
Perhaps the most modern thing in York is the very 
large and handsome railroad station with its iron col- 
umns, and arches, and glass roof, covering perhaps 
three acres of ground. Near this fine station may be 
seen the old wall of ancient York, with its battlements,, 
running along on the eminence of a green, well-kept 
mound. The wall is from ten to fifteen feet high and 
is of light, gray stone. It is about two feet thick at 
the top, and inside there is another wall or walk of 
from four to six feet wide, which is now used as a 
promenade, and one may look through the battle- 
ments or open places on the wall, where in days long 
past the soldiers stood and cast their arrows, lances 
and stones at besieging armies. The wall is kept in 
good order by the city. The wall encloses but a 
small portion of the present city, and the old gates or 
bars, as they are called, are quite imposing stone tow- 
ers, arching the streets at three or four different 
places. 

York Minster, one of the oldest and grandest ca- 
thedrals in England, is here, and is visited by thous- 
ands of people from all over the world. I went 
through the building from the crypt to the top of the 
great tower. I heard the chimes, and the very sweet 
singing and chanting by the choristers at time of ser- 
vice, and saw the magnificent colored glass windows. 
I also went into ancient towers and churches and saw 
many old relics of times long past, such as the ruins 
of St. Mary's Abbey, the old Roman Tower and the 



YORK AND WHITBY. 85 

great number of Roman sarcophagi, or stone cof- 
fins, weighing perhaps two or three tons each. While 
visiting the Museum of Antiquities, Roman relics, and 
so forth, my attention was called to liberal folds of 
dark, flowing hair, which had ornamented the head of 
a young lady about 1600 years ago. 

As Edward and I strolled through a quaint old 
street in York, we came where an old house was 
built, from the second story, out over the sidewalk. 
While we looked at it a young lady (Miss Outhwaite, 
yes, I remember, it was in Goodramgate street,) came 
out to hang up a show-case of plain needle-work and 
I asked her if she could tell how old the building 
was. She replied, " Probably two or three hundred 
years; one family has owned it one hundred and 
fifty years." "Indeed! Thank you." She continued, 
41 There is an old church in the rear of these houses; 
it is very old and interesting; they have services in it 
but three times a year; if you would like to see it you 
may pass through our house, as our's is the only one 
on the street with a back door leading to it." "Thank 
you !" Edward and I passed through the humble store, 
through sitting-room, through kitchen, and came to 
the open, or rather the enclosed square, and tomb- 
stones confronted us at once. Cousin Edward, in tell- 
ing his wife of our little adventure, said, "The tomb- 
stones were so near the back door, that the people 
dried their dish-cloths on them." I had not noticed 
this, all of which proves that I am not observing, as 
I have so frequently remarked. 



86 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

The church was walled in by houses on all sides, 
and I was told there were but two or three doors 
leading to it. It was very old, say six hundred years, 
very unique, and interesting, with stained glass win- 
dows, altars, high pulpit, and galleries, and high 
box-pews. 

The guide-book says of this edifice : " Holy Trinity, 
Goodramgate, appears to be of very great antiquity ; 
principally decorated, but with a perpendicular tower. 
The chantry on the south side is decorated. In the 
large east window is some excellent glass, date about 
1450 — 80, representing various saints and evangelists, 
the Holy Family, the Virgin and Child, St. Ursula and 
her Companions." Not far away, in the city, we found 
people who had not heard of it, nor seen it. This is 
the only church I have seen literally hidden in the 
heart of a city. 

This city is one of such great beauty and antiquity 
and so full of rare relics that I will devote a little 
space in trying to describe it. The guide-book says, 
" It was a flourishing place about two thousand years 
ago." Here soldiers, politicians, priests, poets, artists, 
architects and farmers contended for love, for money 
and for supremacy, a thousand years before Columbus 
was born. The Cathedral, or "Minster," as it is call- 
ed, is one of the oldest, grandest and largest places of 
worship in England. I saw its most magnificent east 
window of rare old stained glass, put in four hundred 
years ago, over seventy-seven feet high and thirty-two 
broad, worth a kingdom, and could not now be dupli- 
cated. I walked up more than two hundred feet 



YORK AND WHITBY. 87 

through narrow, dark stairways cut in rock, and stood 
on the lead roof and gazed down on the rare and 
beautiful old city framed in green, level farms, while 
the gleaming Ouse wended its way to the sea Oh, 
see the beautiful light-colored wall as it winds up and 
down to surround the older portion of the city! 
What a place for lovers to promenade ! Oh, hear the 
chime of the rich-toned old bells! Can angel tones 
be more charming? Father, I do not wonder that 
you often spoke of York and its " fine old cathedral !" 

I shall try to describe the other cathedrals and 
palaces I see in my own language, but for lack of 
time to do this one justice, let me take the following 
pages from a guide-book : 

SHORT HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL. 

The first building for the purpose of Christian 
worship on this ground was of wood, erected by Ed- 
win, King of Northumbria, in 627, who, on Easter 
Monday, was publicly baptized by Paulinus, a Roman 
missionary, afterwards first Archbishop of York. Ed- 
win commenced a church of stone, which was destroyed 
soon after its completion by Penda the Pagan, and 
again thoroughly restored by Oswald. About this 
time the revenues of the church were considerably in- 
creased by a munificent donation of territory made 
by Ulphus, Prince of Deira, now the East Riding. 
His horn, given at the same time as a pledge, may still 
be seen in one of the vestries. In 660, the Minster, 
having again become very dilapidated, was repaired 
by Archbishop Wilfrid, and the windows glazed. 



88 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

Some years later, being nearly burnt to the ground, it 
was re-built in the finest style of Saxon architecture 
by Archbishop Albert. Guthrum, a Danish monarch, 
who reigned seventy years in York, embraced Christ- 
ianity upon his defeat by the Saxons, and was baptized 
in the Cathedral, Alfred the Great standing as sponsor, 
and giving him the name of Athelstane. From this 
chieftain, Goodramgate, the site of his palace, takes 
its name. At the time of the Conquest the Cathedral 
was again destroyed by fire, and re-built in the Norman 
style on a larger scale by Archbishop Thomas, in 1080. 
After another conflagration in Stephen's reign, Arch- 
bishop Roger re-built the choir in the same style to 
correspond with the rest of the building. The present 
erection dates from 121 5, when the south transept was 
begun and finished by Archbishop Walter de Grey. 
The north transept was the work of John le Romayne, 
treasurer to the Cathedral ; his son, Archbishop le 
Romayne, laid the foundation stone of the nave, which, 
with the magnificent west front, was completed by 
Archbishop Melton. Then followed the building of 
the choir by Archbishop Thoresby, succeeded by the 
the erection of the western towers, and completion of 
the entire edifice as it now stands in 1472, having 
occupied about 244 years from first to last. At the 
Reformation, forty chantries were suppressed. During 
the Commonwealth a large quantity of the ancient 
stained glass was demolished. The pavement in the 
nave was laid down so recently as 1736, by the Earl 
of Burlington. On the 2d February, 1829, a fanatical 
cobbler, and brother of Martin, the painter, made his 



YORK AND WHITBY. 89 

attempt to fire the Minster, and succeeded in com- 
pletely gutting the choir, which was restored at a cost 
of ^65,000. Another fire occurred on the 14th May, 
1840, through the carelessness of a workman, in 
which the southwest tower and roof of the nave 
were entirely destroyed. Three years afterwards, up- 
on its restoration, a new peal of bells was hung in 
this tower; and in 1845, the monster bell, " Big Peter," 
was placed in its fellow on the northwest. Since i86o t 
through the liberality of the late Dean Duncombe, 
and by means of public subscriptions, the following 
improvements have been effected : — The organ on the 
screen remodeled, the chapter-house restored exter- 
nally, the nave furnished with a new organ and seats, 
both choir and nave lighted with gas from the cleres- 
tory, and the interior of the south transept completely 
restored. 

Description. — Exterior-. — The Cathedral is of mag- 
nesian limestone; cruciform, and of many styles of 
architecture, from early Saxon to the late Perpendicu- 
lar. Approaching it by way of Duncombe street we 
have a magnificent view of this stupendous pile, the 
western front and towers enriched with great profuse- 
ness of ornament, in the foreground. Round the 
deeply recessed doorway the story of our first parents 
in Eden is elaborately sculptured. Of the three stat- 
ues, that in the centre niche, is Archbishop Melton, in 
whose time the front was completed ; the other two 
represent a Percy on the north and a Vavasour on the 
south, each holding pieces of stone in their hands, as 
a memorial of having contributed that material from 



90 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

their quarries for the erection of the building. Pass- 
ing round to the north side, which we find very plain 
and devoid of ornament, we arrive at the north tran- 
sept with its light and chastely shaped window known 
as the "Five Sisters." Next comes the octagonal 
chapter-house, and then the choir, remarkable for its 
two small transepts (north and south) which are 
pierced by windows on three sides in each case; the 
clerestory lights are guarded by a stone screen of a 
light and elegant character. This feature of transepts 
in the choir is not found in any other cathedral. The 
great east window is glazed outside with thick semi- 
opaque glass in order to protect the rich colored work 
within. Beneath is a row of heads, the Saviour in 
the centre, with six apostles on each side; at the apex 
of the window is the figure of Archbishop Thoresby 
holding a model of the Minster — this eastern portion 
of which he built. The south side is similar to the 
north, but disfigured in the 14th century by the erec- 
tion of some low buildings, now used as vestries. The 
south transept is the oldest part of the Minster, and 
in the gable is the magnificent rose window, above 
which on the summit, is a crocketed pinnacle. The 
dimensions are as follows : — 

ft. in. 

Nave height 99 6 

Width 139 6 

Choir .... height 98 6 



ft. in. 

Extreme l'gth, E. to W. 519 o 

Transepts, extreme l'gth, 

north to south . . 249 o 

Width, with aisles . . 117 o 

East End .... width 129 o 

West End . . . .width 140 o 

Chapter-house. . height 67 10 

Width 99 o 



Width 129 O 

Great Tower . . height 213 o 

Width 65 o 

West Towers . . height 201 o 

Width 32 o 



YORK AND WHITBY. 9 1 

Interior. — Entering the building by the south 
doorway (underneath the rose window), it consists of 
four principal divisions, viz.: Nave and choir forming 
the length of the cross, and the two transepts the 
arms. Each of these divisions again has a large cen- 
tral part or nave, and two side aisles. In the south 
transept is the beautiful monumental tomb of Arch- 
bishop Walter de Grey, said to be the finest specimen 
of canopied work in existence. The rose window, 
and the four stained windows below it, should also be 
noticed. With the exception of Ely and St. Paul's, 
the nave of York is the largest in the kingdom ; the 
capitals of the columns in this part are particularly 
rich in ornament, and the west window, considered 
the finest known example of the decorated style, is 
filled with figures of archbishops, saints and represen- 
tations of the resurrection of our Lord, and the coro- 
nation of the Virgin, the date of the workmanship 
being 1 330-1 350. The " Five Sisters" window, look- 
ing like a piece of fine lace work, so intricate is the 
design, and unequalled for its noble proportions and 
quiet simplicity, is the special feature in the north 
transept. In the corner to the right is the entrance to 
the chapter-house, containing beautifully stained glass 
windows, and numerous specimens of grotesque carv- 
ing. In the choir, all the beautiful effects obtained by 
grandeur of conception, united to minuteness of de- 
tail, appear concentrated, the wondrous east window 
forming a fitting climax to the whole. In the aisles 
north and south of the choir, and in the Lady chapel, 
are a great number of monuments, principally of mil- 



92 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

itary men and ecclesiastics. The remains of the 
earliest foundations, Saxon and Norman, are still 
easily discernable in the crypt under the choir. In 
the Zouch chapel and vestries a collection of curiosi- 
ties of great historical value is preserved, the most 
remarkable being the horn of Ulphus, virtually the 
title deed by which the dean and chapter hold sev- 
eral of their estates. The organ screen, crowned by 
one of the largest and most complete instruments in 
Europe, is a wondrous work in sculptured stone, con- 
taining statues of fifteen kings of England, commenc- 
ing with the conqueror, and several smaller musical 
figures, termed the "celestial choir." The peal of 
bells consists of twelve, of dimensions varying from 
two and one-half to five and one-half feet in height, 
and weighing from seven to fifty -four hundredweight. 
"Big Peter" is seven feet two inches high, eight feet 
four inches in diameter, weighs ten tons fifteen hun- 
dred weight, and is, with two exceptions, the largest 
bell in England. Dimensions externally — 

ft. in. I ft. in. 

Extreme length .... 483 o | Chapter-house . . diam. 63 o 

Nave length 264 o Height 67 o 

Width 103 o ' Great Tower . . diam. 44 9 

Height 96 o Height 180 o 

Choir length 156 6 Organ Screen . . length 50 o 

Width 52 o I Height 24 o 

Height 101 o I East Window . . height 76 9 



Lady Chapel 66 6 

Height 101 o 

Width 52 9 

North Transept . length 96 6 

Width 94 6 

South Transept . length 104 6 

Width 93 o 



Width 

West window . . height 54 6 

Width 25 6 

" Five Sisters" . height 53 6 

Each width .... 5 o 

East End .... width 99 6 

West End . . . width 109 o 

Rose Window . . diam. 30 o 



YORK AND WHITBY. 93 

Visitors are conducted through the building by 
the vergers during stated hours, at a charge of six- 
pence each person. The ascent to the top of the cen- 
tral tower, 212 feet high, is sixpence extra. 

Leaving York, I ride fifty-six miles to Whitby, 
which lies on the North sea, on the northeastern 
coast of England. The railroad runs through a 
beautiful green and level country for about half the 
distance, when it begins to wind between high hills 
or moors. The dark green heather is beginning to 
blossom out into its delicate purple or pinkish dress. 
For many miles we run through the Yorkshire high- 
lands, following streams of water up and then follow- 
ing others down. Here and there is a quiet little 
nook or pass in the hills, and there you will see a lonely- 
looking little stone house with a small barn and a 
few trees and shrubbery near. Away off, on the tops 
of these dark hills or knolls, the hunter loves to shoot 
the moor-grouse. 

Now we come to the head of the river Esk, which 
runs into Whitby harbor. At Grosmont we go down 
a heavy grade, soon we come to Sleight's station, a 
cool, pleasant village between the well-tilled and lofty 
hills. Here I met cousin John, as station-master. I 
had time to shake his hand for the first time and say 
a few words, and off we went, through Ruswarp, and 
now we enter the covered station at Whitby. Engineers- 
and railroad men had said, " Yes, we know Edward 
Linskill, he has been an engineer on this road for 
many years;" and, when we stepped on the platform^ 
an employee said, "There is your cousin, looking for 



94 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

you," and soon we cousins, who had never met, were 
embracing each other in my father's native town. 

Cousin Edward carried one of my bags, and a 
porter looked after my trunk, and so we wended our 
way through the narrow, winding, and clean, busy 
streets of dear old Whitby, until we arrived on West 
Cliff, the most pleasant and modern portion of the 
place. Now, I have the pleasure of taking cousin's 
wife and daughter by the hand, and they give me a 
hearty welcome. Cousin's wife is a plump little Eng- 
lishwoman, with red cheeks, with dark hair, and bright 
eyes; her hands and feet are busy, and so is her 
tongue, at times. Their daughter, May, is a pleasant- 
looking and intelligent young lady, having some cul- 
ture in music, painting, short-hand writing, and house- 
keeping. I could not help thinking it strange that 
there is but one male Linskill to be found in this old 
town where the Linskills have lived for hundreds of 
years. The name appears in the earliest official rec- 
ords of the place. 

Whitby is an old seaport town, at the mouth of 
the river Esk, and contains 14,000 inhabitants. The 
cliffs along the sea are over two hundred feet high, 
and where the Esk comes down and breaks through 
into the sea, the valley is very narrow, and so the 
town has been terraced up the cliffs until the west side 
of the town extends over upon the level or high table- 
land. 

I wish all our readers could stand for awhile on 
West Cliff and see the white waves die out on the sands 
near the feet of a thousand or two of children and 



YORK AND WHITBY. 95 

women and men gaily dressed. These are chiefly 
visitors who have come from London and elsewhere 
to breathe this fresh, cool sea air for a few days or 
weeks. Now, look off on the sea and see scores of 
sailing ships and fishing-boats, and perhaps five or ten 
steamers, some of them large, going north or south. 

What a panorama is the sea! always changing, 
like a kaleidoscope. Now, look and see the white 
stone piers that run out into the sea for more than a 
thousand feet at each side of the harbor. These piers 
nearly always are gay with promenaders. See the fish 
boats come in with their cargoes that have cost a hard 
night's work. Across there, half a mile away, on the 
East Cliff, you see the ruins of St. Hilda's Abbey, one 
of the grandest and oldest ruins in England. See the 
lofty arches, and columns, and walls, and great masses 
of masonry that have fallen generations ago. 

Near the Abbey ruin stands a quaint old stone 
church surrounded by an acre or two of old, dark- 
gray tombstones. This church is very ancient and of 
unique structure inside, and contains the ashes of some 
notable persons of this region. Near one of its doors 
lie the bones of my grandfather and mother. This 
cliff, to the church, is reached by climbing one hun- 
dred and ninety-nine stone steps, but as it is mail 
time, and Cook's guide and four-in-hand are about 
ready to drive me and my friends around great, grand, 
beautiful and wonderful Paris, I will close and write 
more of Whitby, Birmingham and London another 
time. Written at Paris, August 29, 1887. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

WHITBY, JET, WHALING, SHIPS, ETC. 

A CLEFT CLIFF — HOUSES HANGING ON ROCKS ABOVE 
SHIPS RED TILES NARROW STREETS THE MARKET- 
PLACE STRAWBERRIES IN AUGUST FISHWOMEN 

TONS OF FISH GASPING ON GRANITE PAVEMENTS, AND 

BURIED IN SALT AND ICE ELEGANT WEST CLIFF 

LONDON VISITORS COLD MANY SHIPS A WALK 

WITH EDWARD — SHIP-BUILDING WINDMILL — BY 

THE SEA UNCLE JAMES A RAILWAY ON TALL, IRON 

STILTS ABOVE A GRANITE HAMLET, AND HAY-MAKERS 
BY THE CHAPEL A WALK WITH FRIEND WADDING- 
TON HIS VARIED AND AGREEABLE ATTAINMENTS A 

WALKING AND FREE LIBRARY CAPTAIN COOK — HIL- 
DA'S FINE RUINS ANCIENT CHURCH — HUMBLE ELL- 
IOT WRESTED A TITLE FROM FATE AND ROYALTY 

A FEAST AT A SALOON IN A CLIFF MEN GONE DOWN 

TO THE SEA TO TAKE WHALES, FISH, GOLD, AND KING- 
DOMS — JAW-BONES OF WHALES SET UP FOR GARDEN 
AND FARM GATES ALUM JET-WORKS AND JET- 
WORKERS WHEN THE LORDLY DIE, JET-DEALERS 

THRIVE. 

Whitby, as I have already mentioned, is in a very 
narrow valley, where the Esk, a small river, cuts 
through a high cliff, on its way to the sea. The har- 



WHITBY, JET, WHALING, SHIPS, ETC. 97 

bor is not large, but it is protected by a pier on the 
west and one on the east. The valley along the river 
and piers, between the high cliffs, is literally crowded 
with houses, as are also the sides of the cliffs. The 
houses, many of them, have an ancient look and are 
roofed with red corrugated tiles. The sides of the 
cliff are irregularly terraced, and the houses rise one 
above the other to the top of the cliffs, and many nar- 
row and winding walks go up between and around 
the houses, especially on the west side. 

The streets along the river are very narrow and 
full of curves and angles, but are kept clean, and 
crowds of orderly, well-dressed people, especially on 
market days, are met, and they walk in the middle of 
the streets as well as on the pavements, which are in 
many places but two or three feet wide. The scenes 
in the market are interesting to a stranger. Here, in 
August, I saw the strawberries and vegetables that we 
would see in Wilkes-Barre in June. 

Along the pier, a morning after the fish boats 
come in, an interesting and busy scene is presented, 
for here cart loads of herring, cod, ling, etc., are hoist- 
ed out of the boats, and while fish-women bear off a 
portion of them in baskets, on their heads, crying — 
" Fi-sh, fi-sh, nice fresh fi-sh, any herring? any f-i-s-h," 
others are laid out in rows on the stones or packed in 
barrels and boxes, in ice or salt, to be sent away to 
London and other cities. I am informed that as many 
as thirty thousand tons of herrings have been caught 
here in one season. 

(7) 



98 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

I have found, thanks to cousin Edward's wife, that 
herring right out of the clean sea, most skillfully- 
cooked, are very palatable. In the steep, narrow 
streets you will frequently see donkeys laden with two 
large milk cans, one on each side, and often led by 
some young boy who is proud of the chance to show 
his governing powers. 

A stranger is much surprised to see the fine plate- 
glass fronts, and the finely filled shop and store win- 
dows in streets so narrow. I think that I have men- 
tioned that on West Cliff the town is quite new and 
modern, and numbers of quite fine, large houses 
stand here along streets reasonably broad. In this 
quarter the visitors from London and inland cities 
chiefly locate for some weeks of summer, say August 
and September. 

I may here mention that hundreds of visitors come 
here each summer to enjoy the almost unequaled 
scenery and sea air on these cliffs, and also take en- 
chanting drives or walks up the Esk valley and other 
pleasant little vales just back from the sounding sea. 
I could wear an overcoat nearly any August day on 
the high, breezy cliff overlooking the sea, and below 
on the sands were hundreds of people sitting, lying 
or walking, while others were bathing, and all the 
time sail-ships and steamers were passing north and 
south. These visitors or sojourners, as a rule, hire a 
house, or portion of a house, already furnished, and 
either run it themselves or engage with the house- 
owner or housekeeper to do the cooking and serving 
generally. 



WHITBY, JET, WHALING, SHIPS, ETC. 99 

Whitby, at the last census, showed a population of 
14,000. Walking, with cbusin Edward, through the 
streets and out on the west pier, which runs nearly a 
fourth of a mile into the sea, many pleasing features 
are noticed. We meet many old men among the 
eighties, and some of them remember my father, and 
say, "Aye, I knew 'im; 'e was a tailor." Here is the 
public house, named "Nelson's Flag," near the pier, 
where my father lived, when a lad, with his parents. 
Here is the little terrace, where father was born. 
Here is the turn-bridge, where the old draw-bridge of 
my father's time used to be, and where crowds used to 
collect while ships passed. 

We passed by the ship-yard, where men were 
engaged in building a steel ship of three hundred feet 
in length. A number of retired sailors were met here, 
and affable, intelligent men they are. We passed along 
the top of the cliff, near the old windmill, on our way 
to Sandsend, nearly three miles north of Whitby, 
where I found my uncle, James Linskill, a man eighty 
years of age. He was very ill, and said I had only 
come just in time. (He died two weeks after I left 
England, to return home.) He looked much as my 
father did, and his mind seemed as clear and active 
as ever. He had been, they say, a very steady, indus- 
trious, and economical man, and filled, for nearly forty 
years, a responsible position as station-master for a 
railway company, and, when he left the office, his son 
took the place. He distinctly remembered the day, in 
the summer of 18 15, when Whitby rejoiced over the 
downfall of Napoleon at Waterloo. 



IOO IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

Sandsend is a very quaint and pleasant little ham- 
let, in a small ravine, or gap, in the tall cliff; on one 
side the sea breaks, white and musically, on the sand, 
while, a few rods up the vale, over which a great 
railway leaps on tall, iron pillars, some men are build- 
ing a hay-stack, and a neat little church gives sanctuary 
to the few worshipers that the sweet-toned bell called 
together. We return to Whitby by the railway, which 
runs along on top of cliffs, and occasionally passes over 
a deep ravine, on lofty iron columns. 

At Whitby I met George W. Waddington, a man of 
varied attainments, a good and edifying companion, 
one who has seen much of life in England, South 
America, and California nearly forty years ago. His 
reminiscences of California, while they possess the 
attraction of intense fiction, have the advantage of 
being literally true and historical. Here he is known 
as an antiquarian, or, rather, a genealogist, for he is 
well versed in the origin and history of very many 
people and family names in the great county of York- 
shire and other portions of England. He is a gen- 
eral favorite and a regular walking and almost abso- 
lutely free library. I know of no other man so 
conversant with thousands of names. I went to the 
East Cliff with him one afternoon, and on the way he 
pointed out where Captain Cook, the circumnavigator, 
had lodged, and where my uncle Thomas had built 
houses and lived for years. When we came to 
the old church on the hill, which is still used, and 
which dates back hundreds of years, and which has a 
good chime of bells, his words among its ancient col- 



WHITBY, JET, WHALING, SHIPS, ETC. 10 1 

umns and monuments were full of instruction. We 
also wandered about the extensive ruins of St. Hilda's 
Abbey. 

I went with cousin Edward to the Saloon, at West 
Cliff, where Sir George Elliott has terraced and beau- 
tified the cliff, and erected a spacious and comfortable 
building for the purposes of refreshments, music, din- 
ing, dancing, fairs, festivals, etc. We were there on 
the occasion of a fair and dinner in the interest of 
the Brunswick Wesleyan Chapel, and I will say that 
no dinner at Paris pleased me more. 

Sir George Elliott is an enterprising and popular 
man of much wealth, who has, by great energy, risen 
from a lowly origin. He owns considerable property, 
in good buildings, on stately West Cliff, where many 
visitors love to reside, promenade, and rejoice, and 
recuperate for a while. The saloon grounds, above 
mentioned, are at the top and on the face of the cliff, 
and are enclosed, and can only be entered by the pay- 
ment of a small fee. Of course, I have been in a 
hundred much finer places free of charge. These 
grounds embrace but a small portion of the cliff view. 

This old town was famous in past years as a ship- 
building town, where hundreds of men went down to 
the sea in ships to do business on great and distant 
waters. From this old place many ships went into 
the northern ocean to capture great whales, and force 
them to surrender up tons of whalebone and thous- 
ands of barrels of fine and superfine oils, to light the 
miner and the mariner, the cottager and the palace- 
dweller. Here, also, sailed out many quaint and curious 



102 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

crafts into the waters of the North sea, and after a 
dark night of work on the waves, they came back 
laden with bright, fresh herring, cod, haddock, soles, 
eels, ling, etc. 

Here, many good, stout, wooden ships were built, 
which went out to various parts of the world, for 
merchandise and pleasure. There are still standing 
in Yorkshire the jaw-bones of whales, which were set 
up many years ago for gate posts and archways; 
some of their jaw-bones were so immense as to stride 
wagons loaded with hay. I did not see this, but was 
told it by the most worthy people ; but I saw those 
at dooryard gates. Formerly alum was made here, 
and in the vicinity, in large quantity. 

Here, also, the manufacture of jet jewelry and orna- 
ments was carried to great perfection, and many 
women and men were engaged in the business ; some 
as miners and laborers, others as designers, choppers 
out, grinders, polishers, carvers, engravers and sales- 
men. The jet found here is the hardest and best in 
the world; in fact, it is so superior to the jet found in 
Spain and France, that the latter can hardly be called 
jet. Jet, as its name signifies, is a black, coal-like 
substance which admits of fine carving and a brilliant 
polish. Whitby jet ornaments are famous the world 
over. Years ago there were many factories running- 
here, but now there are comparatively few engaged in 
the business. 

I visited the factories of Charles and Thomas 
Bryan, and saw the work going on in all its stages. 
They were courteous, and permitted the workmen to 



WHITBY, JET, WHALING, SHIPS, ETC. IO3 

make mementos for me. The operations are inter- 
esting in all the stages, from the rough material to the 
polished necklace. The trade, owing to foreign jet of 
an inferior quality being used, is not flourishing at 
present. Some years ago, when the Duke of Well- 
ington died, and later, when the Prince Consort died, 
the business had great booms, and some dealers who 
were favorably circumstanced date the permanent es- 
tablishment of their business from those periods of 
general mourning. 



CHAPTER IX. 

LONDON: GREAT AND BEAUTIFUL THINGS. 

HEART OF ENGLAND LEAMINGTON WARWICKSHIRE 

OXFORD — WISDOM CROWNS WASTING STONE ON TO 

LONDON SIXTY-THREE MILES IN SEVENTY-FIVE MIN- 
UTES SUBURBS OF THE GREAT CITY PADDINGTON'S 

GREAT STATION HOUSE OF PARLIAMENT — CHAMBER 

OF COMMONS — MUSIC WEDDED TO TIME SIR JOHN 

PURLESTON HOUSE OF LORDS WESTMINSTER ABBEY 

COUSINS FOUND — TRAFALGAR SQUARE NATIONAL 

ART GALLERY — THE "WILD WEST" BLANKETED 

INDIANS UNDER STARS AND STRIPES IN THE WORLD'S 

LARGEST CITY AWFUL LIGHTNING AND THUNDER 

BUFFALO BILL, WHILE GALLOPING, SHATTERS GLIT- 
TERING BALLS AMID LIGHTNING AND FALLING RAIN 

"BROTHER JONATHAN" AND "JOHNNY BULL" CONTEND- 
ING AMID CLASHING ELEMENTS, ETC. 

It would take too many columns now to tell how 
I traveled down through the green, shady heart of old 
England, to the world's metropolis, but I will try to 
do so later. At bright, beautiful Leamington I 
found a cousin, and we visited wonderful Warwick, 
and quaint, old Coventry, and dear, cool, green, 
"Stratford-on-Avon." Pleasant days were those! 

Enroute for London, I stopped at old Oxford, the 
city of ancient colleges, where Wisdom lifts up her 



LONDON: GREAT AND BEAUTIFUL THINGS. IO5 

voice from the top of many a gray stone column, spire 
and dome ; where the tooth of Time has eaten deep 
furrows in hard stone, — stone and granite created by 
the "ancient of days," which skillful, pains-taking and 
honest men chiseled and laid up hundreds of years 
ago. I asked a man near the' station, " What do you 
do here?" and he answered, "We make Parsons." 
After I had walked around and through a score of 
great, gray, old colleges, with their chimes, clocks, 
columns, arcades, porticos, courts, libraries, and halls 
of art, learning, antiquities, and halls for dining, I saw 
plainly the character of the city, and concluded there 
was but one Oxford on earth. They pointed out a 
place in the street where men had been burned, ages 
ago, for their religious faith. 

Sometime I must try to tell you how I went from 
Oxford to London that pleasant afternoon. How we 
galloped, how we rushed, how we whizzed the sixty- 
three miles in seventy-five minutes. How we leaped 
green-banked canals and willowed rivers, and darted 
through broad meadows, where fat cattle and sheep 
lay content; through fine fields of wheat, barley, oats, 
peas and beans; by great towns and smoky cities, so 
rapidly that we could not read the boldly painted 
name of the station; on by the hedges, which look 
like smooth ribbons of satin ; on through regions of 
brick kilns. 

At length we come where beautiful mansions stand 
on shady hills, and in sunny vales, and now long rows 
of neat, new tenements, stand like an army speaking 
for peace and prosperity. A few miles farther, and 



106 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

our noble engine draws us into the great railway sta- 
tion at Paddington, not many miles from the heart of 
great London. 

The station is a great building of stone, with iron 
and glass roof, with room for many trains to come and 
go at once. Just read the signs: "In," "Out," 
" Booking Office," " Cloak Room," " Left Luggage," 
"Refreshments," "This Way Out," "Gentlemen," 
"General Waiting Room," "First Class Ticket Office," 
"Second Class Ticket Office," "Ladies' First Class 
Waiting Room," " Station Master's Office," " Cross 
the Lines by the Subway," etc. Similar rooms and 
offices are on each side, and the great stone platforms 
are about level with the car doors, which are all along 
the side of the train, and fifty people may at once step 
into the fifty open doors. The doors are marked in 
plain letters, "First," "Second," "Third," denoting 
the class, and you enter the class for which you have 
a ticket. It is near 5 o'clock, and I have a ticket to 
the Speaker's gallery in the House of Parliament. So 
I leave my largest bag at the cloak-room, take a re- 
ceipt on paper, pay two-pence, (four cents.) Looking 
around, I find I am a good way from the House of 
Parliament, and am told to take the under-ground line 
to Westminster Bridge. 

I wend my way down under-ground, pay two or 
three pence, and away we go into the dark caverns 
under the busy and crowded streets of the old city. 
Trains flash by, and we stop now and then at a station; 
a shrill whistle, in the mouth of the master, sounds, 
and away we go. Now, on the lamp-globes in the 



LONDON: GREAT AND BEAUTIFUL THINGS. IO7 

station, I read, " Westminster Bridge." I go out and 
pass upward through a gate-way, and give up my 
ticket, and come out upon the pavements crowded 
with people going to and fro, while the streets are full 
of cabs, carriages, omnibuses, etc. Handsomely uni- 
formed policemen stand at the corners to keep order 
and help pedestrians to cross the streets. Right in 
front, across the street, stands a gray stone building of 
vast extent and graceful proportions. In the massive 
and lofty tower is the largest clock-face I ever saw, 
thirty feet across it, and, as it is six o'clock, I hear 
sweet music fall out of the sky, and the bells chime, 
one, two, three, four ; one, two, three, four ; four times 
over, and then we hear six loud, soft tolls of the bell. 
This most magnificent building is the House of Par- 
liament, where England's law-makers, born and elect- 
ed, assemble to transact business of state. It stands 
on the banks of the famous Thames (temz), where his- 
torical things have had birth for two thousand years. 
And here is Westminster Bridge, across the Thames, 
a grand and substantial structure. There are many 
bridges over the Thames, and strong stone and iron 
ones they are, too. They are free, and broad, and would, 
probably, bear up a million tons. This fine building 
is hundreds of feet long, and would require about a 
half mile walk to go around it. The towers are lofty 
and very elaborate. Having a pass, which cousin Ed- 
ward and Mr. Nicholson secured for me, through their 
member for Whitby, I enter the House of Commons. 
I enter a great doorway, and go through a hall, and 
up a flight of broad steps, into another great, lofty 



108 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

hall, where the light falls like lovely angels through 
colored glass. Almost every step is guarded by door- 
keepers and guards, who ask your business. In this 
large hall stand marble likenesses of England's great 
men on massive pedestals. Going up more steps, I 
enter a great circular hall, with lofty and finely orna- 
mented ceiling, and the columns surrounding it have 
niches, one above the other, in which stand, say, sixty 
statues of famous people of the past. Here stand 
many doorkeepers in fine uniforms, some of them busy 
examining cards and letters. A crowd are waiting to 
go into the Chamber of Commons, which is in session. 
We, or some of us, pass the guards and go along an- 
other hall, where, in large panels, are painted some of 
the important events of English history. Then up a 
stairway, and we sit down on a well-cushioned seat in 
the Speaker's Gallery, and gaze down on a finely fur- 
nished room of say 60x90 feet. The chief points I 
remember are the handsome and elaborate carvings in 
dark, old oak, and the fine, soft light coming down 
through glass in the ceiling from gas jets. The 
speaker and his associates wore long, white wigs. I 
was impressed with the slow, studied, business-like 
words and delivery of the speakers, — not much in the 
manner, but much in the words. I could not hear all 
that was said, yet I was glad to hear they were dis- 
cussing safety-lamps, and were interested in the subject 
of preserving the life of the poor laboring man. 

After an hour or two I went out, and as I was en- 
tering a clean, light restaurant-room, a pleasant-looking 
woman, dressed neatly in black, asked me to take her 



LONDON: GREAT AND BEAUTIFUL THINGS. IO9. 

in to supper, but she was dressed too well, I thought, 
to be really in need of a supper, and I said, " No !" 
She followed me in, and I said "No" two or three 
times before she departed. My first night in London ! 
Yes, "Alone in London." A policeman pointed out a 
public house, in King's street, where I staid all night, 
and the people were as kind and neighborly as Wilkes- 
Barre people could be. 

Every fifteen minutes, when awake, I heard the 
music of the bells in the tower of the House of Par- 
liament, tolling the time. It seemed more like rejoic- 
ing at the birth of new time, than tolling the death 
of past or dead time. At a later day I handed Sir 
John Puleston, member of the House of Commons, a 
letter from Hon. L. D. Shoemaker, whom he remem- 
bered along with other Wyoming valley people, and 
he was apparently pleased that he was remembered 
west of the Atlantic, and he said, " I am as much 
American as any of you." He also said, " I am sorry 
you did not give this to me sooner, then I could have 
given you a seat to hear Mr. Gladstone to-morrow > 
but now every seat is engaged. He also said, " I 
would have given more than one five dollar bill to 
have had you admitted." I thanked him, saying, 
"It's all right, it was my oversight." He took me in- 
to the House of Lords, and pointed out the Prime 
Minister, and the Lord Chancellor sitting on the wool- 
sack with white wig, etc., looking ancient and digni- 
fied. He also took me to other parts of the building, 
which is about as beautiful as marble, and gold, and 
glass, and oak, and silk, and leather, can make it. 



I IO IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

Near this grand building stands the very ancient, 
beautiful, and historical "Westminster Abbey," the 
burial place of English kings and queens, and some 
great men. A guide took us all through this ancient 
cathedral and tomb, which is so crowded with lofty 
columns, and arches, and statues, and monuments of 
strange and beautiful forms ; but I must leave a more 
detailed account to another time. 

I traveled many miles through the crowded streets 
before I came to cousin John Linskill's, at Brixton. 
He is a dealer in jet jewelry. Then I went to the Ely 
place, near the Holborn Viaduct, where I found cousin 
Henry and his wife. Henry is an expert carver and 
finisher in jet ornaments. In the afternoon Henry 
said, " Let us go." We went out to grand, busy Hol- 
born street, and ran up to the top of a " 'bus," and 
thus we went to " Trafalgar Square." A granite paved 
square, almost surrounded by granite palaces, where 
Nelson's lofty column stands, and many famous men 
stand in marble, on solid pedestals, and where granite 
lions, and sea monsters, throw rivers of sparkling 
waters into the air. 

We went into the national art gallery here, and 
saw hundreds of fine paintings immortalizing famous 
scenes of love, of friendship, of genius, of natural 
scenery, of mythology, and of blood-red war on 
plains, on mountains, in cities, and on the billowy sea. 
There was a wealth of them. Henry said, " Would 
you like to see 'The Wild West,' Buffalo Bill's 
'America Exhibition?'" "Yes." We took a train, 
and a few miles' ride brought us to the grounds, where, 



LONDON: GREAT AND BEAUTIFUL THINGS. I I I 

for a shilling, (24 cents) each, we entered the exten- 
sive buildings and grounds. All free except the re- 
freshments and the reserved seats. We walked under 
the glorious " Stars and Stripes," and England's royal 
banners, and met English men, and women, and 
Americans, side by side, with the wild, red men of 
North America, who stalked about in gay blankets as 
if they were " to the manor born." 

Here are booths, stands, arcades, castles, bazaars, 
saloons, studios, and factories, where mechanics, art- 
ists, and handsome lady clerks preside. The art gal- 
lery is a very worthy display of American genius, life 
and scenery. We are under broad roofs of glass, and 
slate, and metal, upheld by wide arches of steel, and 
the rain descends in torrents, (the first England has 
had in weeks!) Now the lightning flashes in and 
contends with the electric lights — man-made light- 
ning — and heavy peals of thunder crash in, and drown 
partially the hum of human voices, and the roar and 
clash of machinery, and the multifarious sounds of 
business life. 

About 7 o'clock p. m., we went up into the great 
circular stand, which partially surrounds the field 
where the "Wild West" performances take place 
An hour in advance of the time, there are hundreds, 
if not thousands, assembled waiting for the perform- 
ances to begin. While we sit and look upon the open 
circle, which is swimming with water, and the great 
rain drops still fall, while most vivid flashes of light- 
ning appeared to rend the black sky, followed by peals 
of thunder that seemed to jar all of great London. 



112 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

For an hour this awful display of heaven's pyrotech- 
nics and artillery continued, and to add to the terror 
of the scene, the chief part of the lightning started 
earthward from the black heavens directly in front of 
us. The lightning was so bright that when the con- 
tinuous streak flashed out, a long line of bright, red 
dots took its place. Many seemed frightened and left 
the place. At 8:10, when we thought the exercise 
could not go on, the electric light, from great reflec- 
tors, flashed into and across the watery ring, and a 
man came out through the water and rain and an- 
nounced, in a loud voice, the programme of the even- 
ing. And very soon, through gaps in the painted 
mountains, companies of horsemen, Indians and Cow- 
boys rode in, and soon the riding, racing, shooting, 
yelling, etc., commenced, and for an hour and a half, 
the wildest and most bloody scenes of the very wild 
American West, went on in the heart of the world's 
greatest city, while the terrible thunder shower slowly 
abated. Amid a continuous rattle of rifle firing and 
yelling, of almost entirely nude savages, the frontiers- 
man's house, and the old mail coach, were set on fire, 
and the former burned to the ground. Buffalo Bill 
rode rapidly around the ring, shooting into fragments 
the glass balls thrown up by a rider. 

Taken all in all, so wild and grand a show I never 
witnessed before, and why the show went on, under 
such circumstances, was a wonder to me and my 
cousin. I hardly knew whether it most meant 
" Yankee" courage and enterprise, or "Johnny Bull" 
determination and stubbornness. I tell you, we two 



LONDON: GREAT AND BEAUTIFUL THINGS. I I 3 

hundred millions of English people are not to be de- 
spised ! I told my cousin, that this awful American 
thunder shower in steady, cool Old England of the 
north, surprised me more than anything I had yet 
seen here. He said we might wait years for such 
thunder again. The rain and the shower is over, and 
cousin and I find a train which takes us nearly home. 
The queen and her family visited the " Wild West" 
show, and "Buffalo Bill" was also complimented by 
other people of high degree. 



(8) 



CHAPTER X. 

LONDON: THE FOG, THAMES, AND PARKS. 

SMOKE FROM A MILLION CHIMNEYS — ONE HUNDRED AND 

FIFTY SQUARE MILES OF BUILDINGS A MODERN JONAH 

PLAIDED WITH RAILWAYS SEVEN THOUSAND MILES 

OF STREETS LONDON FOG DINNER BY LAMP-LIGHT 

LOST IN THE STREET WALKED INTO THE DOCK — 

BEEF CATTLE CHOKE TRAVEL BLOCKADED MAILS 

LATE — CRUSHED BY WHEELS UNSEEN — WHAT MAKES 

THE FOG PARTICLES OF SOOT ENCASED IN OIL AND 

CLOGGED IN MIST FOGGY DAYS ELSEWHERE — MORAL 

THE THAMES; A RIVER, SEA, SEWER, HIGHWAY AND 

HARBOR EMBANKMENT OBELISK MOSES, NAPO- 
LEON AND OTHERS — ROYAL DWELLINGS PARKS 

PALACES BLACK THORNS AND BRIGHT BAYONETS. 

I made some mention in last week's letter of Lon- 
don, but it would take many columns to describe the 
great city. There is, perhaps, never a day clear 
enough from smoke and haze to permit one to see 
even half of London at once. 

Imagine a city with nearly a million buildings, 
covering one hundred and fifty square miles; nearly 
six Huntington townships, or seven Jackson town- 
ships; with seven thousand miles of streets, and con- 
taining nearly as many people as the great State of 



LONDON: THE FOG, THAMES, AND PARKS. I I 5 

Pennsylvania. No wonder that fog and smoke hang 
over it nearly constantly. I would not greatly mar- 
vel if a modern Jonah should tramp down the Strand, 
or along the Thames Embankment crying, "Yet forty 
hours and London shall be overthrown!" or an angelic 
messenger declare it another Babel, and confound the 
tongues again, and thus disperse the vast multitudes 
to greener, fresher, and more salubrious habitations 
and pursuits. 

However, I do not consider London the most 
wicked city; I think many far worse; yet, it does not 
seem wise to rear human beings in such a dust, and 
rush, and roar, and smoke. Imagine, or as the Eng- 
lish girl says, " fancy," the tens of thousands of cabs, 
'buses, and street cars, carts, and wagons, that rattle 
and rumble over these thousands of miles of granite- 
bound streets, and the thousands of steam cars that 
run like a net-work over and under ground. London is 
completely checkered and plaided with railways, both 
over and under the streets. If you wish to go any- 
where, all you have to do is to go up or down into a 
station, or get upon a 'bus or tram-car, pay a very few 
pennies, generally two, and you are there. Still, after 
riding for miles, London yet roars around you. 

Through London streets beggars, princes, kings, 
queens, lords, ladies, artists, mechanics, laborers, and 
the rich and poor pass, some reclining on cushions of 
velvet and morocco, and others are led by a child or 
dog. These streets, which thunder with business, 
sometimes throb and rejoice with music, and waving 
banners, and nodding plumes. The smoke, ascending 



Il6 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

from hundreds of thousands of chimneys and engines, 
form a cloud which nature can seldom lift or waft 
away, and sometimes, when the fog comes up from the 
Thames and the sea, and mixes with this smoke, you 
have "a sight to see," in other words, you can hardly 
see anything, and street lamps, though burning, are 
seen but a yard or two. 

The time for the London fogs is in the winter. 
They begin in November and occur until the follow- 
ing March. The day I left London I could see but a 
few rods in the streets. Sometimes these fogs last two 
or three days, and partially suspend travel and busi- 
ness, as the 'bus-drivers and cabmen cannot see to 
drive about the streets. My cousin said, he knew a 
fog to continue for nearly three weeks, and it was a 
curious sight to see boys with torches running just 
ahead of the cab horses to show the way. Some- 
times you could not see a lamp across a small room. 
This must be much like the Egyptian darkness, for it 
can be felt by those with weak lungs and throat. 

Cousin Eleanor said, "One Sunday I had to get 
dinner by lamp-light." Another one said, "On one 
occasion, in a protracted fog, many beef cattle died." 
This subject is so curious and wonderful, that I will here 
clip, from an English paper, the best explanation I 
ever read of a London fog : 

"At most of the junctions of important streets in the 
metropolis, great confusion, danger, and delay were 
caused yesterday, from morning till night, in conducting 
the vehicular traffic; and in the midst of vehicles of 
almost every class, pedestrians found that to cross the 



LONDON: THE FOG, THAMES, AND PARKS. WJ 

street was a very hazardous operation. Lads and men 
earned many a copper by conducting people from one 
side of the street to the other during the day; and in 
the dismal obscurity of last night, link boys, with 
torches, and others, with bull's-eye lamps, were found 
at the corners of important suburban thoroughfares, 
ready to assist pedestrians across the roads. The day 
traffic of the city was carried on under circumstances 
more favorable than in other parts of the metropolis, 
because the public lamps were lighted. But, notwith- 
standing this, there were some awkward blocks dur- 
ing the day at Ludgate circus, upon which four busy 
thoroughfares converge; and for some minutes omni- 
buses, railway vans, carts, and cabs, were, at times, 
pressed together promiscuously in almost inextricable 
confusion. At Holborn circus, at King William's 
statue, west of Gracechurch street, and at the top of 
Cheapside, close to the general post-office, similar 
blocks occurred, the inconveniences and dangers of 
which the city police did much to alleviate. In the 
same way, the metropolitan police did excellent ser- 
vice on the great lines of traffic, such as the Strand, 
Oxford street, and Regent street, in extricating jam- 
med vehicles from their perilous position, in stopping 
traffic where its further progress would add to existing 
confusion, in getting out of the way cabs, carriages, 
and carts, that were blocking up the roadway, and in 
clearing a free and safe passage for persons crossing 
the streets. Along the suburban lines of railway, pas- 
sengers by the trains could see large fires blazing in 
open iron cages close to every signal post, the fire an- 



I I 8 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

swering the double purpose of warming the fog- 
signalman, who could not leave his post, and of con- 
veying, by its strong light, a good idea of the locality 
of the signal-post to the engine-drivers. On long 
stretches of line the numerous fires had a singular ap- 
pearance. The attendance of children at Board and 
other schools was very small yesterday. Last night 
the fog cleared away somewhat on the Surrey side by 
half-past eight; and was not so thick in the city as it 
had been during the day. Over the northern area of 
the metropolis it was very dense; and that was also 
the case in Norwood, Forest Hill, New Cross, Hatch- 
am and Lewisham. The atmosphere was raw and 
cold. The wind was exceedingly light, from the west- 
northwest. 

"Late on Tuesday night a porter, in the employ of 
the North London Railway Company, found the body 
of a respectably dressed man lying on the rails in the 
Dalston Junction Station. The poor fellow was ter- 
ribly mutilated, and most probably had been run over 
by more than one train. Dr. Callaway, of Dalston 
lane, was called, but life was extinct. The deceased 
was identified by some papers in his pocket as Mr. 
Nathaniel Andgrase, aged 55 years, a meat salesman, 
residing at 25 Oxford road, Finsbury Park. It is sup- 
posed that he fell or walked off the station platform 
in the dense fog. About the same time Arthur 
Charles Faulkner, of 131 Bouverie road, Stoke New- 
ington, was found lying on the Great Eastern Railway, 
at the London-fields station, with both of his legs ter- 
ribly crushed by a passing train. He was conveyed 



LONDON: THE FOG, THAMES, AND PARKS. I IO, 

to the German Hospital, where he remains in a pre- 
carious condition. He, too, had walked off the plat- 
form in the fog just as the train was approaching. A 
young woman named Arnold slipped off the platform 
at Dalston Junction, and was struck on the side by a 
train. A bystander, at great risk to himself, jumped 
down and pulled her from the front of the engine. 
She was taken to the German Hospital, and after a 
time was able to proceed home. People were lighted 
across the roads in the outskirts of London, with lan- 
terns and torches, and locomotion was exceedingly 
difficult. The railway services were carried on with 
extreme care. 

" Billingsgate Fish Market only received five hun- 
dred packages of fish on Tuesday, and there was none 
to hand yesterday morning, and when the cargoes arrive 
they will be greatly depreciated in value through the 
delay. There are many colliers lying below Graves- 
end waiting to proceed up the river. The wharves 
and warehouses on the Thames are virtually at a 
standstill, waiting for the goods that are afloat, but 
unable to reach their destination. The railway ferry- 
boat, between Tilbury and Gravesend, was unable to 
run after mid-day yesterday, and the daily passengers 
by the London and Tilbury Railway Company were 
subjected to the greatest inconvenience. At 9 p. m. 
an impenetrable fog hung over the river from Graves- 
end to London bridge. 

"Two men, named respectively Govatt and Forster, 
who were employed in the London docks, were making 
their way, on Tuesday, along one of the quays, when, 



120 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

owing to the thickness of the fog, they missed their 
way, and stepping over the edge of the quay, were 
both drowned. Their bodies were afterwards recovered 
near Mill wall. 

" The fog enveloping the estuary of the Thames and 
Medway was the densest known for years. All water 
traffic was at a standstill, and the mail service from 
Queenborough to the Continent was suspended. 
Sheerness Harbor was enveloped in the thickest fog 
known for many years. The mail cart, which brings 
the London and provincial mails from Chatham, was 
four hours late, the driver having great difficulty in 
finding his way along the roads which connect the Isle 
of Sheppy with the mainland. On the water it was 
impossible to discern objects only a few feet ahead. 
The mail packets for Flushing, with the Dutch and 
German mails, were unable to leave Queenborough 
Pier, and no boats arrived from the Continent yester- 
day. The troop-ship Wye, Staff Commander Alfred 
Thomas, is still lying in the harbor unable to take her 
departure for Gibraltar, whither she is bound with 
cadets for the Channel Squadron. Communication 
with the ships of war in Sheerness Harbor yesterday 
had to be kept up solely by fog signals. 

" The fog continued yesterday in the Channel, and 
along the coast. It was denser than on Tuesday, 
objects being obscured at a distance of a ship's length. 
The navigation of the Channel was so difficult that 
yesterday the Bologne steamer did not leave Folke- 
stone, and the passengers went on to Dover, where the 



LONDON: THE FOG, THAMES, AND PARKS. 121 

mail steamers ran regularly, although considerably 
delayed. 

"The fog at Sittingborne yesterday was worse than 
on Tuesday. Several barges, ready freighted, are de- 
tained at some of the wharves along the creek, waiting 
to be despatched. The owners, however, decline to 
let them depart while the fog lasts. The driver of the 
mail cart from Sheerness to Sittingborne met with an 
accident on Tuesday night in consequence of the fog. 
He ran into a fence at the side of the road, and was 
thrown out dangerously near to a dyke full of water. 
Fortunately, he escaped with a severe shaking, and 
resuming his journey, arrived at Sittingborne two hours 
late. Such a dense and long-continued fog has not 
been known in this district for many years. 

"A plate-layer named Hammond, while engaged 
last evening laying fog signals on the main London 
and North-Western line at Vauxhall, Birmingham, 
was knocked down by a goods train and killed. In 
the thick fog which prevailed he did not observe the 
train. His body lay on the metals for over an hour 
and a half before it was discovered. At Bilston a 
woman walked into the canal and was drowned. At 
Willenhall a carrier was driving to Walsall, when his 
horse got off the main road and fell into an open work. 
The cart was smashed to pieces and the horse was 
killed, but the man escaped, receiving only a few 
bruises." 

An editorial in the same paper, among other things, 
says: "There are fogs in Liverpool and Manchester, 
in Dublin and in Amsterdam, which, in unmitigated 



122 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

murkiness, fall little short of those ' London particu- 
lars ' for which Mr. Guppy apologized to the wards in 
' Jarndyce.' Only, as there are more people in London 
to write and read and talk about them, so we are apt 
to hear more of the metropolitan darkness than of 
that which is every winter seen elsewhere — just as 
the ' miseries of the Channel passage ' have a wider 
literary notoriety than the greater inconveniences of 
much more important voyages. All true fogs, from 
London to Behring Straits, from Greenland to Peru, 
are primarily due to mist, and their greater or less 
depth of hue is owing to the greater or less quantity 
of foreign matter with which the mist is associated. 
We have them in winter simply because in winter 
there is more moisture in the air than at any other 
time of the year, and less warmth to dissipate it than 
during the summer. 

"On the continent there are usually fewer fogs 
during winter, mainly because at that season there is 
generally less rain, and, therefore, less moisture to be 
evaporated in the shape of mist. Over the greater 
part of Europe and America the sky from December 
to April is often as clear as at any other period of the 
year. For the upper reaches of the air, instead of 
holding in suspension a thick layer of vapor, discharge 
it in the form of snow, and then what little evaporation 
goes on from the snow is speedily precipitated in the 
same form as before. Hence the comparative immunity 
of the continental cities, and, it may be added, of those 
of America, from the pest which afflicts our milder 
and moister latitudes. 



LONDON: THE FOG, THAMES, AND PARKS. I 23 

"This immunity does not, however, apply when the 
ground is saturated with water after a thaw, such as 
happens to be the case at present in many parts of 
Europe. Then, unless the wind is in such a direction 
that the ascending vapor extracted from the soil by 
the warm air is driven to a distance, it accumulates in 
the atmosphere, and becomes more or less impregnat- 
ed by the smoke and other impurities which get en- 
tangled in its meshes. Nor do the most favored of 
cities escape if the sea fog is driven far inland. It is 
a sea fog which is at present enveloping us. Some- 
times, on a clear day, it may be seen rolling in from 
the German ocean, and advancing up the river, and 
the streets funning parallel with it, in a distinctly visi- 
ble cloud. Then in a few minutes all is in darkness. 
The smoke of a million chimneys does not ascend or 
get blown away, but hangs within a few feet of the 
earth, and blackens the veil which has come between 
the sun and planet, dependent on his rays for heat and 
light. The sea fogs are generally wetter than those 
which owe their origin to evaporation from the land, 
for the palpable reason that in them the terrestrial im- 
purities —the soot, the chemical fumes, and the other 
nastinesses which blacken our faces and our linen, 
choke our lungs, and, as the Registrar General's returns 
show, shorten our lives — are less abundant than the 
watery elements. Over the sea the air is usually su- 
persaturated with evaporated moisture, and in some 
parts of the world, the Newfoundland Banks for ex- 
ample, this fog hangs almost continually, though it is 
not so black and so foul as in cities, because in the 



124 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

ocean there are no 'products of combustion' to befoul 
it. Fogs on land are more common in valleys through 
which large rivers flow, since, a cool body coming 
in contact with one that is warmer, the humidity is 
apt to be precipitated in the form of fog. The fleecy 
cloud which the painter loves is a near relation of the 
dirty London pall. The Scotch mist is another stage 
in its intensity as regards precipitation, while if the 
precipitation is still more copious, rain is the result, 
or if the strata of air through which the moisture falls 
is sufficiently chilly, it reaches earth in the form of 
snow. 

" Fog in London is, therefore, in no way different 
from fog elsewhere, except, possibly, that it is a trifle 
dirtier, and, therefore, a great deal thicker. Dr. 
Frankland will, no doubt, have us to believe that the 
dewy particles of fog are each covered with a wonder- 
fully thin envelope of petroleum, formed by the im- 
perfect combustion of the London smoke, which 
keeps the watery vapor from being dissipated. But, 
whether this hypothesis is well founded or not, — and 
it has the unquestionable merit of not being easily 
disproved — it does not alter the broad principles with 
which we have to deal. 

" These are, indeed, confirmed by the fact that, long 
before London was as large and as smoky as it is at 
present, the citizens complained bitterly of what Cra- 
shaw calls the 'profane fogs' that 'sit and scoule upon 
night's heavy brow.' Even in John Evelyn's time, he 
records that one week the fog was so thick that ' people 
lost their waye in the streetes.' A little earlier in our 



LONDON: THE FOG, THAMES, AND PARKS. 125 

history we seriously thought of checking the con- 
sumption of coal by the universal panacea of hanging 
the offenders. We may come to that again. 

"Meantime, though London fogs enjoy an unen- 
viable notoriety, our 'brumous isle' is in no respect 
more foggy than some countries to which no such 
celebrity attaches. In London the foggy days are, on 
an average, thirty-eight, which is the same as in Stutt- 
gart. In Munich they are forty-seven; in Hamburg, 
fifty-two; in Tegernsee, in the Bavarian Alps, one 
hundred and thirty-four, while so few are the clear 
days on the St. Gothard that this lofty pass may be 
said to be enveloped in mist during the greater part 
of the year. Its foggy days are two hundred and 
seventy-seven and a half out of the three hundred and 
sixty-five, an average which compares well with that 
unhappy town on the west coast of Scotland, where, 
according to the legend, it is always raining, ' except 
when it snows.' 

" The moral of all this is simply that we must bear 
with what nature has given us. We cannot prevent 
the London fogs. But by consuming our own smoke, 
using gas fires, or in some other way ceasing to defile 
the air, we may render them no worse than the hon- 
est watery mists with which Northern folks are so 
familiar." 

The Thames, a tidal river, say eight hundred feet 
wide, or like the Susquehanna at Wilkes-Barre, winds 
through the city and affords, with its docks, room for 
thousands of ships, and much local travel and traffic 
are done on its waters by long, narrow, uncovered or 



126 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

low-decked steamers, which glide rapidly up and down 
under many grand and substantial bridges. The river 
here looks to be filthy and much like a sewer, for, 
though Old Ocean sends her waters up and down 
the Thames like a throbbing vein, yet the mud and 
filth is rolled back by the tide before it reaches the 
open sea. However, the water looks more like mud 
than sewerage matter, and I noticed no disagreeable 
smell when I was along or upon its waters. The 
sewerage to a large extent is carried far down the 
river and more or less filtered for purposes of farm 
and garden fertilizing. London is nearly sixty miles 
from the open sea. 

I walked along the Thames Embankment for a mile 
or two and was pleased with the wealth and solidity 
manifested. Here was a great wall made of immense 
blocks of granite, from the street level to the bottom 
of the water, say thirty feet, with a heavy parapet or 
guard wall — all so heavy that it seemed done for the 
sake of giving employment to workers and to evince 
wealth and substance. 

Here stands on the solid embankment a beautiful 
obelisk, a " Cleopatra's Needle," from the ancient and 
classical Nile, where Abraham, Moses, Joseph, Alex- 
ander, Christ, Caesar, Anthony, Napoleon and Nelson 
thought and did great things, in the sight of the almost 
everlasting pyramids. Our obelisk in Central Park is 
taller and finer, yet ours standing on a hill is enhanced 
thereby in appearance. Opposite this embankment, 
across the streets, stand tall and elegant buildings of 
gray and light colored stone, columned, turretted, 



LONDON: THE FOG, THAMES, AND PARKS. 127 

domed, arched, spired; castles, temples, banks, cathe- 
drals, hotels and palaces. Here a great, gray stone 
hotel is being erected. See the mast timbers and 
scaffolding around it like dead forest trees before a 
ledge of gray granite. Here stands the Somerset 
House, a government building for internal revenue 
business, etc. It is apparently six hundred feet long, 
and with its great and lofty columns, looks indeed 
substantial. Indeed, there are buildings here which 
would almost bankrupt even a city of some preten- 
sions to erect. 

Yonder stands the House of Parliament with its 
great clock, "Big Ben," and it chimes and tolls four 
o'clock. You would not soon tire of hearing these 
chiming bells. I went on into St. James' Park, Re- 
gent Park, and Hyde Park, and was much surprised 
and pleased to see such fine and extensive parks near the 
heart of so great, and busy, and struggling, and suffer- 
ing a city — pleased that they, with their trees, flower 
gardens, seats, ponds, fountains, swans, ducks, walks, 
green lawns, lamps, drives, policemen and all, were 
free, and many poor people were resting and walking 
about therein. I saw the residence of the Prince of 
Wales, near St. James' Park, but it had high walls 
and trees, and shrubbery, on nearly every side. It is 
a plain, old structure, but I dare say it is very neat and 
comfortable within. Yes, it is most likely to be well 
furnished with beautiful things — things dear-bought 
and far-fetched. Opposite the prince's house is St. 
James' palace, a large, low, old building, well guarded 
by soldiers. It contains government property, and 



128 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

affords a residence for officers, and probably some 
relatives of the reigning family. As I wandered 
through these great parks I could imagine I was in 
the country, but when I came to the other side I again 
heard the roar of wheels and the clatter of hoofs like 
the roar of many waters. Yes, the pent-up waves of 
vast London roll on beyond the great parks, and 
stately hotels, stores and residences rear high their 
haughty heads. 

I passed Buckingham Palace, a residence of the 
queen. It is very large, and with its fine grounds, 
covers much territory. It is not tall, nor stately, nor 
elegant looking on the outside, but you may depend 
there is a fine suite of household utensils and orna- 
ments within, and comfort and happiness for human 
beings, provided they have health of mind, body and 
conscience ; however, I do not imagine that royalty is 
very happy in Europe, nor anywhere else: — I mean 
royalty without wings. All these public buildings 
and places are guarded by blue-coats and black 
thorns; and red-coats and bayonets, carbines and 
swords, on foot and on horseback. It is dark ; after 
calling on Minister Phelps, I start for home, I mean, 
my London home. 



CHAPTER XI. 

LONDON'S VASTNESS, ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL, ETC. 

FIFTEEN MILES THROUGH MIGHTY BUILDINGS ASKING 

FOR BREAD ON STONE BEDS ST. PAUL'S MARVELOUS 

CATHEDRAL; IT WHISPERS MARBLE HORSES KNEEL 

DOWN WITH SHERIFFS WHILE SAUL OF TARSUS ASKS 
A QUESTION — ANGELS, WOMEN AND WARRIORS, IN 
POLISHED MARBLE AND BRONZE, GLORIFYING DEAD 

HEROES TRAVELING WITHOUT LOSS A PURSE 

THRUST INTO A STRANGER'S BOSOM A DIGRESSION 

FRAGMENTS ANOTHER DIGRESSION HOSPITAL 

FLOATING THROUGH SALT BILLOWS THE CRUEL GOD 

OF THE SEA THREE GRAND SIGHTS — THE LAND OF 

INDIAN SUMMER GLORY UNDREAMED OF. 

I have already written two letters from London, 
but I have scarcely made a beginning on the great 
city, or " big village," as many call it. So, notwith- 
standing I have visited the large cities of England, 
France, Scotland, Ireland and Wales, I cannot refrain 
from writing again under this head. It is difficult to 
get the reader to form his ideas large enough when 
thinking of this vast city. Let us begin in the green 
fields, just out of the city, and walk through the great 
town. Here are fields of wheat with shocks of eight 
or ten sheaves, standing very thick ; there are meadows 

(9) 



I30 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

full of fat cattle and sheep. I think if David, the 
mighty warrior and immortal poet, had been an Eng- 
lishman he would have written, " The cattle upon a 
thousand plains and the sheep on a myriad hills are 
His." Handsome mansions stand on beautiful emi- 
nences, surrounded by fine trees and brilliant and 
fragrant flowers ; gardens arranged in symbols and 
letters that speak the praises of the King celestial 
and the queen terrestrial. Now, we come to long 
rows of neat, new tenement houses, for London builds 
thirty thousand houses a year. Now, we go on and 
come to substantial business blocks and the streets 
begin to teem with tram-cars, 'busses, cabs, drays and 
people. We pass on by stately mansions, palaces and 
extensive parks ; on by temples, towers, cathedral 
domes, castles, monuments, fountains and great build- 
ings of state, and arrive at the Thames Embankment. 
Now the heavens are smoky and the sun looks a dull 
red, for we are many miles from the green, fresh coun- 
try. Here is the river Thames crowded with steam- 
boats and business. Let us cross Waterloo bridge, a 
bridge apparently as solid as old Earth herself. We 
pass on for miles through streets so crowded that you 
wait at corners for a chance to cross. All kinds of 
business is going on in the streets and in great granite 
markets, and some beggars ask for money and others 
try to claim your attention with a box of matches, 
and bootblacks say : " Shine your boots, sir ; only a 
penny?" We pass Ludgate circus, Holborn viaduct, 
the post-office, Smithfield meat and fish markets, St. 
Paul's vast dome, go on by Bunhill fields, where Bun- 



LONDON S VASTNESS, ST. PAULS, ETC. I 3 I 

yan, Wesley, Clarke and others are buried, and so on 
into localities which for hundreds of years have been 
the abode of poverty, misery, crime and unrest. The 
pavements, doorsteps, and worn, dusty hallways seem 
to reek with tears and blood violently shed, and the 
cracks, creases and wrinkles on pavestones, bricks and 
doorways seem to speak weird, ruffian and piteous 
languages. Going on, we pass great railway stations 
with columns, gates, clock-towers and broad arched 
roofs of glass on ribs of iron ; on by stores and man- 
sions, and having made a trip of say fifteen miles, we 
again came into the God-made country among groves 
of trees, gardens of flowers and vegetables, and fields 
of grass, grain, sheep, cattle and brick kilns. 

I thought it was somewhat strange that on the 
steps of the monuments reared to commemorate the 
great deeds of great men, for instance, in Trafalgar 
Square, London, and in Dublin's wide street, Sackville, 
I saw so many idle men. I thought that a poor way 
to gain a monument. My cousin in Trafalgar said : 
"These men are out of work and they sleep here all 
night." Oh, yes; I see. They ask for bread and 
receive a stone. We cannot say that many men are 
built for monuments. Monuments are built for men 
who at their birth receive a genius, a spirit of unquench- 
able, undying determination to do or to be something. 
"They say, "Let this blood drip out, let these bones 
crack, let this body decay, but let this idea, this brave, 
eternal genius, live and shine." So they smile at labor 
and pain and face death in mines and markets, studies, 
studios and garrets, and sail through great billows, 



132 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

and wave bright swords over bloody and screaming" 
battle-fields, where angels and demons invisible look 
on with tears and amazement as mortal spirits burst 
away from mangled bodies. The monuments to sol- 
diers are tall and beautiful, but the monuments to 
philanthropists, patriots, artists, martyrs and saviors 
are lovely and ennobling. 

I said to my cousin, " If England ever becomes 
bankrupt, she may sell her works of art, her palaces,, 
and her relics, and her things of great beauty, value r 
and antiquity, and pay off her debts." The task of 
telling about all these grand and beautiful things is so 
great that I am slow to begin it. I stopped at the 
Central post-office and I found it to be comprised in 
two great granite buildings, one each side of the 
street; one 375 feet long and two stories high, the 
other 300 feet long and five stories high. A man 
said, "They have recently added a story to that build- 
ing which made room for over five hundred more 
clerks." They are preparing to build a larger and 
grander building. A report states that in one year 
there were 238,000,000 letters delivered from the 
post-office to the people of London. 

Now I am at St. Paul's Cathedral, perhaps the 
most impressive edifice I have yet seen. I walk into 
the beautiful church-yard grounds and look at ancient 
tombs and see the fine display of shrubbery and flow- 
ers. I paced around the building and counted five 
hundred and thirty-three paces; more than a fourth of 
a mile ! The flowers, all colors, sweet vegetable 
angels, grow in crosses to honor the place, while their 



LONDON S VASTNESS, ST. PAULS, ETC. I 33 

patriotic hearts spell out the words: "V. R. 1837, 
God save our Queen, 1887." In the gable over the 
the great portico is a representation of " Saul's Con- 
version." It is a grand sight to see men, and horses, 
and soldiers, in hard marble, fall prostrate in the pres- 
ence of the supernatural light and voice. This mas- 
sive church, one of the largest in the world, is crown- 
ed by one of the largest and most wonderful domes 
on earth, and is surrounded by a great, gilded cross. 
The structure is said to be three hundred and sixty- 
five feet high, and its great dome is seen towering 
aloft for miles around when the atmosphere is favor- 
able. Entering the church the spectator is almost 
awed by the magnitude and grandeur of the place. 
A forest of columns and arches uphold the lofty roof 
and dome, and as you walk the marble floor, light falls 
through many windows of stained glass like angels on 
errands of peace. Oh, what a labyrinth of rich and 
rare monuments stand around in marble and bronze 
to the honor of great soldiers, statesmen, divines, phil- 
anthropists, and artists. Those to Wellington, Nelson 
and General Gordon appear the grandest. England is 
remarkable for honoring her great soldiers. " Great 
murderers !" one man said. Here angels, and men, 
and children, and gods, and goddesses, and nymphs 
cluster in marble at the feet of the great ones to do 
them honor, while lovely women in pure, white mar- 
ble, draped in thin lace, stand about these departed 
heroes as if fain to warm them into life once more. 
Coming to a most kind and handsome face, cut in 
marble, I paused to see whom it represented, and read 



134 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

the name of " Howard." Coming to the centre you 
look up to the Whispering Gallery — a great height — 
and above it to the great pictured dome, and away to 
the top of the dome, where a small hole in the floor, 
or rather roof of the dome, permits the spectator to 
look down three hundred and twenty-five feet upon 
the people below, who "look like flies." 

Walking around and around, up well-worn stone 
steps, we came at length to the " Whispering Gallery," 
of which I had heard so much. The attendant, Mr. 
William Parker, said, " Go around yonder, please," 
and he motioned me around to a place on a narrow 
gallery opposite to him, and there I heard a whisper 
apparently near my ear saying, "The architect of this 
building was Sir Christopher W T ren. It was com- 
menced in 1675, nine years after the great fire, and 
was thirty-five years in building, and cost fifteen hun- 
dred thousand pounds. The building is three hundred 
and sixty-five feet high. This dome is one hundred 
and twelve feet in diameter, and my voice travels 
around about one hundred and seventy feet to where 
you are. Sir Christopher lived to see it finished, and 
died at the age of ninety-one years, and was buried in 
the crypt of the church." I whispered, " Is it possi- 
ble you are saying these things?" The whisper came 
back, "Yes." I said, "Wonderful!" and he whisper- 
ed back, " Yes, it is wonderful." I went on up to the 
Stone Gallery, and there I found William Rumford, as 
guide. He said, "Since the dynamite outrage we do 
not permit people to go up to the ball." We walked 
around the dome and looked off on the city. He 



London's vastness, st. Paul's, etc. 135 

said, " Yonder is the river Thames, Blackfriar's bridge, 
House of Parliament, Victoria tower, St. Bride's 
steeple, Bow church spire, Bank of England, Mint, 
Guild hall, London bridge, St. Mark's hospital, tower 
of the great fire, Shoreditch church, St. Luke's church, 
post-office, etc." "Oh, that is the great bell of St. 
Paul's. It weighs seventeen tons, and is tolled for five 
minutes every day at one o'clock." 

The watchman on top gave me a piece of the stone 
from the top of the dome, cut out in making repairs. 
I, of course, gave him a piece of silver for the favor. 
By the way, let me here say that, after traveling many 
years and thousands of miles in various countries, I 
have not lost nor been robbed of a single dollar. One 
gentleman this morning told me how he lost sixty 
dollars in London by the "confidence game." He 
actually put his pocket-book into a stranger's pocket, 
and, of course, never saw it afterward. The stranger 
had dazzled my fellow-voyager by shaking five hun- 
dred pounds in Bank of England notes before his eyes. 
Yes, a man is unwise when he wishes and expects 
something for nothing. The worlds of which we have 
knowledge are not built and run that way. Is this a 
digression, or is it slang; or, is it both ? If it is, make 
the most of it, for "you pay your money and take 
your choice." I do believe there are men who would 
be willing to be accounted fools, if thereby they could 
save some — I mean save some fragments. Fragments ? 
Yes, fragments of humanity. Now, for another digres- 
sion. I am sitting near the port-hole of a great steam- 
ship in the middle of the Atlantic, and the great, blue 



I36 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

waves roar hoarsely as they rush up nearly to the 
window where I am now writing. I am on my way 
back to see Percy and May, and sisters and — and you. 
We have had a storm (equinoctial) for two days, and 
the ship has become a great hospital, floating through 
salt waters and fresh breezes where health is supposed 
to gather her stores of bloom and cheerfulness. Oh, 
Neptune! you cruel god of the sea! How deathly 
you cause some of my dear fellow-travelers to look ! 
But doubtless a rose will yet glow warm, bright and 
fragrant where a snow-bank now lies. Yes, weeping 
may endure for a night, but joy, joy cometh in the 
morning, "in the morning," "surely cometh." 

Beautiful ! Yes, the sea and truth are beautiful. 
I have not been ill an hour since I left "America, dar- 
lint, the land of the free ;" yes, more — the land of the 
brave and beautiful, the land of the wild and wide, 
the high and low, the great and the grand. If I ever 
have seen three grand things, they are, a great thunder 
storm, Niagara, and the sea in a storm. The chief 
steward said I ought to have been a sailor. Well, I 
used to think my two crowns meant something ; but 
I fear the barber can not trace two now, for, "you 
see," my hair begins to part in the middle — i. e., you 
will see, when I get back where the sun sets over the 
Plymouth mountain, in beautiful Indian summer, paint- 
ing more glories in and along the Susquehanna than 
most people ever dream of. 



CHAPTER XII. 

BILLINGSGATE, TOWER OF LONDON, FIRE, GREENWICH. 

FISH, CARLOADS AND SHIPLOADS WHERE SLANG WAS 

BORN — MONUMENT OF LONDON A THOUSAND ACRES 

OF BUILDINGS BOW INTO ASHES — WILD FIRE DARTS 
ITS RED TONGUE AT THE KING AND AT THE HEAV- 
ENS THE TOWER OF LONDON DUNGEONS DARK FOR 

A THOUSAND YEARS — OLD WEAPONS OF WAR BLOSSOM 

IN BOUQUETS AND DECORATE THE CEILING LADY 

JANE GREY TRAITOR'S GATE FIFTEEN MILLION 

DOLLARS WORTH OF JEWELRY GARMENTS WORN BY 

LOVERS AND WARRIORS CANNON FROM THE FLOOR 

OF THE BONE-PAVED SEA RIDING ON THE THAMES 

GREENWICH NAVAL SCHOOL— FOREST OF FINE COL- 
UMNS PAINTED HALL SHIP MODELS NELSON 

PAINTED A GOD TRUE TO THE VISION. 

From London bridge we walked through Billings- 
gate fish market, where we find many men and 
women, in buildings, large and small, and in courts 
and streets handling and selling fish. Some were 
packing, others unpacking, counting, assorting, etc. 
There were fish of nearly all sizes, shapes and colors, 
red, white, yellow, blue, black, brown, bright and dull; 
with scales, claws, shells and pincers; dried, smoked, 
skewered and corded; in boxes, bales, tubs, kegs, 



I38 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

barrels, baskets, carts, barrows, wagons, etc. Oh, 
what a Babel ! The narrow streets are crowded with 
vehicles, horses and people. Hundreds of cartloads 
of fish are handled here each day. 

Near this quarter stands the tall monument erect- 
ed to commemorate the great fire of 1666, which 
breaking out near this spot, burned down many thous- 
ands of buildings. The column is two hundred and 
two feet tall, and is crowned by a great urn that rep- 
resents a flaming fire and glitters in the sun. For 
threepence one can go up inside to a gallery near the 
top, where a good view can be had, on a clear morn- 
ing. Some years ago people fell into the habit of 
jumping from this tower, which caused the gallery to 
be covered with an iron screen. So we see that hu- 
man beings have to be saved from themselves as well 
as from their "friends." 

The greatest fire ever known on earth deserves 
more than a passing notice, and I will here make room 
for a few lines on the subject clipped from my own 
work, and from one, Pepys, who witnessed this awful 
exhibition of wild-fire. 

In London, in September, 1666, a little fire sprang 
up, and roared, and spread, and darted its red tongue 
into the black heavens as it dissolved long streets full 
of houses. Armies of firemen could not tear down 
the houses fast enough to starve it out, and it slum- 
bered not until 13,200 houses and 89 churches lay in 
ashes. It cared not for the king, nor lords, ladies, 
soldiers, beggars, nor firemen. 

The story, as Pepys gives it, may be regarded as 



BILLINGSGATE, TOWER OF LONDON, ETC. I 39 

one of the first and best bits of realistic description in 
English literature, pre-Raphaelite in its accuracy. 
From the first moment, when the maids who have sat 
up to finish some preparations for a "feast" the next 
day, call their master at three in the morning to tell 
of a great fire in the city, to the end, when he wanders 
among the ruins trying to recall landmarks, one sees 
every inch of the fiery progress. Pepys goes to sleep 
again after a short look and rises late, setting at once 
to work with his usual love of order in arranging the 
closet, disturbed by the women's cleaning the previous 
day, and undoubtedly swearing under his breath at 
their theories regarding the relative value and place 
of papers. But when at last he is told that the fire 
has reached London bridge he hastens down, noting 
by the way how the poor pigeons, "loath to leave 
their houses, hovered about the windows and bal- 
conies till they burned their wings and fell down." 

The people seemed equally distraught, staying in 
their houses till the fire touched them and then running 
into boats or clambering from one pair of stairs by 
the water side to another. 

Back to the king's closet in Whitehall, and " I did 
tell the king and duke of York what I saw, and that 
unless his majesty did command houses to be pulled 
down nothing could stop the fire. They seemed much 
troubled and commanded me to go to my lord mayor 
from him and command him to spare no houses, but 
to pull down before the fire every way." A hand in 
an affair of this magnitude was altogether to the mind 
of the busy little man, who hastened by coach, seeing 



I4O IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

" extraordinary good goods carried in carts and on 
backs." 

The Lord Mayor is met at last, "like a man spent 
with a handkercher about his neck," who, when he 
heard the king's message, " cried like a fainting 
woman, 'Lord! what can I do? I am spent. People 
will not obey me. I have been pulling down houses, 
but the fire overtakes us faster than we can do it' So 
he left me, and I him " Pepys goes on, and walked 
home, gazing at the distracted people, not forgetting 
his passion for fine clothes even here, but noting, "I 
saw Mr. Isaac Houblon, the handsome man, prettily 
dressed and dirty at his door, at Dowgate, receiving 
some of his brother's things."- Later on, as the day 
wanes, " we had an extraordinary good dinner, and 
as merry as at this time we could be." 

" Here all merriment ended. Even the light-heart- 
ed king felt anxiety enough to go and come restlessly 
in his barge, watching the fire from one point and an- 
other. The wind has risen. Flakes of fire were car- 
ried and dropped in a horrible shower, and as it grew 
darker, and they could endure no more on water, they 
retreated to a little ale house. We saw the fire grow 
and appear more and more, and in corners, and upon 
steeples, and between churches and houses, as far as 
we could see up -the hill of the city, in a most horrid, 
malicious, bloody flame, not like the fine flame of an 
ordinary fire. We staid till, it being darkish, we saw 
the fire as only one entire arch of fire from this to the 
other side of the bridge, and in a bow up the hill for 



BILLINGSGATE, TOWER OF LONDON, ETC. I4I 

an arch of above a mile long; it made me weep to 
see it." 

So for days, the story goes on, till nearly a week 
has passed. The fire reaches the foot of the lane the 
day after Pepys and Sir William Penn have dug a hole 
in the garden and buried their wine in it, not forget- 
ting a Parmesan cheese and some papers, and he and 
the pretty, silly wife, with some friends, carry the gold 
to a boat and escape to Woolwich, Pepys leaving the 
treasure there with a charge that it must be watched 
night and day, and hastening back to watch once 
more the march of fire and flame. 

At last it ends, when all have lost reckoning even 
of the days of the week, and Pepys, with a long drawn 
breath of relief, celebrates the release from anxiety by 
hurrying to a friend's lodging, " where," he writes char- 
acteristically, " I borrowed a shirt and washed." A 
week later the wine and " Parmesan cheese," are once 
more in the proper place, furniture is set up again, and 
Pepys goes to church and a thanksgiving service that 
the fire is over, objecting strongly to the cheap wit of 
the preacher, who tells them the "city is reduced from 
a large folio to a decimo tertio," and gives them alto- 
gether "a bad, poor sermon." 

The Tower of London : This famous old castle,, 
for it is more like a castle than a tower, stands on the 
north bank of the Thames and dates back to the days 
of William the Conqueror, more than eight hundred 
years ago. It has been used as a fortress, a castle, a 
palace, a state prison, a place of execution, the resi- 
dence of royalty, an armory, a record office, a menag- 



142 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

erie, a museum of warlike antiquities, captured arms, 
cannon and banners, and a safe for crown jewels. Of 
course, as the Tower, with its walls and many build- 
ings, covers more than twelve acres of ground, it 
could answer a number of these uses at the same time. 
When we came to its massive walls and gates we found 
them well guarded by soldiers. 

We get tickets at the office and pass in over the 
old moat, which is now used as a vegetable and flower 
garden and a place for drilling and exercising the 
soldiers. As we arrive near the White Tower we hear 
music from an excellent drum corps and a band of 
Highland bagpipers, and soldiers are drilling on the 
stone-paved court. Here are a great number of can- 
non, mostly ancient and of unique pattern, long, slender, 
graceful, and others short, clumsy and of large calibre, 
for throwing shells, etc. These bear foreign inscrip- 
tions, showing that they have been captured from 
France, Spain, Russia, Africa and India, but I saw 
none from America, while many of them were from 
France. Nearly every city and castle in England is 
ornamented with Russian cannon. Yes, there are 
thousands of tons of almost useless cannon in England, 
giving a warlike aspect to castles and parks, to say 
nothing of the thousands of very efficient guns which 
darken the port-holes of forts and thunder from the 
decks of great war ships. 

I wish my readers could see a few of Armstrong's 
one hundred and ten ton guns — mighty engines of 
modern warfare, which flash lightning and hurl nearly 
a ton of hard, cold metal like a black thunderbolt 



BILLINGSGATE, TOWER OF LONDON, ETC. 1 43 

through space, splintering massive ribs of oak, grind- 
ing walls of brick and granite to dust, and making 
great rents in manifold plates of fine-grained iron and 
steel, honestly riveted. Italy and China are paying 
England for making them many great guns, and when 
the world has a full supply of these artificial thunder 
storms with which men hurl lightning from ships to 
cities and from kingdoms to empires, war will be a 
thing of the past. 

Yes, gold and silver are monarchs now, only 
slightly limited; but friendship, justice and love will 
ere long wave their fair, bright banners over the 
mountains of land and the mountains of water. Then, 
when the sun rises, a halo of glory will surround his 
bright face, spelling out the word " Millennium," and 
billows Atlantic will crouch at his feet, while tempests 
rest and steel-harnessed steam does the work on 
broad, blue seas. 

To return to the Tower of London, the guide 
points out the spot where Lady Jane Grey's beautiful 
head fell into the cruel and bloody basket. I gather- 
ed up a few brown leaves, and pebbles from the place. 
There is where prisoners of state looked through 
iron bars, or carved pictures on the cold, gray stones 
within, until cruel, envious, bloody and fickle politics 
opened the door to lead them to death or to glory. 
There is where princes were smothered, and there is 
where princes were born and tutored, and there is 
where queens dressed, and bowed, and smiled, and 
sighed, and wept. There is the " Bloody Tower," the 
" Lion Tower," and yonder the " Traitor's gate," which 



144 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

opens into the river Thames. If a prisoner passed in 
under this great spiked gateway, he might never hope 
to see the outside world again. 

We entered a stronghold through doorways, hall- 
ways, and stairways of granite, well guarded by door- 
keepers, and come to where the crown and crown 
jewels are kept. They are placed in plain sight in a 
large, upright show-case, and well protected by glass 
and an outer frame-work of iron. There is the crown 
and scepter, and maces, and badges, and sashes, glit- 
tering with precious stones, said to be worth 
$ 1 5 ,000,000. 

Now, we pass on to old verdigris-eaten armor,, 
worn by soldiers and rulers hundreds of years ago. 
Here are the garments of state worn ages ago by kings 
and queens, and other so-called great people. Now, 
look through these great rooms and see tens of thous- 
ands of queer old pistols, carbines, muskets, rifles, 
ramrods, bayonets, knives, daggers, swords, spears,, 
battle-axes, lances, helmets, breastplates, etc., all form- 
ed into various and curious shapes; like suns, flowers,, 
crowns, birds, butterflies and ornaments. The walls 
and ceilings were frescoed with them. One place was 
fenced with swords, each picket was a sword, the 
handle being up. Bayonets and ramrods were curi- 
ously wrought together. 

To add to the interest of these sights we were 
informed of the great age of many of the relics and 
who had worn and used them, and where they had 
been rent by arrow, spear, battle-axe or bullet, or 
stained with human blood. Crowds of people were. 



BILLINGSGATE, TOWER OF LONDON, ETC. 1 45 

here, also looking at these historical things and scenes. 
Outside were cannon brought up from the " Royal 
George," which went down into the sea with nearly a 
thousand men on board one fine day in 1782. When 
the port-holes were opened she rolled on one side into 
the water, and before the guns could be righted she 
went down, and this cannon was brought up from her 
wreck fifty-two years afterward. 

We must leave London Tower, with its blood- 
soaked cobble-stones and carved prison walls, and its 
old beheading-block and axe ; its guarded crowns and 
war relics ; its red-coated soldiers, and kilted bag-pipers 
from Scottish highlands. We pass the strange looking, 
three-barrel cannon captured in 1706 of the Portu- 
guese, and pass out over the draw -bridge and moat and 
find our way to a steamboat landing and embark on 
the Thames for Greenwich, a few miles down the 
river. 

We stand on the deck of a long, low steamer and 
gaze out on some of London's great buildings, reared 
for worship, pleasure, business and commemoration. 
We see many narrow canal-boats loaded with coal, 
timber, brick, etc., being towed by tugs. There are 
great warehouses and factories, some of them bearing 
names well known in America. 

Here cross railways into stations where hundreds 
of trains come and go daily — stations so extensive 
and manifold in their departments and offices that a 
stranger can do but little more than ask questions, 
and, at last finding the right platform, and right train, 
and right car, and right compartment, and seeing his 

(10) 



I46 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

luggage safe at his feet or overhead in the car, hand 
the poor, patient porter a small "tip," say anywhere 
from two-pence to a shilling. Yonder in inland docks 
are acres of shipping. 

The docks of London are now chiefly out of the 
city proper toward the sea, where room and water are 
more abundant. The London docks are, of course, 
very extensive, and in construction are much like 
those of Liverpool. Here goes a great ocean steamer, 
pushing out to sea, but among so many smaller ships 
and boats she must move cautiously. There are cattle 
and lumber boats. There is a great elevator, and there 
stands the" Lion Brewery," a large building. A shower 
comes up and we, or many of us, go down into the rather 
small and close cabin, among men and women, young 
and old, handsome and ugly, chatty and silent, while 
others almost drench their finery on deck under, or par- 
tially under, umbrellas rather than go below. After 
some miles of a ride, for which we paid three-pence, we 
arrive at Greenwich, near the celebrated Observatory 
which stands on an eminence in very pleasant grounds, 
some distance from the Thames. Here is the Green- 
wich Naval Academy, the Hospital, the Museum, the 
Painted Hall, etc. The buildings are large and hand- 
some, surrounded by smooth and extensive walks and 
grounds. The buildings have forests of fine, tall col- 
umns in front of them, enough to stock a cemetery. 

I always find myself admiring columns, and do 
not wonder that all great and beautiful buildings have 
columns. Sometimes in front, some on all sides, some 
a few stories up from the ground; but columns no- 



BILLINGSGATE, TOWER OF LONDON, ETC. I 47 

where look grander to me than when, two hundred 
feet from the ground, forty or more of them encircle 
and bear up a great dome, for instance, like St. Paul's, 
London. 

The "Painted Hall," whose walls and lofty ceil- 
ing show the fine paintings, which took an artist 
twenty-one years to do, is a very interesting place. 
The scenes are historical, and chiefly represent naval 
battles and naval heroes. These fine works of art must 
fire the energy and ambition of patriotic youths to 
deeds of daring. 

If there is one man above another, that Great 
Britain honors, he is Lord Nelson. You find him up- 
reared on lofty and graceful columns and monuments 
in nearly all her cities, and his face and form well 
painted in all the art galleries and museums. Here he 
is the dominant genius, and we find him in many of 
the paintings, and in most of the battles he is the 
prominent figure, in the front and hottest of the fight. 
If artists have not misrepresented him, he was one of 
the most lion-hearted men the world has ever seen. 
They have nearly painted him a god in contending 
hand-to-hand against brave seamen in distant seas, 
where blood tinged the waves, and fire and smoke 
muffled the atmosphere, that shuddered with the 
thunder of artillery. Even after he lost his arm and 
an eye, he would not give up the resolve to cover his 
country with glory until he met his death at Trafal- 
gar, October 21, 1805. He conquered sea and land, 
and crowned the "wooden walls" of "Old England" 
with the wealth and art of many lands, and his coun- 



I48 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

trymen are determined that lasting glory shall crown 
his name. Here they display his garments worn in 
the battle of the Nile, and the blood-stained coat he 
wore when the fatal bullet struck him at Trafalgar. A 
cynic might ask was he working most for self or 
country. His genius prompted him to contend for 
mastery on rolling waves, and he was not disobedient 
to the glorious vision. 

We saw many magnificent models of ships that 
have sailed for England's honor and wealth, during 
hundreds of years, past and present; but, as we wish 
to do Crystal Palace yet to-day, we must leave this 
interesting locality. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

CRYSTAL PALACE, WESTMINSTER ABBEY, THE QUEEN'S 
HORSES, ETC. 

CRYSTAL PALACE; ITS FOUNTAINS, STATUES, PAINTINGS, 

AND ORIENTAL HALLS SOUTH KENSINGTON, A CITY 

OF PALACES CROWDED WITH BEAUTIES AND WON- 
DERS THE QUEEN'S MONUMENT TO A LOVING HUS- 
BAND — THE MUSEUM THE FIRST STEAM ENGINE 

NATURAL SCIENCE MUSEUM BIRDS TALL AND SWIFT 

AS HORSES FIVE THOUSAND HUMMING BIRDS 

WHALES, ETC. THE BRITISH MUSEUM MADAM 

TOUSSAUD'S WAX KINGS, QUEENS, POETS, WARRIORS, 

AND MURDERERS A WALK UNDER THE RIVER 

THAMES SPURGEON, LONDON'S PREACHER CITY 

TEMPLE WESTMINSTER ABBEY, WHERE THE FAMOUS 

DEAD SLEEP FOR CENTURIES SOLEMN PLACE, WHERE 

STONE FACES GAZE HEAVENWARD STONE LACE FOR 

FRESCOING MARBLE, GRANITE, BRASS AND BRONZE 

BLOSSOM INTO ANGELS AND BOUQUETS TO GLORIFY 
THE BELOVED DEAD — THE QUEEN'S STABLES SIX- 
TEEN PRINCELY HORSES, AND TWO GROOMS IN ONE BED- 
ROOM MOROCCO HARNESS, GOLD-BOUND GILDED 

CHARIOTS. 

Leaving Greenwich by steam railway, we went to 
Crystal Palace, which is at Sydenham, some miles out 



I50 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

from London. On our way we passed Blackheath, 
where, in broad, green fields, we saw many young men 
in white and gay-colored suits, engaged in playing 
cricket and other athletic games. 

The train stopped at the world-famous palace and 
we passed out and into it, all the time under roof. The 
building is beautiful and extensive, though built more 
than thirty years ago. It is of glass and iron and cost 
over seven millions of dollars. The columns, girders, 
braces, arches and rafters are iron, graceful in con- 
struction and covered with glass, through which the 
sunlight falls mellow and pleasant. 

I would judge the building to be a thousand feet 
long at least, and say three hundred feet wide, and in 
the centre at least one hundred feet high, with a hand- 
some tower at each end of about two hundred feet 
high, from the top of which fine views are had of the 
grounds and surrounding country. It stands in a fine 
park of two hundred acres. It would take a large 
book to mention and describe the handsome things 
seen here 

We passed in by flowers, shrubbery and plants of 
many rare varieties; by fountains, paintings, statues, 
fine show-cases, bazaars and thousands of well-dressed 
people. On the stage, opposite the great organ, a 
young lady was singing some sweet and pleasing song, 
to which a thousand or two listened and then heartily 
encored. 

We greatly enjoyed ourselves among the many 
fine paintings done by painstaking children of genius. 
Here the romance of love, the glory of war, the beauty 



CRYSTAL PALACE, WESTMINSTER ABBEY, ETC. I 5 I 

of home, the freshness of the country, religion's crosses 
and crowns, and the nobility of patriotism were all 
grandly represented. Now we come where genius 
has caused great and beautiful things to blossom out 
into pure white marble in the form of fish, birds do^s 
lions, horses, fountains, cupids, nymphs, angels, men 
and women. 

Truly, we roam here » 'mid pleasures and palaces " 
hanging gardens, crystal fountains, baths, aquariums 
bazaars, grottoes, columns, arches, domes, oriental and 
marble-paved halls, full of melody, perfume and beauty 
A military band furnished excellent music. 

• T? u PaSSGd thr ° Ugh the E ^P tian ' Pompeian, Ital- 
ian Alhambra, Byzantine and Medieval courts We 
lookout over the extensive grounds, beautiful with 
flowers, fountains, lakes, music-pagodas, thickets 
bridges, terraces, etc.; all of which at night are bril- 
liant with colored lights and fire-works. There to 
one side, is the toboggan slide. 

When we re-enter the palace we find it resplendent 
wth tens of thousands of lights, shaded by colored 
glass; also electric lights and gas. The scene is real- 
ly enchanting, especially to those of a romantic and 
poetic temperament. 

and^, f f e , nSingt ° n ' ad i oi »^ H yde Park, is a clean 
and delightful quarter of the city. You might say it is 
a city composed of palaces, full of beautiful, rare, val- 
uable and ancient things from all the realms of nature 
and art. Here is the "Albert Memorial," the most 
elaborate and beautiful monument I have yet seen ft 



152 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

is as handsome as granite, marble, bronze, gold, and 
glittering stones, combined with beautiful images, can 
be. It bears the following inscription, " Queen Victoria 
and her people, to the memory of Prince Albert, Con- 
sort; as a tribute of their gratitude for a life devoted to 
the public good." The monument stands on a plateau 
approached by granite steps. A large, gilded, statue 
of the prince sits upon a high, broad pedestal, over 
which, upheld by four grand clustered columns, stands 
the tall and graceful monument. The whole structure 
is one hundred and seventy-five feet high, and cost 
about $600,000. On high pedestals, at each corner of 
the monument, stand most beautiful sculptured groups 
representing Europe, Asia, Africa and America. 
There are about three hundred life-size figures in and 
on the monument, representing poets, painters, musi- 
cians, soldiers, statesmen, sculptors, bishops, etc. 
Near this is the "Albert Hall," a large, circular build- 
ing, devoted to art, music, instruction and amusement. 
The building is about one thousand feet in circumfer- 
ence, and six stories high. An elevator lifted us up to 
the picture gallery, where the whole circle is filled 
with paintings. The inner side of this great circle 
is divided into thirty arches, resting on handsome 
pillars, and as we look across the wide, deep arena, 
we see, under the circling arches, and between the 
handsome columns, large pictures composed of many 
fine paintings. It seats eight thousand people. In 
the evening about five thousand gas burners flash at 
once into blaze at the mystic touch of man-made 
lisfhtning - . 



CRYSTAL PALACE, WESTMINSTER ABBEY, ETC. I 53 

We also visited the Kensington museum, a large 
and handsome building, full of curious and beautiful 
things from the four quarters of the earth. The floors 
on which we trod were pictures; the windows were 
prize paintings ; the furniture was carved and inlaid 
with fine substances; the walls, ceilings and columns 
were of porcelain, gracefully formed and artistically 
colored, speaking with characters plain and allegorical. 
Here were many pieces of sculpture, samples of tapes- 
try, carvings, inlaying, pictures in bronze, models of 
rare old masters, coffers, urns, rare and ancient furni- 
ture, chandeliers, curtains, etc., glass stairway, gilded 
ceiling, grottoes, and hanging gardens on twisted col- 
umns of bronze upholding works of art. 

In the machine department I saw what was labeled 
"Puffing Billy," "the oldest steam engine in exist- 
ence;" completed in 181 3, and was in operation till 
1862. It was not large, and contained beams of oak 
which showed great age and wear. Also saw " The 
Rocket," an engine built by Stephenson & Co., in 
1830, which was "the first to draw passenger trains, 
and took a prize of five hundred pounds in 1830." 
Here were the watch, rule, etc., of George Stephenson, 
the great machinist. Also, the "first and original 
reaping machine made in 1826, and used all the time 
to 1867." Also, "the first fire engine in which two cyl- 
inders and an air vessel were combined." The origi- 
nal engine for steamboat "Comet," the first advertised 
steamboat to carry passengers and goods on the Clyde 
in 181 2; "made by John Robertson in 18 12, and set 
up here by him in 1862, at the age of 81 years." 



154 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

Here was a gilded royal state barge two hundred and 
seventy years old; sixty-three feet long. 

The "Natural Science Museum" is in a large, neat 
and modern building, admirably adapted for its pur- 
pose. It is built of terra cotta blocks and is beautiful. 
Images of animals and monsters are seen on the 
cornices, window-sills, etc. Here the sightseer finds 
nearly everything in nature, animate and inanimate- 
Here were the skeletons and stuffed remains of ani- 
mals, birds, fish and insects ; humming birds of a half 
ounce weight, to the ostrich of seven and a half feet ; 
swans, emus, cassowaries, etc. ; whales, sharks and 
minnows ; rare plants, and hundreds of cases of min- 
erals and precious stones, bird's nests and their eggs ; 
the skeleton of a whale fifty feet long ; a bamboo cane, 
eight inches in diameter, eighty-one feet long ; Gould's 
collection of humming birds, say one hundred six-sided 
glass cases, each containing fifty specimens of these 
tiny birds ; a model of the largest nugget of gold ever 
found in Australia, the "Welcome Stranger," weight 
2,280 ounces, etc. Here, sixty feet from the ground, 
we dine amid wonders of nature and beauties of art, 
served by modest, handsome and intelligent English 
girls. 

We went to the British Museum, Great Russel 
street, a massive stone building surrounded by a for- 
est of lofty columns. This is one of the favorite insti- 
tutions of England's great ones, and it is embellished 
and enriched with rare and ancient things from all of 
earth's continents and every realm of science. The 
rows of Egyptian mummies, men and women — the 



CRYSTAL PALACE, WESTMINSTER ABBEY, ETC. I 55 

thousands of rare, old and precious books, written and 
printed in many ways and bound in various materials 
and things unearthed in holy and unholy lands pos- 
sessed the chief interest for me. The guide-books 
say the largest library in the world is here It is a 
most wonderful place, calculated to overpower a brain 
of limited calibre. 

We went to see Madame Toussaud's exhibition of 
wax-work. We saw scores of great people and royal 
famrhes resplendent in bright wax and gay garments 
of silk lace, velvets, coronets, etc. We could scarcely 
tell at first glance which was the spectator and which 
the one done in wax. If wax, like figures, won't lie 
then the cemeteries of England contain many very 
handsome folks. Here was Napoleon's old carria-e 
"from which he saw the burning of Moscow;" here 
was the bed he died on ; here the coronation robes of 
Josephine, etc. In the "Chamber of Horrors" were 
the ugly faces and forms and garments of hideous 
male and female villains, and the old gallows that had 
strangled many; and here was Lipski, the Polish lew 
who had been hanged in London only the day before! 

We went down a circular stairway like going into 
a deep well, and walked through a seven-foot tube 
away under the famous river Thames, while ocean 
tides and steamboats floated far above us. It was 
much like a mine, and I breathed more freely when we 
again came to the great, roaring outside world. I did 
not admire the looks of the few people we met in the 
great tube or sub-way. 



I56 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

Sunday morning, August 21st, Henry and I walked 
across Holborn Circus, on, near Ludgate Hill, to 
Blackfriar's bridge, over the Thames, and thus on 
along the great, busy street, to the " Elephant and 
Castle," where stands Rev. C. H. Spurgeon's large and 
very plain tabernacle. It was ten minutes past ten, 
but already the people were going in. We went in 
and up to the second gallery, and sat in the aisle until 
about 10:45, when we were allowed to take seats in 
pews. There were say 5,000 people present. The 
preacher stood on a level with the floor of the first 
gallery, with listeners above and below him. The 
galleries, too, run all around the church, which is on 
the oval order. The pews are cushioned, but have no 
doors. The singing is congregational and good, led 
by one man ; no instrument. The preacher read the 
first chapter of Ephesians, and made sharp telling 
comments on the same. His prayers were simple, 
pointed and powerful. He took for his text the 12th 
and 1 3th verses of the first chapter of Ephesians; sub- 
ject, "The Predestinating Power of God." The ser- 
mon was plain, earnest, and calculated to be helpful in 
the every day life of an active worker and Christian. 
It was a good sermon, and showed much tact and 
ability. His manner is sincere, earnest, friendly, but 
not violent nor loud. He appeared to be about fifty- 
four years of age, and to weigh, say two hundred and 
ten pounds. 

In the evening we went to the " City Temple" to 
hear Dr. Parker, but that eloquent man was on his 
way to Brooklyn, to preach in Beecher's pulpit. The 



CRYSTAL PALACE, WESTMINSTER ABBEY, ETC. I 57 

minister was from Scotland, and as he prayed for Dr. 
Parker, he also prayed for "that great country" to 
which he was sailing. 

Of course, I visited Westminster Abbey. This an- 
cient burial-place and cathedral, stands opposite the 
House of Parliament, not far back from the Thames 
river, in a grand and historic portion of London. Its 
length is four hundred and sixteen feet, breadth at 
transept two hundred and three feet, height of west- 
ern towers two hundred and twenty-five feet. The 
building dates back nearly a thousand years, and its 
architecture is much like the cathedrals of England, 
for here you have the grand, massive and lofty col- 
umns, the organ, the stained glass, and towers, and 
bells, and choirs, etc., but, we have more here for the 
place is crowded with fine, old and handsome monu- 
ments to dead heroes, poets, and others, and Henry 
the Seventh chapel is here, well guarded by locked 
doors and gates, which a small fee will open at certain 
hours of the day. I confess to being considerably 
impressed when shown the bronze and marble tombs, 
and images of kings and queens, of whom we 
have read and heard so often. Here lie King; 
Henry VII and his queen, finely represented in marble, 
side by side, with rare and significant emblems all 
about them — emblems of power, wealth, intelligence 
and Christianity. Here are the straight, graceful 
forms of princes cut down by the tyrant Death before 
they had crowns set upon their heads. There they lie 
and rest while London roars like the sea, and centur- 
ies come, bringing railways and steamboats, and go 



T58 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

leaving telegraphs, telephones, and palaces blazing 
with domesticated lightning. We can not do much 
more for our great ones than to cut their images in 
stone and lay them with their faces looking toward 
heaven, from whence cometh power and glory, and 
where the brave and good find lasting happiness. The 
ceiling over these famous monuments is of stone, cut 
like lace, most intricate and beautiful. It is said to 
be unequaled, and I believe it, for I never before saw 
stone so wonderfully chiseled. After all, it seems only 
consistent that granite, marble, brass and bronze should 
blossom into bouquets and burst into crowns and 
angels to honor their last resting-place, for they in 
life were busy beautifying the homes and graves of 
others, or moulding granite and metals into forms to 
protect and please those who already lived or should 
live. 

Calling at the rooms of the American Legation, in 
Victoria street, not far from Westminster, Mr. Henry 
White, chief secretary for Minister Phelps, an affable 
and competent man, secured for me passes to view 
both Houses of Parliament, the Queen's Stables, and 
the Royal Arsenal at Woolwich. The stables where 
the royal carriages, harness and horses are kept are 
well guarded by soldiers, policemen, door-keepers and 
guides. They are open from 2 p. m. to 4 p. m. to those 
having tickets. The stables are of brick, solid, exten- 
sive and unpretentious. At the gate I met Mr. Bray, 
in neat uniform, who informed me he had been here 
thirty years, and when he knew I was from Pennsyl- 
vania he told me he had a son, a Presbyterian minister, 



CRYSTAL PALACE, WESTMINSTER ABBEY, ETC. I 59 

at Edgehill, near Philadelphia. Mr. Blandy, a pleasant 
young man, accompanied me about the place. He 
showed me perhaps one hundred fine horses, bays, 
blacks and creams. The stables are clean, light, large 
and comfortable, and the horses stand in clean, white 
straw. The name of each horse is painted above his 
manger. 

Mr. Blandy said : "The Queen is now at Balmoral, 
Scotland,. and most of the princes have gone to Ger- 
many. She takes twenty-three horses to Balmoral 
and hires the others she needs there. In London she 
drives bays and when in the country she drives grays." 
Here are eight black and eight cream-colored stallions, 
magnificent horses, to be used on state occasions, when 
a guard walks at the head of each horse. This breed 
of unequaled cream-colored horses, with Roman nose 
and round, smooth forms, and stout, graceful limbs, 
and long, flowing tails, "came from Hanover and are 
bred here, and are not now found elsewhere." "They 
look handsome in harness and are driven when the 
Queen goes to open the House of Parliament." The 
blacks are also magnificent horses. Two men sleep 
here near these sixteen fine horses. I saw fine red 
and black Morocco harness, gold and silver-plated, 
enough to stock several stores and add interest to a 
state fair. Some sets were made of one piece of 
leather and elaborately ornamented with bright metals. 
Here were dozens of handsome saddles. I was also 
shown a number of handsome carriages and gilded 
chariots of state, brilliant with paint and gold-leaf, 
and ornamented with carvings, images, crowns, coats 



l60 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

of arms, etc. Here was the queen's state carriage, 
one hundred and twenty-six years old, weighing four 
tons and heavily gilded. These things occupied many 
spacious apartments. The attendants are pleasant, 
agreeable men and are not permitted to take "tips" 
or fees from the visitors. 



0^« 



CHAPTER XIV. 

SOME PEOPLE AND PLACES BEYOND THE SEA. 

QUESTIONS ANSWERED A FLOATING VOLCANO — WAR- 
HORSES WITH WHITE MANES OCEAN ROBED IN 

CRIMSON, GREEN AND GOLD PEOPLE AND CLOUDS 

SMILE — PLACES VISITED THE LARGEST CITY THE 

MOST BEAUTIFUL CITY THE LARGEST SHIP — WHERE 

CANNON SHOOK PURPLE HEATHER COUSINS MET IN 

ANCIENT AND FAMOUS CITIES A WALK ON THE 

MOORS TURF CAKES AND MILK — A POPULAR AU- 
THORESS WITH EDWARD ON HIS LOCOMOTIVE 

UNCLE JAMES'S BLESSING KIND FRIENDS MENTIONED. 

Many friends and readers since my return have 
asked me the following questions: "Did you have a 
good time?" "Where did you go ?" "Did you find 
friends there?" This letter may answer these ques- 
tions, and then I will go on to Paris. 

Yes, I had a good time, a pleasant time, a grand 
time. For many years I had an intense longing to 
visit my father's native land — the land he left fifty- 
seven years ago last May. 

On the 14th of July I went to New York and on 

the 1 6th of that month I sailed for England on board 

the "Servia," a magnificent ship of the famous Cunard 

line. This ship is so large that when you promenade 
(ii) 



1 62 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

around her once you walk one-fifth of a mile, and it 
takes five large locomotives to haul the coal she needs 
to cross the ocean once. It reminded me of a floating 
volcano. The firemen shovel two hundred and five 
tons of coal per day into her furnaces to keep her 
engines of ten thousand horse-power at work breasting 
the awful billows at the rate of a mile in three and a 
half minutes. 

I have told you how pleasant I found it on the sea 
morning, noon and night, and how grand the ocean 
is when it lifts up its waves like dark war-horses with 
foaming nostrils and white manes. At the sight of 
these things multitudes trembled and turned deathly 
pale, and retreated to their swaying and restless couches. 
How great fish leaped above the waves and whales in 
the distance spouted columns of white water into the 
air, while the sun wedded sea and sky under a canopy 
of glorious light ; and, when we came near Ireland, 
the white sea-birds circled above us and the sea turned 
a beautiful green, and in the evening the setting sun 
painted the old ocean a thing of beauty, in robes of 
crimson, green and gold. How pleasant, helpful and 
companionable were the officers, crew and passengers. 
How cool, fine and dry I found the weather in Eng- 
land — so fine that millions of men and women could 
not remember a similar summer ; so fine that the 
wheat was harvested in August instead of September. 
How kind relatives and friends were, and of the many 
great exhibitions open this jubilee year. 

I landed at Liverpool and went to Manchester, 
Leeds, York, Whitby, Scarborough, Hanmanby, Shef- 



PEOPLE AND PLACES BEYOND THE SEA. 1 63 

field, Birmingham, Leamington, Warwick, Coventry, 
Stratford-on-Avon, Oxford, London, Canterbury, 
Dover, Calais, Amiens, Paris, Versailles, Rouen, 
Dieppe, New Haven, Cardiff, Gloucester, Leices- 
ter, Middlesborough, Durham, Berwick, Edinburgh, 
Queen's Ferry, Dunfermline, Sterling, Glasgow, Green- 
ock, Paisley, Dumfries, Stranraer, Larne, Giant's 
Causeway, Portrush, Coleraine, Belfast, Dublin, Ches- 
ter, etc. I saw the largest city, and the most hand- 
some city, and the largest ship. I saw where kings, 
queens, princes, patriots, priests, poets, painters, sol- 
diers and martyrs were born, died, chained, crowned, 
burned, beheaded or buried. Where battles were 
fought near walls and castles that were gray with age 
when Columbus was seeking America. Wide, lonely 
moorlands, where the roar of cannon had shaken the 
purple heather. Broad plains that had smiled with 
fields full of sheep and wheat for a thousand years. 
Where Josephine dined, and danced, and wept, and 
slept, and where the ashes of the great Napoleon are 
sealed in dark marble. Where the blood of hundreds 
of communists soaked deep into the pavement. Where 
Marshal Ney lies entombed without a stone. Where 
Abelard and Heloise, " unfortunate lovers," lie in effi- 
gies of marble, side by side, upon a high tomb, look- 
ing into the sky. 

At ancient York, where the great, gray Minster 
stands on the gravelly plain, and the old city wall 
curves in beauty upon the smooth, green mound, and 
Roman coffins surround the ruins of St. Mary's Ab- 
bey and the " Multangular Tower," I found cousin 



164 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

James, an excellent machinist, who gave me a cordial 
welcome. 

At Sleight's, three miles from the sea, on the river 
Esk, I met cousin John, as station-master, on the 
Northeastern Railway. He succeeded his father here 
some years ago, and together they have filled the posi- 
tion more than fifty years. This pleasant village is in 
a cool, green valley, where two vales meet, and re- 
minds me much of Huntington creek valley, from 
Waterton to Harveyville. John and I walked to 
" Falling Foss," a few miles over the high, ling-cover- 
ed moor, to where a stream of water falls down a 
forty-two foot ledge into a shady and romantic glen. 
We saw the heather, or ling, in bloom, where the jock 
sheep and the grouse love to abide the year around. 

We entered a house, and the good woman placed 
turf cakes and milk before us on a little, round table, 
and we enjoyed the simple repast much. We saw her 
baking the cakes in a covered frying-pan, a turf fire 
with smouldering turf also upon the lid. The cakes 
were nice, like a short cake, the size of a tea plate, 
and nearly an inch thick. I afterwards found that 
cousin had asked her to "surprise" us in this agree- 
able manner. The farmer's wife told us she had a 
deeper pan, or kettle, which they called a " hang-on- 
oven," in which bread and pies are baked. 

We returned through woods, and groves, and gar- 
dens, along by stone walls, and through the breckons 
(brakes) where rabbits resort, and we went into the 
" Hermitage," a circular room cut in a large, gray 
rock; on by old alum mines, and on to where "John 



PEOPLE AND PLACES BEYOND THE SEA. 1 65 

Allen" had set up a great marble lion's head, through 
the mouth of which rushed clean, sweet water. 

The following lines were copied from the metal 
panels : 

" Man made the trough, the water God bestows, 
Then .praise His name, from whom the blessing flows. 
" Hettipsyke, 185b. JOHN ALLEN." 

" Weary stranger, here you see 
An emblem of true charity ; 
Rightly my bounty I bestow, 
Made by a kindly hand to flow : 
And I have fresh supplies from Heaven 
For every cup of water given. 
" Hempsyke, 1838. John Allen." 

" The stream is pure as if from Heaven it ran, 
And while I praise the Lord, I'll thank the man. 
" 1864. Tramp." 

At Whitby I met Miss Mary Linskill, daughter of 
my uncle, the late Thomas Linskill. She is a popular 
English authoress, widely known in England, and ad- 
mired by many people in this country, who appreciate 
pure fiction of a high order. She is an able and very 
interesting writer, being one of the best lady writers 
England has ever produced. She and her mother re- 
side in a neat little cottage in Stakesbyvale. When I 
was there she had recently returned from a tour 
through France, Switzerland, Germany and Italy, with 
which she was much pleased. I dined a number of 
times with her and her mother, and the occasions 
were indeed pleasant. Miss Linskill's great story this 
year is entitled, " In Exchange for a Soul," and is be- 
ing published in the "Sunday Magazine," London, 



l66 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

and is also reprinted in this country. There appears 
to be a very brilliant future before her. 

Cousin Edward Linskill and his wife, and daugh- 
ter, May, at West Cliff, Whitby, treated me with 
marked courtesy and kindness, and here were my head- 
quarters while in and about Whitby, my father's native 
town. Edward is an engine-driver on the North- 
Eastern railway, where he has been employed more 
than thirty years. I might tell you how he took me 
up on his engine and how we dashed up the green 
valley of the Esk drawing the passenger train with 
almost the speed of the swallow ; how we thundered 
over bridges and whizzed under viaducts ; rolled along 
embankments and roared through cuts, with the breath 
of summer on one cheek and a chilly blast on the 
other, if you moved your face beyond the shield or 
side of the small cab. When a young boy he went 
to live in the country with the great engineer, George 
Stephenson, but he soon asked to be allowed to go 
into the machine shops at Newcastle-on-Tyne, when 
railroading was in its infancy, and how, when about 
nineteen years of age, he was given an engine to run 
on the "third railroad in England." 

I have mentioned his bright and active wife and 
his daughter, May, clever in drawing, painting and in 
music on the piano and violin. I called on Uncle 
James Linskill, at Sandsend, a number of times. He 
was nearly eighty-one years old and was feeble in body, 
but bright in mind. He was expecting to depart this 
life every day, and he said I had "come only just in 



PEOPLE AND PLACES BEYOND THE SEA. 1 67 

time." He wrote a few lines in my book at the request 
of my sister. He did it without glasses and the writing 
was very neat. 

Before leaving Whitby Edward and I called upon 
Mr. John Stewart, a retired tailor, a kind and interest- 
ing old gentleman of eighty-two years, who lives in a 
pleasant place on West Cliff with his daughter and 
her husband, Captain Pearson, who has often sailed 
the blue seas in past years. This was a very pleasant 
family, and refreshments of various kinds were placed 
before us. But why mention this, for you can scarcely 
enter a house in Great Britain without being nearly 
forced to eat and drink. Cousin Anna Stainthrope, of 
Middlesborough, prepared five meals in the twenty-two 
hours I was there and then accused me of not eating. 

At Whitby I also called upon the Thistles, Wad- 
dingtons, Bryans, Nicholsons, Gaskins, Ripleys, Laws 
and Watsons. I also met Messrs. Payne, Stroud, 
Jackson, Hardy, Purcival, Greenbury, Fisher, Robin- 
son, Jonathan and others. At Fulsgrave, near Scar- 
borough, I met Alfred Linskill as postmaster and 
dealer in stationery, confectionery and toys. At Leam- 
ington, one of the most beautiful cities in central 
-England, I found cousin Emma Hodgman and hus- 
band and child. In London I found cousin John, a 
dealer in jet jewelry; cousin Henry, a jet-worker 
and carver, and cousin Thomas, a carpenter and 
builder. At Hanmanby I found a Thomas Linskill, a 
farm hand, but we could not trace a relationship. I 
mention these, for they are the people I met by my 
name. There are very few of the name in England. 



1 68 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

One cousin said that he thought our name, centuries 
ago, had come from Norway. 

At North Shields I found one of the chief streets 
labeled "Linskill Street." I asked Charles Jenkins if 
there were any of the people of the name in the place, 
and he said, " No, Captain William Linskill has re- 
moved to Cambridge to educate his son there. He 
was a captain in the army in India for many years. 
He is a grandee, a rich man, and married a titled lady. 
He was a son of Colonel Linskill. There is a ' Lin- 
skill Terrace' and a ' Linskill Place,' also in the city." 
" Where is his magnificent mansion ?" " Oh, he took it 
down before he left. He did not want anyone else to 
live in it." I thought this too eccentric to be lovable. 
" Land Agent Jackson is his agent here." 

At North Burton I met Stephen Pudsey, and his 
sister, and her family, who also treated me very kindly. 
Here is where my father learned his trade with the 
elder Pudsey, and passed some pleasant years of his 
early life. He is well remembered here yet, over a 
gap of nearly three score years. I heard of Rev. Mr. 
Linskill in Warwickshire, but did not meet him. In 
Paris I met a number of pleasant American tourists of 
both sexes. In Cardiff, Wales, I visited Edward Ed- 
wards and James Edwards, brothers of Geo. A. 
Edwards, of Wilkes-Barre. They made it very pleas- 
ant for me the twenty-six hours I was in the city. 

While in Scotland I called on Alexander Bennett, 
senior and junior, on James Morgan and family, on 
Andrew Swan and family, and on George Sharp and 
family, to all of whom I was recommended by Charles 



PEOPLE AND PLACES BEYOND THE SEA. 1 69 

Graham, of Scranton, Superintendent of Motive Power 
for the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western Railroad, 
and by all of whom I was very kindly treated and en- 
tertained. And as I told you before, I was well all 
the time on sea and land; so now you know where I 
went, and why I had a pleasant time. 



CHAPTER XV. 

FROM LONDON TO PARIS, VIA DOVER AND CALAIS. 

A HIGHWAY UPHELD ON POLISHED GRANITE PILLARS 

BARBERS AND THEIR WORK MOVING OUT OF LONDON 

HOPS IN KENT NINE TUNNELS MARY ANDERSON 

AND MOONLIGHT IN CANTERBURY'S GLORY DOVER | 

ITS CHALK CLIFFS, ITS BARRACKS, ITS BOASTING CAN- 
NON — MARTIN'S PICTURE OF CUT WOODS LEAVE ENG- 
LAND BEFORE MIDNIGHT " CAFFA " IN "CALLA" 

BEFORE STARTING FOR " PARRA " — HE KNEW THE 

STOMACH BETTER THAN THE TONGUE LOCOMOTIVES 

BLACK, GREEN, YELLOW, BROWN— THE ENGINE SNORT- 
ED ABOVE A TEMPEST OF FRENCH WORDS RUSHING 

THROUGH OATFIELDS AND WILLOWS, BY FLOCKS AND 
STILL WATERS, IN " SUNNY FRANCE" THE SEA DI- 
VORCED ENGLAND FROM FRANCE AMIENS TREES 

LIKE SOLDIERS IN PARIS LONESOME WITHOUT DIN- 
NER AND FRIENDS — THREE BOTTLES OF WINE — COOK 
& SON MET A YANKEE IN "PLACE VENDOME" OBE- 
LISK OF LUXOR PLACE DE LA CONCORDE ARC DE 

TRIOMPHE CHAMPS ELYSEES, ETC. 

On the afternoon of August 26th, I bid "good 
bye" to cousins in London, and walked over to the 
Holborn street station, on the London, Chatham and 
Dover Railway, and bought a third-class ticket to 



FROM LONDON TO PARIS. \J\ 

Paris for one sovereign and two shillings. This im- 
mense station is near the beautiful and grand " Hol- 
born Viaduct" in great London. Did I tell you that 
Holborn, one of the busy, broad streets of London, 
formerly ran down into a hollow or vale near Snow 
Hill? and how the poor horses would slip and fall on 
their knees going up and down this hill with thous- 
ands of tons of goods and millions of passengers; 
that many horses fell down there to get up no more; 
and finally Christian Charity and Common Business 
met under the auspices of Royalty and Peasantry, and 
this great highway was lifted up out of the valley and 
set upon many mighty pillars of polished Scotch 
granite, and now traffic and travel roll over on a high, 
broad level, while busy Farringdon street runs below 
as usual on its way to Ludgate Circus and the Thames? 
The viaduct is fourteen hundred feet long and eighty 
feet wide. 

Having an hour to wait, I went into "the barber 
shop and was shaved. The charge for shaving in 
these kingdoms is from one penny to three-pence. 
This barber asked me a few questions, and I said " Yes" 
to one of them, and he put a very few drops of bay- 
rum on my chin and said, " Sixpence," (twelve cents). 
If I had said "Yes" again, I presume he would have 
charged me a shilling or more. I presume the reader 
knows that a penny is about equal to two cents, and a 
shilling is about twenty-four cents, and that a pound 
or sovereign is worth about five dollars. 

Many places in England you can get shaved for a 
penny, but this is too cheap to be satisfactory. The 



172 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

chair is a common chair, or maybe a bar-room chair, 
with a narrow board running up the back to steady 
your head; the razor is dull, and the boy's thin hands 
are cold, and he is in a hurry, for he can not take 
much time for a penny; he cuts your chin, and you 
wash your own face, and pay a penny or two, and wish 
you were again in America, where you could find a 
comfortable barber chair, and be smoothly and easily 
shaved for ten cents. When I was nearly ready to 
leave London, I did find a place where the chairs 
were comfortable, and they shaved with keen, smooth 
razors, and the charge was only three-pence. The 
barbers of Whitby did pretty good work considering 
the ridiculously small price they charged. On the sea 
we paid a shilling for being shaved. In Dublin I 
found a good and busy barber shop. There were a 
dozen chairs, and all of them were engaged. The 
charge was three-pence. 

An American in England visited a barber shop 
and the barber asked him some questions, and he 
kept on saying "Yes" until the barber had dressed 
the hair on his face and head, cleaned his ears, colored 
his whiskers, shampooed him and taken the tartar off 
his teeth, and the bill was " seven-and-six " (nearly 
two dollars), which he paid under protest and then 
called upon the burgess or some one in authority and 
wished his money back ; but the judge could not help 
him, only to tell him he must ask the price of such 
services in future and book up his countrymen by 
telling them to make bargains before the work is done. 

We average Americans will not forgive that fellow 



FROM LONDON TO PARIS. 1 73 

for "giving us away," and we pronounce him a greater 
fool in the court than he was in the barber shop. Let 
him brighten up his own ears and teeth or pay for it. 
And the man who colors his hair — oh, pshaw ! he isn't 
worth pen and ink ; pack him off with the woman 
who paints. But, I presume I must tell you about 
prices and other things here at another time. 

At 4:15 p. m. the train started for Paris via Dover 
and Calais. We run out of the city on the "high 
level." This road runs on a high, broad, brick wall, 
two, three or four stories from the ground, and as we 
look out we see thousands of acres of house-roofs 
covered with terra cotta chimney tops — all the way 
from ten to fifty on each house, for each fire-place 
where they burn soft coal needs a chimney and a 
chimney-sweep. Perhaps London will soon have a 
great "Valley of Hinnom" where she will burn all 
the coal, and fuel, and smoke, and filth, and lead in the 
light and warmth and power by pipe and wire, and 
thus leave vast, populous old London free from smoke 
and dust. She filters sewers and rivers, and why not 
filter the air by fire, water and other chemicals ? This 
"high level" wall is arched and the vacant places 
under the railroad are occupied as places to store coal, 
lime, lumber, flour, feed, grain and nearly all kinds of 
merchandise. 

After leaving " Heme Hill" we come into a green, 
pleasant country where stand rows of neat, cream- 
colored brick houses. At "Dulwick" it still looks 
city-like. Now we pass through a long tunnel. Eng- 
lishmen would rather run through a mountain than 



1/4 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

around or over it. They would as soon cut a tunnel 
through rock as to cut a mountain of rock into arches, 
keystones and viaduct pillars. We roll on through 
towns and villages and farm land. A gentleman said, 
" Kent is one of the finest counties in England ; Devon 
and Cornwall are also fine agricultural counties." 

We pass through Rochester, Chatham and Canter- 
bury. A gentleman pointed out a large, round temple 
on a distant hill, which he said the " Latter Day Saints " 
had started, but had fallen into bankruptcy before they 
had got it finished. At Canterbury we saw from the 
train the fine, old and picturesque cathedral. This 
famous cathedral is beloved by Mary Anderson, and 
she is said to be the only person who has been per- 
mitted to view it internally by moonlight. Here we 
pass through three or four tunnels. There are nine 
tunnels between London and Dover. Now we are 
among the hop-fields of Kent. There are hundreds 
of acres of hops standing straight and orderly like 
soldiers clad in green. These hops bring the largest 
price. 

As we approach Dover the white chalk crops out 
here and there, and a farmer said, " We do not like it 
to be too near to the surface." There, near a wall by 
a railway station, is a stalk of Indian corn, the first I 
have seen since leaving America. In England wheat 
is called corn. As darkness settles down we enter old 
Dover, with her high, white cliffs of chalk standing 
on almost every side. I have two hours to wait for 
the boat to Calais; I leave my travelling bags at the 
cloak-room, and pay two-pence for each, that they 



FROM LONDON TO PARIS. 175 

may be taken care of, and then I go to find John Mar- 
tin, Warden of the Convict Prison here, and hand him 
a letter which his brother Alfred in Plymouth, Amer- 
ica, had sent by me. Mr. Martin was found, and wel- 
comed me as his brother's friend. He is a pleasant 
man, and has been in the service of his country for 
thirty years. Mrs. Martin and a son were visiting in 
Cornwall. Mr. Martin showed me a handsome round 
table of his own make, for which he had received a 
prize at an exhibition. It was finely inlaid with 
11,000 pieces of mahogany, satin wood, ebony, and 
other fine woods. After a few minutes visit he accom- 
panied me to the station, and to the boat, and as we 
walked we talked, and I found that the long, straight 
row of lights there are the lamps along the Esplanade 
or water front; those lights there, as if a mountain 
had windows in it, are at the barracks where four regi- 
ments of soldiers are quartered, and this high hill is 
the South Cliff looming far above the old church tower 
and the railway station. 

Yonder is where the old cannon stands menacing 
sunny, fun-loving France, and carved on its brazen 
side are these words of threatening and promise: 
"Sponge me out and keep me clean, and I'll carry a 
ball to Calais Green." As the distance is twenty-one 
miles across the channel, where two seas delight to 
meet, it is probably a "brazen, loud-mouthed lie." 

"Up that street lives John , the largest man in 

England ; he weighs over forty stone, more than five 
hundred and sixty pounds ! An ordinary man weighs 
say ten stone. He keeps a public house. Here we 



I76 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

are on the boat." " Yes, leave the satchels there. Tell 
Alfred I would like to see him. Good night ; a safe 
and pleasant journey. Try to stop when you return 
and see Dover by daylight!" "Thank you; good 
bye ! " 

At 10:10 p. m. our Channel boat "cuts loose" from 
old England and we "strike out" over the waves for 
France. I wrapped my garments about me, and while 
various specimens of humanity ran to and fro and 
reclined here and there, I drew myself behind a post 
to escape the cold, damp draft, and, half dozing, we 
reached Calais, France, at midnight and saw the 
revolving, and colored, and electric lights blazing all 
along the shores to guide us aright. The sea was 
quiet and I think we all escaped illness. We, or many 
of us, entered a railway station and reclined on hard 
cushioned benches, waiting for the train to start. 
About 4 a. m. a man came in and awoke us, and, as 
he spoke French, I did not know what was the pro- 
gramme, but presumed the train was about to go. 
But, when he came tome and said "caffa" two or 
three times, I concluded he meant, come to breakfast 
before starting for " Parry." Calais is pronounced 
" Cally." I arose to follow him and turned to look at 
my luggage, when he said something to a man in the 
room and by signs assured me it would be all right. 
I and some others followed him out around several 
lonely corners and I began to wish I was at the station 
with my bags. We entered a plain-looking place and 
soon a bowl of hot and excellent coffee and milk was 
placed before me. I enjoyed it much and paid a half 



FROM LONDON TO PARIS. ™ 

franc or franc, I do not remember which. Yes that 
neighbor in a foreign land knew what my American 
stomach needed at 4 o'clock in the morning before 
starting for "Parry/' where we could not ante until 
nearly noontide. 

About 5 a. m. there was a hurrying to and fro a 
rumble of trunks and boxes, a ringing of bells a 
tempest of French words, and the iron horse snuffed 
the cool, morning air and rushed out with us, away 
trom the sea toward distant Paris. 

My last week's letter left me on my way to Paris 
drawn by a black locomotive, the first I had seen since 
leaving America, for the locomotives in England are 
pamted some green, others brown, yellow and drab 
Did I tell you that the locomotives in England have 
no cow-catchers? They are not needed, for England 
will not have anything on her railroads but engines 
and cars. Here the locomotives have head-light" in 
England a small lantern at each side of the engine on 
the front, answers the purpose. ' 

Beg pardon, we are on the road to Paris. Perhaps 
I can do no better than to copy what I wrote in my 
memorandum book, as we rolled through France at 

,1 !r 1 ^ °i m ° re mil£S an hour - "August 
27th, at Calais, in France; somewhat cloudy; left for 

Pans at 5 a. m. Level country; oats harvest, many 

fields; hundreds of acres without trees, in this respect 

unlike England. Cars in compartments, third-class 

have no cushions, seats flat, backs straight, and the 

car is not clean. The conductor walks on a narrow 

foot-board outside, holding on to an iron rod running 



I78 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

along the side of the car. The houses have pitching 
roofs, covered with red tiles. Fields and fields of 
oats; in France, as in England, the harvester swings 
his scythe toward the standing grain and leaves the 
swath leaning against the uncut grain. Here is a man 
cradling or mowing, and a woman is binding. 

Here men are hauling away wheat or barley, and 
yonder a woman loads the grain which a man pitches 
upon the wagon. The white chalk crops out of the 
banks here as in the south of England, all of which 
makes some people think that England and France 
were once united by land instead of divided by water. 
It is quite probable that the Atlantic and German 
Oceans wishing to embrace, dashed through the chan- 
nel, and now not living harmoniously, their contend- 
ing and foaming make myriads ill. 

Here and there are wind-mills, and here is a stone- 
quarry. Now we pass through a long cut of rock and 
sand. The French passengers, though unacquainted, 
chat pleasantly with each other. Now we come 
among some hills. A man rings a bell energetically, 
just before the train leaves a station, and active 
Frenchmen dressed in livery run this way and that, 
all the time, earnestly talking and calling out orders. 

Here we roll along a high embankment. Over my 
head are painted the words, " Cinquante Places," which 
signifies that there is room for five passengers on each 
side, but as there are but three or four of us for ten 
seats, we are not crowded. Now we see the sea on 
our right, and soon we are at Bologne. 



FROM LONDON TO PARIS. 1 79 

Going on, we run across low, flat land, thousands 
of acres, cows grazing near creeks and pools of still 
water. Yonder are thickets and rows of willows along 
creeks and fields; there are piles of peat, or turf. 
Here, in a wide meadow are say three hundred sheep, 
first I have seen. More meadows with rows of tall, 
slender trees between. Train rushes fifty miles an 
hour along a small river with banks willow-walled. 
Good vegetables in gardens on islands and among 
marshy places — a few poor apples seen — good road 
made of stone. 

Here is old Amiens — a large place, grand cathedral, 
with tall spire ; on through a region of vegetable gar- 
dens. Yonder are thousands of acres of land sloping 
off on to hills ; no fences, no trees, no stone walls, yet, 
some hedges ; no large barns. At last I see a low, 
wood -crowned mountain. Thousands of acres of 
wheat and oats in bundles, shocks and stacks. Coun- 
try looks dry and brown. 

This has been a dry summer for this portion of 
our globe. Now the fields are large, square and 
smooth ; the trees on the hills stand straight and 
trim, like well-drilled soldiers. More potatoes and 
vegetables ; hedges well-kept ; the sun does not shine 
quite so brightly. 

I see we are nearing great, gay Paris, for the engine 
seems to have imbibed a new life. We rush as if the 
happiness of families and nations, time and eternity, 
hung upon a few moments of time. We are in the 
suburbs of Paris and roll on in a long way until we 
stand still in a wide, busy, stone station in the heart 



l8o IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

of the city. I walk out with my satchels as if I was 
not a stranger ; the porters do not annoy me. I pass 
on along grand streets and by fine buildings, looking 
for a friend, looking for dinner and wishing I could 
speak French, yes, almost wishing I had not come. 
If I had one lonely hour while I was absent, it was 
this first hour in Paris, before I had taken dinner and 
before I had found an English-speaking person. 

In front of gay hotels and restaurants sat hundreds 
of handsome, well-dressed people around small round 
tables, which were covered with wine bottles and 
glasses and sandwiches, or some kind of luncheon, 
I entered a neat-looking place and after a while man- 
aged to make myself understood so well that the 
polite waiter brought me a sandwich and coffee. Then 
I asked for dessert, but the waiter looked perplexed ; 
then I said, "tart, pie, etc.," when he went out and 
brought in three bottles of wine. I shook my head. 
A handsome, talkative woman at a table looked friendly 
and wise, and spoke to the waiter, and he said "Plum 
pudding ? " and I thought it a good time to say " Yes,"' 
so I nodded "Yes," and in a short time he brought in 
three little round cakes iced in fine sugar. They were 
very rich and much like moist fruit cake. I dared to 
eat two of them and then paid my little bill, which, I 
think, was two francs and forty centimes, or forty-eight 
cents. Then I went out, gazed on as an object of 
interest, if not of pity. 

Remembering Cook, that famous Englishman, who 
has an office in nearly every great city, to sell tickets 
and furnish guides to tourists, I essayed to find his 



FROM LONDON TO PARIS. I 8 I 

place. After a good many questions and a walk of a 
mile or two through the grand streets of great Paris, 
I came to a busy centre, where a building was inscrib- 
ed, "9 Rue Scribe, Thomas Cook & Son." Here the 
clerks spoke English, and sold me "Cook's Guide to 
Paris," and directed me to the Hotel St. Petersbourg, 
in that vicinity. They seemed kind and reliable, so I 
bought a ticket of them for a few days' board at the 
hotel mentioned, for which I paid at the rate of two 
dollars a day. 

I went to the hotel and was shown a very pleasant 
room, and was informed that the dinner hour would 
be at half-past six, and breakfast anytime from eight 
to eleven; two meals a day, as we were expected to 
lunch somewhere "'mid pleasures and palaces," in or 
near the city. Then I sauntered out and soon found 
myself gazing up at the great column of cannon-metal 
in the "Place Vendome." While there I saw a man 
also quietly looking around, and I asked, " Do you 
speak English?" He replied, "Yes, sometimes; my 
name is Hiram Holt; I am from Maine, United 
States, and I make and sell a patent hay-knife. I left 
America, June 3d, and have been with my wife and 
daughter through Europe." This famous and tall 
column, bearing aloft a bronze statue, stands in a 
granite-paved square, smaller than Public Square, 
Wilkes-Barre, Pa. 

Going on I found myself in a grand, and beautiful, 
and historic quarter. Here, near great and beautiful 
fountains, stands the obelisk of Luxor, from Egypt, 
sister to our Cleopatra Needle in Central Park, and one 



I 82 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

of the oldest and finest monuments on earth. Yes, 
this is the " Place de la Concorde." This fine, open 
place, full of fountains and statues and surrounded by- 
columned and domed palaces, and temples, is one of 
the most historic and magnificent places in Europe. 

Yonder is the Seine with its grand bridges, and 
graceful boats, and grove-lined banks; yonder the 
Madeleine Church with many vast columns, yonder 
the Louvre palace full of thousands of the finest paint- 
ings and other things of beauty. Here the garden of 
the Tuileries, and yonder, a mile and a quarter away, 
on a slight eminence, with the sky for a background, 
stands the immense, grand and sombre "Arc de 
Triomphe," spanning the magnificent Champs Elysees, 
perhaps the most beautiful street in the world, espe- 
cially at night. It is near the dinner hour, and as my 
letter is quite long enough, I will close here. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

PARIS : PLACES OF BEAUTY AND PLACES OF BLOOD. 

PLACE DE LA CONCORDE THE GLITTERING KNIFE — A 

LAKE OF BLOOD PRANZINA BEHEADED — BAPTISM OF 

BLOOD FOREIGN ARMIES LIONS, BEARS, EAGLES, 

DRAGONS GILDED DOMES TREMBLE — A NEEDLE 

WEIGHING TWO HUNDRED AND FORTY TONS ASKING 

OTHERS TO DIE FOR US CHAMPS ELYSEES, A STREET 

UNEQUALED A BALL-ROOM ONE AND A HALF MILES 

LONG, FLANKED BY TWO KINGDOMS, NATURE AND ART, 
FULL OF LIGHT, MUSIC, BEAUTY AND WINE — THE ARC 

DE TRIOMPHE, A GLORY TO UPHOLD GLORY COST 

MILLIONS PICTURES IN MARBLE AND BRONZE 

TWELVE PROUD, GAY AVENUES BOW AT ITS FEET — IT 

SHOWS US A WIDE PANORAMA OF MAGNIFICENCE 

AT DINNER LINEN, SILVER, CRYSTAL, BROADCLOTH, 

SILK, LACE, SILVER HANDS, GOLD FINGERS, MIRRORS, 
WINE, FLOWERS AND FOUNTAINS — AN HOUR AND A 
HALF GOING FROM SOUP AND FISH TO WINE, GRAPES 
AND PEACHES. 

At the close of last week's letter, the writer stood 
in the Place de la Concorde, near the Egyptian obelisk, 
where the Guillotine once stood in an awful lake of 
human blood ; blood that had gushed from the head- 
less bodies of men and women of high degree, in the 



I84 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

revolutionary days, when fair, fickle, glory-loving 
France waded through blood to find something better 
than she had known. I fancied I heard the sobs of 
children, the groans of loving friends, the screams of 
victims as the keen and glittering knife fell with 
strokes more deadly than those of lightning. 

For readers who have not seen a Guillotine, I will 
say, it is like two stout posts about eight feet high and 
two feet apart, between which slides up a broad, heavy 
knife, and when the victim or criminal is securely 
bound on the block, the cord is jerked and the knife 
falls, severing the head from the body. 

Murderers are still executed in this manner, and 
when I was there, August 31st, Pranzina was Guillo- 
tined in front of the Prison de la Roquetteat5 o'clock 
in the morning. Here the day and hour of an execu- 
tion is not announced, for it would attract too large a 
crowd. The condemned person is supplied with fine 
food, wine and cigars, but he does not know the hour 
he is to die until about two hours before the time. 
Many people waited around the old Prison de la 
Roquette for days and nights to see the ghastly spec- 
tacle — the beheading of a human being. 

As I have been walking and writing, " 'mid pleas- 
ures and palaces," castles, cathedrals, art galleries, and 
ruins, for weeks the reader may shrink from this bap- 
tism of blood, so I will not now point out the many 
places of blood in this grand city, but the reader may 
as well know that near where I stood that afternoon, 
thousands of human beings had met violent deaths; 



PARIS: PLACES OF BEAUTY, ETC. 1 85 

many beheaded, others burned, hanged, stoned and 
trampeled. 

On those broad, solid pavements, at different 
periods, foreign armies had encamped, with strange 
banners emblazoned with lions, bears, unicorns, eagles, 
vultures and dragons. Here the bright bayonets of 
foes, and the clang of scabbards worn by enemies, 
were seen and heard, while the tall columns, fine 
marble statues, and palaces, and gilded domes trem- 
bled as great dark-mouthed cannon from distant 
lands, wheeling into line, thundered the deep bass of 
the Empire's dirge. Yes, more than once had foreign 
foes here placed a strong, bloody hand on the fair, 
white throat of guilty France. 

And here Frenchmen had rushed upon French- 
men, in dark days, and communistic times, and glis- 
tening bayonets turned red, and cannon-belched iron 
balls, and fire, and smoke, and the murderous Mitrail- 
leuse hurled its leaden hail, while curses, groans and 
shrieks, pierced the blue curtain that rolled above the 
cobble stones once more, cemented with human blood. 
Yonder, behind a cross-crowned altar, in that magnifi- 
cently-pillared temple, hundreds of communists had 
been shot, stabbed, and crushed into hideous, bloody 
clay. Now, near this beautiful obelisk, which is a 
handsome tapering stone, seventy-six feet high, and 
weighing two hundred and forty tons, and standing 
on a block of granite weighing ninety-six tons, are 
two immense and fine fountains, throwing rivers of 
bright water into the air, which descending in beauty, 
seem striving to wash away the awful stains that have 



I 86 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

marred the place. Truly, sparkling water looks better 
in a place of Concord than thick, red blood. 

The following lines from a guide-book are so inter- 
esting, that I make room for them here: 

" Place de la Concorde, the finest place in Paris, 
and, indeed, in Europe. It is situated between the 
Garden of the Tuileries and the Champs Elysees. 
From the centre of the place, where stands the Obelisk 
of Luxor, sister monolith to Cleopatra's Needle, can 
be seen the Arc de Triomphe, the Madeleine, the Pal- 
ace of the Louvre, the Corps Legislatif, or House of 
Commons, and many other fine public buildings. It 
was completed in its present form in 1854. 

"This site has a tragic history. Originally a waste 
ground, it was reclaimed in 1748, after the peace of 
Aix la Chapelle, and a statue of Louis XV. was erected 
there by the municipal council of Paris. The place 
then received the name Place Louis XV. 

"On the 30th May, 1770, at a display of fire-works 
to celebrate the marriage of the Dauphin, afterwards 
Louis XVI., with Marie Antoinette, a panic arose from 
some unexplained cause, which resulted in twelve hun- 
dred persons being crushed to death or suffocated and 
two thousand seriously injured. 

"During the Reign of Terror in 1793, the Guillo- 
tine was erected on the spot where now stands the 
obelisk. Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette were the 
first victims. Between January of that year and May, 
1795, upwards of two thousand persons were here 
decapitated. 

"In 1799 the square was named Place de la Con- 



PARIS: PLACES OF BEAUTY, ETC. I 87 

corde. It was afterwards renamed after Louis XV., 
and in 1826 after Louis XVI. In 1830 it was again 
christened Place de la Concorde, and the Luxor obe- 
lisk, given to Louis Phillippe, was erected where it 
now stands. 

"The obelisk is a monolith, or solid piece of stone, 
seventy-six feet high and weighing two hundred and 
forty tons. The gray granite pedestal on which it 
stands, is a single block of ninety-six tons weight. 

"The eight fine statues in the square represent the 
chief towns of France, viz., Lyons, Marseilles, Bor- 
deaux, Nantes, Rouen, Brest, Lille and Strasburg (now 
German). 

" Foreign armies have been encamped on the Place 
de la Concorde three times." 

Let us hope that the world will very soon become 
so Christianized and civilized that nations shall find 
health without the violent letting of blood ; that men 
and women may learn to be happy without going about 
asking others to die for them. It is high time that 
the practice of sacrificing human beings should " per- 
ish from the earth." This place at night is all aglitter 
with thousands of gas lights, and let us hope that 
scenes of blood may never again cause these fountains 
to blush and the lights to pale. 

Yonder, a mile and a quarter away, stands the 
grand Arc de Triomphe, forming a blue arch above 
the horizon. After a walk of half an hour I arrived 
at its base, having passed along the famous Champs 
Elysees. 



l88 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

This magnificent boulevard, with its broad, smooth 
driveway and wide walks and rows of trees and fount- 
ains and easy seats and wine and concert groves, is 
more than eleven hundred feet wide, extending from 
the river Seine to a row of light stone palaces. At 
night it is like a fair; yes, like a fair and a ball-room 
and a concert, for all along, amid thousands of gay 
colored lights, are concerts within labyrinths and walls 
of shrubbery, where strains of strange, voluptuous 
music, instrumental and vocal, are heard ; and, while 
colored wines flow in rushing, foamy streams, dancing 
of the wildest and most fantastic forms is going on. 

Here fun, vanity and folly hold High Carnival and 
the devotees for a season seem to hope that pleasures 
have no sting. 

Since my return, people unlearned and young, as 
well as many others, have assured me that they appre- 
ciate these letters from abroad, which they would not 
liave done if they had not understood what I have 
written. Now, that all may understand what I think 
of the Champs Elysees (pronounced Shons E-lee-sa), 
the most beautiful place in Paris, let the reader imag- 
ine a ball-room a mile and a half long, in a beautiful 
grove more than one thousand feet wide ; on one side 
a sparkling river, on the other side a row of marble 
palaces ; at one end a grand granite arch one hundred 
and sixty feet high, at the other end a graceful, im- 
ported obelisk and two great fountains, backed by a 
number of fine, large statues, human and equine, and 
a delightful flower garden; smooth, broad ways through 
the middle for carriages and people on foot; and at 



PARIS: PLACES OF BEAUTY, ETC. I 89 

night this all glittering with light and throbbing with 
exciting music and sparkling with flowing wine, bright 
eyes and fine dress, and this is like what the Champs 
Elysees appeared to me. 

Walking up, inside, about two hundred and fifty 
steps of stone, I find myself upon the top of the Arc 
de Triomphe. This is claimed to be the finest tri- 
umphal arch on earth. It is one hundred and sixty 
feet high, one hundred and forty-six feet broad, and 
seventy-two feet deep. It is arched two ways, that is, 
two avenues cross beneath it at right angles. It was 
commenced in 1806, and not finished until 1836, and 
was designed to commemorate the success and glory 
of Napoleon the Great. It cost nearly two millions 
of dollars, and it bears upon its sides the most magni- 
ficent pictures carved in high relief — great events in 
the history of France and Napoleon. 

It stands on a slight eminence in the "Star" where 
twelve handsome avenues centre at its base. What a 
panorama of glory and beauty is here spread out! 
Thousands of carriages and people are moving quietly 
over the smooth and wood-paved streets. The atmos- 
phere is quite clear. What a contrast with London ! 
Here we can look over the whole great city of two 
millions of laughing and suffering men and women. 

Yonder is the gleaming Seine, and in at least three 
directions are seen mounts in the dim distance where 
fortifications and monuments, or great public buildings 
stand, or are being erected. Yonder, to the north, 
stretches the great, deep green forest of Bois de Bou- 
logne, with its twenty-five thousand acres, containing 



I9O IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

towns, lakes, fountains and palaces. There is historic 
St. Cloud, where the great Napoleon once appeared in 
great splendor with his almost invincible army, bear- 
ing bright banners, and brilliant badges and scarfs. 

Away there is the column of July, 1830, standing 
in the Place de la Bastile. There is the Pantheon 
with its vast dome, and there the two towers and spire 
of the great and ancient Notre Dame Cathedral, and 
nearer stands the Palace Louvre and the Luxembourg. 
Yonder is the lofty gilded dome of the Invalides, a fit- 
ting canopy for the dust of the ambitious Napoleon. 
There, fountain-guarded, stands the beautiful obelisk 
in the Place de la Concorde, and here to the right the 
beautiful and extensive Palace Trocadera rears its two 
lofty towers nearly three hundred feet above the waters 
of the Seine, looking down upon its broad, magnificent 
dome, and the great fountains in a wide garden of 
fragrant beauty. But it is time I descend from this 
enchanting eminence. I bought a book of Paris 
views from the handsome young lady who took charge 
of my umbrella while I admired the gorgeous scene. 

I wish all my readers could see how beautiful it is 
to look down upon a broad boulevard in which stand 
four long rows of beautiful trees, while fine statues 
and fountains sit on diamonded thrones amid the 
sweetest and most brilliant angels of vegetation. The 
young lady smiled and looked somewhat puzzled as 
she wrote, in compliance with my request, her name 
and a short sentence in French in a note-book which 
I carry to supplement my memory. As I had walked 



PARIS: PLACES OF BEAUTY, ETC. I9I 

quite enough, I took a street-car going toward the 

Hotel St. Petersbourg. The street-cars here are clean, 

handsome and neatly painted, and many passengers 
ride outside on top. 

I told you that I put up at a hotel where the clerks 
and waiters, though French, spoke English. At 6:30 
o'clock we entered the dining-saloon in a court, flanked 
by flowers and shrubbery. The canopy was splendid 
with chandeliers, flowers, angels and stars, and the 
walls were resplendent with mirrors and gay curtains 
held in exquisite forms by graceful hands of silk and 
metal. 

But I must hasten ; I cannot stay to tell you fully 
how an army of polite and finely-dressed young men 
quickly supplied the wants of the two hundred or more 
people who chatted in English around the three large 
tables; how wines, liquors and sodas of various colors 
flowed and foamed, while good, clear water filled half 
the goblets ; how a dozen beautiful monogramed plates 
were placed before each guest from time to time as he 
helped himself from liberal waiters, passed at his left 
hand, and ate and conversed for more than an hour. 
Yes, the French are cooks ; they could please me in 
this line greatly and easily. 

We begin with soup, and passing through courses 
of fish, flesh, fowl and vegetables, we go on to puddings, 
etc., and finish with a cluster of grapes or a peach. 
Though for the first half hour at dinner you might 
remain hungry, that sensation would certainly depart 
before the close of the repast. The dinner hour is 



192 



IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 



ended ; it is nearly 8 o'clock ; the city is brilliantly 
lighted up and thousands of visitors from various parts 
of the world are either walking and riding out, or still 
planning where they will pass the evening or greater 
part of the night. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

PARIS: HER PAST, PRESENT; PALACES AND PRISON. 

A CITY PEERLESS IN BEAUTY — BUILDINGS BOW TO WIN- 
NERS OF GLORY EAGLE-MOUNTED BANNERS AND 

NUMIDIAN LIONS C/ESAR IN A WOLF DEN MANY 

PALACES, FEW HOMES GOLDEN ARGOSIES WRECKED 

UNDER RAINBOWS — THE STRANGE WOMAN WOE TO 

THE CITY DYING ALONE — SUNDAY IN PARIS — WINE 

FLOWS BUILDINGS GOING UP, ETC. BOULEVARDS, 

COLUMNS, ARCHES, FOUNTAINS — AN ISLAND OF FLOW- 
ERS FLOATING THROUGH JET TO HONOR THE DEAD 

AND PLEASE THE LIVING — PLACE DE LA BASTILE 

ANGRY MEN LET IN THE SUN-LIGHT AND BEHEAD THE 

KEEPERS ON TOP OF A FLUTED, VIBRATING COLUMN 

OF BRONZE THE TALL, GILDED ANGEL — RED LINES 

IN THE PAVEMENT. 

I now stand in a well-lighted and grand thorough- 
fare in the gay capital of France, nearly four thousand 
miles from the little vale where I was born and where 
Mr. Bennett helped me to find "Paris" on a well-worn 
map. I think of the history of this great city in the 
heart of France. This city, peerless in beauty, where 
banners of love or banners of war are always unfurled ; 
where cannon have boomed in battle and orchestras 
throbbed music for dancers ; where captains, generals. 

(13) 



194 [N LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

kings, queens, emperors and presidents have paraded 
the streets with tossing plumes, while the buildings 
seemed to bow and the city shook with the roar of 
artillery and the swell of music. I thought of the 
time when the wolves howled where the great Louvre 
now stands, and of the later times, when the great 
Caesar marched his mighty legions this way under the 
eagle-mounted banners of invincible Rome, with sol- 
diers bronzed on deserts where roared Numidian lions 
and with helmeted Centurians who had commanded 
at cruel crucifixions in lands beyond the sea. Now it 
is a vast city of many palaces and few homes, where 
great buildings contain myriads of things beautiful, 
curious and ancient. 

Surely, gods have walked along the Seine, or we 
should not here see such palaces and paintings. It is 
nearly 9 o'clock in the evening. There stands the 
Grand Hotel filling a square, and on the broad pave- 
ments around it are hundreds of men and women 
seated at small round tables drinking sparkling wine 
from fairy-like glasses, beautiful as the pink and pearl 
sea-shells on the emerald shore of Dream-land. 

Yonder is the Grand Opera House, covering nearly 
three acres of ground. It cost many millions of francs 
and is considered the grandest opera on earth. I 
walked around it and took five hundred and sixty- 
three long steps in making the circle. It took thirteen 
years to build it. It is not open to-night and I do 
not gain admittance, but they showed me pictures and 
told me of its interior magnificence, which made me 
think of a green and purple isthmus where a royal 



PARIS: HER PAST, PRESENT, ETC. I95 

fleet of golden argosies had wrecked among beautiful 
billows of marble on a silvery beach under rainbows 
that linked heaven and earth. 

Many brilliant stores, shops and bazaars are seen 
in every direction, in some of which you see the 
words, "English spoken here." Many neat and beau- 
tiful street-cars, and 'busses, and cabs, are seen rolling 
along all the broad, smooth avenues. Here comes a 
street-car filled with people, inside and outside, drawn 
by three handsome gray horses hitched side by side, 
and as they trot they seem to keep step. Well dressed 
and orderly people are passing and re-passing. 

In a short walk of half an hour along pavements 
bright with gas and electric lights, I hear and see 
things that I was sorry to witness, things that tell us 
plainly that this great city is awfully corrupt. For 
there is the "strange woman" with the "impudent 
face" to interrupt the stranger and young men who 
go straight on their way. Some said, "No!" with a 
scornful emphasis; but, alas, some went "as an ox 
goeth to the slaughter." Vice and crimes that I dare 
not mention are committed here every day and night. 
And any city thus wicked deserves to be wrecked with 
bombs, or swallowed by earthquakes, or purified by 
fire. I came where men, and women, and children, 
were standing before a show window, and looking in, I 
saw pictures and photographs at which decent people 
blush. I turned away, for I would not dare to de- 
scribe them here. And male villains try to tempt 
strangers into the vilest dens. 



I96 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

Having seen evil enough of Paris by gas-light, on 
the pavements, I turned toward my hotel, where I 
might write a letter for the Telephone, or write down 
the incidents and sights of the day for use at a future 
time. Next morning at breakfast a Londoner, a 
young married man, told me how some people spend 
their nights in this glittering whirlpool of moral cor- 
ruption. Of course, Christians, and gentlemen, and 
decent people must deprecate these "amusements"(?) 
and depart from, or rather keep from, such scenes. 
The whole truth need not be told now, but a portion 
of it may warn and do good. Strangers are often 
asked to buy packages of obscene pictures, on cards, 
by young men who show them slyly. I did not be- 
foul my pockets with any of them. I would rather 
turn young people, who are not fixed in good habits,, 
into the wilds of Africa, than to leave them unguarded 
in Paris. The French are, as a rule, handsome peo- 
ple, and the girls you see attending shops and places 
of business, are fine in face and form. If the reader 
should say these scenes of beauty and pleasure do not 
condemn vice, let him imagine the awful suffering, 
poverty, sorrow, chagrin, and disgrace, and despair of 
those who worship pride, pleasure, fashion, wine and 
vanity for such pleasures are only for a season;, 
though we may dance and laugh in a crowd of friends 
we must weep alone — alone in a dark, chilly night, 
full of fears, and pains, and wants, — a night that has 
no joy awaiting it in the morning. 

I walked out on Sunday morning. The streets 
were gay with travel and travelers. Though sur- 



PARIS: HER PAST, PRESENT, ETC. I97 

rounded by temples, I heard no church bells. Here 
men were building a house ; here painters were paint- 
ing a building ; here restaurants, and hotels, and gar- 
dens were full of gay wine drinkers and cigarette 
smokers ; here men were paving the streets and here 
were others putting down pipe in deep trenches. The 
street-cars are well crowded going up and down. I 
noticed that many of the largest stores were closed ; 
at least the great iron shutters that lay fold upon fold 
had been let down. 

Street-cars passed me with " Madeleine " and " Place 
de la Bastile" painted thereon, so I concluded to walk 
the way to the Bastile. I walked the grand boulevard 
looking and learning. Streets would cross streets at 
angles, right, acute and obtuse. Here is a square and 
there a circle ; here a statue and there a fountain ; here 
an arch of victory and yonder a temple with pillars ; 
here a hotel and there a gilded spire, and here is where 
a most gigantic bronze lion crouches at the foot of 
the monument in the Place de la Republique. This 
monument is grand and massive, but not lofty. 

Here comes a funeral procession; see the two 
black horses, harness, hearse and driver, all decked in 
shining black ! A few white tassels and rosettes en- 
liven the hearse, which is a large, open one, and the 
casket is almost lost in banks of flowers. A man in 
black walks on each side, and about forty men and 
women, in sober black, slowly follow the steadily 
moving funeral-car, while eight fine barouches, well 
filled with mourning friends, bring up the rear. It is 
like a fragrant island of flowers floating amid graceful 



Kj8 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

columns and arches of jet, and the whole scene seems 
to say, " What a quiet, pleasant, beautiful thing it is 
to go to a funeral in Paris, whether your arms are 
folded under flowers and glass in the glossy casket, or 
whether your hands are full of fragrant roses, as you 
walk by the handsome hearse, over asphalt pavements, 
between rows of gay palaces, where trees and foun- 
tains cool the air !" 

At a later day we noticed the gay rosettes on the 
bridles of the horses, and they say, "There goes a 
wedding party." In Paris one must bow to the tyrant 
Fashion, whether living or dying. 

Clear water runs in the gutters with which to scrub 
the streets. The streets are paved "with stone, with 
wood, with asphalt, and with tar, sand and gravel. 
Now I arrive at the Place de la Bastile. Here is the 
place where the famously infamous old castle and 
prison " Bastile " once stood. I need not tell you about 
this old prison, for have you not read about it in your 
school books and in your cyclopaedias ? It was built 
about 1375 and was called the Castle of Paris, and 
here for ages had great people and men of learning 
been imprisoned until they were forgotten ; until no 
man knew why they were shut up away from the free 
sunshine of heaven. 

Well, in 1789 a great mob, or, rather, an army of 
revolutionists, armed with cannon and courage, came 
upon it and after a struggle took it and broke open 
the dusty and rusty doors, and let out the prisoners 
and cut off the heads of those in charge of it and 



PARIS: HER PAST, PRESENT, ETC. I99 

scattered its stones in ruins — stones which have since 
been used in good bridges and public buildings. 

Now, in the centre of the place stands a magnifi- 
cent and stately fluted column of bronze thirteen feet 
in diameter and one hundred and fifty-four feet high, 
bearing upon its side the names of brave men who 
died while fighting for "public liberty" on the 27th, 
28th and 29th of July, 1830. The base is white mar- 
ble, and on top of the column stands an immense 
gilded figure on a great gilded ball. The figure rep- 
resents the "Genius of Liberty" running, a bird in 
one hand and a broken chain in the other. 

For a small piece of silver I am permitted to 
ascend the column on the inside. I go around and 
around a good many times in the darkness before I 
get to the top. Now we are on top just below the 
great ball and gilded figure. I will not attempt to 
describe what I saw — the spires, towers, domes, col- 
umns, statues, arches, fountains, distant hills, parks, 
groves, markets, etc. Soldiers, gentlemen and ladies 
are here and we almost jostle against each other there 
in the air, for our platform, or gallery, overhangs the 
great column. The wind blows strong and the column 
trembles and shudders, and a young lady also trembles 
and shudders as she shrinks back from the slender 
metal railing ; but I trembled, too, somewhat, as I 
noticed the vibrations of the great metal column and 
gazed on the hard, white paving stones so far below. 
I would have felt safer had there been fewer people 
up and the day had not been Sunday. What is that 
red line in the pavements, running this way and that ? 



20O IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

That shows where the old Bastile once stood. Now 
I breathe more freely ; I am on the ground once more. 
See the centre of this wide boulevard ! Four rows of 
trees, flowers and fountains ! In the centre are men, 
women and children selling nearly all kinds of notions 
and articles, among which are second-hand articles, 
old clothing, old rusty keys and nameless things too 
numerous to mention, spread all over the pavement 
and ground. It is near dinner-time. I get upon the 
top of a street-car and ride toward the " Madeleine." 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

PARIS : PLACES MAGNIFICENT AND GLORIOUS. 

BREAKFAST GUIDED THROUGH PALACES — AMERICANS 

MET THE MADELEINE — A MARBLE SPLENDOR 

THE DECALOGUE SWINGS IN BRONZE TRUE ART 

CALLS FOR TEARS — THREE HUNDRED COMMUNISTS 

KILLED NEAR A PULPIT TROCADERO PALACE AND 

GARDEN — LOOKING DOWN ON A CANOPY WHICH COV- 
ERS SEVEN THOUSAND SEATS IN RED VELVET STEEL 

FINGERS TOWER A THOUSAND FEET WHERE LIGHT- 
NING RULES CATHEDRALS CUT IN ROCK AND 

LIGHTED BY RAINBOWS, AND FILLED WITH MUSIC OF 

SEAS, BIRDS, THUNDER, ETC. PANORAMA OF REZON- 

VILLE A FROZEN BATTLE-FIELD AMERICA'S MONU- 
MENT AT YOSEMITE SMILING AMONG CLOUDS 

NAPOLEON'S TOMB, GUARDED BY MARBLE HEROES, 
THREE HUNDRED AND FORTY FEET BELOW A GOLDEN 
HEMISPHERE. 

Monday morning, August 29th, in Paris. At 
breakfast, between eight and nine o'clock — the beef- 
steak is tender and very finely broiled; the potato is 
sliced in slender pieces the length of your finger, and 
browned in butter; the bread is in delicate, brown, 
crescent-shaped rolls, not much larger than the handle 
of a table-knife; the butter is good and sweet, and is 



202 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

without salt; the coffee is fresh, hot, clear, and not too 
strong, in a silver pot; mixed with a liberal quantity 
of good, hot milk, and a tablet of loaf-sugar, it is un- 
surpassable. This breakfast pleased me so well that I 
left the thousand and one other things and asked it to 
be repeated each morning while I remained in the city. 
Other guests keep dropping into the dining-room, 
and breakfast will be served all the forenoon. I walk 
out, the morning is cool, and the atmosphere is clear 
and fine. Calling at Cook's office, 9 Rue Scribe, the 
clerk says, "Will you go with one of our four-in-hand 
excursions? In three days, this way, you will see 
nearly the whole city, only two dollars a day for each 
person." I paid the two dollars, or eight shillings, or 
ten francs, I do not remember which, and stepped up 
in the carriage drawn by four horses, and driven by a 
fat Frenchman, in blue broadcloth, gold-colored 
braid, and high, shining hat. Eighteen or twenty of 
us excursionists from America and England fill the 
five seats that run across the carriage. By my side is 
a young man from London; there is a young lady 
from Baltimore; there a married lady from Philadel- 
phia; there Mr. S. and his daughter from New York; 
there a tall, old maid from Wisconsin; there a young 
man from Cincinnati, and here one from New Jersey, 
and others too numerous to mention, but not too 
numerous to be good company and have a good time 
all day, shown through palaces and parks by our 
good-natured and witty guide, Henry de Heerdt. 
Life-long friendships were doubtlessly formed on that 
and succeeding days. At 10 o'clock we start, our 



PARIS: PLACES MAGNIFICENT, ETC. 203 

guide having two carriage loads to guide and instruct, 
and he rode with us. We drove along a grand boule- 
vard by the Grand Opera House, and came to the 
Madeleine, or church of St. Mary Magdalene. This 
is a great building, and was many years in being 
erected. It reminds me much of Girard College, as it 
stands surrounded by many mighty columns, on a 
broad plateau of granite lying layer above layer. I 
counted fourteen columns in front, which I set down 
as six feet in diameter and sixty feet high. "The 
entire cost of the Madeleine was two millions six 
hundred and fifteen thousand and eight hundred dol- 
lars. It stands on a raised platform, three hundred 
and twenty-eight feet long, and one hundred and 
thirty-eight feet broad, and has at each end an ap- 
proach consisting of twenty-eight steps the entire 
length of the facade. The architecture is Grecian. A 
colonnade of fifty-two Corinthian columns entirely 
surround the building, giving to it a grandeur of 
appearance which few structures in Europe attain. 
Between the columns there are niches, and a row of 
colossal statues stand in them." 

The bronze doors are massive and magnificent, 
being thirty-six feet high and sixteen feet broad. The 
doors have ten panels, in each of which is a represen- 
tation of one of the Ten Commandments. These are 
great and beautiful pictures in bronze. I have not the 
time nor the ability to describe the interior of this 
great and gorgeous temple ; but let me assure you 
that it is resplendent with marbles of fine polish and 
various colors, gold, silver, altars, baptismal fonts, 



204 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

•crucifixes, confessionals, pulpits, chapels, shrines, and 
fine and rare statues and paintings illustrating the birth, 
life, death and resurrection of Christ, and the history 
of saints and nations of later times. I sometimes 
think I would be almost happy if I could describe 
clearly to our readers these scenes of grandeur and 
glory, for more than once in the presence of great 
works of art and rare music did my soul melt and my 
eyes reveal the fact in glistening drops like dew, while 
I, in a figure, bowed one knee to the worker below 
and one knee to the Master above. Our guide said : 
"There, behind the pulpit, three hundred Communists 
were killed," and as we went out he showed us where 
balls and bullets had scarred the columns and walls 
during a struggle with Communists. As we drove 
by the Luxor obelisk, in the Place de la Concorde, he 
said: "There is where the Guillotine stood, and here 
is where foreign armies have encamped." And driving 
along the Champs Elysees we came to the Panorama 
of Rezonville, which is a representation of an awful 
battle between the French and Germans, in which 
nearly thirty-four thousand lives were lost. We enter 
a building, and, going through a dark passage, go up 
into a circular room which appears to be in the centre 
of a large and bloody battle-field ; motion and noise 
are the only things lacking to make it appear entirely 
real. It is thrilling, awful and graphic, like a bloody 
battle-scene suddenly frozen or struck into silence and 
immovability by power superhuman. You see the 
sky and clouds above, the fields, woods and mountains 
near and many miles away. The smoke hangs over 



PARIS : PLACES MAGNIFICENT, ETC. 2C>5 

the cannon, the bombs are suspended in air. Thou- 
sands of soldiers and horses ; some charging with 
banners, and many fallen, bleeding and dying. Here 
is the dusty road of midsummer, broken fences, wasted 
harvests, houses on fire, dust upon the weeds, gravel, 
and leaves of plants and trees, broken guns, wrecked 
wagons, torn horses, and men fearfully mangled. The 
scene was awfully real — quite real enough. The paint- 
ers, Messrs. de Neuville and Detaille, are indeed great 
artists. We could not tell how near we were to the 
canvasser surface upon which these awful scenes were 
so vividly portrayed. Going on by the Arc de Tri- 
omphe, we arrive at the Trocadero Palace and Gardens. 
Here our party, or those who wished to pay a 
small fee, were hoisted by a grand hydraulic lift to 
the top of the great tower, nearly three hundred feet 
above the Seine, where is had one of the grandest 
views of the city. The morning is clear. The guide 
said : " We burn gas and charcoal, and that leaves our 
atmosphere clear. This circle below us is the largest 
dome on earth, and the festival hall beneath it con- 
tains seven thousand seats in red velvet." Underneath 
is a great aquarium, and there in front is the immense 
cascade which falls over eight plateaux. Yonder is 
the Pantheon, the Notre Dame, the Hotel des Inval- 
ides with its beautiful gilded dome rising three hun- 
dred and forty feet from the ground. Yes, here on 
every hand is beautiful Paris ; flowers in full bloom, 
and fountains in full play ; and our party, composed 
of people from distant lands, is jocular and joyous. 
There, just across the Seine, in a great, open space, 



206 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

where a world's fair was held in 1878, they are now 
erecting a vast steel tower. 

This lofty tower is to surpass all the towers of the 
earth. It will eclipse the towers of the brick age, the 
granite age, and the golden age. Yes, this iron and 
steel age surpasses the age when nations chiseled 
cathedrals out of rocky mountains and windowed 
them with rainbows, and bribed Old Ocean, and thun- 
der storms, and birds, and aeolian harps to make music 
among their everlasting pillars. This daring structure 
is to be a thousand feet high. Think of it! Columns 
of steel lifting their glittering fingers, nearly a fourth 
of a mile into the heavens, where lightnings flash and 
rule; is it not audacious? For years, I have dreamed 
of a glass palace rearing its bright crown a thousand 
feet into the sky, but here I am confronted and cast 
down by a real one of cold steel. But, maybe an 
army of us "energetic and enterprising Americans," 
led by a romantic dreamer, will go westward on a cru- 
sade, and coming to the awful ledges of the Yosemite, 
smite with our steel chisels until we cut clear from the 
mountain a national monument two thousand feet 
high; and then with the mighty enginery of modern 
times we will roll it to the centre of Yosemite's vale, 
where it may forever smile down upon the little 
needles of Cleopatra. 

Tomb of Napoleon: The ashes of Napoleon I. 
are enshrined in a massive sarcophagus, weighing 
tons, which is of beautiful, dark-red granite finely pol- 
ished. It is in a circular crypt, thirty-six feet in diam- 
eter, and twenty feet deep, and is seen from the main 



PARIS : PLACES MAGNIFICENT, ETC. 20/ 

floor, the circle being surrounded by a marble balus- 
trade. The tomb is directly under the lofty, gilded 
dome of the Hotel des Invalides, which I have already 
mentioned. The floors are marble, the columns and 
walls are marble; fine statues stand around and the 
rarest paintings glorify the ceilings. Here are the mag- 
nificent tombs of his brothers, Joseph and Jerome Bona- 
parte, and other heroes, all standing amid splendors 
which are gazed upon by our party in almost breath- 
less wonder and admiration. In fact, my London 
friend said, "I can hardly breathe in here." Then I 
laughed, for I perceived that I too had not been 
breathing for a moment. Yes, there were so many 
great and beautiful things to see, "all in one breath," 
that we looked rapidly and forgot for a brief period to 
breathe. Oh, see that beautiful altar on spiral col- 
umns of rare marble, where the light is mellowed into 
gold before it falls upon it! Now we are below, near 
the massive coffin. See the twelve heroic and beauti- 
ful statues facing the costly urn of glorified human 
dust! The church is one of much interest and beauty. 
Here are fine statues of famous heroes and great men, 
and many old banners forced from fierce warriors on 
distant and blood-red fields, in the days of triumph, 
when Glory showered bright crowns upon France and 
her daring and desperate sons. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

PARIS: CHURCHES, MARKET, CEMETERY. 

NOTE-BOOK IN HAND PALAIS ROYAL — DINE IN THE 

FAMOUS PLACE MUSIC RED WINE CHURCH ST. 

EUSTACHE CROWDED WITH BEAUTY AND GLORY 

TWELVE HUNDRED CELLARS UNDER TWENTY-TWO 

ACRES OF GLASS-ROOFED MARKETS PERE LA CHAISE 

TWENTY-TWO THOUSAND ATTRACTIVE HOMES FOR 

THE DEAD — MIGHTY MEN SLEEPING IN MARBLE BEDS 

ABELARD AND HELOISE, FAMOUS AND UNHAPPY 

LOVERS, IN MARBLE, SIDE BY SIDE, GAZING INTO THE 
HEAVENS — MARSHAL NEY's GRASS-BLADE MONUMENT 

— A BEAUTIFUL PARK THE LOUVRE PALACE ART 

GALLERY ONE-FOURTH OF A MILE IN LENGTH GREAT 

PAINTINGS BRILLIANT ROOMS. 

As the reader may begin to weary of gay, gorge- 
ous Paris, I will cut short my voluminous notes taken 
in France, and thus get ready to go to mountainous 
Wales and "Bonny Scotland." When I left Wilkes- 
Barre, I provided myself with a note-book of suffi- 
cient size, I then thought, to contain the notes I would 
take while on my trip; but, when I returned to Amer- 
ica the great, the bright " Queen of the West," 
enthroned on emerald, silver, jet and gold, between the 
two oceans, I was writing in note-book number 



PARIS : CHURCHES, MARKET, CEMETERY. 20g 

eleven. I wrote at morning, noon and night, on sea 
and land; in the street, above the street, and under 
the street; walking, talking, and riding; in steam-cars, 
tram-cars, and 'buses. Thus the reader will see that 
I have still material for letters without drawing upon 
my fancy, imagination, memory or guide-books. One 
day's drive or walk in Paris gives matter for two or 
three lengthy letters. 

After viewing Napoleon's magnificent tomb, our 
party drove to the Palais Royal, where we lunched at 
an expense of from two to three francs. It seemed 
somewhat strange to dine here, with gay, careless 
sight-seers, in this grand and famous old palace, or 
rather cluster of palaces, in form parallelogram, en- 
closing a most luxurious garden blooming with flow- 
ers, flashing with fountains, and musical with vibrations 
from instruments bound in wood, catgut, silver and 
brass. 

Red Wine sat on the throne, and coffee and water 
obeyed her nod and beck. Here were finely decked 
tables, glittering chandeliers, graceful pillars, and 
walls, and ceilings, finely emblazoned in high art. The 
lunchers were cheerful, witty, loquacious, and banners 
of friendship and love seemed waving over them. 
Well, I rather see palaces crowded with feasters than 
filled with tyrants, prisoners, soldiers, or lonesome, 
longing pride. 

Arriving at the Church St. Eustache, our guide 
said : " Ladies and gentlemen, if you wish to enter 
the church you must alight, for carriages are not ad- 
mitted." This is one of the great churches of Paris, 

(14) 



2IO IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

and is three hundred and forty-eight feet long and one 
hundred and eight feet high on the inside. The reader 
may imagine that it takes some splendor, color and 
art-work to transform so much height, length and 
breadth into a place of pleasing beauty. As I walked 
through the building I wrote in my note-book as fol- 
lows : "One of the richest churches in Paris; stone 
columns in rows, gilded shrines, tombs, altars, candle- 
sticks ; paintings grand, stained glass beautiful." 

Now we pass through the Central Market, Halles 
Centrales. Let the reader imagine a twenty-acre lot 
under a glass roof upheld by iron pillars, and under this 
canopy thousands of men, women and children exhibit- 
ing, buying and selling all kinds of things eatable and 
wearable. The garden, the field, the forest, the air, 
the rivers, and seas, and workshops have all been con- 
scripted to lay their treasures here. Oh, what a 
wonderful place is a great market of a great city ! 
Through its wider avenues horses and carts come and 
go with various products. The place is so interesting 
that I clip the following lines from a guide-book : 

"The largest market in Paris, consisting of ten 
pavilions, intersected with covered streets, covering a 
space of twenty-two acres and erected at a cost of over 
ten million dollars. Underneath are twelve hundred 
cellars for the storage of goods, twelve feet high, and 
lighted with gas. 

"To see the Halles at their best the visitor should 
go early in the morning, when the retail dealers are 
making their purchases for the day. 



PARIS: CHURCHES, MARKET, CEMETERY. 211 

"The Halles stand on the sight of the old Marche 
des Innocents, to which they afford as strong a con- 
trast as does the Farringdon Market to old Smith- 
field." 

As we drove on by historic glories, that I have 
before mentioned, toward the famous cemetery of 
Pere la Chaise, our guide said : " Here is the Prison 
de la Roquette and there are the stones in the pave- 
ment in front of it where, in a few hours or days, the 
Guillotine will be brought out and set up to cut off 
the head of the murderer Pranzina, who is confined 
there. These people are waiting day and night to see 
the decapitation, for they know it will soon take place." 
The man was beheaded the next morning at five o'clock. 
Now, at last, we have reached the gates of Pere la 
Chaise, the old and populous cemetery of Paris. As 
we entered the grand and massive granite gateway 
our guide turned and addressed us in a somewhat 
subdued manner, as if to at least partially warn us to 
comport ourselves with the decorum proper for the 
place, and said : "The gentlemen will please not smoke 
while here, for the dead can't bear it." 

This City of the Dead, on a hill overlooking Paris, 
seems with its many avenues lined with grand tombs, 
monuments, vaults and mausoleums, like a silent city 
of the living, except that the structures are small and 
nearly all cross-surmounted. Our guide said that sol- 
diers had camped here in days long past when Paris 
was in peril and some of the monuments had been 
injured by shot and shell. There are twenty-two 
thousand tombs here. The place is beautified by fine 



212 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

walks, flowers, shrubs, trees, and fountains for pur- 
poses of irrigation. 

We were shown the graves, vaults and monuments 
of many famous persons. This plain, solid tomb is 
Rothschild's ; here is General Foy's tomb, the favorite 
of Napoleon; here lies the dust of Marshal Ney, the 
" bravest of the brave," according to his will he has no 
tombstone, only a little hedge enclosing grass and 
flowers. Here is the tomb of Visconti, the great 
architect who remodeled the grand church into a 
gorgeous tomb for Napoleon. Here is the tomb that 
all travelers and lovers wish to visit, that of " Abelard 
and Heloise." Our guide says, "These unfortunate 
but faithful lovers have been remembered for hundreds 
of years, and wept over by thousands ; if you wish to 
know more of them you must read it, for I will not 
tell you." Their beautiful marble effigies lie side by 
side, looking toward Heaven. I took a few pebbles 
from the grave and put them into a labeled envelope, 
also a leaf or two from Marshal Ney's grave, as a me- 
mento of the place. 

That the reader may see I have not used hyper- 
bolical language, let me quote the words of the traveler 
and writer, Bartlett, who says, " I visited it, (Pere la 
Chaise) but once, and then came away displeased with 
its magnificence. * * It is distinguished for the 
size, costliness and grandeur of its monuments. * * 
There are temples, sepulchral chapels, mausoleums, 
pyramids, altars and urns. * * It is calculated 
that in forty years not less than one hundred millions 



PARIS: CHURCHES, MARKET, CEMETERY. 21 3 

of francs have been spent in the erection of monu- 
ments in Pere la Chaise." 

Buttes Chaumont : This beautiful park is not far 
from Pere la Chaise. It is one of the most romantic 
spots I have ever seen. I will give the reader what I 
wrote hastily on the spot, and leave him to judge of 
the place. It covers about sixty-two acres; was once 
a stone quarry ; was beautified by Napoleon III; high 
hills, trees, green lawns, flowers, lakes, cascades, grot- 
toes, water-falls in caves, suspension bridges, ivy- 
grown rocks towering sixty feet high, white cliffs, high, 
rocky islands ascended by bridges and terraces; music, 
beer, wine, singing, dancing. A neat-looking woman 
with a child in her arms said, " Can you give me 
something?" I gave her sixty centimes. Our party 
are entering the carriage, and soon the whip cracks, 
dogs bark, and little boys run by our side, begging, 
the first we have seen here. 

The Louvre: The Louvre is perhaps the largest 
and most interesting building in Paris, and all tourists 
are expected to see it. It is a great palace of art and 
curiosities. Its name is said to be derived from 
Louverie, or wolf resort. It is very extensive and 
surrounds an open court. I walked around it and 
found it to be two thousand two hundred and seventy- 
five yards in circumference, or a little over a mile and 
a quarter. It is of gray stone, substantially built, but 
not brilliant on the outside. Statues of men, horses, 
etc., stand in niches, in and along its outer walls. I 
entered the building, but what shall I say, when it re- 
quires large books to contain a list of the curious and 



214 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

beautiful things. A month would not suffice to see it, 
and I went through it in less than three hours. Oh, 
the beautiful statues of marble and bronze on rare 
pedestals of variegated marble! Here are thousands 
of paintings, many of them large and fine. Here is 
one gallery a quarter of a mile long, in which I 
counted nearly ten hundred paintings; a guide-book 
says there are over one thousand four hundred. Think 
of it! A room big enough to show so many hundred 
pictures, and some of them nearly, or quite, 20x4a 
feet in size! Oh, the power and glory that is in a 
great painting! What romance! What history I 
What valor, what love, and what suffering! Here is a 
grand painting of women and babes staying an awful 
battle in a street, in olden times. See the strong, 
fierce men with helmets, swords, shields, spears, and 
war-horses, in pride and strength, prancing down 
through gorgeous streets, over dead and dying men I 
The brave, strong women showing their charms and 
their courage, and their lovely and innocent off- 
spring ! Now see the waves of war stand still, and 
then sullenly retire ! Indeed, what can be more in- 
spiring than the courageous action of lovely women ? 
Men every day, everywhere, dare death for such. Oh, 
see this great painting of Christ at the wedding in 
Cana ! How grand is the court surrounded and filled 
by columns, galleries, verandas, towers, domes, fruits, 
flowers, wines, pigeons, dogs, monkeys, clowns, musi- 
cians, colored servants, tables, food, guests, richly-clad 
men, women, and children, and Christ! Of course, I 
believe Cana was a plain and poor village, and the 



PARIS: CHURCHES, MARKET, CEMETERY. 21 5 

wedding quite humble and informal, still I have but 
partially described the painting. Lack of wine illy 
accords with a place and with people so grand. 

What grand, smooth oak floors ! What frescoing ! 
Some of the ceilings are as beautiful as " pictures of 
silver" full of oranges and apples of gold. Here are 
rooms finished off with oak, wonderfully carved and 
full of vases of fine china, and cases of rare stones, 
pearls and diamonds in delicate and costly caskets. 
Here is a room brilliant with gold crowns and great 
N's, "where Napoleon contracted his second mar- 
riage;" and here a room where King Henry IV. died 
after being stabbed in the street. Here are large, 
grand rooms full of rare and ancient things from dis- 
tant lands. Time and space wave their silver wands 
toward me, spelling in mystic characters the word 
"Halt!" 



CHAPTER XX. 

PARIS: NOTRE DAME, PANTHEON, ST. CLOUD. 

BANKS OF THE SEINE GODS DISTILLING WATER BRIDGES 

HOW I ASKED QUESTIONS NOTRE DAME IMPRESS- 
IVE BUILDING A MARBLE MOUNTAIN WITH PEARLS 

AND SHELLS FOR WINDOWS — SHRINES RELICS A 

CATHEDRAL'S USE TOWER SAINT JACQUES — THE PAN- 
THEON ARTISTS ON SCAFFOLDS FOR YEARS MONU- 
MENT TO HEROES AND ARTISTS THE GREAT CROWN 

ENROUTE TO ST. CLOUD — PARC MONCEAU BOIS DE 

BOULOGNE GRAND AVENUE — FINE VISTAS — ROTHS- 

CHILD'S HOME ST. CLOUD, WHERE THE GREAT NAPO- 
LEON WAVED HIS SWORD AND VAST ARMIES SHOUTED 
AND MARCHED TO MAKE MILLIONS MOURN — ANGELS^ 
FLY HEAVENWARD THE RUINED PALACE THE ZULU- 
SLAIN PRINCE, ETC. 

When I look over my note-books I find it no easy- 
task to tear myself away from Paris. It is with this 
as with other great and beautiful stories — one finds 
himself constantly longing to tell it. Here are so 
many wide gardens resplendent with flowers; so many 
parks abounding with enchanting resting places, 
groves, lakes, swans and statues; so many squares and 
courts full of trees, columns and fountains — fountains 
throwing sparkling water up where it must fall in glit- 



PARIS: NOTRE DAME, ETC. 21"/ 

tering streams down over plateau after plateau until it 
finds a home in the historic Seine. Here on the banks 
of the Seine, on a tall column, stands a gilded angel, 
but perhaps if it were not gilded it would be a brass 
devil, for it is a unique image with wings, and crowns 
are in its outstretched hands. A score or more of 
grotesque monsters at its base pour water from their 
throats. There are dragons, fish, mermaids, sea-lions, 
nymphs, sphinxes, frogs, lions, etc. See the glitter of 
the fountains and hear the rush and dash of the waters ! 
The Genius of the place seems to cry, " Let everything 
that hath a mouth spout water!" Let us liken it to 
the laboratory where the gods distill seas of water. 
Yonder, at the end of a great stone building, a torrent 
of water rolls out and comes pouring down from basin 
to basin, from step to step. 

The Seine is of a greenish tint, not muddy ; I won- 
der how it is kept so clear. Many handsome bridges 
span the Seine, which appears to be four or five hun- 
dred feet broad. Fine high walls of cut stone line 
the river on each side, and rows of trees stand on its 
banks between the walls and the water, and here and 
there are neat stone steps leading down to the boat 
landings. The steamers are numerous, narrow, grace- 
ful, and glide rapidly, almost without noise. Men and 
boys are fishing, but I see no fish. Yonder is a long, 
high island in the river covered with trees, shrubbery 
and flowers. It is so smooth and uniform I think it 
must be a work of art. 

My experience is, that if one asks a question in 
English of a Frenchman who can not speak English, 



2l8 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

he will not answer, but pass on, as much as to say : 
" I will not give myself away ; learn French or hire a 
guide." I afterward learned to open my guide-book 
and point to the name of the building or place I wished 
to find, and then show it to a policeman or other gen- 
tleman, and if he could not tell me in English he 
would point the way and give me a little avalanche of 
French words. Then I would take my watch and he 
would point on its face to show how many minutes it 
would take me to walk to the place. If it were too 
many minutes, I would take a street car, so much 
inside, so much outside and so much on top. I was 
fond of riding on top of the neat cars, where I might 
see all that we passed. So, you see, I was trying to 
do Paris under difficulties, all of which induced me to 
go afterward with a carriage load of cheerful sight- 
seers in charge of Cook & Son's guides. 

Here are two good looking ladies, so much, in 
dress and feature and form, like English people that I 
addressed them in English, asking the way to the 
Notre Dame, but they laughed heartily because I had 
mistaken them for English ladies, still they pointed 
out the way to the grand and ancient cathedral of 
Notre Dame. This cathedral dates back to 1163. It 
has, of course, been greatly altered and improved since 
then. Now we stand in front of it, and two lofty 
towers, say two hundred and thirty feet high, stand 
one at each side, and a very tall and graceful spire 
rises from the centre and is seen between the towers. 
Three great arched doorways are in front, where many 
statues, or images in bold relief, look down upon us. 



PARIS: NOTRE DAME, ETC. 2IO, 

I counted about three hundred of these figures carved 
in the stone-work in the front of the edifice. Above 
the centre doorway is an immense and very beautiful 
rose window. This is one of the oldest, richest and 
largest Catholic cathedrals in Europe. It will hold 
twenty thousand people. These walls have a gray 
and ancient look, and the tooth of Time is slowly 
gnawing away the fine carving in the hard stone ; but 
resolutely these solid old walls stand and fight for 
centuries the attacks of Time and the friction of roll- 
ing ages. Things of great beauty, things of vast 
worth and things of great age are always interesting 
even to the unlearned ; what, then, are they to the 
heads and hearts crowded and matured with the classic 
stores of all times ? Yes, education is a sword, a pen, 
an engine of mighty power. A thing of true beauty, 
it finds beauty and worth everywhere and is a joy for- 
ever. This is one of the most impressive buildings I 
have seen ; I mean chiefly in its interior appearance 
and influences. It reminds me much of the gray sol- 
emnity of York Minster and its sacred dust and relics 
called up the memories of Westminster Abbey. I 
bought a few simple souvenirs from a girl at the door 
and gave a small sum to a poor man who stood in a 
De Sg' n g posture, just inside, and passed in among the 
fine and lofty columns that stand in long rows. 

Now look up one hundred and ten feet, where the 
nave arches are above us ! See the many fine colored 
windows on all sides and above! The glass, fine and 
ancient, does not let in much light, and the place has 
a solemn and impressive aspect. I counted nearly, or 



220 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

quite, eighty majestic columns of white stone, and I 
thought it all looked as if it had been cut out of a 
great mountain of marble and made translucent in 
places by inserting pearls, stones and shells of bright 
color and pleasing contour ; or a garden of stately 
trees, which, while in bloom, had been roofed over and 
then changed into marble. The organ is a great and 
powerful one. The carved woodwork in and around 
the choir is intricate and costly. The shrines are 
many and magnificent, where candles, crosses, crowns, 
crucifixes, fonts, paintings and relics abound. Many 
canonized saints are remembered in the construction 
of these sacred shrines, where many worshipers come 
for confession. Here are many costly and elaborate 
monuments to the memory of archbishops and divines 
of high degree. I went with a party of French peo- 
ple, led by a verger, or priest, into the treasury where 
many old doors, drawers, and fine cases were unlocked 
and their contents shown, consisting of ancient vest- 
ments, and crowns, and crosses, and chalices, and 
caskets, all representing the paraphernalia of church 
and state for many ages. Robes, and crowns, and 
swords, worn by those great in war and those high in 
ecclesiastical walks. I could not understand the guide, 
but I learned that the things were considered very 
valuable, very ancient, and very sacred. It is claimed 
by some that you can here see pieces of Christ's cross, 
and crown of thorns, and a nail from the cross. I 
cannot ask the reader to believe all these to be 
genuine. 

The music was almost heavenly. Notre Dame 



PARIS: NOTRE DAME, ETC. 221 

displays much wealth, magnificence and antiquity, 
and is, indeed, an interesting place. I never knew 
what a cathedral filled with a forest of lofty and mas- 
sive stone columns was best fitted for until I heard the 
music, vocal and instrumental, rolling through hewn 
rocks in York Minster. When the uniformed choir 
chanted the Great Prayer, and choice selections of Holy 
Writ were sung, and the mezzo-soprano tones of the 
sweet singer rolled out and above the great volume of 
music, tears fell in the solemn old cathedral, while 
some who came to idly gaze bent low their heads to 
wonder and pray. Yes, that voice was almost super- 
earthly, and appeared like the sweep of an angel's 
wing among fair clouds of the evening. 

Here is the tower St. Jacques, a tower of singular 
appearance, tall, angular and very unique, standing in 
a garden among trees, flowers and fountains, where 
men, women and children, by the hundred, come to 
rest, read, talk, work, nurse and play. To me it 
seemed like a parlor and nursery out of doors, where 
mothers and maids knit, and sewed, and stitched, 
while dimpled infants laughed, and played, and slept 
on all sides. This was one of the most quiet, orderly 
and homelike places I saw in France. Gaudy pride, 
military show and barbaric splendor held themselves 
aloof from this quaint locality. Being in a central 
place, its observatory gives a good view of the city. 

Here is the Pantheon, one of the grandest struc- 
tures in Paris. It stands on high ground at the head 
of a broad street, and with its mighty columns below, 
and its lordly columns above, bearing up a dome of 



222 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

great extent and rare symmetry, it forms a striking 
picture. You enter, and its lofty ceiling flames with 
painted glory one hundred and eighty feet above you, 
where the white fingers and pale temples of true-born 
artists clung for years to immortalize themselves and 
make pictures of such beauty as to strike pity, and 
peace, and gentleness into the rude breasts of vandals. 
Look on its walls and see paintings worth kingdoms, 
illustrating the great eras of nations, and perpetuating 
the daring deeds of eagle-eyed and lion-hearted men. 
A mighty monument of art, it stands as a mausoleum 
for some of France's great sons, long dead. Now I 
am in the great boulevard leading to the Grand Opera 
House, that chiseled, gilded and velvet-lined glory, 
which bears aloft on its roof the largest crown ever 
constructed. I clip the following lines relating to the 
Grand Opera House, from a guide-book: 

" Grand Opera, the largest theatre in the world, 
which covers an area of nearly three acres, although 
it contains less seats than the theatres of La Scala, 
Milan, and San Carlo, Naples. 

"Between four and five hundred houses were de- 
molished to provide the site, which cost ,£420,000. 

"The building was commenced in 1861, from the 
designs of Gamier, and finished in 1874 at a cost of 
nearly a million and a half pounds sterling. Nearly 
every country in Europe has contributed materials for 
this magnificent construction, which may be studied 
to advantage externally by the electric light." 

It is 9:30 a. m., Tuesday, August 30th. In front 
of Cooks' office, 9 Rue Scribe, Paris, the carriages are 



PARIS : NOTRE DAME, ETC. 223 

standing, while travelers from America, England, Aus- 
tralia and other parts of our little earth are climbing 
into them, each one having purchased a ticket for the 
day or for three days. The guides (one guide for two 
carriages) take their places and soon we are rolling 
over fine, smooth streets among bright palaces, calling 
at this hotel and that boarding place for others, to 
make our load complete. Here is Mr. Walmsley, a 
head clerk from London ; there is Mr. Seymour and 
daughter, from New York; there is James H. Hamil- 
ton, from Cincinnati ; there a pleasant lady from New 
Jersey, and here is Mrs. Benn, from Philadelphia, and 
there a lady and gentleman from Bristol, England, and 
here is Miss Mollie J. Barton, from Baltimore. We 
drove through the beautiful Pare Monceau, a pleasant 
park in the heart of Paris. We drove rapidly through 
the park, but we saw some of its beauties, which con- 
sist of green slopes by bright serpentine waters, grace- 
ful columns by a cool pool; hearts, crowns, crosses, 
anchors, diamonds and pyramids of flowers ; fine old 
trees forming vistas, through which are seen shrub- 
bery, fountains, pavilions and statues. These grounds 
were laid out in the last century by Philip of Orleans, 
and they have witnessed some gorgeous pegeants. 

Bois de Boulogne : This fine avenue leads from 
the Arc de Triomphe, into and through the " Bois," a 
beautiful green forest covering two thousand, two 
hundred and fifty acres. The avenue above named I 
counted to be about four hundred feet broad, with 
rows of beautiful trees on each side, and wide sidewalks. 
This grand forest park is diversified by lakes, meadows, 



224 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

avenues, cascades, fountains, mounds and arches. 
Now we roll under a stone viaduct, gray with age, and 
upon it is growing a large tree. The guide said : 
" These trees do not equal your great trees in Amer- 
ica, but if your forests had been destroyed as often by 
war as this one, you could not boast as you now may. 

"Here is the Grand Cascade, forty-five feet high. 
These falls beat Niagara, for we can stop these but 
you can not stop Niagara, and they are not as noisy, 
and we could have them come down somewhere else." 
Now we pass the race- course of Longchamps, where 
there is a track one and a half miles long, where each 
Tune races are held and thousands of dollars, of course 
are at stake. I was told that there were races here 
nearly every Sunday. 

Yonder on a hill is the Citadel of Mont Valerian, 
the largest and strongest fort defending Paris. Here, 
in a seventy-acre forest, is the residence of Baron 
Rothschild, surrounded by lakes, lodges, fountains, 
fine trees, lawns, etc. It looks like a great painting 
of green and silver. Here, near the banks of the 
Seine, is the historic town of St. Cloud. 

This was a favorite place of Napoleon I., and from 
this point he marched out with his mighty army to 
cover himself and France with glory. I sometimes im- 
agine I can see this iron-browed, compactly-built man, 
with dark eyes that glitter like those of a basilisk, his 
form erect and steady, as he sits upon a proud iron-gray 
war-horse, his brain flashing with more than lightning 
rapidity, his breast throbs and swells with resolution, 



PARIS: NOTRE DAME, ETC. 225 

revenge and Lucifer-like ambition — ambition incarnate. 
When he waved his sword great marshals spurred their 
steeds, loud trumpets pealed, fair banners waved, long 
lines of bright bayonets began to move with a steady 
undulation; long columns of brave men advanced 
upon prancing horses, while hundreds of iron and 
brass cannon — deadly engines of war — rolled forward, 
their wide, black mouths threatening destruction to 
millions. As he marched into distant lands, kings 
bent their ears to the earth to hear his awful footfalls, 
and, rising, exclaimed: "To arms! to arms! He 
comes! he comes!" Then the plowman leaves his 
field ; the mechanic his work-shop ; the shepherd his 
little flock on the mountain side ; the son embraces 
his mother, the father caresses his children, and pale 
lovers, with trembling hearts and kisses, promise to 
be true ; and, while gazing at each other through tears, 
the lines of battle form near the fair city, where the 
stern gods of war contend with loud roar and clamor 
until the dew of evening falls upon three-score thou- 
sand cold, white, bloodless brows, and sorrow sits on 
a hundred thousand hearthstones and sad angels slowly 
and silently fly heavenward. 

This was also a summer resort for Napoleon III. 
In 1870 the grand palace was destroyed by war and 
it still lies in ruins, speaking apparently of the evils 
of war and the vanity of earthly ambition. A small 
piece of this once proud palace found its way into 
my trunk. The guide said : " Here is where Napoleon 
became emperor, and here is where he lived with 
Josephine ; it was her favorite home. Here the prince 

(15) r 



226 



IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 



was born, Eugenia's son, who was killed by Zulus in 
far-off Africa. See where shot and shell have scarred 
steps, columns and walls." Fountains, statues, forests 
and green lawns abound. 



CHAPTER XXI. 

VERSAILLES: FROM PARIS TO LONDON. 

FOREST VILLE D' AVRAY BOULEVARD DE LA REINE 

VERSAILLES A PALACE A FOURTH OF A MILE LONG 

MAGNIFICENCE BRILLIANT WITH GLORIES COST ONE 

HUNDRED AND TWENTY-SEVEN MILLION FRANCS 

KINGS AND QUEENS PILLARS OF SILVER AMID RAIN- 
BOWS, BEARING UP CANOPIES OF GOLD — SEVRES' CHINA 

PALACE SHAKE HANDS — ANGELIC GUIDES THE 

WONDERFUL ROAD, THIRTY-FIVE HUNDRED MILES 
LONG, RUNNING THROUGH EMPIRES OF WEALTH, 
LANDS OF MILK AND HONEY, AND KINGDOMS OF 

BEAUTY AND WONDER THE UNITED STATES GREAT 

IN CITIES AND RAILWAYS NO TATTERED BEGGARS 

RUSHING THROUGH FRANCE BY MOONLIGHT ROUEN 

SLEEPING DIEPPE BY THE SEA THE SEA DANCES IN 

GREEN AND WHITE SEA SICKNESS — WHITE CLIFFS 

OF ENGLAND SEEN THROUGH MIST RUSHING 

THROUGH WOODS, ROCKS, MEADOWS AND TOWNS TO 
LONDON. 

The Forest of Ville d' Avray is a beautiful and 
extensive forest. The guide said: "Here is where 
Gambetta died. Here a battle was fought and five 
thousand men were killed. Here passes the great 
military road, eight hundred miles long, running from 



228 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

Normandy to Italy, kept in good order all the way. 
Yonder is the Prussian cemetery, and there is the 
monument erected to the Prussian officers killed in 
the late war." 

Now we drive on along shady avenues; the scene 
is changing every moment, lakes, grottoes, arches, 
avenues, green fields; now we see through long ave- 
nues into sunny open places in the form of squares, 
circles, crosses, stars, parallelograms, etc. Now, for a 
mile or two, we pass along the Boulevard de la Reine. 
On each side the trees are trimmed in the form of a 
smooth, true arch all the way, and on top they are cut 
off level, and it appears like green masonry on grace- 
ful gray pillars, and when you cross other streets they 
show the same beautiful arches stretching away on 
both sides. Some places the trees are trimmed like 
graceful mounds, and again, with pillars and arches 
below and spires above. Here is a large market under 
the thick foilage of well-trimmed trees. Thus, amid 
much wonder and pleasure, and many exclamations 
of admiration and delight, we arrive at beautiful 
Versailles. 

Our guide said : " This is a city of forty-five 
thousand inhabitants, in a forest of twenty-five thous- 
and acres in extent, with one thousand, six hundred 
and thirty fountains, which cost twenty thousand dol- 
lars to make them play for four hours." We did not 
see them playing, for they only play the first and third 
Sundays of each month, from 3 to 5 o'clock p. m. 
Here is the great and beautiful palace of Versailles, 
showing- a front one-fourth of a mile long. It was 



VERSAILLES '. FROM PARIS TO LONDON. 229 

twenty years in building, and cost four million francs 
to restore it. Our guide said : "This is the largest 
palace in the world, except St. Peter's in Rome. 
There have been expended here one hundred and 
twenty-seven million francs." 

If I had a half-day's time, and say four columns 
more space, I might try to escort the reader up the 
broad, white stone steps, in through great columned 
and arched doorways, from hall to hall, from grand 
room to grand room, from magnificent gallery to glit- 
tering parlor, and from marble stairs to brilliant bed- 
rooms. See the bright oak floors, waxed like glass ! 
See the walls resplendent with paintings of French 
kings, queens, lords, marshals, painters, poets, archi- 
tects and great battles! Now we pass through a hall, 
for hundreds of feet, full of fine statues. Here are 
thirty-two great war paintings, 15x30 feet, in a hall 
five hundred feet long. Here a great painting of 
Louis Philip, 20x40 feet, on horseback, surrounded 
by hundreds of his friends; a gay scene! We are 
shown rooms where kings and queens were crowned 
and married, and where princes were born, and where 
queens slept. Here is a grand painting of Washing- 
ton and Lafayette at Yorktown. 

Here is the crowning scene of Napoleon and 
Josephine. Here is a gorgeous room all resplendent 
with marble arches, pillars and statues ; ceilings of 
green and silver, and crimson, purple and lavender, 
shining in gold; but I must not attempt to picture 
this solid, shining and painted magnificence, for it is 
like pillars of silver upholding clouds of gold amid 



23O IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

rainbows that span bright lakes and blooming gar- 
dens. In the court stands a massive and grand eques- 
trian statue of Louis XIV., termed Louis the Great. 
Now we pass through the garden and see fountains, 
flowers, lakes, statues, terraces and avenues of beauty, 
and walled gardens, as if in basements. 

On our return to the city we stopped at Sevres, an 
old town in the neighborhood of the city, where fine 
porcelain wares have been manufactured for ages. We 
entered the exhibition rooms and saw many fine and 
beautiful specimens of their handiwork. We came on 
by the walls of Paris, which are thirty-three feet high 
and circled by a deep moat. They extend around the 
older part of the city and cost $25,000,000. Then, on 
by the "Viaduct of Anteuil," a very graceful railway 
bridge one and a fourth of a mile in length. 

Now our carriage halts near the Grand Hotel, and 
as we shake hands we ask each other if we shall meet 
in a land of everlasting sunshine, amid splendors and 
glories eternal and indescribable, and be escorted for 
ages by guides angelic — winged guides of wonderful 
intelligence and unspeakable loveliness, whose feet are 
miracles of sculpture, whose hands are blessings from 
which emanate perennial health, whose breath is the 
rarest perfume, whose hair circles in crowns or falls in 
festoons of silver, whose eyes are like liquid diamonds, 
whose cheeks lend beauty to spring mornings, and 
whose heart is a thing of triumphant joy and undying 
beauty. 

I have mentioned that we dined at half-past six 
each day. We were at the Hotel St. Petersbourg, in a 



VERSAILLES: FROM PARIS TO LONDON. 27,1 

spacious and elegant dining hall surrounded by flow- 
ers. There were, perhaps, two hundred English- 
speaking people seated at the tables: young men and 
elderly men, young ladies and their parents, husbands 
and wives, etc.; some water drinkers and many wine 
drinkers. A young man from London, just across the 
table, said to me, " Mr. L., what did you think of the 
great highway, eight hundred miles long, which we 
were on to-day, and which is kept in such good order 
all the way? You have nothing like that in America, 
have you?" My attention, my imagination, and my 
national pride were appealed to and aroused, and I 
replied, " Oh, yes, we have a road more than thirty- 
five hundred miles long, which passes through a city 
of a million and a half inhabitants; the Atlantic 
throws shells upon it in the east, and the Pacific bathes 
its bright pebbles on the west; it passes by factories 
where labor of hand and machinery thunder together 
in rolling out buttons and locomotives, pins and bayo- 
nets, pop-guns and great cannon ; on by private resi- 
dences worth more than a million dollars each; on 
through dark and wide forests of pine, oak and wal- 
nut; on through vast groves of apples, peaches, 
grapes, oranges and lemons, across fields white with 
snow, and others white with cotton ; on by the mighty 
cataract where a hundred Seines fall straight down 
with an awful roar one hundred and sixty feet; on by 
great tideless seas of fresh water, where float the 
world's largest grain boats; on across a valley twelve 
hundred miles wide, where, in fields miles long, wave 
millions of acres of golden wheat, and corn with tas- 



232 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

sels of silver and emerald banners and streamers; over 
the largest rivers on earth, on through prairies where 
Indians yell and buffaloes bellow, and where glorious 
Indian summer manufactures her veil of blue; on over 
mountains that cool their white brows more than three 
perpendicular miles above the bright sands of the 
sounding sea; on under ledges of rock which wave 
pine-tree-plumes three thousand feet overhead; on 
where fiery-hearted monsters throw from the depths of 
earth lofty columns of boiling water; on where great, 
solemn and awful trees rear their lordly heads four 
hundred feet into the sky; on through sunny valleys 
where the river floors sparkle with silver and glitter 
with gold, and coming to the 'Golden Gate,' where 
Columbia bids 'good evening' to the sun, it is lulled 
to slumber by the everlasting murmur of the vast, 
motherly Pacific." 

My friend gazed at me and forgot to eat, and when 
I finished he exclaimed : " Is it possible ! Is that so ? " 
I replied, " Yes, sir ; and more, too." After dinner a 
pleasant elderly gentleman said to me : " From your 
remarks, you seem to be an American." "Yes, sir; I 
am from Wilkes-Barre, Pennsylvania." His name was 
John L. Lawson, of Philadelphia, and he knew a num- 
ber of prominent people in various portions of the 
state. He saw that I was a lover of America, her 
cities, railroads, etc., and he told me some things which 
I will briefly mention in his own words : " There are 
120,000 miles of railroads in the United States. The 
Pennsylvania Railroad Company control 12,000 miles 
of railroads. The Reading Railroad Company has 900 



VERSAILLES: FROM PARIS TO LONDON. 233 

miles of railroads underground. Philadelphia has 
two times as many houses as Paris, and as many houses 
as New York, Brooklyn and Boston, she having two 
hundred and ten thousand houses. Fifth avenue, New 
York, is a street of palaces, and there for miles scarcely 
a house rents for less than $4,000 per year. Philadel- 
phia has a street built up all the way for seven miles, 
and New York has a street nine miles long." 

I, as well as many others, noticed the almost entire 
absence of beggars, tatter-de-malions, old hags and 
wrinkled sinners in the streets of Paris, and I still am 
at loss to account for it, as I was not there long enough 
to find out where they stay or are kept, for they must 
have many old and poor people in so large a city. 
My experience is that the French people will not 
sell cheaply nor work cheaply. Their ideas are 
grand, and it requires much money to float pride 
upon grandeur. 

At 1 1 p. m. I entered a great stone railway station 
near the centre of the city. Here are guards and 
policemen, and soldiers with guns; iron gates and 
granite doorways, all looking like stern business. A 
long train backs in, I enter a compartment, but when 
I read on the door "Femmes," I see it is for ladies 
only, so I find another place. A great crowd of peo- 
ple are entering the cars with boxes, bags, shawls, 
rugs, coats, canes, umbrellas, etc., and I notice that 
some of them are bound for England and America 
after " doing the continent." A gentleman said to me, 
"Are you going direct to London?" "Yes, sir." "Will 
you please look after my son?" " Yes, sir." Then 



234 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

a bright, active boy of sixteen came into the compart- 
ment, and then two ladies with bandboxes and hand- 
bags entered, and soon we began to roll out of the 
great city. 

It was moonlight, and I shall not soon forget the 
pleasant ride through France, along the Seine, to the 
sea at Dieppe. There runs the silvery Seine for miles 
between rows of graceful poplars. Here are quiet, 
green meadows where cattle lie at rest, here are quiet 
farm-houses, and smoke ascends from a chimney here 
and there. Now we rush through quietly sleeping 
hamlets and towns which are still and lonely — nature, 
animate and inanimate, is recuperating. Now we see 
long streets all lit up and guarded for miles by street 
lamps, but we see no one stirring. This is Rouen, at 
three o'clock in the morning, a great city of France, 
sleeping. A gentleman said, " Women are not allowed 
on the streets of Rouen after 8 o'clock in the even- 
ing." What a contrast this is to Paris! 

Now, in the gray morning, we approach Dieppe, 
by the sea, where sixty-four miles of wild billows clap 
their hands, and shake their white heads, and shout, 
ha! ha! before we can reach the quiet town of New 
Haven, in the south of queenly old England. A young 
woman comes upon the boat and sells us fine, mellow 
pears, which proved to be just what some of us seemed 
to wish. At 7:20 a. m. we sail down the river, pass- 
ing a high cross standing on the wharf, where, time 
out of mind, the wives and daughters of sailors and 
fishermen have come to kneel and pray for the safety 
and success of dear ones. Now fearful eyes look out 



VERSAILLES : FROM PARIS TO LONDON. 235 

to sea and see Old Ocean dancing in green and white. 
We had been out upon the short, broken billows but 
a few minutes before my young friend and the two 
ladies were taken very ill with seasickness, as well as 
many others, and it was difficult to keep from laugh- 
ing at the ludicrous figures and faces made, but later 
when the faces of friends had assumed the color of 
death, and they lay stretched out on all sides, scarcely 
able to breathe, then we began to pity, and every half 
hour I went around to see if they were still breathing, 
and learn if there was anything I could do for them. 
But at last the smooth, white cliffs of England were 
seen through the mist and salt spray which almost 
constantly dashed over our sidewheel steamer. 

Now we enter the harbor of New Haven and I 
look to see if the sick ones have strength to walk 
ashore. Yes, they all, with but little help, gain terra 
firma and begin to be grateful. My young friend said : 
"I am always deathly ill when I cross the channel. I 
was certain I would be sick." Now I wish to see 
Wales, and they say you must go by the way of Lon- 
don. We enter a train and soon the horse with steel 
sinews and a red-hot heart snorts steam from his nos- 
trils and rushes with us through towns and meadows, 
over rivers and highways, through rocks and trees, 
through hills and dales till we again see Crystal Pal- 
ace, near great and smoky London. 



CHAPTER XXII. 

FROM LONDON TO CARDIFF, WALES. 

PROUD ENGLAND BY MOONLIGHT SHREWSBURY STATION 

— COFFEE, DOGS AND BABIES AT MIDNIGHT WELSH 

NAMES HILLS AND VALES WATER LEAPING INTO 

GREEN VALLEYS OLD MINES — CARDIFF — A LETTER 

FINDS A FRIEND AMONG HEAPS OF GOLD CARDIFF 

CASTLE — BUTE DOCKS THE ARCADE NAMES FROM 

ALL EUROPE GRAPES UNDER GLASS — A KIND FAM- 
ILY — PENARTH AND HOSPITALITY A POPULAR MAN 

THE ESPLANADE QUEENLY CITIES LULLED TO 

SLEEP CARRIAGES ROLL AND SHIPS ROCK — GUAR- 
DIAN SPIRITS ARE ANXIOUS WHERE MEN AND WOMEN 

MEET DESTINY GREAT PRINTING PRESS — A BUSY 

CITY — FAREWELL. 

At 4:15, on a rainy and gloomy afternoon, we 
arrived at London Bridge Station, where I was in- 
formed that if I wished to go on at once to Cardiff, 
Wales, I must go to Euston Station, so I raised a finger 
and soon a cabman rushed up, and in a moment I, 
with my baggage, was rapidly rolling through the 
busy streets of London, and, after a few miles' ride 
along streets crowded with lofty buildings, we came 
where great columns and arches told us we had reached 
the entrance of the massive and extensive Euston Sta- 



FROM LONDON TO CARDIFF, WALES. 237 

tion, where I was told a train would start for Cardiff 
about 10 o'clock p. m. Soon after 10 o'clock I find 
myself on a train rushing out through the cool, green 
country, and, the moon coming out, revealed many 
pleasing landscapes and quiet hamlets and towns. 
After a run of about three hours we ran into Shrews- 
bury, where many stately houses stood among fine 
trees. A net-work of railroads covered the ground, 
while the air above was woven full of wires, and sig- 
nal-boards rose and fell as the rods and levers clicked 
under the skillful touch of the watchful signal-worker, 
and the steel rails locked and unlocked at either end 
of the great station, which was about two hundred 
yards long and through which ran say ten railway 
tracks. Here we leave the train and enter a refresh- 
ment room, where young women are setting out coffee, 
tea, beer, sandwiches, scones, meat-pies, biscuits, etc., 
to a great crowd of people. Then we go into a gen- 
eral waiting-room, where men were nursing dogs, and 
women were nursing babies, and one poor man, 
stretched out on a seat with his head on his bag, was 
nursing a terrible cough. 

We passed through Shrewsbury and Hereford, and 
changed cars and stopped so often before we reached 
Wales that I began to wonder what awful thing I had 
done, that I should be so harassed here and there for 
eleven hours going to Wales' metropolis. I probably 
traveled a hundred miles farther than was really neces- 
sary that night, all of which proves that it pays to 
get started right. 

When morning came we gazed out upon Aber- 



238 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

gavenny Junction, and go on to Brynmar Junction 
and Nantwich, on through Rhymney, Pontlollyn, 
Tirphil, George Inn, Bargoed, Pengam, Hengoed, 
Ystrad, Pwllyphant, Caerphilly, Llanishan, and arrive 
at Cardiff. 

On the way I saw some of the most picturesque 
landscapes that I ever saw, small green valleys into 
which rushed many streams of water from high hills, 
some of which were smooth, some rocky, some 
wooded, and some that were covered with the debris 
of mines that had been worked generations ago. 
Cattle and sheep grazed in many green vales. Now 
we pass through old mining villages on mountains, 
where stone houses stand in long rows, and where 
coal and iron are shipped to distant markets. The 
varied forms and colors of the mountains make a 
pleasing picture, for some are green, some brown, and 
others yellow or black; some smooth, some jagged, 
some pyramidical, some oval, some conic, some ser- 
rated, and others with straight brows. 

Cardiff: Soon after reaching Cardiff, the chief 
seaport and largest city of Wales, I found my way to 
the office of the Taff Vale Railway, where I met Mr. 
Edward Edwards, brother of Mr. George A. Edwards, 
of Wilkes-Barre. Mr. Edwards was preparing to pay 
the employees of the railways, but the letter which I 
bore from his brother in far-away Wilkes-Barre took 
me in where thousands of gold sovereigns were being 
counted and parcelled out. The written word of a 
distant, but respected brother, caused me to be 
received with respect, friendship and confidence. Mr. 



FROM LONDON TO CARDIFF, WALES. 239 

Edwards went with me through the old city and 
pointed out places of interest. 

There is Cardiff Castle, the residence of the wealthy 
and powerful Marquis of Bute. Here are the tram- 
ways running to different parts of the city. Here is 
the Arcade, where nearly all kinds of goods are sold. 
Here is the old, commercial part of the city, where 
names from the north of Europe and the west of 
Europe — names from the snow-banks of Norway, the 
lemon groves of Italy and the vineyards of Spain, are 
painted over the doorways. Here in the great docks 
may be seen the sailing and steam craft of the world, 
loading and unloading, while sailors with unknown 
tongues and singular costumes pass here and there, or 
assemble in small companies. 

About noon I went with Mr. Edwards to his very 
pleasant residence at 37, The Walk, in a quiet 
beautiful street. Mr. Edwards has a kind and inter- 
esting family, of wife, sons and daughters. He took 
me into his greenhouse, where fine grapes of different 
species hung ripe, in large, luscious clusters, some of 
which bowed low to honor our presence. 

If England and Wales wish good grapes, they 
must ripen them under glass, or import them from 
climes more sunny. 

In the evening we went across the bay to Penarth, 
where Mr. James Edwards and his family live. 

Penarth is a handsome and enterprising town on a 
promontory just across the Cardiff bay. Here many 
pleasant residences crown the heights and command 
good views of land and sea, city and ships. Mr. 



240 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

James Edwards, brother of the Edwards mentioned 
above, is Collector of Harbor Dues, and is a man hav- 
ing authority. He is a handsome, portly, good-natured 
man, having a pleasant family and many friends. His 
"admiring friends" had recently presented him with a 
magnificent silver waiter and set, valued at five hun- 
dred dollars. Lodges and other institutions were 
named after him, all of which show that he is much 
respected. He was building for his own use a spa- 
cious and commodious house in a desirable part of 
the town. 

We took a walk down through romantic gateways, 
bowers, terraces and ravines, until we came to the 
"Esplanade," where the sounding sea sent salt spray 
to the feet of thousands of people who promenade 
there in search of health, peace, love, fame, knowledge, 
wealth and pleasure. Oh, ye esplanades, ye sands 
and strands of earth, where queenly cities sit by the 
heaving sea, where mighty waves dash against proud 
lands, where lights flash over dark waters, where car- 
riages roll on one side and ships toss on the other side, 
where men and women smile and frown, and where 
souls meet destiny! Ye are places of much interest 
for guardian spirits ! Ye are drawn in bright colors 
on Eternity's atlas ! 

I went with Mr. E. Edwards through the Cardiff 
Times printing office, belonging to the Duncans, where 
they kindly showed us through the establishment. 
We were shown a printing machine of great capacity, 
said to print and fold twenty-four thousand large papers 



FROM LONDON TO CARDIFF, WALES. 24 1 

in an hour. Young Mr. Duncan was just about ready- 
to sail for the United States, to take a hasty view of 
some of the wonders of the New World. 

The following morning William Edwards, son of 
Edward, went with me down along the docks, where 
great and small ships were discharging the world's 
various commodities. Here we saw the great 
granite-bound dock of the Marquis of Bute, which 
had lately been opened with much pomp. This dock 
covers thirty-seven acres. The docks of Cardiff cover 
one hundred and thirty-four acres. 

Cardiff, after Liverpool, London and Glasgow, is 
perhaps the chief seaport of the British Isles. The 
population of the city is estimated as high as one 
hundred and twenty thousand. I noticed many pleas- 
ant residences and fine stores in the place ; also a goodly 
number of churches and institutions of learning and 
of benevolence. I was surprised to hear nearly every 
one speaking English, and I am sure I have heard 
more Welsh spoken in Plymouth, Pa., in a given time 
than I heard in Cardiff. As we passed along Mr. 
Edwards said : " Here is the spot where a few days 
ago Lady Walker, sister of Lord Tredegar, was so 
injured in a runaway that she died yesterday." 

There is thirty-two feet difference between high 
tide and low tide here. The Taff Vale Railroad is 
ninety-four miles in extent and is chiefly for trans- 
porting coal, of which about nine million tons are 
carried every year, and it pays a large dividend. I 
was pleased with the kindly greetings and the business 

(16) 



242 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

habits of Cardiff, and though cordially urged by the 
Edwardses to remain over Sunday there, lack of time 
impelled me to leave them about Saturday noon, bound 
for fair Leamington, in one of the midland counties 
of England. I shall probably never forget the kind 
and friendly hospitality extended to me by the Ed- 
wardses in Cardiff and Penarth. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

FROM WALES TO SCOTLAND, VIA ENGLAND. 

TRAVELING IN LONDON RAILWAYS FLOODED GOLDEN 

APPLES LEAVING WALES OLD CASTLE BLOOD- 
CEMENTED "CAN WE SMOKE?" WRITING ON WHEELS 

RAPIDLY ROLLING — TOWNS, CASTLES, FARMS, RIVERS, 
MOUNTAINS BIRMINGHAM LEAMINGTON, WARWICK- 
SHIRE GOING TO MIDDLESBOROUGH HILLS AND 

DALES PURPLE SNOW KIND COUSINS IN AN IRON 

CITY VISITED BY SHIPS PARKS, ETC. STATUES FOR 

BRAINS AND ENTERPRISING WEALTH — ENROUTE TO 
EDINBURGH DURHAM THE CATHEDRAL POWER- 
FUL NEWCASTLE TWENTY-FIVE THOUSAND MEN 

MAKING GREAT GUNS, SHIPS, CHAINS, ENGINES AND 

CARS JUBILEE EXHIBITION — A BIG GUN THOUSANDS 

OF MODEST GIRLS SERVING OFF FOR EDINBURGH. 

A respected and aged man, of Kingston, Pa., told 
me recently that he had followed me on his atlas 
through all the countries and cities I had mentioned. 
And as further evidence that he had been interested 
in these letters, he said, " I noticed that you called a 
cabman to drive you from London Bridge station to 
Euston station; how far was it, and how much did you 
pay?" I could not tell him then, so I will mention it 
here. The distance is about two and a half miles, and 



244 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

I paid one shilling and six-pence, or thirty-six cents. 
In the central portion of London you pay a cabman 
for yourself and baggage that goes inside the cab, six- 
pence a mile, (twelve cents) baggage that goes outside 
in care of the driver costs extra. You cannot, how- 
ever, hire a cab for less than a shilling, (twenty-four 
cents,) thus a half a mile will cost you as much as two 
miles. Outside of the four-mile circle from Charing 
Cross, the cabmen charge you one shilling a mile. In 
old London proper, tram-cars (street-cars) are not 
allowed, but omnibuses and cabs are there in great 
numbers. 

London is a cluster of old and large towns. The 
tramways and railways are very numerous, and the 
Metropolitan railway runs underground and in a circle 
about eleven miles, and carries millions of people at a 
very low fare; two-pence pays for a number of miles. 
The Underground, or Metropolitan railway, mentioned 
above, runs in an oval circle under the city, and thus 
carries one to the near vicinity of many places in the 
great city, and you thus travel rapidly and quietly 
through the darkness under many miles of streets that 
are clashing and roaring with business and travel. 

Did I tell you that on the night of the terrible 
thunder storm, when we saw Buffalo Bill with his 
braves and wilds performing in a powerful rain, while 
electricity flashed from engines on earth and from 
black clouds in the heavens, these underground rail- 
ways were flooded with the great rush of water that 
was suddenly finding its way from the lakes in the 



FROM WALES TO SCOTLAND VIA ENGLAND. 245 

clouds to an earthly home in the muddy Thames, 
and travel underground was impeded for hours? 

Oh, how much of life can be seen while traveling 
in railways in London ! Lawyers, merchants, me- 
chanics, teachers, sewing-girls, beggars and tourists; 
some going to work, some to dinner, some going 
shopping, some returning ; some with game, some 
with fruit, some with bread, some with clothing. 
There is a woman with a small basket of poor, green 
apples, for which she paid four cents a pound, and 
here one with a pound of tomatoes, not large, for 
which she paid eighteen cents. All the apple orchards 
I saw in England would not equal a good New York 
state orchard. When you see large, red and golden 
apples in England you may know they crossed Atlan- 
tic's billows from warm, generous America, the most 
queenly daughter of Mother Earth. However, plums, 
gages, pears, currants, etc., do well in England. 

Before leaving Wales, perhaps I should mention 
the old castle at Caerphilly. This old, extensive and 
picturesque castle, which is in ruins, stands a few 
miles from Cardiff. The old round tower, which leans 
so much, still stands as it has stood for generations. 
This leaning was caused, I was told, by an explosion, 
but, as the cement which holds the stones together 
"was mixed in blood," it will not fall. I presume 
rather the cement was mixed by blood — good blood 
in strong arms and brave breasts. When I visit Wales 
again I shall probably remain there more than twenty- 
eight hours. 



246 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

I left Cardiff, South Wales, about half-past twelve; 
five men in the compartment with me. They seemed 
rather "jolly" Englishmen of the middle or farming 
class. They asked me if they might smoke. I said : 
" Yes ; I am from America ; I like liberty." One said : 
" Do not take any bad notes back about England or 
this party." If the word "Smoking" had been painted 
on the car door they need not have asked me if they 
could smoke. 

Here are some words as I wrote them in my note- 
book as we rushed say forty miles an hour : " On Great 
Western Railway ; level, green country ; most too 
swampy ; romantic country road, winding through 
groves, thickets and hedges. Newport — pleasant sea- 
port ; mountains a few miles to the north, and sea on 
the south ; pleasant green city ; woods, hill, moun- 
tains in distance ; hedge on top of cut each side of 
railroad ; green, cultivated mountain side to the north- 
west; turnip and potato fields; rock-cut on a curve, 
fifty feet deep and a thousand feet long, ivy-grown ; 
now fifty feet of a fill across a green vale. Chepstow 
— beautiful place ; tide comes up along high, rugged 
cliff, in small bay ; great ivy-grown castle among trees 
and hills; can not see whether it is in ruins or not; 
green fields, sloping hills ; the Severn or Cardigan bay 
on the other side; looks like a forest beyond the Sev- 
ern ; dash by stations so fast can not read the names. 
Lydney — small, pleasant place ; fine bridge over the 
Severn, iron pillars and spans. Newnham — village ; 
apple orchards ; fruit small and not much of it. Grange 
Court — pleasant farm region ; run through cuts, red, 



FROM WALES TO SCOTLAND VIA ENGLAND. 247 

green, white, yellow and black ; men plowing with four 
horses tandem. Gloucester —fine old city ; saw the 
fine; large cathedral. 

"Change here to Midland Railway for Birmingham ; 
pleasant gardens, mulberry trees, brick walls; fine 
farm country. Cheltenham — fine farm country; moun- 
tains in distance, quite fine, high, green. Worcester — 
'Union Hotel,' read the sign, 'patronized by H. R. H. 
the Duke of Cambridge, etc., quiet, comfortable and 
moderate; Mrs. Mirgfield, Proprietress;' fine, green 
country, full of shade trees. Droitwich — farm coun- 
try. Bromsgrove — Barnet — green country, rainbow; 
oats and beans in shock. King's Norton — fine coun- 
try, stone spire above stone tower. Gardens near 
Birmingham, fine, small, all hedged, green, full of 
vegetables, and fill the small vale. Five Views — now 
we enter Birmingham." 

As we run in by brick yards, coal yards, gas 
works, and through acres of cars and locomotives, the 
passengers begin to gather up their canes, umbrellas, 
baskets, coats and traveling bags, and I close my note- 
book and begin to get ready to contend with great, 
busy Birmingham. Here is a monster station, where 
the great arching roof spans the many trains rushing 
in and out to all parts of England. Hundreds of peo- 
ple are walking the high bridges above locomotives 
and cars trying to find the right platform and the right 
train, but many uniformed employees are hurrying 
here and there, and are ready to answer questions re- 
lating to time, trains, places, etc. 



248 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA 

I arrived at Leamington, in Warwickshire, about 6 
o'clock in the evening, where I remained over Sunday 
with cousins. The reader will remember the notes 
given above were taken as the train rushed forty or 
more miles an hour, and I might go on thus transcrib- 
ing from my note-book until we come to Edinburgh, 
" Bonny Scotland," but time does not admit of this 
now, neither can I write, at present, of the interesting 
visits made to Leamington, Warwick, Coventry and 
Stratford-on-Avon. Having returned to quaint, old 
Whitby, and visited friends there and at North Burton, 
Scarborough, Sleights and Sandsend, I bid good-bye 
to relatives and kind friends at Whitby and start for 
Liverpool, going away around through Scotland and 
Ireland. 

On my way to Middlesborough, going north, I 
might ride along on the cliffs and gaze on the sea, but 
I decided to go up the dales and wind along creeks 
among the moorland hills. The day was rainy, and 
yet the trip was an enjoyable one. As I passed the 
stations I wrote their names in my note-book, and a 
few words hastily. " Sleights — Egeton — Glaisedale — 
a beautiful little valley up a branch of the Esk ; green, 
uneven hills on each side, which undulate away to the 
'dry, dark wolds,' or moors. Lealholm — small ham- 
let; stacks, moors in distance. I like the scene much; 
high, dark hills beyond, through hill-gaps, fine. Grain 
still out, (Sept. 13th.) Danby — stone village, roofs of 
red tiles and slate; more moors; village on green hill 
near the moor. Castleton — high, dark mountain in 
distance, one nearly covered with heather and breckon; 



FROM WALES TO SCOTLAND VIA ENGLAND. 249 

moorland comes nearly down to the railroad. Com- 
mondale — small hamlet; now the purple heather 
comes down to the railroad. Oh, the purple-clad 
hills! smooth, barren, dark ; as if covered with purple 
snow. Kildale — hamlet; bold, dark promontory- 
stands out against the rainy sky, now wider valley. 
Battersby Junction — green plain; change here for 
Middlesborough ; yonder, on a high hill, stands Cap- 
tain Cook's (the circumnavigator's) monument, granite, 
about fifty feet high. Great Ayton — ' Roseberry top- 
pin ;' this is a high, conical mountain, running into the 
valley, very bold, 'wonderful view from its top.' 
Munthorpe — farm country. Ormsby — small place. 
Martin — fine town, graceful spires and a dome, and 
stately, clean roofs above fine trees. Here is Middles- 
borough." 

On Tuesday afternoon, Sept. 13, I arrived by train 
at Middlesborough, in the north of England, and soon 
found Mr. Richard Stainthrope, who was at the station 
awaiting my arrival. This kind friend was my cousin 
Anna's husband. He is a ship carpenter and has 
sailed wintry seas, where icy mountains float slowly 
through billows of cold, salt water, and again through 
sunny seas, where spicy islands breathed fragrant 
blessings on all around, and where cool waves foamed 
on the burning sands of India; but, now he is settled 
upon land in this city. He and Mrs. Stainthrope and 
a number of interesting children made my one day's 
visit here very pleasant. 

This city of sixty thousand inhabitants has come 
up in the present generation, and is a remarkable 



250 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

sample of enterprise, business and growth. In its 
size, appearance and business, it reminds me much of 
Scranton, Pa. The production of iron, and things 
made of iron, have made it a large and important city 
in comparatively a few years. We walked through 
the city and saw the fine town-hall, market square, 
iron, steel and salt works, docks, the stores, post- 
offices, churches, etc. We passed through Albert 
Park, fine, large, public grounds, which, though new, 
are beautiful, with lakes, fountains, shrubbery, trees, 
statues, swans, band stands, walks, drives, seats, flow- 
ers, arches, etc. In a few years it probably will be a 
very delightful retreat. 

I was shown statues of Mr. Vaughn and Mr. 
Bolckow, who were the founders of the city. One 
having furnished money and the other brains and 
enterprise, they began to turn the mountain of iron 
ore into wealth and life and beauty, and now their 
heroic forms stand in solid marble on great pedestals 
in the crowded squares of the city. 

My cousin pointed out twenty-seven blast furnaces 
and a number of salt wells. In the docks we saw 
many ships loading and unloading, while on the piers 
were piled thousands of tons of railroad iron — rails, 
chairs and ties. Some go to Egypt, some to India 
and some to Canada. The rails used on railways in 
England are double; that is, same on both sides, and 
when one side is worn out the other side is turned 
uppermost. 

Mr. S. said: "All these people here came up from 
nothing. There are a good many Jews here and we 



FROM WALES TO SCOTLAND VIA ENGLAND. 25 I 

think well of them." He said, " Rossvalley, the con- 
verted Jew, is here. Shall we go and hear him to- 
night?" "No, thank you; I heard him in Wilkes- 
Barre some years ago." 

In the park I was shown an oak tree, or a piece of 
one, five feet in diameter and weighing nine tons, 
nearly black as ebony, which had been taken up out 
of the bottom of the river Tees, where it had lain 
maybe for centuries. At 3:15 on Wednesday I bade 
good-bye to my kind cousins and went on toward 
Scotland. 

I passed through Stockton-on-Tees, a busy, smoky 
iron city, and went on through the county of Durham. 
Here is Eagle's Cliff, a small place in a level, green 
country; no hills in sight; did not seem to be rich 
soil. Passing Dinsdale, a small town, I came to Dar- 
lington, where there is a fine double station, say a 
thousand feet long. Here we change trains for Dur- 
ham and Newcastle-upon-Tyne. Darlington, large, 
smoky town, say fifty thousand inhabitants. Go on 
through beautiful meadows full of sheep and cows. 
Now we pass Ferry Hill Station and arrive at Durham. 

Durham lies in a hollow, and also runs up the 
sides and over the top of two or three hills. The 
railway runs over a high viaduct, and you look down 
on a large portion of the old city. Yonder is the 
grand, old cathedral, the most striking object within 
the range of vision, barring the sun and the earth. 
There, on an eminence, are Durham castle and public 
buildings, grand, massive, and substantial. Aside 



252 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

from these objects the city did not present to a flying 
view anything of special interest. Durham is on the 
river Wear. We ran through a green vale full of 
meadows, sheep and stacks of grain, and now look 
into a ravine full of woods where is seen a castle. 
Now we enter Gateshead on the Tyne, opposite New- 
castle. 

Now our train runs across the high bridge over the 
Tyne and we enter Newcastle, a powerful and enter- 
prising city, noted for coals and the construction of 
ships and cannon. The gray stone station is solid and 
spacious, the churches, the old castle, the cathedral, 
the banks, the hotels, the post-office and the stores are 
all rich, substantial buildings. The city wears an air 
of modern enterprise, business and solidity, which are 
very observable. Population about one hundred and 
fifty thousand. Gateshead opposite, has about eighty 
thousand people,' supported chiefly by iron works. A 
chain works there employs a thousand men; iron 
bridges are also built there, also glass and chemical 
works, and the railway shops of the North Eastern 
Railway employing three thousand men; also marine 
boiler works employing six hundred men. The high 
bridge mentioned above, which for forty years has 
been a valuable landmark, is about one hundred and 
twenty feet high, and is one-fourth of a mile long and 
has three tracks upon it. A carriage road runs across 
under the railway tracks. 

This enterprising city is talking of making a cir- 
cular underground railway under the city. While I 



FROM WALES TO SCOTLAND VIA ENGLAND. 253. 

was there a grand jubilee exhibition was going on,, 
which was attended by thousands each day. A large 
volume could scarcely contain the things to be seen 
here. Machinery, paintings, statuary, minerals, mines, 
bazaars, cannon, engines, cars, china, glass, terra cotta, 
curiosities, printing, models of ships, etc. Here was 
a model of one of Armstrong's great guns. These 
words were displayed on it: "Length, 524 inches; 
weight, 1 10*4 tons; shot, 1800 pounds; powder for 
charge, 960 pounds; velocity, 2148 feet per second; 
penetration, 33.7 inches." I understood that this tre- 
mendous engine of destruction could hurl nearly a 
ton of metal through more than thirty-three inches of 
iron plates. Here are Sir William Armstrong & Co.'s 
great works, where they employ more than twelve 
thousand men in making cannon and ships. These 
works are said to run along the river a distance of one 
and three-fourths miles. 

While at Newcastle I put up at the Crown Hotel,. 
Clayton street. It was substantial, neat, quiet, and 
the clerks and waiters were young ladies. I may here 
say I saw thousands of handsome, well-dressed and 
modest young women serving in shops, restaurants,, 
hotels, bakeries, confectioneries, etc., in the British 
Isles, and almost without an exception they conducted 
themselves like real ladies. The place impressed me 
as being busy, substantial, sensible. 

I went as far as North Shields along the river; 
returning, purchased a third-class ticket to Edinburgh 
for ten shillings and four-pence, which is one hundred 



254 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

and twenty-four pence, showing the distance to be one 
hundred and twenty-four miles. The train left New- 
castle-on-Tyne at 5 p. m. and at about 8 p. m. rolled 
into fair Edinburgh, but the things I saw and thought 
on the way must form a portion of next week's letter. 



''^^g*^'' 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND. 

HEALTH FINE WEATHER KINDNESS PLACES PASSED 

THROUGH THINGS NOTED — EDINBURGH A QUEENLY 

CITY GOSPEL HYMNS IN THE STREET ARTHUR'S SEAT 

CASTLE HILL CALTON HILL A SLOUGH TURNED 

INTO A FLOWERY VALE FULL OF LOCOMOTIVES AND 

BUSINESS THE OLD CANNON-CROWNED CASTLE 

SIR WALTER SCOTT'S FINE MONUMENT THE MOUND 

GRANITE CITY SPIRES, MONUMENTS, ETC. HOLYROOD 

PALACE BIRD'S-EYE VIEW — BAGPIPES AND ARTIL- 
LERY PLAIDED AND PLUMED SOLDIERS, ETC. 

I am assured by words spoken and written that 
many readers have followed quite closely all the way 
gone over by these letters, and now, as we enter the 
north country, I trust my humble account may not be 
unworthy of "Bonny Scotland," nor uninteresting to 
our readers. I often wish that I could describe the 
landscapes, cities and people more vividly, so that the 
reader might perhaps see them with a more discerning 
and intelligent eye than the writer possesses. It is 
true that, being well all the time and blessed with the 
finest weather possible to these regions, and permitted 
to roam in and around places long since seen in atlases 
or read of in school books or histories, was a pleasure 



256 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

so great as to banish care, loneliness and home-sick- 
ness. Of course, for various reasons, I dare not promise 
everyone so enjoyable a time should they go there. 

In one of my note-books I find these words written : 
"The sea smiled to please me and frowned to awe and 
teach me. The bright, open heavens beamed with 
good weather. Epidemics did not rage ; mobs did 
not roar, and steam was not rebellious. Strangers 
received me courteously and we parted lasting friends. 
Relatives rejoiced at my coming, and when I departed 
we shook hands amid falling tears." I bring in this 
apparent digression to show that while absent I was 
thoughtful, grateful and active, and that I also wish 
to claim the reader's attention for some of the very 
interesting objects and places seen in Scotland and 
Ireland, and also in the return voyage on the waves 
of the sea. 

As I have mentioned, the train left Newcastle at 
5 p. m. and arrived at Edinburgh, one hundred and 
twenty-four miles away, between 8 and 9 p. m. I took 
the train at the Central Station in Newcastle. This 
station is a grand, large, solid stone structure, say 
three hundred by five hundred feet, with glass roofs. 

September 16th, the weather is May-like. We 
ran out northward through a green, level country and 
saw many fields of wheat and oats still out. Our 
train is an express and stops seldom — not much time 
for stops when they go from London to Edinburgh, 
four hundred miles, in eight hours. I will mention 
some of the places we ran through : Killingworth, 
Anitsford, Gramilton, Plessey, Netherton, Morpeth, 



EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND. 257 

Warkworth, Christobank, Fallcon, Chathill, Newham, 
Belford, Beal, Screnerston, Spital, Tweedmouth, Ber- 
wick-on-Twecd (and also on a cliff overlooking the 
sea — about fifteen thousand inhabitants, six or eight 
nice spires ; Berwick is here pronounced Berick ; the 
"w" is silent), Bournmouth, Dunbar, Drem. Now it 
is dark. While traveling on trains I wrote nearly all 
the time of what I saw from the car windows, and this 
habit no doubt had much to do in keeping me from 
loneliness and weariness, for I could rest all day on a 
train, but at night found it very tiresome riding in cars. 
For say an hour as we rushed along I noted some 
things I saw, and this is the result : Bridges run under, 
35 ; sheep in many fields, 3,200; cows and other cat- 
tle, 250; stacks of grain, etc., 155; fields of wheat 
still out, 34; oats, 15; turnips, 37; beans, 7. After 
running an hour or more after dark, we run into a 
tunnel and soon the train stands still in the deep heart 
of great and beautiful Edinburgh, a city of two hun- 
dred and fifty thousand inhabitants. 

I looked up and saw a castle-like building on a 
ledge, and was told that it was the jail. Leaving the 
train, I walk up a hundred or more stone steps and 
enter a broad, beautiful, busy street. This is Prince's 
street, the finest in the city, and lined with fine, tall 
buildings on one side and monuments on the other. 
I went to the Waverly Hotel, but it was full, so I went 
over and up into High street and was cared for at 
Buchannan's Temperance Hotel. At the corner, near 
the hotel, a large company of people were singing 
familiar hymns, such as are heard at camp-meetings 

(17) 



258 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

in America. I was told that it was a " Mission Band" 
that sing, talk and pray in the street every evening in 
the year. It sounded much like home. Those gospel 
hymns are encircling this little world, and "when 
crowns and kingdoms in the dust are laid," they will 
still be young, vigorous and powerful. 

Edinburgh, (always here and in England pro- 
nounced Edinboro,) is considered one of the most 
beautiful cities on earth, for nature and art have done 
much to beautify the spot, while antiquity, romance, 
and war, also throw a charmed halo around it. 

The city is situated on two hills and in one valley, 
and on two plains, while a blue arm of the sea, (the 
Frith of Forth) stretches along to the north, about 
two miles away, and to the east and south stand 
guard a number of bold, picturesque crags and hills, 
most conspicuous of which are Salsbury Crag and 
Arthur's Seat. Arthur's Seat, a mount which rises 
abruptly to the height of eight hundred and twenty- 
two feet, in the distance, somewhat resembles the form 
of a lion crouching, and from this eminence can be 
seen nearly all of the city and a portion, at least, of a 
number of counties, or shires, as they are here called. 

As the atmosphere was not clear the days I was 
there, I did not go to the top of Arthur's Seat, but was 
content with ascending Castle Hill, Calton Hill, Sir 
Walter Scott's Monument, and other eminences. The 
two high hills, Castle and Calton, upon which import- 
ant portions of Edinburgh are built, remind me of 
two lions lying, one looking to the east and the other 
to the west, while a narrow valley lies between. It is 



EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND. 259 

perhaps but a mile from the old Castle on the hill 
facing westward to Nelson's monument on the hill 
looking eastward. 

Years ago a lake, or unsightly slough, lay in this 
vale in the centre of the city; now this valley roars 
with the trade and travel of kingdoms, while gardens, 
flowers, shrubs, and trees, also abound here, presenting 
beauty and exhaling fragrance, while tall and hand- 
some buildings, public and private, cover the sides 
and tops of the hills. Great engines and trains are 
almost constantly rolling along the steel grooves in this 
narrow valley, over which fine, strong bridges stand to 
carry multitudes of people and vehicles. 

A busy and interesting scene presents itself in the 
great railway stations in this vale. Trains rushing in 
and out — acres of depots and markets under glass 
roofs — hundreds of people seeking the right train, — 
many draymen with great, ponderous horses and carts, 
coming and going with immense packages of merchan- 
dise, and as you see the letters, " North British Rail- 
way," on the harness, and carts, and engines, and ware- 
houses, you are considerably impressed with the solid- 
ity and importance of this company. I think I never 
saw a vale in which so much business and beauty 
clustered as in this. Where once an unwholesome 
marsh held sway, now great railway trains rush along 
under viaducts and temples, and almost under the 
lofty, cannon-crowned castle which clings to the 
abrupt rock hundreds of feet above. Yes, it was an 
interesting sight to see the locomotive, the modern 
giant, rushing along under the walls of a castle more 



260 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

than a thousand years old, built before the discovery 
of gunpowder, and when brave men dressed in brass 
and steel as they went out to battle. Now, our armor 
to be efficient must be several feet in thickness of iron 
or steel, and can only be worn by great fortresses on 
land and sea. Now, since nations go to war with the 
clamor and force of thunder storms; yes, armed with 
lightning, wars must become less frequent. 

Here is Sir Walter Scott's magnificent memorial. 
This is one of the three most beautiful monuments I 
have seen. It stands on the south side of Prince's 
street, nearly opposite McGregor's Royal Hotel. A 
guide standing near said: "This monument cost 
seventeen thousand pounds; foundation walls laid (52 
feet deep) in 1840, and monument finished in 1845. It 
is two hundred feet and six inches high, and two hun- 
dred and eighty-seven steps take you to the top of the 
fourth gallery, one hundred and eighty feet from the 
pavement. The sitting statue of Sir Walter, which sits 
in a raised position at the centre of the monument and 
in plain view, cost two thousand pounds." The mon- 
ment is of stone, finely carved, and full of niches con- 
taining statues. It stands upon eight handsome 
clustered pillars, and is so graceful in its proportions 
that it is almost impossible for one to believe it to be 
two hundred feet high, until he ascends it. I paid 
two-pence and ascended. After winding around and 
around, up through a narrow stairway in cut rock, you 
come out upon the first gallery and commence to look 
down upon the city, but you must go on to the fourth 
gallery before you see the real height and beauty o£ 



EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND. 26 1 

the place and its surroundings. This monument is 
very graceful and elaborate, and in form is much like 
the Albert Memorial in London. 

Now let us look down and around the city. At 
our feet are beautiful gardens full of flowers, containing 
statues of eminent persons ; and just beyond us is the 
deep ravine through which run the railways above 
mentioned, and there on the Mound stand two massive 
columned buildings, the Museum of Antiquities and 
the National Gallery of Art. The Mound is a pleasing 
feature of the scene ; it is a work of man, and is a 
broad embankment thrown across and filling up the 
valley to the level of Prince's street. On this Mound 
are the fine buildings mentioned, while the railways 
run through tunnels at the base of the Mound and 
along at the base of the Castle Crag they run through 
pleasant groves carpeted with grass. 

The buildings of Edinburgh are of gray stone. I 
did not see one of wood or one wholly of brick. Let 
• us look again ; there to the right is the old castle with 
its walls running around the edge of the precipice. 
Yonder on the left is the Calton Hill, where stand 
Nelson's fine monument, the Royal Observatory, the 
unfinished and picturesque National monument, and a 
number of other graceful monuments. Churches, col- 
leges, cathedrals and monuments and public buildings 
are seen in nearly every direction. 

Yonder, nearly a mile away, in a narrow valley, 
near the foot of Salsbury Crag, is the extensive and 
very handsome Holyrood Palace, where royalty lodge 
when they visit Edinburgh. The place is ancient, 



262 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

and thrilling romances and tragedies have had origin 
here. The very elegant fountain there is much praised, 
while the ruins of the chapel are extensive and very- 
interesting. Yonder to the south are Salsbury Crag 
and Arthur's Seat, and away to the west are the Pent- 
land Hills, and there to the north is Leith (along the 
Frith of Forth), the harbor for Edinburgh. Now look 
along the street, somewhat more than a mile long, 
from Holyrood Palace on the plain to the top of Cas- 
tle Hill, a gradual incline, up which runs a famous old 
street built up all the way and containing many old 
buildings made famous in history by the acts and 
lives of good, bad, wise and great people. 

There on the level sits great, historic Holyrood, 
full of wealth, beauty and art, and yonder, more than 
four hundred feet above the level, is the old castle 
which was the residence and stronghold of mighty 
chiefs and kings many ages ago. The bagpipes are 
still heard there mingling with the roar of artillery 
as the tall and graceful soldiers march to and fro in 
the gay plaids and picturesque costume of centuries 
past. Here below and in broad, gay Prince's street 
are seen the multitudes on foot, and in carriages and 
tram-cars, going here and there on the various errands 
of business and traveling life, while the clash and roar 
of the city roll up to us, wave above wave. 



CHAPTER XXV. 

EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND. 

ANCIENT BANNERS WAVED OVER THE BIRTH OF KINGS 

AND QUEENS HER BEAUTY AND GLORY A GRAND 

RIDE — TALL BUILDINGS ON LEDGES HIGH STREET 

KNOX'S HOUSE THE OLD CASTLE FIVE HUNDRED 

FEET ABOVE THE SEA SOLDIERS IN RED COATS, AND 

IN KILTS, WITH SWORDS, SKEAN DHUS AND SPORRANS 

A GREAT CITY DRESSED IN GRAY STONE GRASS MAR- 
KET — st. Margaret's chapel — mon's meg — stone 

CANNON-BALLS CROWN JEWELS QUEEN MARY'S 

BED-ROOM A CANNON ROARS AT ONE O'CLOCK, 

TOUCHED BY FINGERS FOUR HUNDRED MILES LONG 

WHAT IS MAN CALTON HILL NELSON'S MONU- 
MENT TWELVE COLUMNS; SCOTLAND'S " PRIDE AND 

SHAME" A TEMPLE DESERTED ITS PORTICO. 

The history of Edinburgh goes back to early in 
the Christian era, and it has been a place of import- 
ance for say a thousand years. Yes, it is allowable to 
call that place important where castles were built, and 
defended by soldiers; where armies fought and en- 
camped; where chieftains, princes and kings upreared 
glittering banners, and brave men gathered around 
swearing to be true to their master and their country; 
where kings and queens were born, lived and died ;, 



264 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

where temples were reared for worship and for 
learning. 

Poets have sung of the beauty and romance of the 
place, and I will not try to surpass nor try to equal 
them. With its high, bold hills crowned with castles, 
■cathedrals, pillared temples, monuments, arches, col- 
umns and domes; and its plains crowded with stores, 
•colleges, parks, residences, public buildings, and 
churches with tall spires, and broad streets full of 
statues; and its vales full of railways, markets and 
gardens; and all its high places gazing away to the 
blue sea on the other side, it has been called the 
" Modern Athens." 

Sir David Wilkie says : " What the tour of Europe 
was necessary to see elsewhere, I now find congre- 
gated in this one city. Here are alike the beauties of 
Prague and of Salsburg; here are the romantic sites 
of Orvieto and Tivoli, of Genoa and Naples; here, in- 
deed, to the poet's fancy, may be realized the Roman 
Capitol and Grecian Acropolis." 

I mounted to the top of the street-car and for a 
very few pence was carried around four or five miles 
on the circular railway. I can not tell of the hospit- 
als, universities, museums, churches, etc., that we 
passed ; but it was a very enjoyable ride. Yonder, on 
the left, are bold, rugged Salsbury Crag and Arthur's 
Seat, and on the right are "The Meadows," beautiful, 
public grounds, surrounded by pleasant and handsome 
residences. Now we come out where fine stone man- 
sions line both sides of the street. Here reside many 
•of the people of wealth. High, solid stone walls and 



EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND. 265 

iron gates cut off the view and make it somewhat 
difficult to see the fountains, flowers, statues, etc., 
which adorn these ivy-grown residences and walls ; 
but my elevated position, the second story of a street- 
car, gives me a good opportunity to see how these 
people live, or rather what they live in. Now we pass 
three handsome stone churches and come into West 
Prince's street. I have already attempted to speak of 
the beauty of this stately street. You have heard of 
the tall buildings of Edinburgh. A few of the build- 
ings are ten and others eleven stories high, and many 
of them six, seven or eight stories. They might aver- 
age six stories throughout the business portion of the 
city. But at night, when one looks up to Castle Hill 
and counts the lights, he might almost think he saw 
buildings of eighteen or twenty stories in height, for 
there buildings stand on ledges above buildings. Now 
let us go to the Old Castle. 

Here is High street. There is "John Knox's 
house." The street is smooth, of medium width and 
lined with good buildings, and ascends gradually until 
we are now in the broad esplanade leading up to the 
castle. Here are monuments to some of Scotland's 
great soldiers and others. Here is the old draw- 
bridge, which is ancient and ponderous, with walls 
nearly twenty feet thick. Here are guides waiting to 
escort us ; here are cabs awaiting the return of sight- 
seers ; here are soldiers in red coats and others in plaids, 
and kilts, and scarfs ; in caps and bonnets ; with guns, 
swords, bayonets, sporrans, skean dhus and bagpipes. 

This castle on a rock, nearly five hundred feet above 



266 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

the sea, covers about eleven acres, and runs back into 
history, I was told, to A. D. 320. Now we wind 
around among walls and the various buildings of the 
castle until we stand at the top surrounded by walls, 
cannon, soldiers and many sight-seers. Now we look 
down upon fair Edinburgh. I do not expect to see a 
more beautiful sight on earth. A great city dressed 
in gray stone finely cut and skillfully laid up. 

Yonder is graceful Calton Hill crowned with domes, 
columns and arches, all clear-cut against the back- 
ground of the sky ; and on the south-west here, far 
below us, is the Grass Market, a pleasant, open place 
where farmers bring produce and sell to the shop- 
keepers and others. On the other side, far below us 
also, and beyond the vale and railways, are Prince's 
and other grand streets. To confine our attention to 
the castle : here is St. Margaret's Chapel, which dates 
back to 1093. This is called the oldest building in 
Edinburgh and the smallest chapel in Scotland. The 
small windows are of fine colored glass, and the place 
wears an ancient and sombre aspect. Here is " Mons 
Meg," an old cannon four hundred and one years old, 
and weighs six tons, and near it are several stone 
cannon balls about fifteen inches in diameter. Large 
marbles, boys ; but they would roll down hill grandly. 
This old gun is of wrought-iron, with heavy bands 
wrapped around and around it. Of course it is use- 
less now, except as a relic or as old iron. I went in 
and saw the crown jewels of Scotland ; i. e., the crown, 
sceptre, etc., and the heavy oak chest in which they 
were preserved so long. I also went into Queen 



EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND. 267 

Mary's bedroom, where James I. of England and VI. 
of Scotland was born. 

Now it is nearly I o'clock, and there is a long row 
of cannon. Cannon No. 6 was charged and rolled to 
the port-hole and the electric wire attached to it, and 
as I stood there on the castle-crowned rock in Edin- 
burgh of the North, with watch in hand, the cannon 
boomed over the city and the great ball rose and fell 
on the top of Nelson's monument on Calton HilL 
The gun was discharged from Greenwich, four hun- 
dred miles away. This gives London time to Scotland 
every day at I o'clock. Though the pendulum swings 
in Greenwich, the clock strikes in Edinburgh. Truly, 
man has sought out many inventions. Three thou- 
sand years ago the poet David asked : " What is man ? " 
I wonder how he would express it now if he could 
ask the question again. I'll warrant you there would 
be a long line of interrogation and exclamation points. 
The guide has matters of interest to tell of almost 
every doorway, window and room, but time fails at 
present, so I will go down from the castle and find my 
way to Calton Hill. 

This sightly hill commands a view of Holyrood 
Palace, of Leith, of the Frith of Forth, and a large 
part of the city. Nelson's monument, a tall, hand- 
some, round, stone tower, attracts the chief attention- 
Its size and position show how that great, lion-hearted 
naval officer is appreciated by Scotland's brave and 
honest sons. Here are also monuments to Robert 
Burns and other eminent Scotchmen, the Royal Ob- 
servatory, and the unfinished National Monument. 



268 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

This is called by some "Scotland's Pride and Shame." 
Some years ago they began the erection of a building, 
which was to imitate the Pantheon at Rome, but lack 
of interest or funds led to its abandonment, and now 
we see twelve large columns, say forty feet tall, stand- 
ing there, with masonry binding them together on 
top. An architect would call this masonry on top of 
the columns the entablature. These columns are said 
to have cost five thousand dollars each. They form 
an interesting feature of the landscape and remind 
you of the portico of some mighty temple of the 
hoary past. This unfinished structure of twelve mas- 
sive columns caused me to think of things pre-historic 
and seemed to speak of a vast and ancient temple that 
had been ground to dust by the revolving wheels of 
Time. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

edinburgh and dunfermline, scotland. 

edinburgh like home sober people magnificent 

squares oases in chiseled rock five stories 

cut in granite giant breaking from glass fet- 
ters — on the way to dunfermline steel span- 
ning sea waves through a mountain by inver- 

keithing — Scotland's old capital — ruins — 

electricity flashes greetings metalic horses 

— linen factories wheels thunder and shut- 
tles flash thirteen thousand women kind 

friends — goods pictured for columbia a walk 

steel columns above blue hills andrew 

carnegie — princely giver — scotch hospitality 

old palace ruins interesting fine old 

church deceptive pillars pictures in glass 

tombs of kings curfew rings here the looms 

battle working in factories parents of 

friends — hospitality makes angels. 

Now, as I get ready to depart from stately Edin- 
burgh, her beauty, and peace, and order, and her 
spirit of sober industry appeal to my admiration and 
love all the stronger. Like a blessing, we do not 
know how sweet, cheering and ennobling it was until it 
leaves us. 



27O IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

I find these words in my note-book, written while 
on the top of a street-car returning from Leith: 
" More people looked at me friendly and kindly, as if 
they knew me in Edinburgh, than in any other place." 
Ladies and others look, dress and speak about the 
same here as they do in Wilkes-Barre, Pa. I do not 
remember to have seen a drunken man in Scotland, 
and I think I did not see five drunken persons in my 
travels beyond the sea. I did see men and women 
sleeping on the stones of London Bridge late at night, 
and others on the pavements in Liverpool at 4 o'clock 
in the morning, but they were poor, homeless people, 
and perhaps harmless, for policemen did not molest 
them. I remembered the great One who had slept in 
a stone cradle, and of one who, on a stone pillow, 
dreamed of a ladder reaching into the realms of eternal 
sunshine, comfort and glory. I heard very little pro- 
fanity. I saw but little poverty and suffering, and little 
or nothing of criminals. I did not seek vulgarity and 
vice, and I did not see them. I looked for beauty and 
art and things glorious, and saw them. Yes, we find 
what we seek heartily. 

I walked up by St. Andrew Square, on an emin- 
ence, from which you can look from the heart of the 
great, busy city, away out on the bright, blue sea, 
which is always a thing of beauty, glory and health. 
This square is cool with trees, flowers, fountains and 
grass, arranged in forms to please the eye, cheer the 
heart and rest the body. It looks like an oasis in a 
region of chiseled rock, as indeed it is. I walked 
through George street, which is about three-fourths of 



EDINBURGH AND DUNFERMLINE. 2J \ 

a mile long and one hundred and twenty-five feet wide, 
between the buildings, nearly all of which are resi- 
dences five stories high. I saw not a tree in this 
street. There were say six handsome statues sitting 
on great pedestals in the middle of the street, among 
which were those of George IV., William Pitt and Dr. 
Chalmers. The street, which was clean, was rock- 
paved, and it all looked so solid, like a five story 
channel cut in granite. 

Now I come around where a lofty and massive 
viaduct of stone upholds a great street as it runs over 
another street which leads down into the railway- 
crowded vale, where great steel bands stretch away to 
the north, south and west, to form a safe highway for 
nations. 

Here is a crowd in the street. I also look and see 
that a chemist's boy had broken a large glass bottle 
of some powerful acid, and smoke is ascending from 
the paper wrapper on the stone pavement. A pungent 
exhalation assails eyes and throat. I congratulated 
him that it did not scatter over his clothing and per- 
son. I then thought of the corrosive, withering, 
blasting, deadening and destructive power of acids, 
alcohol, opium, dynamite and powder — good servants, 
but remorseless masters. They are worse than Shy- 
lock, for they need not account to man nor their 
Creator, and so they claim and take the "pound of 
flesh." 

On the morning of September 17th, I went down 
to the great Waverly station and at 7:15 we started 
for Queen's Ferry. Our train ran out under the Mound 



272 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

through the pleasant gardens already mentioned, along 
and almost under the frowning rocks of Castle Hill, 
then in under the city for say half a mile, and now 
we emerge into the fresh, green country, galloping 
towards the Frith of Forth, while the Pentland hills 
appear away to the left. I saw hundreds of stacks of 
grain and hundreds of sheep. Of course, the barns 
are not large enough to hold all the produce, and the 
hay and grain are stacked near the barn or barns and 
look like a village of conical houses, well built and 
well thatched. 

We ran by Ratho, Kirkliston, and came to South 
Queen's Ferry, on the Frith of Forth, where a most 
stupendous cantilever bridge is being erected, which 
shall be mentioned later. We went on around, another 
mile, to Port Edgar and took passage on ferry-boat 
"John Beaumont" for North Queen's Ferry, in Fife- 
shire. 

Now we take the train for Dunfermline, running 
under a mountain, along by rocks, through ravines, 
groves and fields of oats, potatoes and turnips. The 
potato fields are very green yet. We passed Inver- 
keithing, a very old and quaint town or village. Yon- 
der, on higher ground, are seen spires, and towers, and 
roofs, partially veiled in smoke, which I am told is 
Dunfermline, after reaching which, I inquired the way 
to the home of Mr. Alexander Bennett, Sr., and son, 
to whom I was recommended by Mr. Charles Graham, 
of Scranton. I remained over Sunday with these hos- 
pitable people in this ancient and very interesting city. 

Dunfermline, now a city of about twenty thousand 



EDINBURGH AND DUNFERMLINE. 273 

inhabitants, is one of the oldest places in Scotland, in 
fact, it was the ancient capital of Scotland. It is known 
in history for nearly a thousand years, but previous to 
that time it is veiled in the mists of oblivion. Here 
are interesting and picturesque ruins of palaces and 
temples where centuries ago crowned heads had 
fought, lived and worshiped, and sought safety within 
thick walls of rock and ponderous gates, where hardy 
soldiers armed with swords, battle-axes, spears and 
bows and arrows, stood guard night and day, while 
storms of thunder and storms of war shook the fair, 
fertile isles of Britain. Now electricity flashes friendly 
greetings from the Lowlands to the Highlands, and 
Aberdeen, Balmoral, Dunfermline, Edinburgh and 
Glasgow salute London, Birmingham, York, Cardiff 
and Dublin before breakfast, while ten thousand 
bright, metalic horses, far more fleet and powerful 
than Job's war-horse, take up and bear away burdens, 
and soon their voices are heard on the hills and in the 
crowded marts of trade, shouting, "Ha! ha! lam 
here, and still you rest !" 

Dunfermline is situated on elevated ground, a few 
miles north of the Frith of Forth, in Fifeshire. It is 
noted chiefly for the manufacture of linen fabrics, such 
as table-cloths, towels, napkins, etc. There are ten of 
these factories here. Beverege's is the most extensive, 
and they employ about one thousand persons, nearly 
all of whom are girls and women. 

Mr. Bennett said, "Of the twenty thousand peo- 
ple here about two-thirds of them are women." Many 
employees come from villages and towns at some dis- 

(18) 



274 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

tance around. I have already mentioned that I car- 
ried letters to Mr. Alexander Bennett, from Mr. 
Charles Graham, of Scranton. They were old friends, 
having learned their trade in the same shops, in Dun- 
fermline Mr. Bennett and his son live in Foundry 
street. 

These people were pleased to see me and treated 
me with much hospitality during the two days I could 
remain with them. They have a foundry and machine 
shop in which is some good machinery, and they were 
quite busy in turning out and putting up work in towns 
about. Mr. Bennett took me to Steele's linen factory 
and Mr. Davison, the foreman, kindly showed us 
through the works, in which were three hundred and 
thirty looms and about three hundred employees, 
nearly all females. The looms and machinery clicked 
and roared almost like thunder, and the flashing of 
the shuttles as they played back and forth was like 
lightning. We saw the work in various stages, but 
the most interesting to me was to see how the 
machinery followed the intricate maze of the pattern 
to produce figures and pictures and words upon the 
fabrics. 

It was a curious sight to see those looms in a for- 
eign land weaving in the mottoes, the banners, the 
coat of arms and the portraits of the United States 
into goods which, of course, were being made for 
American merchants. I asked, " How much do these 
workers earn ?" and was told : "We pay them once a 
fortnight and they earn from sixteen to forty shillings." 

As mentioned, this is one of the oldest towns in 



EDINBURGH AND DUNFERMLINE. 275 

Scotland, and while some of the residences are quite 
modern, others are very ancient looking. I noticed 
many places where the entrance to the stone buildings 
was through a passage-way at one side, or between 
buildings, and in the rear there were courts or closes 
with entrances into the buildings, and in many instances 
a flight of stone steps, running same way as the pave- 
ment, would lead up say five feet to the door-way of 
the houses. In a city where there is so much to think 
of and say in so brief a space, one hardly knows what 
to write and what to leave out, so I will leave my notes 
and write chiefly from memory, almost haphazard. 

Miss Bennett kindly piloted me about the town 
one afternoon. We came to an eminence in the park 
from which we could overlook the country for miles 
around. The country was still green and fresh, and 
there, six miles away, could be seen the mighty steel 
columns, towering above high hills, which are to bear 
up the great bridge over the Frith of Forth. When 
you can see a work of man so plainly at such a dis- 
tance, overcoming the sea, the delicate blue veil of 
smoke, and rugged, tree-crowned hills, you may know 
it is a majestic work. We saw the churches and the 
public buildings, and the extensive works and ware- 
houses of the Beverege Bros. The Bevereges are 
wealthy and live in palaces in pleasant places. If men 
are diligent and prudent in their own business they 
may stand before kings, if they should happen to care 
to do so. 

Here is the little house where the famous Andrew 
Carnegie was born. You have heard of Carnegie, the 



276 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

brilliant Scotchman who has made so much money at 
Pittsburg, and given so much to Edinburgh and to 
Dunfermline, his native town. He was in those places 
when I was there and the papers were full of his 
praise. His father was a hand-loom weaver. His 
mother was mentioned as a woman of powerful char- 
acteristics and fine qualities. She was the daughter 
of Robert Morrison, a celebrated Chartist. 

The Carnegies were poor when Andrew was a boy, 
and when they came to America they borrowed the 
money to come with of a lady who is living still, I un- 
derstand, and who is remembered substantially by 
Mr. Carnegie. Carnegie has given thousands of 
pounds to Dunfermline to build and endow baths, 
libraries, etc. I think I noticed that Dunfermline peo- 
ple did not quite relish his giving the two hundred 
and fifty thousand dollars to Edinburgh for a library, 
and some intimated that the money expended in Dun- 
fermline might have been laid out to more advantage 
to the people. These probably thought his largest 
gifts should have been to his native town. 

We called on Mrs. Henderson, aunt of Miss Ben- 
nett, and were cordially received. Scotland, of course, 
is famous for hospitality. You hardly can get seated 
in a Scottish house before food and drink are set be- 
fore you, especially drink. Yes, the traveler will have 
his temperance qualities tried when he finds Scotland. 
When I remembered how dangerous and unpleasant 
it is to refuse to smoke the pipe with an American In- 
dian, it somewhat modified my conduct in Scotland. 
It is a remarkable fact that the same kind of food and 



EDINBURGH AND DUNFERMLINE. 277 

drink appear to taste differently and affect one differ- 
ently in the British Isles from what they do in 
America. 

Now we have come to the ruins of a once grand 
and extensive palace, and those of a monastery. 
Here is a high and thick wall running along a rock on 
the brow of an eminence, which looks down into a 
deep, shady ravine, where flows a brook. Great trees 
grow on either side of this old wall, through which 
are openings where doors, windows, closets and fire- 
places once were. Yes, large trees stand there, on 
ground which for ages was covered and enclosed by 
halls and dining, dancing, sitting and sleeping-rooms, 
where crowned heads, princes and lords resided, vis- 
ited and feasted ; where they planned, suffered and died 
like other poor people. Neil Paton, a half-uncle of 
the famous painter, Noel Paton, had charge of these 
old ruins and escorted us around. He told us that 
the palace was founded by Malcom Canmore in 1071, 
and rebuilt or enlarged by James IV. in the sixteenth 
century. 

"Up there," he said, "where you see that old fire- 
place, Charles I. was born. Here was the royal 
kitchen, there the scullery, and here the wine cellar, 
where flows a fine spring of water. There is the sub- 
terranean passage running to the monastery. Queen 
Margaret walked up and down that glen." 

These ruins, which I have not time to describe, 
impressed me as much as any that I saw. Near this 
point is the old church, and with the new part, which 
was built sixty years ago, is a large and imposing 



278 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

building. Its appearance is cathedral-like; heavy 
stone walls, towers, lofty columns and fine stained 
glass windows, which show forth in beauty of form 
and colors many great things of church and state. 
Andrew Carnegie has recently placed large and mag- 
nificent stained-glass windows in a portion of this 
church. Hours may be passed in gazing, in pleasure, 
on the fine pictures in glass. Here are those pillars 
in this old church that, viewed from a certain stand- 
point, look as if they were standing small end down- 
ward, like a cone on its point, but seen from another 
point they are seen to taper upward. This is a 
mechanical illusion caused by V-shaped lines cut in 
the pillars. 

"King Robert the Bruce" is buried under the pul- 
pit in this church, and a number of kings and queens 
and lordly persons are buried here, and some fine 
statues in marble stand to perpetuate their fame and 
glory. I attended church here with Mr. Bennett, and 
after the services we walked through the pleasant 
grounds of the churchyard, and he pointed out the 
resting place of Mr. Charles Graham's parents. 

On Saturday evening the principal streets were 
lively and cheerful with a great crowd of happy, 
peaceful people, out on the many errands and pleas- 
ures of civilized life. There is the fine new municipal 
building, which cost ^25, 000. Its lofty clock is illu- 
minated, the gas being turned on and off by the clock 
machinery. Curfew is still rung here at 8 o'clock 
in this quaint and ancient city, and it is the only place 
I found where this old-time custom is observed. 



EDINBURGH AND DUNFERMLINE. 2JQ 

Here comes a glittering engine on wheels. Is it a 
steam fire engine ? No, it is a potato roaster or 
steamer, and the man halts here and there and sells- 
hot potatoes for, I think, a penny apiece. This place 
used to be celebrated generations ago for hand-loom, 
weaving. I presume hundreds of houses had looms im 
them at work, and there are still a few hand-looms 
in use, but when steam-driven looms came they waged 
a sure, cruel war against the hand-looms, and some of 
the incidents of patience, toil, and bravery and suffer- 
ing would do no discredit to the heroism of blood-red 
battle-fields. 

Now the factories begin to hum at 6 a. m. and run 
till 9 o'clock, at which time the employees go to break- 
fast. At 10 work starts again, and at 2 p. m. they stop 
for another hour and then work from 3 to 6 o'clock, 
making ten hours' work. Many fine walks and drives 
are found all around the city, some leading to the 
mountains, some to villages and some through groves 
to the Forth river. 

In Maygate street stands the old Abbot's house, 
with this curious motto cut above the door : 

" Sen • Vord ■ is ■ thrall 
And • thocht ■ is ■ fre; 
Keep • veill • thy ■ tonge, 
I • coinsell ■ the." 

While here I met William Fotheringham and Andrew 
Buchanan and their families, and found them to be 
friendly, frank and hearty people, glad to see one who 
knew their sons in Wilkes-Barre, a city in the distant 
and great "land of the free." (Their sons, P. H. Foth- 



280 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

•eringham and James Buchanan, I had met in charge 
■of a store in Wilkes-Barre, Pa.) They had places of 
business in different streets of the city and appeared 
to be industrious people moving surely toward success. 
It is comforting, cheering, refining and ennobling to 
be treated so well by strangers in a far-off land. I 
can almost see how the entertainment might change 
•ordinary strangers into angels. Let us not be unmind- 
ful of such matters. While here I met Mr. James 
Morgan, of Crossford ; but Crossford and the great 
bridge must receive attention in another chapter. 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

SCOTLAND: A WONDERFUL BRIDGE, ETC. 

SEA-WAVES CROUCH BEFORE RULERS OF KINGDOMS AND 

COMMERCE FROM EDINBURGH TO DUNFERMLINE 

SOUTH QUEEN'S FERRY PORT EDGAR NORTH 

QUEEN'S FERRY TOWERS OF GRANITE AND STEEL 

PLANTED IN WATER A HIGHWAY FOR THE PASSAGE 

OF FIERY CHARIOTS, BALANCED ON CIRCULAR TOWERS 

FORTY STORIES HIGH MACHINE SHOPS SUSPENDED IN 

AIR THIRTY-ONE MEN KILLED FOUR THOUSAND 

MEN RIVETING FORTY-TWO THOUSAND TONS OF STEEL 

HALCYON DAYS THE SUN KISSES THE WATER BY A 

RUINED CASTLE PLEASANT DRIVE THE LOVERS 

WALK QUIET, QUAINT, OLD CROSSFORD KIND 

HEARTS WALKING TOWARD THE LIGHTS OF DUN- 
FERMLINE. 

When crowned heads, and kingdoms, and com- 
manders, and commerce, wish a thoroughfare or a 
great work, it generally comes to pass that the sea 
crouches and bathes the feet of nations, rivers flow 
smoothly to be spanned and mountains stand still 
to be perforated and terraced, while granite, and 
iron, and steel, and marble, stand in the strength and 
beauty which were decreed to them " in the begin- 
ning." Few of our readers have seen so great a work 



282 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

of man as this mighty bridge which spans the Frith of 
Forth, an arm of the sea between Edinburgh and 
Dunfermline. 

One pleasant morning in September, as our train 
ran out from under old Edinburgh, into the fields 
toward the Frith of Forth, we saw the green meadows 
and the very green fields of potatoes and turnips. 
Here were fields of oats and beans still out ; here a 
score or two of wheat, oats and hay-stacks, neat, sym- 
metrical and well thatched, surrounded the barns, while 
cattle and sheep grazed in many fields. Here great 
flocks of crows and starlings are seen flying before 
and away from the train, and yonder are the Pentland 
Hills, looming up faintly through the mist as our good 
train rushes toward the north. I thought of Wyo- 
ming, Luzerne and Lehman, for I had seen similar 
days there. 

Now our train halts at South Queen's Ferry, and 
then runs on around one mile to Port Edgar, where 
a ferry steamer awaits to carry us to North Queen's 
Ferry, in Fifeshire, beyond the Forth. 

While on this boat we look away to the right and 
see the great stone piers on the land, and the steel 
colums from the water, looming up. In the distance 
the columns look to be about one hundred and fifty 
feet high, and say four feet in diameter, but when we 
go there, as I did in company with A. Bennett, Sr., 
and A. Bennett, Jr., and Mrs. A. Bennett, Jr., and Mr. 
James Morgan, I found the half had not been told. 

This point is but a few miles north of Edinburgh, 
on the railway lines to the cities in the north of Scot- 



SCOTLAND : A WONDERFUL BRIDGE, ETC. 285 

land; and travel and commerce had grown weary of 
halting the trains on the shore of the Forth, and em- 
barking on the steamers, and again taking the trains 
on the north side, so they resolved to build a bridge 
over this arm of the sea, and it was also necessary to 
get it high enough to allow the masts of ships to pass 
under, and at the same time do away with tunnelling 
the hills on the north side. 

David Harris, a foreman at the bridge, kindly 
showed us around, and I certainly saw things to won- 
der at. I tell you, these Scotchmen know how to turn 
iron and steel into vast ships and mighty bridges. 

I wish the reader to know that this is a great work r 
which will cost millions of money and interest millions 
of people. That the reader may form some idea of 
its magnitude, I will try to describe it. It is nearly a 
mile and a-half long, about one mile of it being over 
the water where the tides of the sea roll in and out. 
See the stone piers on each side, a dozen or more, 
about one hundred and fifty feet high. Now look at 
the great steel columns, fourteen of them, which lift 
their round, symmetrical forms into the air three hun- 
dred and sixty-five feet above high water-mark. This 
is, or it will be, for it is not nearly completed yet, the 
greatest cantilever bridge in the world. The vast col- 
umns mentioned above are twelve feet in diameter,, 
four of them near one shore and four of them near 
the other side, while six of them loom up on a rock 
in the middle of the Forth. These pillars are made 
of great plates riveted together like boilers, and are 
firmly braced inside. They stand on ponderous masses 



284 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

of Aberdeen granite, and while they are one hundred 
and twenty feet apart at the base, they taper in to thirty- 
three feet at the top. The braces which help hold the 
vast pillars in position are eight feet in diameter and 
cross each other in various directions. 

I walked with Mr. Harris up two hundred and 
twenty-one steps until I came to where the railway 
tracks will be laid one hundred and sixty-five feet 
above the water. "Come on," he said, but I told him 
I was high enough, for two hundred feet of iron and 
steel and ropes and chains and ladders and elevators 
and braces still loomed above us and caused at least 
some dizziness to look either up or down. These 
massive columns of steel, reaching out their arms for 
hundreds of feet over the water, impressed me with 
their greatness as being daring and almost awful. 
Think of it! These pillars have to stretch out their 
arms and uphold thousands of tons of iron and steel 
over one thousand, seven hundred and ten feet of water 
on one side and one thousand seven hundred and ten 
feet of water on the other side — more than two-thirds 
of a mile with but one resting-place. Those vast 
•columns of metal, towering up there in the middle of 
the Forth, reach down their great arms to uphold a 
mighty bridge one hundred and sixty-five feet above 
the sea-waves, while ponderous engines roll across 
drawing passengers and merchandise, and while clouds 
float above and ships and sea-gulls below. Why, I 
imagined these fourteen great columns to be castles 
or barracks, forty stories high, in which fourteen reg- 
iments of soldiers might lodge comfortably, and when 



SCOTLAND: A WONDERFUL BRIDGE, ETC. 285; 

you consider also the great tubular braces eight feet 
in diameter, then you might lodge easily a hundred 
thousand men there within safe walls of steel. 

" Mr. Harris, I understand you have an accident 
now and then?" "Yes; two men were killed a few 
days ago. Thirty-one men have been killed on the 
work since it began seven years ago. The distance is- 
so great that when even a spike, or a bolt, or a burr, 
or a small tool falls it is about certain to kill some one,, 
for we have six hundred and fifty men working on 
this one abutment. There are four thousand men in 
all employed on the bridge. The bridge is calculated 
to cost at least ten millions of dollars. It will weigh 
about forty-two thousand tons. The engineers are Sir 
John Fowler and B. Baker. The contractors are Tan- 
cred, Arrol & Co., London." As above mentioned, 
the bridge was commenced seven years ago and prob- 
ably three years must go by yet before it is finished. 
Consider how much one strong man can do in one 
day, but this great work would employ the strength 
of one man for at least thirty thousand years to build. 
The bridge will have two tracks. Mechanical man is 
so correct in his plans and designs that when this 
becomes a thoroughfare the engines and cars made in 
the most distant part of Britain may roll easily and 
safely over it on their way to the Highlands. 

Now, as the sun is setting at the close of a delight- 
ful day, we step into our wagonette and are driven 
along the Forth, by hedges, cuts, walls, groves, fields 
and mansions; up and down gentle declivities, and 
along smooth roads lined with shade trees. Now,, 



286 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

.across the waters, the bright, golden track of the sun 
is seen through a vista of trees, and beyond a green 
meadow, surrounded by water and black rocks, stand 
the remains of an old castle. Oh, the evening and 
the surroundings are pleasant! Halcyon days, those 
in Scotland, cannopied by clear skies and surrounded 
by humble, honest and kind hearts! The "good 
night" of the sun as he kisses water, meadow, hill and 
cloud, is indescribably sweet. The sun must reside in 
a rich and beautiful place or he could not give so 
much beauty and comfort to earth. 

Now, as we approach Crossford, we begin to meet 
ipairs of lovers from Crossford and Dunfermline, walk- 
ing out to enjoy the twilight hour. Yes, there are 
many romantic walks in this region; but, why men- 
tion it? For I sometimes think there are few who 
know what romance is. Yes, the life of most of us 
is awfully tame, for we cannot be really happy with- 
out loving with the whole heart — willing to do or die 
in the right, for the one beloved. 

It is dark as we enter the little, old-fashioned vil- 
lage of Crossford. Here we enter the hospitable cot- 
tage of Mr. and Mrs. James Morgan, and are kindly 
greeted by Mrs. Morgan and their hearty, rosy-cheeked 
daughters. Soon we are asked to sit by the table 
and partake of tea, scones, cheese, bread, butter, meat, 
etc. The food is clean, fresh, simple, cordially given 
and gratefully received, and partaken of heartily. The 
furniture, the fire, the faces, the china and all were ap- 
petizing. In this house my friend Charles Graham 
spent his days of childhood. He is a brother of Mrs. 



SCOTLAND : A WONDERFUL BRIDGE, ETC. 287 

Morgan. Mr. Morgan is a remarkably kind-hearted, 
friendly man. He told me of his fine, large garden 
full of fruits and vegetables, and of the old village. I 
somewhat regretted that I did not see it by daylight. 
We kindly bade each other good night, hoping to 
meet again in health and peace, and walked out of 
Crossford toward Dunfermline in company with A. 
Bennett, Sr., and his daughter, and Mr. Couper. Now 
the lights of Dunfermline appear in irregular lines 
ahead of us, and we enter the city not far from the old 
church and soon arrive at 18, Foundry street. 



■ «:=3|E=vfr 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

SCOTLAND: STERLING AND GLASGOW. 

FROM DUNFERMLINE TO STERLING MOUNTAINS LIKE 

LIONS, SHINING LIKE VELVET— STERLING GOING UP 

BY FAMOUS OBJECTS TO ROCKS MARBLE-DECKED AND 
CASTLE -CROWNED— CANNON ROAR BETWEEN THE 
CLOUDS AND THE WINDING FORTH— BRIDGE OF AL- 
LAN ABBEY CRAIG A PLAIN DECKED WITH ROCKS, 

RIVERS, SHEEP, ETC. A CEMETERY CLAD IN MARBLE, 

GRANITE, GLASS AND ROSES — OLD CHURCHES RELICS 

OF KINGS, QUEENS AND KNOX — SCOTLAND'S STAN- 
DARDS BEN-LOMOND— WATER LOOPED IN DOUBLE 

S'S IN MEADOWS FIVE HUNDRED FEET BELOW SOL- 
DERS HIGHLANDERS SINGING WITCH — BANNOCK- 

BURN — CURIOUS MONUMENT ON TO GLASGOW THIR- 
TY-SIX HUNDRED GROUSE WINAN'S DEER PARK 

SIX HUNDRED THOUSAND BUSY PEOPLE A CHIMNEY 

BREATHES FOUR HUNDRED AND THIRTY-FIVE FEET 

ABOVE THE PAVEMENTS A GREAT ROAD WALLED 

EIGHT STORIES HIGH — GREAT BUILDINGS — GLASGOW 

NAM ES — st. Enoch's roaring station. 

At 9:20 a. m., September 19th, 1887, I parted with 
my kind friends, the Bennetts and Mr. Morgan, at the 
station in Dunfermline and took the train for Sterling. 
The railway runs through a picturesque country abound- 



SCOTLAND : STERLING AND GLASGOW. 289 

ing with farms, hedges, groves, hills, vales, villages, 
towns, with mountain peaks in the distance. The moun- 
tains, still and solemn, make me think of lions crouch- 
ing one beyond another. Yonder stand the Lochiel 
Hills, fine, high, rounding, pyramidical, and in the sun- 
shine look as if they were robed in blue and brown 
velvet. 

We pass through East Grange, Bogside, Kincar- 
dine and Kennet, Clark-Manning, Alloa Junction and 
Cambus. Here is a bold, rocky mountain where the 
dark rocks rise almost perpendicularly five hundred 
feet. Now our train runs along near the Forth and 
on our right is Abbey Craig, upon which stands a 
massive and lofty monument to Wallace, one of the 
most successful warriors Scotland ever produced. 

Sterling is one of the oldest and most famous places 
in Scotland. In my note-book I find these words : 
" Wonderful Sterling ! The most beautiful scenery I 
ever saw ! " It is a pleasant day in September. I 
alight from the train in a spacious station ; walk up a 
flight of steps and cross a bridge over the railway 
tracks, and walked out into the town and began to 
ascend the street, for I saw from the railway that Ster- 
ling Castle was on a high, bold rock. 

I passed up by all kinds of shops and stores ; up 
by banks, residences, public buildings, churches, ivy- 
grown ruins, cemeteries and monuments, and pass up 
and under great walls and archways into the. courtyard 
of the old castle. I pass along by the row of black 
cannon, where balls are piled in pyramids and stand 

(19) 



29O IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

upon the wall. Above are the heavens, below are the 
city, the plain, the winding Forth, farms, flocks and 
hamlets. 

Yonder is Bridge of Allan, a most beautiful and 
healthful watering place, nestling in woods along the 
base of a mountain. 

Yonder is the romantic Abbey Craig, on which 
stands the fine Wallace monument. " King Robert 
the Bruce" also has a fine monument there. Let the 
reader imagine a wide, winding valley, on nearly every 
side surrounded by mountains, and through this valley 
winds a river, the Forth, and here and there rise rocks 
from the plain. These rocks are very extensive, and 
are covered with earth and vegetation on all sides ex- 
cept one. Sterling is built chiefly on one of these 
declivities or wedges, and the castle occupies the high 
and rocky part, and its walls almost overhang the 
valley. 

I cannot take time to describe this old castle, and 
the handsome cemetery near and only a little below 
it, where many rocks, trees, monuments, statues and 
flowers are seen, and there are the old East and West 
Churches and Guild Hall, buildings which have been 
famous and gray for hundreds of years; where show- 
cases, chests and safes contain precious things once 
belonging to kings, queens, lords, bishops, soldiers, 
poets, reformers, etc. I was shown the chair where 
kings and queens were crowned; the bible, and pulpit 
where Knox preached King James' coronation sermon. 
I was also shown the old standard yard-stick of Scot- 



SCOTLAND: STERLING AND GLASGOW. 20,1 

land, forty-five inches long, also old standard weights 
and measures. 

Yes, here on the top of this rocky eminence, 
nearly five hundred feet above the plain, are the castle, 
the cemetery, the churches, and other works of past 
centuries; while to the northwest may be seen scores 
of peaks of mountains, away in the highlands, stand- 
ing still and silent like an emblem of eternity. That 
blue, gloomy peak is Ben-Lomond, three thousand one 
hundred and ninety-two feet high, and that is Ben- 
Ledi, two thousand eight hundred and seventy-five feet 
high. Now look down to the valley and follow the 
"windings of the Forth." No, it is so crooked, so 
like a number of double S's, that I can not trace its 
course without help. See where it gleams among 
fields, groves, villages, and near Abbey Craig, and old 
Cambuskenneth Abbey, and away to smoky Alloa. 

A young man said : " By carriage road to Alloa is 
seven miles, but if you go by water it is twenty-two 
miles," so the reader may know that the Forth is 
indeed winding — crooked as a truant's pathway to 
school. I understand the tide rolls up about to Ster- 
ling. Sterling is nearly thirty-six miles from Edin- 
burgh, but, I was told, in clear weather the human 
eye could see portions of Edinburgh from here. There 
is "Lady Rock" in the cemetery, which commands so 
fine a view. A lady sits there now gazing around. 

Here is the "Back Walk," a romantic pathway 
leading down along the rocks under the castle walls 
through trees and flowers to the valley, where shocks 



292 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

of grain, and sheep and cattle and houses and stacks 
dot the plain. 

Here are soldiers, English and Scottish, clad in 
many colors and various uniforms, some drilling, some 
wheeling blankets, etc., up through passages cut or 
built in solid rock. The walls and moat are being 
improved. 

Now we hear the bagpipes. Down there on the 
esplanade an old woman is singing a quaint and curious 
old song in very peculiar tone and with many repeti- 
tions. She is begging, but the soldiers do not seem 
to relish her presence and soon she was seen to depart. 
She was weird and old, but she danced and laughed in 
a peculiar manner. How strange ! But Sterling Cas- 
tle would not have been complete without the cannon, 
the bagpipes, the red coats, the bonneted and plaided 
Highlanders, the moat, the gateway, the walls, the 
rocks and the old woman with her song of past gen- 
erations. Yes, certain surroundings always demand 
and secure other certain concomitants. 

Now we gaze down upon the great and decisive 
battle-fields of Bannockburn and Sterling. It is nearly 
1 o'clock, so I take a last look around on the historic 
and enchanting scene and go down through a little 
valley between the castle and the cemetery, where, 
among trees and rocks and shrubbery, stands a pyra- 
mid of cut stone about thirty feet high, called "The 
Rock of Ages." I do not remember the name of the 
man who had it erected to the honor of the old Cov- 
enanters. It is nearly covered with carvings of Bibles, 



SCOTLAND: STERLING AND GLASGOW. 293 

crowns, crosses and symbols of science and art. It is 
a real monument to Christianity. At 1:15 p. m. I took 
the train for Glasgow. 

Our good express train thunders and screeches 
along through cuts and fields, and over streams and 
under viaducts of rock. We pass Bannockburn, Lar- 
bert, Green Hill, Cumberland, Glenboig, Cartcosh, 
Caenkirk and Steps Road. I met a pleasant old gen- 
tleman who had come down via Killiecrankie from the 
Highlands, and when he knew of my being from 
America, he spoke of Winans' great deer park, where 
so many deer are kept and hunted among the moun- 
tains. He said on one gentleman's estate eighteen 
hundred brace of grouse had been killed during the 
season. Now our train runs into the old, wooden 
station in Glasgow. It is ancient, extensive, busy and 
rough-looking. I think it is the only wooden struc- 
ture of the kind I have seen while abroad. It is prob- 
ably the first station built here, and most likely it must 
soon give way to one more permanent. 

Glasgow is a powerful and busy city of about six 
hundred thousand inhabitants. It stands on both 
sides of the Clyde, and fine bridges span the river. 
I found it crowded and much like New York. The 
buildings are massive, solid and granite, stamped with 
the dust and smoke of stern, unromantic business. 
Oh, see the lofty chimneys breathing their black 
breath into the clouds! How high is that chimney, 
please? "Four hundred and thirty -five feet.'* Is it 
possible! Four hundred and thirty-five feet, why that 



294 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

is high as a mountain, and it requires an effort to look 
to the top of it. 

Here comes a tram-car, and I run to the top of it 
and go out the Great Western Road, lined with solid 
buildings of stone from four to eight stories high. 
Now we pass some fine churches with tall and slender 
spires of cut stone. Now we cross the Kelvin river 
and see many fine residences lining the broad thor- 
oughfare. 

Yonder is Glasgow University, an extensive build- 
ing, with six acres of floors. A new spire is being 
built upon its lofty tower which pierces the heavens 
two hundred and eighty feet above the pavement. 
Yonder, on the hill, is the asylum, a neat, solid and 
large building. Yonder they are preparing buildings 
for the exhibition of 1888. 

Passing along the streets of Glasgow, I saw so 
many familiar names that I wrote down a few as fol- 
lows: Weir, McCulloch, Graham, MacFarlane, 
Hutchison, Dick, Kerr, French, Grant, Gilchrist, 
Cameron, Ferguson, Easton, Stuart, Taggart, Ma- 
chell, Campbell, Black, Hillard, Wilson, Buchannan, 
Allen, etc. 

Glasgow claims to be next in importance to Lon- 
don in the British Isles, in business and population. I 
went to St. Enoch's great stone station, where pon- 
derous trains of merchandise and passengers were 
coming and going, while the tumultuous roar of nations 
rolls up on every hand. Ambition, competition, pride 
and poverty are mighty levers to keep men and nations 



SCOTLAND: STERLING AND GLASGOW. 295 

from stagnation. Having some time to wait here, I 
found a somewhat quiet corner and wrote a letter to 
the Telephone. Now the train is nearly ready to start 
for Greenock. Twenty-four miles for nine pence !: 
There is the work of competition. In an hour I am 
in old Greenock, in company with A. Swan, Jr. 



"^Sg^fe^-'' 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

SCOTLAND: GREENOCK AND PAISLEY. 

•GREENOCK SHIPS AND SUGAR THE CLYDE A MORNING 

WALK MOUNTAIN PEAKS FAIRY LANDS LOOKING 

DOWN ON GREENOCK SCENE UNSURPASSED AJAX 

THE LARGEST SHIP THE LYLE ROAD — ESPLANADE 

HIGHLAND MARY'S GRAVE WATT'S SCIENTIFIC LIB- 
RARY—TELEGRAPHY IN I753 THE SHIP YARDS 

PAISLEY SHAWLS AND THREAD SCHOOL CHILDREN 

TANNAHILL WILSON — KILBARCHAN — MOVING TO- 
WARD DUMFRIES. 

Greenock is on the Clyde, in Scotland, about 
twenty-two miles west from Glasgow. Its population 
is about eighty thousand, and it is noted for ship 
building and sugar refining. The Clyde is an arm of 
the sea which winds among the mountains, making 
many bays, lakes, or lagoons, as they are variously 
called, or, rather, lochs here. The mountains are 
abrupt, rugged and irregular, and the sea winds in 
and around their base, where here and there a village 
or town claims a foothold between the waters and the 
hills, all of which gives a picturesque and romantic 
aspect. 

As above mentioned, Greenock is located on the 
Clyde, where there is a comparatively level place, but 



SCOTLAND : GREENOCK AND PAISLEY. 297 

the city has stretched out upon and up the surround- 
ing hillsides. 

Having a letter from Superintendent Charles Gra- 
ham, of Scranton, to Mr. Andrew Swan, I called upon 
the Swans and remained with them all night, and on 
the following morning Mr. A. Swan, Jr., went with me 
for a walk. We ascended a high hill near the city, 
where we could look down upon Greenock and the 
harbor, the winding Clyde and the great maze of 
mountain peaks beyond, which is known as the " Duke 
of Argyle's Bowling Green." 

It is early in the morning. The sun and atmos- 
phere and city are clear. The waters and towns are 
bright, and we have one of the finest scenes around, 
above and below unfolded to our view. I have never, 
I think, seen anything quite so picturesque. 

Among those misty and clustered peaks in the 
distance you might imagine you saw Youth-land, 
Hope-land, Fairy-land. Dream-land, Love-land and 
lakes, cities and gardens, guarded by tall, everlasting, 
rock-founded hills. 

We walked up the Lyle road to the top of the 
Craig, and now stand at the foot of the flag-staff on 
the rock, four hundred and ten feet above sea-level. 
The sun is still clear to us ; but see ! a cloud already 
hangs over Greenock — a cloud which seems to rest 
on many pillars of black smoke which go up from the 
tall chimneys. The track of the sun on the Clyde 
looks like a broad pathway of copper. At our feet 
on the Clyde, below Greenock, lies Gourock, a pleas- 
ant and busy little town which will be a suburb of 



298 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

Greenock when the railway is completed between the 
two points. The railway will run nearly all the way 
under the hills, for as we came up we saw the shafts, 
at the foot of which the thoroughfare is being made. 

Now we are joined by Capt. Wm. Orr, an athletic 
little man of four score years, who comes up here for 
a walk each morning. His mind is still clear and 
active. He had been a sailor and followed the seas 
for many years. He said, "This scene is unsurpassed 
in the world. When I was a boy Greenock had about 
twenty thousand population, and nearly all of the peo- 
ple were employed on the sea or in seafaring business." 

Ships, steamers and boats of nearly all kinds and 
sizes are coming and going. Here come a number of 
sidewheel steamers from various points down the 
Clyde, from Ardrassan, Stranraer, Larne, etc., bringing 
tourists and business people up to Greenock, Port 
Glasgow and Glasgow. 

See that dark monster with six tall masts near the 
middle of the Clyde, beyond "Ajax," the guard-ship! 
That is the Great Eastern, the largest vessel on all the 
seas; six hundred and eighty feet long. Think of it! 
a vessel more than one-eighth of a mile long guided 
by men on the boundless and chainless sea! But she 
is too large to be profitable, and so she is lying here 
on exhibition. 

We passed on around and down the fine Lyle road. 
Oh, what a drive! from the waves of the sea and the 
busy city streets up over the rocks almost to the 
clouds, by an easy grade! Thank you, Mr. Lyle! I 
say Mr., for I do not remember whether he is a cap- 



SCOTLAND : GREENOCK AND PAISLEY. 299 

tain, a general, a knight, or a lord, but I would knight 
him for making so grand a highway, which is used 
chiefly for pleasure and exercise. 

Now we are on the broad esplanade, where walls 
of cut-stone for two or three miles keep the sea-waves 
in place, while business and travel move to and fro 
before fine residences. Now we come to the docks, 
and steamers land for a short time, and crowds disem- 
bark. Now we are nearer to the Great Eastern, and 
her size is still more impressive as we compare her 
with other vessels. 

See the "Ajax," the grim war-ship, anchored out 
there! she is a floating fortress, and arsenal, and bar- 
racks, and drilling-room, for the sons of Great Britain. 
She carries two immense guns, and many smaller 
ones. Her full force is four hundred and fifty men, 
learning to serve their country on ocean-waves in vari- 
ous parts of the world. Yes, they go down to the sea 
in ships and do important business on great waters. I 
was about to say that war was exacting, stern and pit- 
iless, but so is business, so is life, yes, so is even love, 
for if we do not assimilate, become on friendly, fric- 
tionless terms with our environments we are ground to 
powder fine enough for cosmetics, and the roar of the 
mills, run by the gods, drowns alike both curses and 
groans. Loving summer and joyous autumn will give 
us no roses and fruits if we do not sow and plant. 

Here in a busy part of the city is the old "West 
Kirk." We went into the church-yard and saw many 
quaint and curious tombs and monuments standing 
near the gray and ivy-clad church, and surrounded by 



300 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

trees and flowers. Early as it was, the old sexton 
showed us "Highland Mary's" grave. You know 
Mary Campbell was Robert Burns' first love, but she 
died, and he wrote most touching and beautiful verses 
about " Mary in Heaven," etc. I took some elm 
leaves that waved against her neat monument, but the 
sexton, his name was John Rowan, gave me a flower 
from her grave and said, " I wish all were as careful as 
you." I asked, "Do many visitors come?" He re- 
plied, " Yes, and they are mostly Americans." Of 
course, I put some silver in his hand. After breakfast 
I walked down with A. Swan, Sr., and we stopped at 
a fine building labeled, "Watt's Scientific Library." I 
was introduced to the librarian, Allen Park Paton, a 
pleasant, intelligent man. They have there thirty 
thousand volumes. We saw a fine sitting statue of 
James Watt by Sir Francis Chantrey. Watt was a 
native of Greenock, and is considered the perfecter of 
the steam engine. Here is also a memorial of Charles 
Morrison, who knew something of electric telegraphy 
in 1753. 

The genuine autographs of Byron, Burns, Scott, 
Dickens, Jennie Lind, and many famous writers of 
England, Ireland and Scotland were seen at this lib- 
rary and they form an interesting study. 

Mr. Swan said there were thousands of tons of 
sugar refined here. I did not have time to visit the 
great ship-yards that almost line the Clyde from here 
to Glasgow, and which make the Clyde so famous, 
wherever ships sail. They build ships of iron, steel 
and good wood; great ships to carry soldiers and 



SCOTLAND : GREENOCK AND PAISLEY. 3OI 

cannon, ladies and gentlemen, herds, oil, fuel, lumber,, 
and all kinds of merchandise over sunny seas and 
icy seas. 

Mr. Swan is an active, intelligent man who, when 
a boy, had traveled quite extensively in the United 
States, and he retains a vivid recollection of many 
of our busy and beautiful places in America. Bidding 
my kind friends good-bye, I took the train for Paisley. 

I remained here but a short time and found it a 
busy and dusty city of say sixty thousand inhabitants.. 
There were some large and substantial buildings, both 
public and private. Here are great shawl and thread 
factories, and some one said there were thousands of 
women employed in the works here. It is noon and 
the streets are full of little boys and girls with books, 
slates, school-bags, etc., talking, laughing, "tagging" 
and disputing, same as in America. In the dress and 
surroundings of one little boy I could see the care 
and labor of a kind, thoughtful, poverty-menaced 
mother, whose loving spirit encircled her child, there 
in the street, like a guardian angel. He was a pale,, 
thoughtful child with a cheap muffler about his throat,, 
and his clean clothes were neatly patched. I presume, 
if we could see clearly we should discern more spirits 
than bodies in this world. 

Paisley is the birth-place of the poet Tannahill 
and of the ornithologist Wilson. A gentleman said :. 
"Two miles over that way is Kilbarchan, one of the 
most primitive places in Scotland. The houses are 
still thatched with straw there, and hand-loom weaving 



302 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

is still in vogue, and there is where a celebrated piper 
was born, mentioned by Burns." Paisley has a fine 
museum. 

Now I am at Glasgow again, waiting for a train to 
Dumfries. In my last letter I mentioned the stone 
bridges over the Clyde at Glasgow, but I did not men- 
tion the handsome suspension bridge which also spans 
the river here. At St. Enoch's station I purchase a 
ticket for Dumfries for six shillings and ten pence, 
which shows the distance to be eighty-two miles. At 
2:30 p. m. our train runs out of Glasgow toward the 
south of Scotland. 



» >=3 f fc=vs ~ 



CHAPTER XXX. 



SCOTLAND: DUMFRIES. 



BY TRAIN FROM GLASGOW TO DUMFRIES— THINGS SEEN— 
DUMFRIES— HISTORY— LOCATION— CHURCHES— WALK 

WITH MR. SHARP FAMOUS NAMES — ROBERT BURNS J 

HIS DWELLING, HIS ALE HOUSE, HIS STATUE, HIS 
CHURCH, HIS ARM-CHAIR, HIS MAUSOLEUM, HIS PO- 
ETRY, HIS ADMIRERS CLYDESDALE HORSES — OLD 

CHURCHES— BRIDGE SIX HUNDRED YEARS OLD— FINE 
RAILWAY STATION— VIADUCT OVER RAILWAYS, ETC. 

At 2:30 p. m. I left Glasgow for Dumfries, which 
is in the lowlands of Scotland, not many miles north 
of Carlisle, England. We crossed the Clyde and ran 
by great stone buildings and tall chimneys and now 
we are out in the country, rushing through fields and 
villages, through cuts in rock and cuts in sand, over 
creeks and viaducts, through meadows and groves, 
and run among the hills. 

We stop but seldom, and rush with such speed as 
scarcely allows us to read the names of the stations. 
At 2:45 we pass a large stone building ; girls, girded 
and bare-headed, are returning from dinner to their 
work. The factory hands have dinner between 2 and 
3 p- m. and breakfast between 9 and 10 a. m., as I 
have already mentioned. 



304 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

Here is Kilmarnock, a large town by a big creek ; 
fine cemetery, nice farm country around. Boys from 
school enter my compartment. They are good-look- 
ing and well-dressed, but full of mischief, noise and 
romp. Here is Mauchline, not a large town, only 
middling farming country, full of groves and trees; 
run over a high bridge and look down into a deep 
glen full of rocks and trees. One high, square, per- 
pendicular rock covered with trees, in the centre of 
the dark ravine, looks like a hanging garden. 

Now, 3 o'clock ; must do something, so I will 
count what I see for an hour. We passed eighty-nine 
fields of oats, fourteen pieces of woodland, seventy 
fields containing cows and other cattle, nineteen fields 
containing sheep, run under thirty-one viaducts and 
over eight bridges, through one tunnel and by five 
towns, passed six stations, run through eighteen sand 
cuts and four rock cuts. 

Now we see high lands and low, green meadows. 
Now we sweep down a little valley along a small, blue 
river with smooth, green banks. Yonder are fine, 
green woods, and, away above, see those high and 
beautiful mountains, clad in brown and silver, motion- 
less, silent, solemn, smooth yet irregular, resembling 
the backs of great camels and elephants. 

We halt at Thornhill and nine big, good-natured 
farmers enter the compartment, and, of course, I am 
not alone ; in fact, I hardly have elbow room to write. 
I nearly always managed to get a seat by the glass 
door or window so I could easily look out upon the 
country through which the trains ran. I asked, " Has 



SCOTLAND I DUMFRIES. 305 

there been a fair here?" and was answered: "No; it 
is show day." " What kind of a show ? " I asked, and 
was told " A cattle show." Now our good train runs 
rapidly, and soon we halt in the old town of Dumfries. 

Having letters to George Sharp and Charles Len- 
non, friends of Charles Graham, of Scranton, Pa., I 
called on Mr. Sharp at his office, near the fine, large 
station, where he is engaged as Superintendent of 
Locomotives on the Glasgow and South Western Rail- 
way. Mr. Sharp is a middle-aged man, of excellent 
habits, and is active in body and mind. He resides in 
a pleasant cottage on an eminence near and overlook- 
ing the railway, the viaduct, the station, and a consid- 
erable portion of the town. He has a pleasant family 
of wife, daughter and sons. His daughter, Miss 
Marion Elizabeth, rendered good, cheering music for 
us on the piano, and also some sweet old Scotch airs 
on the harmonium. The courteous treatment and 
careful hospitality received at the hands of this kind 
family was " like good news from a far country." 

Dumfries and Maxwelltown, which closely adjoin, 
contain about twenty-three thousand inhabitants. It 
is also an ancient place, and is noted in history as the 
scene of some desperate struggles between the Eng- 
lish and Scots. It is also noted as the seat of some 
dark tragedies, and brave deeds of religious reformers. 
It is pleasantly located on the river Nith. It contains 
a few fine old churches and a number of educational 
and benevolent institutions. 

I took a walk with Mr. Sharp and he pointed out 
near his own residence, on a pleasant eminence, the 

(20) 



306 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

house where resides the widow Aitken, a sister of the 
famous writer, Thomas Carlyle. 

Sir James Anderson, of telegraph fame, did live 
here and has a sister here still. Miss Brown, the great- 
grand-daughter of Robert Burns, lives here. 

Robert Burns, the famous poet, passed his last 
years in this town, and his remains lie in a mausoleum 
in St. Michael's church cemetery. 

The station on the Glasgow and South-Western 
Railway here is a good, large and convenient stone 
station. It is double, having ticket-offices, waiting- 
rooms, cloak-rooms, lunch-rooms, etc., on each side 
of the tracks, and overhead are bridges for passengers 
to pass from one side to the other above the tracks 
and trains. Just below the station there is a broad, 
lengthy and handsome cut-stone viaduct, which carries 
the old turnpike on a level over all the tracks. In 
Higdi street we see Burns' statue. It is a fine one and 
on the pedestal we see inscribed favorite lines from his 
best poems. 

Now we come to the Sands, an open or public 
place by the river Nith, where horse fairs and shows 
are held. There was a fair to be held there the next 
week, and already the merry-go-rounds in the form of 
beasts, birds and fishes, accompanied by steam-power 
and music and other features of out-door show life, 
had been set up and the place was gay and noisy as a 
carnival. Near this point is the old stone bridge over 
the Nith, which has stood, they say, about six hun- 
dred years. It is used now only by foot passengers. 

We went and saw the modest little two-story house 



SCOTLAND : DUMFRIES. 307 

where the poet Burns lived and died, having acquired 
a name which now encircles the globe as one of na- 
ture's own true poets. He died in his thirty-seventh 
year, comparatively a young man. His wife, Jean 
Burns, outlived him thirty-eight years and died in the 
same house in 1834. We also visited the public house 
which he frequented, perhaps too much, and were 
shown the old arm chair in which he sat and sipped 
and smoked. The chair is locked in a small closet in 
the corner of the room, but I was permitted to sit in 
it. We were also shown his punch bowl, snuff box, 
etc. These relics of Burns are visited by hundreds 
of people every year. 

The respect paid to the memory of Burns and 
things pertaining to him here is remarkable and almost 
amounts to worship. He is looked upon as one of 
Nature's poets, priests and kings, and Nature is almost, 
if not quite, worshiped through him by many. He 
seems ever to have stood for the freedom of speech 
and for the needy and oppressed. We also went into 
St. Michael's churchyard and entered, with the sexton, 
Burns' mausoleum and stood over his dust and saw 
the fine marble statue where the muse throws over 
him a mantle as he pauses by his plow. His sons and 
wife also are interred here. I handed the sexton a 
shilling, and the six-pence he gave me in change I 
still keep as a relic of Burns' burial-place. We en- 
tered the fine old church and were shown where Burns 
sat when at church. In the cemetery we were shown 
the tomb of the martyrs who lost their lives for relig- 
ious liberty. 



308 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

In one portion we were shown where four hundred 
and twenty victims of Asiatic cholera were buried, 
who died in 1832, from the 15th of September to the 
27th of November. Forty-four died in one day. 
This was when the town was yet quite small. In our 
walk we passed through Kennedy & Co.'s green- 
houses and flower gardens, and saw many varieties of 
lovely flowers arranged in beautiful and pleasing 
forms. I met Mr. Charles Lennon, who was also in 
the employ of the railway company. Here, as well as 
at Glasgow and Greenock, I noticed that the draft 
horses were large, well-formed and powerful, not so 
heavy as the Liverpool horses, yet I was told they 
were more hardy and solid, which, however, is a ques- 
tion in my mind. These are the Clydesdale horses, 
which have a great reputation in Scotland, as they also 
have in Canada and the United States, where many of 
them are taken. 

We entered St. Michael's church, and found it a 
spacious, convenient and handsome edifice, with win- 
dows beautiful with pictures in stained glass. This 
church was built in 1 178, by "William the Lion," and 
rebuilt in 1746. On a large tablet we saw the names 
of all the ministers from 1562 to the present. Rev. 
Mr. Paton is pastor now. In the churchyard already 
mentioned are hundreds of handsome and interesting 
monuments, ancient and modern. I noticed three fine 
church edifices, St. Mary's, St. Michael's, and Grey- 
friars, belonging to the church of Scotland, also a fine 
Catholic church, with schools and benevolent institu- 
tions connected. 



SCOTLAND : DUMFRIES. 309 

Dumfries I found to be a pleasant and interesting 
place, finely located near a beautiful little river spanned 
by a very ancient, gray-stone bridge, with ranges of 
picturesque mountains in the background. The people 
were kind, industrious, orderly and neighborly, and 
fairly enterprising. 



CHAPTER XXXI. 

m 
FROM SCOTLAND TO IRELAND. 

LEAVING DUMFRIES — RIDING OVER MOUNTAINS, AMONG 

LAKES AND MEADOWS MOUNTAINS DECKED WITH 

PURPLE HEATHER, WHITE GRANITE AND SHEEP OLD 

STRANRAER HOME-LIKE HOTEL LEAVING STRAN- 
RAER LOCH RYAN SHIPS, SEA-BIRDS AND GREEN 

HILLS LOCOMOTIVES RUSH DOWN TO THE SHIPS 

THE IRISH SEA "LIKE A LAKE" SHIPS LIKE SPIRITS 

ON ETERNITY'S OCEAN MRS. SCOTT SIDDONS AT 

LARNE, IRELAND. 

I had intended while in Scotland to visit Dundee, 
Balmoral and Aberdeen, but time did not admit of 
these doubtless pleasant visits and I left Dumfries at 
2:48 p. m., enroute for Ireland via Stranraer. I have 
a clear recollection of the trip, but I can perhaps do 
no better at this time than to copy from my note-book 
what I wrote as the train rushed through a wild, 
romantic country. 

We ran out of Dumfries, along the river, through 
a rock cut, then over a high viaduct, and look down 
upon a fine cottage in a green vale full of gardens of 
flowers and vegetables and small lakes in which float 
white ducks ; through another deep rock-cut and pass 
up a ravine with green mountains on each side — fine 



FROM SCOTLAND TO IRELAND. 3 I I 

scenery — flocks of white sea-birds and crows in 
plowed field ; on the other side a bold, bare mountain. 
Pass Killywhan, a rural place. Large flock of sheep 
and large drove of cattle. Some of the cattle were 
yellow and wild-looking, with long, sharp horns. 
Fields black with crows and white with sea-gulls.. 
Now on highlands ; mountains all around ; men build- 
ing bridge over creek ; marshy ; turnips ; breckons 
are brown; stonewalls. Here is Dalbeattie, quite a 
town ; scenery like Dallas and Jackson, Pa. Going on 
through rugged scenery we came to Castle Douglas, 
an interestingand picturesque old town on high ground. 
The hills and farms and stonewalls in the neighbor- 
hood make me think of Jackson township in Pennsyl- 
vania. By the way, this is where our friend Monighan 
came from, the superintendent of the Conyngham 
farms at Trucksville. 

Going on we see a tall monument on a distant hill, 
but did not learn whose it is. Now we run for 
miles through a green valley among highlands, where 
many lakes are chained amid meadows, and arrive at 
Parton. Proceeding we find ourselves on brown, rough 
highlands; lake, clear river, flocks of sheep; bald 
mountains dotted with gray granite, brown breckon 
(brakes) and white sheep. Here is lake Scallan, bar- 
ren mountains all around — few houses to be seen in 
this region. Brown, boggy meadow runs to and over 
high smooth hill, while granite mountains stand on 
the other hand. What scenery! barren for miles and 
miles, like traveling among Penobscot peaks. Now 
the mountains are smooth, beautiful and clad in pur- 



312 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

pie heather. We see hundreds of sheep on the high 
mountain sides, looking like flakes of snow and they 
are also in the vale by the creek and they scamper 
away as the train rushes by. There broad waters 
gleam on the left and we see boats and ships ; this is 
Wigton bay. We pass Creeton and run through a 
low, green country and come to Newton Stewart which 
is quite a town. We run on through meadows, turnip 
fields, moorlands and where many cords of peat are 
piled up. 

Here is Kirkgowan, a village; more stonewalls, 
sheep, marshes, stacks of peat and low stone houses 
thatched, cattle and sheep. Man and boy in cart drawn 
by one horse. Here come two ladies dressed in black 
apparently been at a funeral. Here is Glen Luce, a 
quaint old town, chimneys smoking where suppers 
are being prepared, for it is 5:20 p. m. ; Bay of Luce is 
in view. Pleasant evening, atmosphere like Indian 
summer in America. Now we reach Dunragit, a vil- 
lage, where we see many thatched stacks. I was told 
this is a great dairy district and there is a creamery 
here where butter is made on the "Danish System." 
Here is Castle Kennedy, where I see for the first time 
the "cotton aster," a vine by the wall of the station, 
having the deepest green leaves and the richest red 
berries in profusion. It is very rich and beautiful in 
appearance. 

Going on, we arrive at 5.50 p. m. in ancient Stran- 
rear, on Loch Ryan, where a line of sidewheel steam- 
ers run across the Irish Sea to Larne in the north of 
Ireland. A number of 'buses stood at the station and 



FROM SCOTLAND TO IRELAND. 313 

I took the one going to Meikle's hotel. We passed 
along narrow and winding streets and saw at least one 
house thatched with straw. Arriving at the hotel which 
was a homelike, unpretending house, I was ushered 
into a clean, airy hallway where a number of neatly 
attired young women stood waiting or attending to 
various duties. They wore white lace caps with a 
black bow at the side. One said, "Come this way," 
and I passed into a pleasant, carpeted room where sat 
tables filled with eatables, side-boards, writing-desks, 
chairs and sofas. Another said, "Your number will 
be twelve, will you see your room?" I went up to a 
neat, little room next to the roof, and an apology was 
offered me that a party of noted people had taken 
nearly all their rooms and claimed their services. 
"Your bill will be two shillings six-pence for your 
room, two shillings for tea, two shillings for breakfast 
and six-pence each way for the 'bus. Breakfast at 
half-past six, you will be called at six. " 

The place seemed much like a home reception or 
donation party. I went down to the eating and wait- 
ing room and helped myself to cold meat, tongue, tea, 
toast, bread, scones, preserved strawberries, etc. After 
eating heartily I finished a letter to the Telephone and 
carried it to the post-office by a winding street which 
was wide at some places and narrow at others. The 
streets were dimly lighted and somewhat noisy with 
romping youths and I soon returned to the hotel. I 
retired at 9:45 and rested well. 

September 22d, up at 6 a. m.; 6:25, waiting for 
breakfast — 6:50 left Meikle's Hotel and now, 7 a. m., 



314 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

am on board a fine sidewheel steamer named Princess 
Beatrice. Near us at a pier is another steamer, the 
Princess Louisa, length two hundred and forty-five 
feet. Loch Ryan, a tidal lake, is ten miles long and 
is as "smooth as glass." The morning is cloudy. 
Yonder is Stranraer with a few spires and towers and 
a few high chimneys — about twenty boats and ships 
are lying idly; sea-birds quietly moving on water and 
in the air. 

People come on board, men, women and children. 
The train, a half hour late, comes rushing right out 
on to the pier and soon there is a busy scene; more 
people, all ages, sexes and classes come on board. 
See the strange shaped trunks and boxes; made of tin, 
wood, willow, leather and canvas, black, white, brown, 
etc. The bell rings, the engine throbs, the wheels 
revolve and the air begins to freshen on deck. Our 
boat strikes out for the open sea and runs between 
long, high hills that are blue with the mist and smoke. 
On the hill yonder stands the monument to Sir 
Andrew Agnew; here to the right are the pleasant 
estates of Sir William Wallace. 

Now, 10 a. m., the hills of Ireland are plainly seen 
through the haze and I stand by the great red funnel 
to keep warm, for our speed gives a smart breeze; but 
the sea is smooth as a lake in calm weather. A few 
ships are in sight, moving silently like spirits on 
eternity's ocean. On the trip I had noticed a bright, 
erect, elastic, red-cheeked, black-eyed woman in a 
plaid wool overdress, walking on deck, accompanied 



FROM SCOTLAND TO IRELAND. 315 

by a fair-complexioned young lady of a Swedish 
type of beauty. A gentleman said, " That is Mrs. 
Scott Siddons, the actress, and her maid." Indeed! 
She was the only person that fixed my attention on 
the voyage, and she no doubt has earned the fame 
she enjoys. She carried her satchel quite self- 
reliantly. 

Now I have reached old Larne and set my feet on 
Ireland's soil for the first time. 



''rPZSgfySJ^' 



CHAPTER XXXII. 

IN IRELAND 

interesting country velvet meadows clear 

lakes picturesque mountains leaving larne 

enroute to giant's causeway port rush 

dr. adam clarke's monument — the jaunting 

car the electric car — the mowing machine 

on a cliff dunluce castle strange images 

and shapes ocean waves moaning in caves 

dined near the great freak of nature. 

Many readers have waited with patience to read 
what the writer thinks and says of Ireland, one of the 
most interesting portions of our world, politically and 
socially. My friends must remember that three days 
is far too short a time for an ordinary man to come to 
correct conclusions in regard to the financial, social, 
climatic and religious status of so large an island as 
Ireland, which covers an area of thirty-two thousand 
five hundred and twenty-one square miles, and con- 
tains five millions of people. Seventy-four per cent, of 
her territory is productive. 

Great questions of law and religion, right and 
wrong, and government have agitated Ireland and 
claimed more or less of the world's attention for ages. 
It is exceedingly difficult for us to give up or divest 



IN IRELAND. -j- 

ourselves of inherited property, vices or ideas. While 
many in Ireland and elsewhere doubt if it would be 
advantageous for her to be entirely divorced from 
British supervision, for my part I would be pleased to 
see her secure perfect freedom, in a manner just to all 
most concerned, for I am inclined to believe her con- 
dition would be improved thereby. Most likely then 
would hope take the place of despondency, and enter- 
prise take the place of indifference, and national pride 
would move toward peace, order and beauty. 

t i Y °, U ^^ heard ° f the graphical beauty of 
Ire and, her emerald waters, her green meadows her 
high picturesque mountains and bright, romantic lakes 
and her handsome cities. I also add my assent to the 
beauty and charm of these things. I saw her mead- 
ows green with velvety grass, her fields white with 
bleaching linen and her mountains robed in white 
mist, but clouds of steam and smoke from factories 
and mines did not cover her valleys or mantle her 
hills. When you placed your ear close to this great 
human hive, the hum and buzz was not so pronounced 
nor assuring as that of England. The cities of Ire- 
land were elegant enough, containing handsome 
buildings, fine parks and beautiful women but the 
country, or farming portions were not nearly so well 
kept and tilled as was England. The difference was 
just the difference between a farm leased and a farm 
tilled by the owner. 

I am now at Larne, on the north-eastern coast of 
Ireland. It is quite a busy little sea-port. A kw ships 



3 I 8 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

lie in the harbor. We take the train going toward 
Belfast. I took a third-class car and found it like 
third-class in France, no cushions and not nearly so 
comfortable as third-class in England. Five good- 
looking and neatly-dressed women entered our com- 
partment. The train runs out with the sea on one 
side and the cliffs on the other. Now we cross a long 
embankment which is thrown up across a wide sea 
marsh, and we see many sea-birds on the green islands 
and rocks, and here are great heaps of yellow sea- 
weeds decaying on the shore. We pass a number of 
thatched houses. Now on the right are seen green 
mountains and nearer among trees, in a green vale is 
seen a handsome villa, probably the home of wealth 
and authority. Here is Ballygarry, a rural place, but 
we did not stop. We pass meadows, hills and trees, 
a country looking like Huntington, between Harvey - 
ville and Waterton. We pass Whitehead and arrive at 
Carrick-Fergus; pleasant little town; many thatched 
houses, one spire and one castle; green country, bay 
on one side, farms on the other; geese, ducks, hens 
and Guinea-fowls. 

Now we reach Carrick-Fergus Junction, seven 
miles north of Belfast, in County Antrim, near Belfast 
Loch, and opposite are the green hills in County Down. 
Here we alight and wait for a train to Port Rush, 
which is in the north, near Giant's Causeway. The 
station-master, Thomas Bunting, was kind and atten- 
tive. Going on we come to Doagh, a small town. 
Some of the houses are white as lime, and thatched. 
Fine, green country sloping gently from the sands of 



IN IRELAND. 319 

the sea, away to high, green hills; turkeys, sheep, 
turnip and potato fields, hedges, fields and stacks. 
Here is Dunadry, where we see acres of linen on grass 
bleaching. There is a fine mansion in a beautiful 
park full of trees, knolls and ponds. Now we come 
to Antrim, surrounded by a fine, green country, and 
there among trees, we see a tall, round gray stone 
tower or castle. 

We pass Cookstown Junction, Ballymena, Cully- 
backey, Killagan and come to Coleraine in County 
Derry. This a pleasant old town of considerable size. 
Ballymena was also quite a large, busy town. Going 
on I counted at least five stone houses in ruins. Here 
is Port Rush, a little sea-port in the north of Ireland 
and seven miles from the Giant's Causeway. 

Here Dr. Adam Clarke was born, and within a 
few years a monument has been erected to his 
memory. It is about the size and form of the Wy- 
oming monument, say sixty feet high and of gray 
granite. Here is where I first saw a real jaunting 
car, which is a two-wheeled vehicle drawn by one 
horse, with room for the driver and four passengers, 
two on one side and two on the other side, over the 
wheels, sitting back to back. The drivers urged us 
to go with them, saying we could go here and there, 
stopping where we pleased and returning when we 
pleased, but we nearly all chose to go to the Causeway 
by the electric railway. 

Yes, it did seem to be somewhat remarkable that 
my first ride by electricity should be in the "Black 



32 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

North" of Ireland There an iron rail, about three 
feet from the ground, ran along by the track and our 
car put out her hands clad in steel gloves and the 
electric current was communicated and we ran quite 
rapidly, the metal hands sliding on the side rail near 
our car where we could often see the flashing of 
electricity. 

As we approached the Causeway, one of Nature's 
great and curious works, we heard a familiar sound, 
and looking, saw a mowing machine cutting the second 
crop of clover on the cliff. Yonder is the blue sea 
with only a few silent sails in sight; the country is 
rugged, quiet and solemn-looking and not densely 
peopled. We ride along on the cliffs by the ruins of 
old Dunluce Castle and look down upon the sea and 
notice the singular and grotesque shapes in which the 
rocks and perpendicular face of the cliffs have been 
fashioned by the action of wind and waves and tides. 

Many caves, caverns and deep pits abound where 
the solemn, restless waves of Old Ocean are always 
resounding; caves in which explorers may go in boats 
and look for strange shapes, places and things. 

Yonder, two miles away, we see the farther point 
of the circular cliff which bounds the wonders of the 
Giant's Causeway. The cliff there is about four 
hundred feet above the level of the sea and it seems 
to be upheld by lofty columns standing on five 
receding plateaux, one above the other. Now we 
alight near the Causeway. About the only buildings 
are two or three good-sized and modern-looking hotels. 



IN IRELAND. 321 

It is after 4 o'clock p. m., and, having little or nothing 
to eat since leaving Stranraer, in Scotland, I enter the 
finest looking hotel and have dinner before I walk out 
with Guide Stewart Dixon. 



- c£=3 i fc=;fr - 



(21) 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 

IRELAND: FROM GIANT'S CAUSEWAY TO DUBLIN. 

GIANT'S CAUSEWAY A BEAUTIFUL AND WONDERFUL 

FREAK OF NATURE FORTY THOUSAND COLUMNS OF 

STONE, CUT BY NATURE, ON THE SHORE OF THE SEA 

"BLACK NORTH" WAVE-CUT ROCKS IN A CAVE 

WALKING OVER PENTAGON AND HEXAGON COLUMNS 

THE WISHING CHAIR FINN M'CUE FINGAL's CAVE 

FAMOUS NAMES GOING TO BELFAST FINE CITY 

FOGGY MORNING OFF FOR DUBLIN INTERESTING 

PLACES SEEN THE ROUND TOWERS ARRIVE AT 

DUBLIN. 

Probably all our readers have heard of the Giant's 
Causeway, in the north of Ireland, for it has been pic- 
tured and described in our geographies and histories 
for generations ; yet, I will try to give a brief descrip- 
tion of it as it appeared to me. 

When the traveler reaches this famous locality he 
will not exclaim, "Sublime!" "Awful!" "Terrible!" 
"Grand!" No; it is not sublime and overpowering 
like Niagara ; nor awful, like the Mammoth Cave ; nor 
grand and majestic, like Yosemite,with her gay-colored 
walls of perpendicular rock towering into the clouds. 
Yet it is curious, interesting, beautiful and wonderful; 
a place where Nature appears to have tried her hand 



IRELAND: GIANT S CAUSEWAY TO DUBLIN. 323 

at rearing pillars of cut stone ; where Nature, weary 
of working in rough rock, had resolved to set up 
myriads of chiseled columns on the floor of the sea 
and thus make a causeway from Ireland to Scotland. 

This freak of nature is located on the northern 
shore of Ireland, where sea-waves always either roar 
or murmur, where billows are forever beating up and 
down the rocks ; for Old Ocean is always attending to 
business and gives to a million brooks the power to 
"go on forever, forever." Industrious, restless Old 
Ocean, whose heaving tides cause Earth's heart to 
pulsate, and whose foaming, wind-tossed billows 
sweeten the breath of the world, what a pattern of 
healthful activity thou art ! This region is locally 
known as the " Black North " of Ireland, a term as 
honorable there as the phrase "Black Republican" is 
respectable in the United States. 

This curious work of Nature, as above mentioned, 
is on the shore of the sea where a cliff about four 
hundred feet high forms a semi-amphitheatre. Until 
you come to the brow of this cliff you see nothing 
remarkable. Standing at the edge of the cliff, you 
look down and see where dashing waves have carved 
the rocks into strange forms, that stand like monsters, 
animals and stacks in the water and on shore. The 
guide points out the stacks, the monkey rock, the 
giant's saddle, the organ, the loom, the gate, the giant's 
head, face and nose, the Scotchman's bonnet, the 
giant's grandmother climbing the hill, camel rock, etc. 
I went with the guide down a narrow and rugged path 



324 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

until we came near these objects and could trace at 
least a faint resemblance to the things named. 

We entered a cave, which was forty-five feet high, 
three hundred and fifty feet deep and twenty feet wide 
and contained fourteen feet of water. It resounded 
with the dash of the waves as any cavern or mine 
does when agitated by sounds. The guide said there 
were twenty-seven of these caverns, many of them 
accessible by boat, but care must be observed to not 
let the tide come up and seal you in certain ones of 
of them. He also said, " We have only six feet rise 
and fall of tide here unless it is increased by a storm 
of .wind." My guide's name was Stewart Dixon, a 
kind, honest man, looking much like many people I 
could find in Luzerne county. The man he made me 
think of most frequently is George White, of Lehman. 
I could scarcely refrain from calling him George. I 
think I did a time or two and then explained to him. 

Now, we have come to the most wonderful part of 
the place — the Causeway. How shall I describe it? 
Your geographies give a good picture of it. The rock 
beneath our feet and on either hand resembles in form 
a great honey-comb. Imagine a pavement composed 
of forty thousand pillars of stone, set upright and 
extending along the shore and into the sea. At the 
edge of the water these pillars are even with the earth, 
but as we get away from the sea they begin to rise 
in irregular steps until in some places they are nearly 
forty feet high. These pillars vary in size, from nine 
to, say eighteen inches in diameter, and might average 
fourteen inches in diameter, and they have from three 



IRELAND: GIANT'S CAUSEWAY TO DUBLIN. 325 

to nine sides and are set close together. They fit so 
well together that you could not put a fine knife-blade 
between them. They are chiefly pentagon, hexagon 
and heptagon, that is, five-sided, six-sided and seven- 
sided. I was shown one nonagon, nine-sided, one 
three-sided and one four-sided. There are no two 
alike. Their sides were straight, but of unequal 
length. It is not known how deep they sink into the 
earth. The longest one visible is sixty-three feet. 
These pillars of unequal size and angles fit water-tight 
and appear to prove how nature abhors a vacuum and 
delights in the union of apparently diverse objects or 
designs. These pillars have seams, points at which 
they easily unjoint, and my guide showed me the 
longest piece without a seam, and it was three feet 
four inches long. The guide said, "You must sit in 
the ' Wishing Chair' and make a wish." I sat where 
one of the columns had been broken out and left a 
circle standing on all sides but one. It was a solid, 
easy arm chair. What did I wish? Why, I wished 
to see Percy and all my friends again in health. At 
one place in the side of the cliff the columns stood 
and resembled a pipe organ. The guide said, " When 
that organ plays the whole place turns around three 
times ! " 

There are many legends told of the place, and 
some people appear to believe it is a work of man. 
The main legend is that Finn McCue, the Giant, lived 
here and attempted to build a bridge or causeway to 
Scotland. Some men think this singular structure of 
rock extends under the sea to Fingal's Cave in Scot- 



326 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

land, where a similar formation is found. On the 
outside the stone is a yellowish brown, but when 
broken it is a dark slate color. 

While some of our readers have seen these singu- 
lar pillars of stone in their native place, others have 
seen good samples at the front gate of Mr. Richard 
Sharp's pleasant door-yard, on West River street, 
Wilkes-Barre, Pa. Mr. Sharp brought those pieces 
from there a few years ago. He has four pieces, each 
about a foot long, two pentagon and two hexagon. 

I have given considerable time and space to this 
curious work of nature, but if even a few school-child- 
ren receive clearer ideas of the Giant's Bridge or 
Causeway, I shall not regret the effort. That which 
has claimed the attention of scholars and travelers for 
ages may well claim our thought for a few minutes. 

I am now ready to go to Dublin, via Belfast. 

From this northern district of Ireland have gone 
many families to America who have made great for- 
tunes and gained honorable names. Among these 
names are those of A. T. Stewart, George H. Stuart 
and the Greeleys ; the Conynghams, McClintocks, Nor- 
rises, Steeles, Blacks, Johnsons and Browns, of Lu- 
zerne county, Pa., also hail from this part of Ireland. 
Our electric car, which was comfortably full of ladies 
and gentlemen, left the Causeway about 6 o'clock in 
the afternoon. The evening was clear and pleasant, 
and resembled an Indian summer day in America. 
As we reached Port Rush the red sun was setting, 
and it threw a beautiful glow upon the bay. Along 
the shore three miles of sandy beach stretches from 



IRELAND: GIANT'S CAUSEWAY TO DUBLIN. 327 

Port Rush toward the Causeway, making it a pleasant 
place for walking and bathing. Soon a train on the 
Belfast and Northern Counties Railway comes and we 
step aboard. 

The Irish people are good company, as a rule, 
while traveling, for they talk with and chaff each other 
freely and are ready to respond to the inquiries of 
strangers. We traveled back over a good portion of 
the way we had come that day and arrived at Belfast 
about 9 o'clock p. m. 

Belfast is a handsome, well-built city of about two 
hundred and twenty thousand inhabitants. I took a 
seat on top of a street-car and rode down a broad, 
well-lighted street, lined with good, substantial build- 
ings of brick and stone, chiefly four or five stories 
high. I put up at the Royal Avenue Temperance 
Hotel and was kindly cared for. Belfast, as a manu- 
facturing city, is noted for the production of fine linen 
goods. 

Linen Hall is a large and handsome building. The 
postoffice is a neat and substantial building of gray 
granite. Not far from the Great Northern Railway 
station a large and handsome business building was 
being erected. It was of light-colored stone, with pol- 
ished red stone columns supporting and ornamenting 
the several stories from the pavement to the roof. Its 
appearance was decidedly rich and substantial and 
evinced good taste and enterprise. I was sorry my 
time did not permit me to remain a day or two in this 
famous city in the north of Ireland. 



328 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

I left Belfast at 7 o'clock in the morning. The 
morning was foggy, much like an autumn fog in the 
Wyoming valley, Pennsylvania. Now we are out in 
the green, park-like country, but it is so foggy we 
cannot see far. It is one hundred and thirteen miles 
from Belfast to Dublin, and we expect to reach Dublin 
about 1 1 o'clock. 

Our train halts at Lisburn, and, going on, we pass 
through Moira, Lurgan, Portadown and Scarva. At 
8:30 a. m. it is still foggy. Here is Goragh Wood, and 
we pass through some rugged scenery and find some 
pretty good farms and lots of stonewall. We saw 
quite a number of small stone houses in ruins. Now 
the fog begins to lift and we see fine mountains in the 
distance. There is a hamlet of thatched stone houses 
standing among trees and stonewalls, with blue smoke 
curling up. It is a pretty sight. Here are green 
meadows and large fields of potatoes. 

Now we come to Dundalk, quite a pleasant town. 
My traveling companion, a young man from the pot- 
teries of Staffordshire, England, said: "Dundalk is 
the only town in the United Kingdom lighted wholly 
by electricity." We pass Castle Bellingham and Dun- 
leer, small towns. Now we run through a region of 
bog and peat lands and see many cords of peat laid 
up to dry. 

Now we run over the river Boyne on a high bridge 
and enter old Drogheda. A fellow-passenger said: 
"The battle of the Boyne was fought here." I saw 
about twenty-five ships and steamboats moored along 
the wharfs. I counted five or six tall spires and towers 



IRELAND: GIANT'S CAUSEWAY TO DUBLIN. 329 

in the place and saw the Castle, a circular and pictur- 
esque structure. It is a pleasant place, and, as we 
move on, we see fine green fields with hedges slope 
gradually away into the sea or into the fog. Yonder 
are men with carts, on the broad sands by the sea, 
gathering sea-weeds for fertilizing purposes. I did 
not see many sheep in Ireland. September 23— many 
fields of oats are still out. I saw a good many cattle 
as we rode along. 

Now we enter old Balbriggan, "where the Bal- 
briggan hose originated." The sea murmurs on our 
left and hose factories click and rattle on our right. 
Here is a small harbor and a light-house. 

Going on we saw a round tower of gray stone, say 
twenty-five feet in diameter and a hundred feet high, 
standing among the trees. A gentleman said, " There 
are many of these round towers, especially in the 
south of Ireland. It is not known who built them. 
The rock and cement are very hard. They will last 
forever. The walls are one and half yards thick." 
They are each about one hundred feet high and have 
pointed, conical tops or roofs of stone. I was much 
surprised to see these stone towers looking in such 
good order and to hear that history did not tell by 
whom they were built. I could hardly believe they 
had been built more than two thousand years. 

Now we run over an embankment, for a mile or 
two, with sea water each side of us. Now we are 
amid beautiful park lands, trees and mansions and 
good roads. My companion, pointing to a fine man- 



330 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

sion pleasantly located, said, "There is Guinness' 
place. You have heard of Guinness, the brewer?" 
Now we rush into the great stone railway station, but 
my companion would not leave me until he had 
escorted me into grand, broad, monumental Sackville 
street, in the heart of beautiful and far-famed Dublin, 
Queen of the Emerald Isle. 



^T^gXI^T^ 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 

DUBLIN — PLACES OF INTEREST AND BEAUTY. 

Ireland's chief city — position, commerce, etc. — 

population the buildings sackville street 

fine monuments grand edifices glasnevin 

cemetery marble crosses and memorials in 

colonnades — the circular vaults — o'connell's 

lofty, round monument — phoenix park carpet 

of rainbows spread by artistic gods welling- 
ton's sublime monument the corsican corporal 

heart-broken red coats along the quay 

beautiful women white hair and fresh, pink 

cheeks — crowned with the glow of an indian 

summer sunset pies, cakes, creams, coffees 

and candies, on sackville street served by 

ladies incog. — good bye — "good bye." 

When we speak of Dublin it causes us to think of 
Ireland; her geographical position, her climate, com- 
merce, learning, eloquence poetry and her beauty, for 
Dublin is the chief city of Ireland. Dublin is situated 
on the eastern shore of Ireland, nearly opposite Liver- 
pool, England. The Irish Sea tosses her one hundred 
and twenty miles of white-crested billows between 
these famous cities. 

A gentleman told me that Dublin contained a 



332 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

population of three hundred and forty-five thousand, 
and if the suburbs, which apparently naturally belong 
to her, were taken in, she would number half a million 
people. The river Liffey runs through the city and 
empties into the bay of Dublin, which is noted for 
its beauty of outline and general surroundings. The 
buildings of Dublin are chiefly of brick, four or five 
stories high, while the public buildings and many 
others are of gray stone. 

Sackville street, (many are calling this O'Connell 
street, wishing to give it the name of an Irishman in- 
stead of an Englishman's name ; but I saw the name 
Sackville still painted on the buildings, and the papers 
too, spoke of it as Sackville street; so it is difficult to 
decide how the name will stand in future years) is the 
broadest, finest street in the city. It is probably two 
hundred feet wide and has four street-car tracks laid 
through it. In the centre of this street I noticed 
some fine monuments, one to Lord Nelson, one to 
Daniel O'Connell and one to Sir John Gray. Nelson's 
is a lofty column, say one hundred and fifty feet high 
with the statue of the great naval hero standing on 
the top of it, while the names of the victories he won 
are inscribed on the sides of the base. O'Connell's 
monument, though not lofty, is very elaborate and 
handsome. The statue of the patriot and statesman 
is surrounded by a number of life-size figures and a 
statue .representing liberty holding a scroll, points all 
classes up to him, and below at the corners sit four 
large and beautiful marble angels. 

I saw a goodly number of handsome, elegant and 



DUBLIN: PLACES OF INTEREST AND BEAUTY. 333 

extensive buildings here, built of gray stone and re- 
splendent and impressive with forests of lofty and 
graceful columns, arches, domes, towers, battlements, 
minarets and spires, porticoes, courts, etc. Among 
these were the Custom House, the Four Courts, the 
Postoffice, St. Patrick's Cathedral, Trinity College, 
City Hall, Dublin Castle, Bank of Ireland, etc. These 
buildings are worthy of description, for any one of 
them would add interest to a city of importance. The 
river Liffey is about two hundred feet wide and is 
spanned by nine fine and substantial stone bridges. I 
mounted to the top of a street-car and rode up Sack- 
ville street and went to Glasnevin Cemetery. 

This cemetery covers one hundred and twenty 
acres and is one of the most interesting burial-places 
on earth. Here are miles of gravelly walks lined with 
evergreens and trees, where marble, cross-surmounted 
crowned, resetted and inscribed, stands in long colon- 
nades to perpetuate the names of departed loved ones. 
The features most interesting to me were the vaults 
placed in circles. I will try to describe them. Let 
the reader imagine a ditch twelve feet wide and twelve 
feet deep dug in the form of a circle about two hun- 
dred feet in diameter. Stone steps lead down into this 
circular avenue, and in the sides of these walls are 
iron doors and bars through which we can look in 
and see the caskets containing the remains of the dead. 
Over these family vaults, on a level with the earth, are 
handsome and elaborate monuments, statues, etc. ' 

In the centre of this circle (for the earth is not 
taken out of the centre) stands the magnificent round 



334 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

stone monument to Daniel O'Connell. This grand 
round tower is one hundred and seventy-five feet high 
and about twenty-five feet in diameter at the bottom, 
and tapers to say twenty feet at the top. A man 
working near said: "The man that put up the light- 
ning-rod stood on the cross without holding on with 
his hands. He was an Englishman, a 'steeple-jack,' 
and has since fallen and been killed at Manchester, 
England." Looking through a door into one of the 
vaults (I counted seventy vaults in this circle), I saw 
the coffin containing the remains of O'Connell. 

There is another of these circles full of vaults, 
larger than the one above mentioned, and at the centre, 
instead of being a lofty monument there is a large 
open place excavated and it contains also a number of 
vaults. The vaults or tombs each contain from two to 
six coffins. These circles resemble flower-crowned 
islands, surrounded by fine pillars and statues of 
marble and granite, reared by the loving children of 
genius, ambition, taste and wealth. 

I found my way to Phoenix Park. This is a 
beautiful and extensive park, diversified by hills, dales, 
fountains, flower gardens, green fields, walks, drives, 
museums, monuments and the Zoological Garden. I 
was told that it is the largest park in Europe. Here 
is where Lord Cavendish and Burke were murdered, 
and in that locality I gathered up a small handful of 
gravel stones, that when I returned to America I might 
look at a small portion of the famous Phcenix Park. 
The features which I most plainly remember are the 
beds, banks, mounds and gardens of flowers. Colors, 



DUBLIN : PLACES OF INTEREST AND BEAUTY. 335 

modest and brilliant, blended in the most pleasing 
forms. It looked as if an artistic god had plucked 
scores of rainbows from the heavens and cast them at 
the feet of white marble angels to form a carpet for 
water nymphs, fairies and queens. 

Here also is the massive and lofty monument to 
Wellesley, the "Iron Duke," Wellington, who met 
Napoleon the Great on the plains of Waterloo, and 
forming his hosts into squares, waited encircled by 
men and horses and bellowing cannon and multiplied 
lines of bayonets; and as the thunder of battle in- 
creased he stood with closed teeth and clenched fists, 
within those walls of flesh and blood ribbed with iron 
and steel and belching fire and smoke, until the glit- 
tering banners of haughty France trembled and fell: 
then the brave men who had set new stars in the 
heavens, shouted, while the silk-clad followers of the 
Corsican Corporal gave a sorrowful wail and fled, 
leaving their great military genius dazed and heart- 
broken on the field where his more than kingly am- 
bition and worshiped plans of his brilliant life lay in 
ruins amid the gory and ghastly fragments of cruel 
War. For size, solidity and plain, solemn grandeur 
this monument surpasses anything I have yet seen. 

It stands on a green table-land, which I approached 
by forty granite steps and walked to its base. The 
first layer of granite is about one hundred and twenty 
feet square at the base. There are a number of these 
bases or granite plateaux and at the height of say 
fifty feet, the plain, tapering monument of granite 
rises one hundred and fifty feet higher — two hundred 



336 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

feet in all — like a solid obelisk of granite, say thirty- 
two feet square where it sits upon the lofty base. High 
on the dizzy sides of this stern-looking memorial, are 
the chiseled names of twenty-eight great battles that 
the chieftain won. 

Though I rather have a monument in human 
hearts and books and in poetry, still, if I were obliged 
to have one of granite, I should choose one like this, 
for it seems so like a symbol of strength and eternity. 

As I returned from the park I saw many red- 
coated soldiers drilling in a field, and others were 
seen coming and going on the street, some mounted 
and some on foot. Here and in other large towns I 
noticed many policemen in dark blue, pacing to and 
fro at railway stations and about public buildings. 
They belong to the Queen's constabulary forces. I 
saw nothing riotous, but in a town or two I heard 
discordant shouts as the train left the place. 

I walked down along the quay with Daniel Duffy, 
a pleasant, sociable man, a boiler-maker, who was out 
of employment, but he had evidently earned and 
saved some property, and was not fretting over a few 
days of rest. He pointed out the bridges and some 
important buildings and was very willing to answer 
questions. 

I again entered Sackville street, late in the after- 
noon, and saw handsome women walking and riding. 
Perhaps all European travelers have heard that Dub- 
lin is famous for her handsome women. Many of 
those I saw were certainly the equals of any I had 
seen anywhere. One was tall and not too slender, 



DUBLIN : PLACES OF INTEREST AND BEAUTY. 337 

fair complexion, bright brown hair, modest, intelligent 
eyes, movements graceful and queenly, but not 
haughty ; others with portly, generous forms, with 
faces, in which appeared the color of roses, lilies, 
pearl and jet. I cannot say they looked like Irish, 
Scotch, English or Welsh, but will say that if you 
met them anywhere in America you would pronounce 
them very beautiful women. However, there are 
handsome women in all places I visited; but just now 
I am thinking of Dublin, Liverpool, Manchester, 
Edinburgh and Paris. But, why do I mention this 
subject, one so little understood by me and so foreign 
to my nature, taste and culture? Why? because, I 
know many men and boys have expected me to say at 
least a few words on this line. I might also say that 
the very handsome young lady with gray hair lives 
in Dublin, for I saw her there. I also saw one at 
Whitby. Indeed, Nature pleased and astonished me 
much by draping such hair around faces so fresh and 
young. In London, near gray, monumental and mag- 
nificent St. Paul's, I saw a young lady move down the 
crowded street as I stood by a pillar and wrote. She 
glanced at me, and we both evidently wondered; she 
at the cool, meditative foreigner, writing on a 
stranger's door-step as four roaring streams of walking 
and riding humanity rolled by between granite palaces; 
and I at her queenly form, fair features and charming 
color of hair, eyes and cheeks. Her hair was long 
and abundant, light brown, tinged with gold, as if she 
wore a crown composed of an Indian summer sunset. 
Eyes dark blue, cheeks like fair peaches, teeth of pearl 

(22) r r 



338 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

and lips shell color. I thought, what a libel to call so 
lovely a creature an angel. Oh, you need not smile, it 
was not a case of love at first sight, for I do not believe 
in such a love, and if I had time I think I could prove 
to you that love at first sight is impossible. 

It is drawing toward the hour for me to begin to 
sail the Irish Sea, and I enter a confectionery, or 
bakery, or coffee or tea house, or eating house on 
Sackville street and find gentlemen, ladies and children 
eating and drinking, served by scores of handsome, 
modest and well-dressed girls, just such as you might 
see attending tables at fairs in America. They 
seemed to be born ladies incog. The cakes, 
pies, tarts, buns, scones, rolls sandwiches, meat-pies, 
candies, nuts, tea, chocolate, coffee, cream, milk, etc., 
were all attractive in appearance and taste. As I left 
the place I said, "Goodbye," and pleasant voices re- 
peated the words, " Good bye." 



CHAPTER XXXV. 

DUBLIN, AND VOYAGE TO LIVERPOOL. 
DUBLIN-POETRY AND ROMANCE-STEPHEN'S GREEN- 
THE OLD SINGER -WEALTHY FAMILIES REMODEL 
GREAT CHURCHES-DRIVING TIMID, SAUCY AND WILD 
DROVES FROM FIELDS INTO SHIPS-ON A BLANKET 
AMONG TRUNKS-DARKNESS SITS ON THE SEA-RUDE 
FURLOUGHED SOLDIERS SING AND DANCE-ROCKED 
ON THE SEA FAR FROM GREEN HILLS-HOLLY-HEAD 
-GREAT RAILWAY STATION AT MIDNIGHT-CARS FULL 
OF DROWSY PASSENGERS-ARRIVE AT LIVERPOOL- 
FINDING MY FRIEND'S HOTEL-MILES OF GLOOMY 
BUILDINGS-MEN SLEEPING ON STONE BEDS-I SLEEP 
ON A BENCH— THE BUSY MORNING. 

Before leaving Dublin I am impelled to write a 
lew lines more pertaining to the fair city 

Dublin is an old and beautiful city, where for hun- 
dreds of years poetry, romance, commerce and war 
have had their champions and their episodes iTe 
member when a child, of hearing a sweet singer sing 
of Stephen's Green » in "Dublin City," and when I 
at last saw these places the old love-song seemed 
dea rer than ever. The tongue of the gallfnt flute 
like s,„ge r has long mouldered in dust and I sha 1 
probably never hear such singing again 



340 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

As I have already mentioned, Dublin has some 
elegant and substantial buildings. The Custom House 
is grand, rich and spacious. The Four Courts is a 
handsome, solid and extensive building, surmounted 
by a broad dome upheld by many lofty and graceful 
columns. The Bank of Ireland is a large and mag- 
nificent building surrounded by many tall and massive 
pillars. This building was built for the Irish House 
of Parliament. 

As I rode with a citizen upon the top of a street- 
car he said, pointing to a fine house and grounds : 
"The Guinnesses live here. They are celebrated 
brewers of stout, porter, etc., and they are worth six 
million pounds. Two generations made it. Yes, they 
are an Irish family ; pretty fair people, and liberal." 
Sir B. L. Guinness, brewer, in 1860-3 restored St. 
Patrick's Cathedral at a cost of about seven hundred 
thousand dollars, and Henry Roe, a distiller, recently 
restored Christ Church at an expenditure of about five 
hundred thousand dollars. The quay walls for about 
two miles along the Liffey are solid and handsome. 

On my way to the vessel in which I am to cross 
the Irish Sea I come where men and boys, with earnest 
activity and shouting and waving of shillalahs, are 
driving cattle, sheep and swine upon the steamers, 
which are that evening to sail for England. It takes 
the cattle from a thousand hills to feed old England 
with her great, rushing, roaring, smoking cities. The 
sheep are timid and do not like to walk the ominous 
gang-plank into the dark fold under deck — a fold that 
undulates on the heaving bosom of the sea — so the 



DUBLIN, AND VOYAGE TO LIVERPOOL. 34 1 

drovers seize a few of the front ones by the forelegs 
and drag them roughly in. They do not squeal and 
roar like the dirty and saucy hog, but hang back and 
protest with great, big, fearful and almost tearful eyes, 
for they seem to think they will find no sweeter home 
than the one they are leaving in the Green Isle. The 
cattle low and bellow, and one long-horned and wild- 
looking steer has escaped and goes galloping through 
the streets, followed by shouting men and boys. Yes, 
this shipping of farm animals has interest at least for 
"land-lubbers," and there are many to witness the 
scene. 

I inquire for the steamer and am directed on board 
of one, and for a small sum a sailor gives me a place 
where I may rest for the night, or until we come to 
Holly Head. There are many men, women and 
children of nearly all classes on the ship, also quite a 
number of soldiers, who have furloughs and are going 
to see friends in England. As the ship sails out from 
land through the twilight into the darkness that sits 
on the sea it becomes too chilly on deck, and some of 
us go below. I find my blanket and lie on a seat be- 
tween the side of the ship and a high pile of trunks, and 
as the sea is smooth I venture to try to sleep, believing 
the trunks will not tumble. . 

Now, some Welshmen sing very sweetly, what 
appear to be hymns and patriotic songs; but the 
soldiers seem to tire of this and try their hands, or 
rather their voices at singing, and soon the Welsh 
voices cease, and then we have a number of very odd, 
droll, or rather coarse, love, comic, humorous and 



242 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

alleged patriotic songs. And later the soldiers begin 
to dance and are quite rude and boisterous, apparently- 
determined that no one shall sleep until they see 
" Merry England." Now and then one would peer 
into my dark corner, and one ordered the sleeper, I 
mean the writer, to come forth. I lay still, resolved, 
if needs be, to let them know that I was an American. 
This was a new experience, for while I was neither 
sick nor frightened, I ever found myself in a respectful, 
attentive and at least thoughtful mood on the dark, 
pathless sea at night; for there we were in a strange 
ship, managed by strange men, (men who should have 
kept better order) in the middle of the Irish Sea, far 
from the solid, green hills and the teeming cities of 
earth. Explosions, collisions, etc., were possible if not 
probable. Still the thoughtless (perhaps I should 
say jubilant) soldiers danced and caroused, apparently 
saying, "We take care of you on land, and you must 
take care of us on the sea." Probably the quaint love 
songs and the pathetic home ditties had something to 
do in causing one to see the position in a strong light 
of contrast. 

At length the lights began to glimmer along the 
shores of England, and about midnight our ship ran 
into a dock at Holly Head, and then for a time all is 
tumult and a hurrying to and fro, and we find ourselves 
in one of those great English railway stations seeking 
the right trains, for some wish to go north, some east 
and others south. I, with a number of drowsy men 
and women, enter a compartment of a car in a Liver- 
pool-bound train. We rushed for hours through the 



DUBLIN, AND VOYAGE TO LIVERPOOL. 343 

country, hamlets, towns and cities, stopping but sel- 
dom, and about 4 o'clock we ran into Liverpool, the 
great sea-port, of England. Presuming we were not 
far from Dutton street, where lives Thomas Puckey, 
circumstances seemed to challenge me to find Puckey's 
boarding house without calling. a cab. I started off 
in the direction of the water side of the city and found 
the place dark, silent and lonely, with miles of streets 
full of tall, gloomy buildings, and policemen few and 
far between. I asked the direction and distance, and 
found I was a long way from my destination and it was 
now too late for cabs. I hurried on and felt uncom- 
fortable when I met anyone except a policeman. Here 
are men lying on the pavement in a gloomy place ; 
will they spring up as I pass ? I moved steadily on 
and was not molested. It made me think of the night 
I was walking in the wide woods at the foot of North 
Mountain, in Pennsylvania, when the foxes barked in 
the thicket. At last a policeman said : " You keep 
this street until you pass that tower and come to a 
hall, and then turn to the right and go through the 
yard by the Court House and go under an archway, 
and you will then come to a thoroughfare which will 
lead you to Dutton street." This somewhat indefinite 
direction I was able to follow and at last came to the 
tall, gloomy building which I recognized as Thomas 
H. Puckey's Cornish Hotel. I knocked, but all was 
silent. I knocked again and received no answer. I 
knocked vigorously and then heard voices within and 
above ; finally Mr. Puckey appeared and let me in. 
Of course, " the boy " was sleeping soundly on a bench 



344 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

in the room near the door. It was 5 o'clock and Mr. 
Puckey had retired later than midnight, and his house 
was crowded with emigrants. I lay on a bench till 
half-past six, when I awoke to find the house all astir, 
some going, some coming, some cooking and others 
eating. I could remember mornings when I had felt 
better, but I braced up and ate some ham and eggs 
and drank some tea and began to pack my trunks to 
be in readiness to contend with baggage men, steam- 
ship clerks, sailors, tenders, ships, stewards and the 
rude, rolling waves of the stormy Atlantic. 



" 7 ^ip^ = ^ 



CHAPTER XXXVI. 

MEN AND THINGS BEYOND THE SEA. 

fragments collected coins of two nations eng- 
lish people ; reading, dressing, eating, drink- 
ing, manners cool no flies pleasures and 

palaces only one america her starry banners 

wave benedictions in distant lands great 

Britain's headquarters — kingdom's admired — 
acknowledging the stars and stripes — london's 
crowds; advertisers, workers and the poor- 
house wedded to a great city thirty thou- 
sand houses a year dream life a fire in 

wheatley's fourteen-acre store seven hun- 
dred drowned, but not missed strange sayings 

enterprising barber prices of various things 

two swift monsters england's champion 

horse died that night dover's fat man. 

In former chapters I have at least partially prom- 
ised to mention the prices of some things, and also 
other matters that came under my observation. This 
chapter, then, may be composed chiefly of fragments 
and things taken almost at random from my note-books 
and my memory. In giving prices I shall call two 
cents equal to an English penny. The smallest coin 
really current in England is the copper half-penny, 



346 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

which is about the size and worth of our old-fashioned 
large copper cent. The next is the copper penny, 
somewhat larger than our fifty-cent piece ; then comes 
the three-penny silver piece, then the six-pence, and 
so on up to the gold five-pound piece, coined first last 
year, the jubilee year. My cousins and friends gave 
me some farthing pieces and also two, four and five- 
penny pieces in silver, but these I understand are not 
now being coined. They gave me coins up to the 
crown piece, which is worth about one dollar and 
twenty-five cents. 

Our English friends have heard of the "Almighty 
Dollar." In fact, they know most of our pet and slang 
phrases and most of our jests. I presume this knowl- 
edge is gathered from the almost omnipotent and omni- 
present newspaper, for I found the English, all classes, 
to be much given to reading papers, and books, too. 

The great, powerful and good-everywhere British 
coin is the gold sovereign, or pound piece, worth 
nearly five dollars. I presume they are called 
sovereigns because they bear upon one side, the head 
of the reigning sovereign, king or queen, as the case 
may be, at the time of their coinage. 

I found people in England, and indeed throughout 
■the British Isles, to be very generally well-dressed, 
and when you saw a church filled with people you 
saw a company well and neatly clad. Nearly every 
man you meet, except those engaged in rough labor, 
has his shoes (they call them boots if they are not 
low shoes) nicely blacked, and I found that when I 



MEN AND THINGS BEYOND THE SEA. 34/ 

met women they almost instantly glanced to my shoes 
to see if I were a gentleman. 

In the families of the middle and lower classes the 
women blacken the shoes every morning, and they 
do not thank their own people nor visitors for going 
out with soiled shoes. It was quite a cross for me to 
have women blacken my "boots," but I learned to 
submit. Now, in this brave, free land I can polish 
my own shoes or pay ten cents to a bootblack in the 
streets for making them "shine." 

I found the fashions in eating and drinking much 
the same as in America. As to drinking, I may say 
that nearly all the houses you enter in Britain will 
soon offer you wine, beer, ale or whiskey, and also 
something to eat. Still you travel for days without 
seeing a drunken man. They seem to think a wel- 
come must be acted, not merely spoken. 

I did not see a mosquito while abroad and was 
not annoyed by flies nor anything in that line. 

I have told you how cool and delightful I found 
the weather in England, although they said it was the 
warmest, dryest summer they had had in many years. 
It was a wonder to me how wheat, rye and barley 
could ripen at all, and generally they do not ripen 
until September. 

I like England, Scotland, Wales and Ireland, and 
was somewhat pleased with fair, fickle, fun and wine- 
loving France, which are grand countries in which to 
travel, visit, learn and rest, for there you may travel 
amid "pleasures and palaces" for a life-time. But 
there is no place like home; I mean great, grand, 



34-8 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

broad, beautiful, picturesque, wealthy, enterprising, 
intelligent, free America. 

Yes, it is grand to wander amid palaces, parks, 
museums, monuments, castles and cathedrals crowded 
with rare works of art, things old, curious and beau- 
tiful, but when you are set to work you come to your- 
self and say : " I will arise and go home to America," 
that great land stretching from the great sea in the 
east to the vast ocean in the west. 

I found people who work in these lands beyond 
the sea rather better off than I expected. In this age 
of intelligence, cheap papers and cheap, rapid travel, 
and wonderful machinery for production and destruc- 
tion, men are not willing to starve or serve for naught. 
I believe that America blesses the earth, and that hopes 
and benedictions fall from her flags as they wave and 
flap in all parts of our world. The overworked and 
under-paid in many climes say, as the starry banner 
shakes its fair folds in the sky: "There is a happy 
land, though far, far away, where 'a man's a man for 
a' that,' and if I am too much oppressed here I will go 
there." 

It is said that when a child throws a pebble into 
the mighty Pacific a wave circles out which never 
ceases one instant until all the seas of earth have 
trembled and heaved their broad, sweet breasts a little 
nearer the bright, loving heavens ; so the words and 
work, and life and death of quite an ordinary person 
may, and often does, "do good like a medicine" in 
far-off lands, where great cities roar with business and 



MEN AND THINGS BEYOND THE SEA. 349- 

fields glisten with harvests and bright sails undulate 
on the great deep. Yes, it is possible for even a child 
to bless continents and comfort and counsel kings. 

England is a fair and rather level country, full of 
great cities, farms, workshops and railroads. Of course,, 
she has low mountains in some parts. 

England is the headquarters, or office, where 
Great Britain plans, drafts and legislates for the con- 
trol of her great and widely-scattered islands, king- 
doms and empire. 

In the British Isles, I noticed that when men met, 
I mean machanics, farmers and laborers, as well as 
others, they were more respectful and deferential in 
their greetings and salutations among each other,, 
than we are in America. The modulated tones, for 
instance, in which Mr. Waddington would say, "Good 
morning, Mr. Nicholson," or " Good afternoon, Captain 
Pearson," coupled with the appearance of well-brushed 
hat and coat and blackened shoes, would all impress 
an American favorably, and make him think more 
highly of his neighbors. 

Scotland is picturesque, mountainous and well 
watered; grand cities sit on her plains and hills, and 
old castles lend romance to many a vale and craig. 
Her hospitality is too well known to need repetition 
here. 

Wales is mountainous and full of mines, and some 
good farms lie at the foot of her hills, while enterpris- 
ing cities sit on her sea shore. Her people were also 
found to be kind, industrious and enterprising. 



350 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

Ireland is green, meadowy and mountainous, 
poetic and pathetic, and some fine cities crown her 
tides and sparkle in her fair landscapes. 

France is fair, rather level, with many farms and 
workshops, and a great, grand, proud city that mighty 
leaders have enriched with the sweat and silver of her 
millions. Her people love fun, fashion, wine, beauty 
and glory. 

A poor boy in London blackened my shoes at the 
street corner, and when he had finished he said: 
"You are not a man of this country." "No, Tommy, 
I belong to a bigger country than this, to America; 
the daughter that has out-grown the mother. I'll 
not go back on the Stars and Stripes if I am in the 
heart of the British realms." He replied, saying that 
he had come from Canada. 

In this mighty sea of London humanity there are 
many idle men as well as many busy men, but many 
of the idle men are quite willing to work, as the fol- 
lowing instances will show : A business man advertised 
for a man for a certain place and so many came to 
answer the advertisement that policemen were called 
to keep order ; in fact, I was told that this was not a 
rare instance. When the boys and young men find 
the places are filled they will sometimes hoot and cast 
dirt and pebbles. 

A man advertised for a carpenter and a man seized 
a paper from the press and ran to the place, but the 
place was filled before six o'clock. All this seems to 
prove how rich and poor are wedded to a great city. 



MEN AND THINGS BEYOND THE SEA, 35 I 

Think of a city so great that she builds thirty thou- 
sand houses a year! Equal to about six Wilkes- 
Barres each year ! One old carpenter, when he heard 
a young man say something about old men crowding 
out others, laid down his tools and went to the poor- 
house to end his days after three-score years of work. 
My informant said he had been a very intemperate 
man. 

There is such an awful rush, and whirl, and roar, 
and glitter, and enchantment in a great city that I think 
some people never come to themselves, but live a false 
or dream-life, willing to go with the multitude to glory 
or destruction. 

While there, a fire occurred in Wheatley's, in 
London, and burned for a day or two. Henry said: 
" His stores cover fourteen acres and is the largest 
business in the world controlled by one man. He 
has 5,000 employes, and keeps 300 horses delivering 
goods. He sells anything called for, and once supplied 
a man with a wife. His loss was about $2,000,000, and 
$15,000 reward was offered to find out the incendiary. 
Four men were killed and a number wounded at the 
fire, and the streets were blocked for a mile around, 
and still London hardly knew the fire was going on 
Capt. Shaw, chief of the fire department, is an able 
and popular man. One of Wheatley's secrets of suc- 
cess is that he has a promenade free to ladies, whether 
they buy or not, amid flowers, fountains, seats, birds, 
monkeys, etc." 

One does, indeed, see vast and endless crowds of 
people in London. Without the great armies of visit- 



352 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

ors, it would require about a year for the citizens of 
London to pass a given point, on a slow walk, walk- 
ing by daylight, in single file. Cousin John said, "A 
ship went down in the Thames, drowning 700 persons, 
but I did not miss one and saw no one who had lost 
a friend. They were not missed from the crowd." 

Many droll and strange sayings originate in Lon- 
don. One man at a public house asks for "half pint 
of mahogany chips, two door-steps, thick, and a Bil- 
lingsgate pheasant," and they handed him coffee, 
bread and a red herring. 

D. & M., "What do those letters mean? I see 
them in many places, even the little shoeblacks have 
them on their boxes." "They signify Day & Martin, 
men who have become very wealthy making and 
selling shoe polish. Day was a poor barber, who gave 
a half-crown to a poor, lame soldier, and the soldier, 
to show his gratitude, gave Day a receipt for making 
shoe blacking. Day took it and made some, but 
there were many other makes in the market, so he 
hired soldiers to go to all the dealers and ask for Day's 
blacking, and soon it was in great demand, and now 
Day and Martin are a powerful and popular firm." 

One of the first things I bought in Liverpool was 
a silk umbrella, which cost about four dollars and a 
half. Good shoes cost nearly as much in England as 
with us, and hats and clothing something over two- 
thirds what they are here. Laborers on railroads were 
paid about seventy-five cents a day, some places a few 
cents less ; locomotive engineers from seven to twelve 
dollars a week ; stokers, or firemen, from about five 



MEN AND THINGS BEYOND THE SEA. 353 

dollars to nearly six dollars a week ; station masters, 
from seven to twenty dollars a week ; farm hands, 
from three dollars and a half to five dollars per week ; 
prints, five to thirteen cents per yard ; good black 
dress goods, sixty-two cents a yard ; dress goods, 
from six cents upward ; hats, from two dollars and a 
half to five dollars ; ladies' shoes, from two dollars 
and a half to five dollars and a half; flour, three and 
a half cents a pound ; potatoes, from one to three 
cents a pound; apples, plums and other fruits, four 
cents per pound ; currants, eight cents ; raisins, eight 
cents ; rice, six cents ; sugar, from two and a half to 
five cents ; milk, four to eight cents per quart ; tea, 
twenty-five to sixty cents per pound; eggs, twenty- 
four cents per dozen ; butter, twenty-five to thirty-five 
cents per pound; tomatoes, twenty cents per pound; 
peaches, eight cents apiece ; green gages, fourteen 
cents a pound ; cucumbers, six to twelve cents each ; 
coal, in summer, in London, twenty-six cents for one 
hundred and twelve pounds ; in winter the same for 
thirty-four cents ; kindling wood, in London, five small 
bundles for four cents ; hay, one cent a pound ; fowls, 
fifty cents each ; ducks, sixty -two cents each ; geese, 
twenty cents per pound; turkeys, large, four dollars; 
cheese, twelve cents and upwards ; bacon, fourteen to 
thirty-two cents ; beef, twelve to twenty-two cents per 
pound ; gas, one thousand feet, in London, sixty cents; 
water rent, in London, about twelve dollars per year. 

After returning home, many friends and readers 
spoke to the author about the great steamship "Ser- 
via" and wondered at the amount of coal she con- 

(23) 



354 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

sumed in making an ocean voyage, etc. They also 
manifested an interest and surprise at the account 
of the fine, large dray horses of Liverpool. While 
in England I was asked if I had seen the "big horse," 
which is stuffed and placed in the bar of a public house 
in Liverpool. The story told me was that the largest 
horse in England, weight about two thousand four 
hundred pounds, had drawn a load up hill, on a wager, 
that two other good horses could not do. 

The "Umbria" and "Etruria," large and powerful 
sister ships belonging to the Cunard Company, are the 
fastest ocean steamers in the world and can make the 
distance between New York and Queenstown, Ireland, 
in six days and a few hours. Their engines have 
about fifteen thousand horse-power each. Wishing 
to know more certainly about these things, I wrote to 
Mr. T. H. Puckey, emigration agent of Liverpool, 
and among other items received from him are the fol- 
lowing : "The Cunard steamers have most of their 
coals from South Wales and Lancashire. They fill 
up all the space they can in Liverpool and they have 
to take American coals to come to England, as they 
cannot carry enough to last both ways. The 'Um- 
bria' and 'Etruria' each burn about three hundred 
and twenty tons in twenty-four hours." 

About the great horse: "He died of inflammation 
through drinking lots of cold water after drawing the 
big load and winning the one hundred pounds ($500), 
as his master got drunk, they say, and did not attend 
to him that night. He was about one ton two hun- 
dred weight. He was open to be shown as the best 



MEN AND THINGS BEYOND THE SEA. 355 

wagon horse and to draw or back the most weight of 
any horse in England for one hundred pounds, and 
won, July 22d, 1857. He died July 22d, 1857. His 
skin is to be seen, stuffed, in the bar at Joseph Bry- 
ant's 'Grey Horse' wine and spirit vaults, 53 Lime 
street, Liverpool, England." 

In a former chapter, when writing of Dover, I 
mentioned the "fat man" who lives there, but at that 
time I did not know his name. Mr. Alfred Martin, of 
Plymouth, kindly volunteered to write to his brother, 
a prison warden of Dover, England, and ascertain more 
definitely about England's largest man. Some of the 
facts written in answer to his letter are as follows : 
"John Longlay, of Dover, England, who keeps the 
Star Public House, back of St. Mary's Church, is forty 
years of age ; six feet and one-half inch in height ; 
weight five hundred and seventy-seven pounds. His 
flesh is not flabby, as you might suppose, but is very 
solid. The chair he sits in is three feet two inches 
wide. He enjoys excellent health. He began to get 
fat about ten years ago. His youngest daughter is 
thirteen years of age, and stands five feet three inches 
and weighs one hundred and ninety-six pounds. She 
is a fine girl." 



CHAPTER XXXVII. 

NORTH BURTON AND SCARBOROUGH, ENGLAND. 

GREEN COUNTRY VILLAGE AND A SPLENDID WATERING 

PLACE WYOMING COMPARED WITH OTHER VALLEYS 

A SUNSET OF GLORY SEEN THROUGH "GATES AJAR " 

THE AUTHOR'S FATHER AT NORTH BURTON — MEETS 

JUNIUS BRUTUS BOOTH MARRIES TRAVELING BY 

RAIL IN YORKSHIRE AT HUNMANBY NORTH BUR- 
TON THE PUDSEYS FATHER'S CHAIR THE GYPSY 

UNIQUE OLD CHURCH SMUGGLING GOOD LAND 

SCARBOROUGH THE SPLENDID IN STEAM-CAR- 
RIAGES ON THE CLIFFS COLORED SAILS FLAP ON THE 

" PURPLE DEEP" CHISELED BEAUTY BETWEEN HILLS 

BY THE SEA CASTLE — SOLDIERS IN TENTS HOTELS 

SHIPS — FISH AND FISHERFOLK— ELEGANT BUILD- 

INGS FLOWERS AND LAKES UNDER IRON BRIDGES 

MEN, WOMEN, CHILDREN AND HORSES ON THE SEA 

SANDS THE AQUARIUM POVERTY MIMICS PRIDE 

GOING HOME A DELIGHTFUL EVENING. 

The indulgent and patient reader who has followed 
these letters for the past nine months, will probably 
be pleased to learn that a few letters more will bring 
the writer back across the Atlantic, to great, roaring 
New York city, on across New Jersey, through and 
over the mountains of Pennsylvania, until his feet 



NORTH BURTON AND SCARBOROUGH. 357 

once more press the flagstones in Wilkes-Barre, on 
the banks of the Susquehanna, in Wyoming valley: 
by travelers, said to be one of the most beautiful 
valleys on earth. There are thousands of fair valleys 
on earth and myraids of pleasing landscapes, and as 
long as the song truthfully says, "There's no place 
like home," so long will all these fair vales have 
admirers. And again, health, friends, love, peace and 
comfort, have very much to do with making our 
surrounding beautiful and pleasing, for nearly "every 
landscape pleases" him who has peace within and 
without. The reader knows how the toothache, or 
neuralgia, or an ill-fitting boot causes the fairest sur- 
roundings to appear insipid and displeasing, and so if 
the mind and heart are torn by pride, envy and 
jealousy or distorted with anger, nature may strive in 
vain to look gay. A lover is about certain to be 
happy at home or abroad. I mean a lover of nature — 
a lover of everything that is beautiful, curious, valuable, 
true, lasting and great. To be candid I dare not say 
that Wyoming is the most beautiful vale on earth, 
for stern, iron-handed Business has come from vari- 
ous quarters of this great land of ours and torn 
great chasms into the dark foundations of our hills 
and strewn black debris in many places, while hissing 
and smoking monsters rush along dusty highways of 
clanging iron and flying cinders. Let the reader 
imagine a valley as large as ours, with mountains ten 
times as high, whose brows are always white with 
snow and whose feet rest in flowery meadows by 
bright waters; bright, still waters where brilliant-hued 



358 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

boats, enveloped in sunshine and music, convey happy 
people to places of beauty, peace and pleasure. 
Where the cold, glittering avalanche leaves its cloud- 
capped home and rushes with an awful roar toward 
the genial and attractive vale. Where rushing, foam- 
ing cataracts leap from giddy heights, and where rivers 
rush through mighty canons, apparently hurrying 
on to join the dress parade of waters in the pleasant 
valley. This is a faint reference to some valleys in 
our own broad land and those in portions of Europe. 

However, I can scarcely wish to see anything more 
lovely than the sunsets I have witnessed standing on 
the river bank at Wilkes-Barre, Pa. The green wil- 
lows and meadows beyond, and, farther off, the dark 
green mountain full of strength and beauty, and the 
winding river faithfully copying the glories of the sky, 
making the heavens look so near; yes, there appeared 
to be two heavens, one above and one below. The 
gates were left ajar — gates of pearl, crystal, amber and 
jasper, and gates sprinkled with crimson. They move ; 
they fold and unfold, and Fancy sees angels draped in 
many delicate hues, moving with grace superhuman, 
their fair banners turning this way and that, as if sig- 
naling to beings above and below, saying: "All is 
well;" "Peace on earth, good will to men;" "Rest 
sweetly, mortals, for ye shall see the sun again." 

I told you in a former letter that my father was 
born at Whitby, a picturesque and interesting town in 
England, on the north-eastern coast, where the tides 
of the German ocean are always murmuring or roaring 
up and down the sands. When I was a boy he wished 



NORTH BURTON AND SCARBOROUGH. 359 

me some time to go and see the land of his birth. I 
had the pleasure of sleeping a number of nights near 
where he was born and where I could hear the hoarse 
waves roar and dash all night. Indeed, it was the 
sound of many waters, so well calculated to drown 
the voice of human beings who might be calling for 
help. Fifty-eight years ago last May my father, John 
Linskill, left his native land and sailed to America, 
being thirty days on the sea. 

When he was a boy he was apprenticed to Stephen 
Pudsey, a tailor at North Burton, which is about forty 
miles from Whitby and a few miles from the sea. He 
served seven years to master the trade. For a while 
he was attached to a theatrical company as tailor and 
traveled with them through the north of England. 
While in this position he met the star actor, Junius 
Brutus Booth, father of the infamous John Wilkes 
Booth, who murdered President Lincoln in April, 1865. 

Here, at North Burton, he married his first wife, 
the widow Rebecca Wharram, nee Major, in 1824. 
From here he emigrated to America, leaving Hull on 
the 3d of May, 1830, and landed at New York June 2d. 

Being anxious to see also the place where he spent 
his youth, and early manhood, and was married, I be- 
gan at Whitby to inquire for North Burton, but as the 
place is now mostly called Burton Flemming, it was 
not so easy to learn which way to go, but my dear 
friend, G. W. Waddington, of Whitby, and my cousin 
John, station-master at Sleights, equipped me with 
maps, guides and railway tickets, and soon I was on 
the way there. 



360 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

I went up the valley of the Esk and saw the high 
moorlands clad with purple heather, where the grouse 
and the plover abound, and passed old Pickering, on 
by Thorntondale, Wilton, Snainton, Sawdon, Wyke- 
ham, Forge Valley, Seamer Junction, Clayton, Chris- 
thorpe, and arrive at Hunmanby. 

At this old village, which is three miles from 
North Burton, I took dinner at the White Swan, an 
old-fashioned hotel, which probably looked almost 
exactly the same as when father saw it, seventy years 
ago. As I entered the place I heard a noise, and 
looking, saw men threshing out stacks of grain near a 
barn, and the threshing-machine was run by steam 
power. 

Near the village I noticed a lofty and massive stone 
archway and gate, through which a driveway led up 
through a grove. The following sign was displayed : 
"This desirable residence to let for a term of years, 
with or without 6,000 acres of shooting." 

I asked, "Are there any Wharrams in this place?" 
"No, sir." "Any Majors?" " No, sir." "Any Pud- 
seys?" "No, sir; but a Stephen Pudsey lives at 
North Burton, three miles away." "Any Linskills?" 
"Yes, sir; one family, Thomas Linskill, a farm 
laborer." I called on the family, but we could not 
trace the relationship, if any. 

I went up over the hill and walked along a good, 
smooth turnpike, which was about fifty feet wide and 
lined on both sides by good thorn hedges. Now I 
look off over, say 5,000 acres of good farm land, in 
large fields, some of which are green, and others are 



NORTH BURTON AND SCARBOROUGH. 361 

yellow with harvests. A grove is seen on a hill, and 
in a hollow here and there, but scarcely a house or 
barn is seen. I found the houses later at North Bur- 
ton, surrounded by trees, and stacks of grain and hay. 

Yes, here is North Burton, a farming hamlet, look- 
ing almost exactly as it did sixty years ago. The 
houses are brick and stone, and nearly all plastered 
over and painted white, and most of them without 
dooryards. Perhaps there are fifty buildings all told. 
I here found Stephen Pudsey and his sister, Mrs. 
Nixon and her family. They were son and daughter 
of the Stephen Pudsey with whom my father learned 
his trade. They would not listen to my going away 
before morning. They had good, clear recollections 
of my father, and told me many characteristic anec- 
dotes of his youth and early manhood. Mr. Pudsey, 
(he was a hardy, well-preserved bachelor of about 
seventy-one years), accompanied me about the place 
and showed me where father lived when first married, 
and pointed out the old chapel where he attended 
services. 

Here is the Gypsy, or rather here it is sometimes, 
but the channel, (about four feet deep and eight feet 
wide), is dry now. Sometimes it runs full to over- 
flowing with clear water for weeks, and again for 
weeks or months it will be dry, so it is called the 
Gypsy, for it comes and goes. This is the only stream 
I saw (or rather, did not see) in this broad, fertile val- 
ley. The soil being gravelly under, the water is thus 
absorbed. 



362 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

Mr. Pudsey said: "Yonder is the wind-mill that 
the Majors owned before going to America, and this 
large farm is where old Mr. Major lived." Here is 
the old and unique church near the centre of the vil- 
lage, surrounded by the yard which contains graves, 
and on the headstones I read these names : Francis 
Wardell, William Major, John Appleby, Robert Artley, 
Thomas Wharram Major, Temple, Pudsey, Ireland, etc. 

Men are at work cutting holes in the stone tower 
to put in a clock. I met Matthew Hodgson and James 
Mallery at work here. One said : " No one can tell 
how old the church is." I entered the church, which 
was indeed unique and antique. I saw the high pews, 
the old oak rafters and beams inscribed with Scripture 
texts, the pipe organ, the pulpit, etc. 

Mrs. Nixon and daughter Fannie prepared a very 
pleasant tea, in which fine white bread, fresh butter 
and. honey formed an agreeable portion. The kind 
people said: "The chair in which you sit was your 
father's chair." It was a well-preserved and easy arm 
chair. Mrs. Nixon said : " In this room your father 
worked with my father, and he sat near that window 
and sewed many a day. Yes, this is the same brick 
floor as it was then, and these shelves to hold the 
goods are the same as then." 

After a pleasant night's rest and breakfast, I bid 
good bye to the Nixons and leave North Burton 
accompanied by Mr. Pudsey, who walked with me 
until we came to an eminence from which we could 
look off and see the white sails on the great and 
beautiful blue sea. Mr. Pudsey said, "Your father 



NORTH BURTON AND SCARBOROUGH. 363 

was a great reader of newspapers; then there were 
but two or three taken in the place and he would go 
and read them. In the grove on the hill away yonder 
is where your father found seventy tubs of smuggled 
goods, tobacco and tea. He and my father watched 
all night there and informed the officers. Yes, they 
were rewarded." 

"Yes, beautiful land; wheat averages forty bushels 
to the acre; one man, near Driffield, had sixty-four 
bushels of wheat to the acre. Oats yield eighty and 
more bushels to the acre." Mr. Pudsey said, "I do 
not like the entailment of property. It prevents im- 
provements of the farms in scraping up money and 
means for the younger ones. We will have to do 
away with the system, for we are getting the franchise 
down." 

We shake hands and take feeling adieu, one walk- 
ing back to North Burton and the other going toward 
the sea. Turning about I saw the kind-hearted and 
sturdy, little bachelor plodding steadily homeward. 

One pleasant morning in August, aunt and I took 
the train at West Cliff, bound for Scarborough, which 
is about twenty-one miles south of Whitby, on the 
eastern coast of England. Scarborough is one of the 
most pleasant and most fashionable watering places 
on the north-eastern coast of England, and has long 
been called the "queen of English watering places," 
and more recently she has been named " Scarborough 
the Splendid." 

The route from Whitby to Scarborough lies along 
the high, irregular cliffs which overlook the cool, blue 



364 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

German ocean. From the car windows, as our train 
curves to the right or left and runs down into shady- 
ravines, and again climbs along the side of high, green, 
cultivated hills and rushes through a tunnel or cut at 
the top of the hills, we can look off on the rolling sea 
where ships with white, black and brown sails are seen, 
and farther out where great coal, lumber and passenger 
steamers pass, going up and down, keeping the trade 
and travel of England at an equilibrium. The breath 
of the laboring steamers look like great streaks of soot 
on a blue curtain. On the other hand we look out 
upon broad fields, hills, groves and hamlets. Now, 
away below us, between high cliffs, terraced above the 
restless tides of the sea, is seen the ancient and pic- 
turesque village called Robin Hood's Bay, where the 
steep roofs of red brick tiles are conspicuous. This is 
one of the places where the famous smuggler and out- 
law, Robin Hood, is said to have done some of his 
most daring feats of robbery and romance: 

Yonder is Scarborough, a chiseled beauty between 
high hills, the bright waves of the sea foaming and 
murmuring on the broad white sands in front, and in 
the rear are vales and farm lands through which rail- 
ways enter the place. As we enter, on the right is 
seen Oliver's Mount, with fields on its side and a grove 
at the top. On the left is a high, bold eminence where 
yet stand the ruins of Scarborough Castle and walls. 
Between these eminences run fine, broad streets full of 
stately buildings. The place is in the form of a semi- 
amphitheatre and the bay is said to resemble the bay 
of Naples. There are some handsome terraces and 



NORTH BURTON AND SCARBOROUGH. 365 

crescents here. I saw some elegant stores, among 
which I remember those of William Rowntree and 
Marshall & Snellgrove, of London. 

The chief hotels are the Grand, the Royal, and 
the Crown. The Grand hotel stands by the sea, and 
is tall and extensive; from the sands where the sea 
almost washes its pavements, to the top of its tower, 
appeared to be sixteen stories high. 

The tall cliff to the south of the city is terraced 
and ornamented with walks, trees, flowers, pleasant 
seats, music stands, inclined plane, and a large orna- 
mental building, called the Spa Saloon, which over- 
looks the white sands and the sea, and where good 
music is almost continuously discoursed. 

On the broad, clean beach are hundreds of ladies 
and children, dressed in many bright colors, sitting 
and walking, while young men in gay costumes can- 
ter over the sands on jockey-clipped and kept horses. 
Here are donkeys for the children to ride, and along 
the clean thoroughfares people ride in various vehicles 
drawn by horses ridden by postillions in coats, hats 
and breeches of many gay colors. 

Over there, at the foot of the abrupt castle hill, is 
the harbor, full of ships and fishing-boats. I walk out 
on the pier and see tons of nearly all kinds offish. I 
see strange men, strange women, strange sailors, and 
hear strange words and strange languages. Here in 
ships and on shore we see nearly all kinds of fishing 
paraphernalia. We see men and women "fat, ragged 
and saucy," laughing at each other's wit and double- 
meaning remarks. 



366 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

It is a novel, yet somewhat unpleasant experience, 
so I went back and joined aunt, and we walked to the 
top of the castle hill, going up through passages walled 
or cut in rock, through heavy gateways, and under 
arches, and arrive at the top and look down upon the 
city, the sea and the shipping. On the top of this 
bold, fresh promontory, we found seven hundred sol- 
diers enjoying their annual vacation, or camping-out 
days. They kindly showed us around, and let us look 
through the tents, and also examine the long row of 
cannon that opened their black mouths over the sea. 

Returning we went down into an enchanting and 
shady park in a ravine in the lowest part of the city, 
where drives and lakes and fountains and flowers, 
and easy seats abound, while lofty and graceful 
bridges leap across the vale, far over our heads. 
Slanting drives go up terraced ways where stand ele- 
gant mansions among trees and shrubbery. 

Nearer the sea and underground is the aquarium, 
where rolling wheels and human feet move and flowers 
bloom above it. A crystal goblet or a metal tank 
may be called an aquarium, but this one covers 
nearly an acre and is placed under the ground to be 
handy to the sea and its waters. You might imagine 
as you walk under the arches and through the colon- 
nades of columns and by the walls resplendent with 
colors and pictures and great glass reservoirs of sea 
water, that you were in a mine from which had been 
chiseled much marble of many rich colors. Here 
are fishes great and small to be seen through crystal 
walls on either hand, while birds sing, monkeys chatter 



NORTH BURTON AND SCARBOROUGH. 367 

and beg for candies and nuts, and "Music with its 
voluptuous swell," sets hearts and feet to keeping 
time. Here also are play houses, bazaars, refreshment 
rooms, grottoes, fine panoramic views of the wide 
world's beautiful and famous places. 

Britain is great on land and sea, on earth and 
under the earth; great in war, peace and pleasure; 
great in learning, wealth and buildings; possessing 
great pride and much poverty. 

Wealth comes to these great watering places 
apparently seeking a nepenthe, and pride and poverty 
come to admire and mimic. If the wealth of the 
world were not woefully and wickedly misapplied 
there would be little or no poverty. 

Our journey homeward in the evening along the 
sea was a delight, closing a day long to be remembered. 
The sun set in a region of glory, and "the white sails 
flapped on the purple deep." As we emerged from 
the tunnel near the peak a vast amphitheater of green 
fields encircle Robin Hood's Bay in a semicircle of 
nearly six miles, where millions might sit and gaze 
down into the sea. Our steam-driven carriages cease 
their rushing and roaring on West Cliff, and a short 
walk brings us again to old Whitby, where homes and 
friends and relatives await us. 



CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

LEAMINGTON, WARWICK, STRATFORD, ETC. 

GRAND WARWICKSHIRE LEAMINGTON GARDENS 

DRIVES — MEDICINAL WATERS WARWICK CASTLE 

AN OLD GLORY SURROUNDED BY BEAUTIES OF NATURE 

AND ART PEACOCKS AND CEDARS OF LEBANON THE 

DUNGEON, DARK AND DREADFUL— STRATFORD-UPON- 
AVON SHAKESPEARE'S BIRTHPLAGE THE ROOM 

WHERE THE GREAT POET WAS BORN — NO FIRE AL- 
LOWED STEALING A PLACE TO WRITE A NAME 

RELIC HUNTERS SHAKESPEARE'S CURSE A DE- 
LIGHTFUL RIDE ON THE AVON COVENTRY OLD 

CHURCHES WITH TALL SPIRES ST. MARY'S HALL 

LADY GODIVA RIDES NAKED THROUGH THE CITY 

"PEEPING TOM" IS NOW BLIND TOM LEAVING FAIR 

LEAMINGTON. 

On my way to London I stopped at Leamington, 
in Warwickshire, where I remained a few days with 
cousins, and with whom I visited Warwick, Guy's 
Cliff, Coventry and Stratford-upon-Avon. 

Warwickshire is one of the midland counties of 
England, and is also one of the fairest and most inter- 
esting portions of this beautiful island. Warwickshire 
is a green and level county, abounding with meadows, 
groves, small rivers, canals, fine trees and gardens, and 



LEAMINGTON, WARWICK, STRATFORD. 369 

some rock-founded eminences where stand massive 
and ancient castles, palaces, ruins and churches. 

Leamington, one of the most beautiful places I saw 
in England, sits on both sides of the river Learn, and 
contains about twenty-five thousand inhabitants. The 
place is not ancient, and its streets are broad, smooth 
and quite regular; still some of its avenues wind 
gracefully along the river, or through gardens and 
groves, among the churches and handsome mansions 
which are spacious, commodious and sufficiently se- 
cluded by shrubbery and ornamental trees. There are 
medicinal springs here, which, for many years, have 
been in favor with the Royal family, and the place is 
named " Royal Leamington Spa." There are springs 
here which are termed generally, Saline, and Sulphur- 
retted Saline. One, at least, of these springs is free. 
I tasted the water and found it to be exceedingly un- 
pleasant. The churches are quite fine. Fine gardens 
and walks, full of rare plants and trees abound, which 
make the plac* seem like a city of gardens, or a city 
in a garden. 

In fact, the whole county, which contains Kenil- 
worth, Coventry, and Shakespeare's birthplace, and 
other places famous in poetry, romance and war, would 
make a great park. Yes, these midland counties are 
magnificent with meadows and still waters, while grand 
trees stand in nearly all the fields, as if saying, " Let 
us have shade and beauty if crops are somewhat short- 
ened thereby." In all my journey I saw no other place 
where beauty, comfort, agriculture and wealth, were so 
harmoniously blended as in these midland counties 

(21) 



370 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

Warwick is two miles from Leamington and is a 
very old and interesting place. The chief place of 
interest is Warwick Castle, which stands on a small 
eminence by the river Avon. This castle, I was told, 
is the residence of the Earl of Warwick for nine months 
in the year. In going into the castle grounds, which 
enclose about one thousand acres, we go in under mas- 
sive arches and go along a broad, deep and winding 
road cut in rock, both sides being ivy-grown and cov- 
ered at the top by a cool thicket, while great trees 
throw out their branches above our heads. This is 
altogether a most romantic place. See the great gray 
castle with arches, columns, porticoes, windows, battle- 
ments, towers, turrets, etc., surrounded by green lawns, 
flower gardens, lakelets, thickets, lofty towers and walls, 
where proud peacocks sit idly smoothing and re-ar- 
ranging their bright plumage, while white swans with 
curved necks move gracefully through bright waters. 
We went through this lordly palace and saw things of 
great age, worth and beauty ; things historic, antique, 
curious, war-like, and artistic; furniture costly, and 
rare portraits and paintings of kings, queens, lords 
and ladies, and of battle-fields fierce, crimson and de- 
cisive. We gaze from windows upon the beautiful 
Avon as it winds through a landscape of rare beauty, 
and there are the old and gloomy " Cedars of Lebanon," 
planted by the Crusaders in the days of Knight Errant- 
ry, when to successfully woo for a fair hand the gallant 
lenight must first bathe in the blood of infidels in a 
"land beyond the great sea. We ascended a lofty tower 
up many winding steps of stone and gazed from the 



LEAMINGTON, WARWICK, STRATFORD. 37 I 

giddy height upon castle, and park, and city, and a 
wide, lovely landscape. We went down dark passages 
and stairways cut in rock, and gazed with horror into 
a dungeon where the sun can never enter. The opening 
at our feet is one foot square, and is the only door or 
window of ingress or egress the dungeon has. If a 
poor, unfortunate, ill-guided patriot or criminal passed 
through that opening he would never come out until 
his lifeless body was dragged out by the hirelings of 
justice, cruelty, ambition or envy. It is used no more, 
fortunately ; and, besides, some of the prisoners of 
state confined there may have been worthy of death 
— a speedy, painless death — but I would let an awful, 
blasting, withering, smoking, earth-rending curse fall 
on and around the man, or the woman, or the nation 
that wilfully tortures the body and mind of a fellow 
human being of any color or in any clime. The spirit 
of the Great One must be exercised if we would con-, 
quer human nature — Him who, as He passed along, 
gave sight to the blind, strength to the lame, food to 
the hungry, and, when His mild eye rested upon the 
poor, torn, cut and raving maniac of sin, he was soon 
afterward seen sitting clothed and in his right mind. 
Water turned to strengthening wine at his bidding, 
and foaming, angry billows sank into sleep at His com- 
mand. At last, when He was nailed up on a hill in 
the centre of earth and His rich blood dripped down 
to heal the wounds of His enemies, He stretched out 
His hands, saying : " Come unto Me, all ye that labor 
and are heavy laden, and I will give you rest." Yes, 
love is the most mighty force known. It is stronger 



372 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

than mountains of rock, and the vast, inconceivable 
force of attractive gravity is one of its offsprings. 

I had the pleasure of passing about two hours at 
the birthplace of the great Shakespeare, one of the 
greatest writers that has ever walked our earth. Some 
of our readers may possibly know who William 
Shakespeare was. He was the greatest writer of 
dramatic plays that the human race has produced. 
He put so much of human nature in his plays that it 
seemed as if he knew all that men then knew or could 
think and feel placed in any condition in life. He 
was born here in 1564, of humble parents. I entered 
the quaint, old-fashioned house and the upper room 
where he was born. I saw the old, open fire-places, 
the black, oak beams and rafters that have stood here 
more than three hundred years. The cottage is two 
stories high, and on the outside you see the old oak 
beams and braces, filled in between with concrete. 
No fire or light is ever permitted in the house. Mr. 
I. E. Baker was the polite attendant below and his 
lady attended above. Of course no one is permitted 
to write or cut his name here, yet I saw no place on 
the walls, posts, mantels or window frames where 
there was room for another name. I may here say 
that I did not write my name once, on my tour, in a 
public, famous or conspicuous place. It is a forlorn, 
sentimental habit, productive of no good.. If one's 
name is worth preserving it will be preserved, and 
"do n't you forget it;" I beg to be excused. No, I 
will not cross out that sentence, for a good name will 
be remembered somewhere. If not on marble and in 



LEAMINGTON, WARWICK, STRATFORD. 373 

books and hearts here, it will "shine forth as the sun" 
in that "far country" "when the books are opened." 

Relic hunters are watched closely here, and as I 
walked over the stone floor, I noticed a small piece 
of stone broken off, and in presence of the guide I 
put it in my pocket; then he opened a drawer and 
handed me some flowers and stems, saying, "These 
are from Shakespeare's garden, and I brought them 
home. We went to the place where he lived and 
died. The house is gone, all but a portion of the 
foundation. We drank out of his well and ate a few 
mulberries off a tree of his planting, they say. We 
saw the church where his dust reposes, and thus far 
proud, intelligent, glory-worshiping England has not 
dared to move his bones to Westminster Abbey, 
(where they should be,) on account of these lines on 
his tomb, which some people think he wrote, viz: 

" Good friend, for Jesus sake forbeare, 
To digg the dust encloased heare ; 
Bleste be the man who spares thes stones, 
And curst be he that moves my bones." 

We saw the spacious and modern new Shakespeare 
theatre on the banks of Avon, and were pointed to 
the handsome Shakespeare fountain that Mr. Childs, of 
Philadelphia, was erecting. We took a boat ride on 
the green, willow-banked Avon, and floated amid 
meadows and mansions, swans and shadows, and 
passed other oarsmen in gay dress, accompanied by 
fair ones in bright attire. Altogether it was a day to 
be remembered. 



374 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

We went to Coventry on another day and looked 
about the unique old place. We stood on the bridge 
and saw "the three tall spires," or rather, we saw two 
tall spires, for one was being rebuilt. The spires are 
of stone, and are said to pierce the heavens more than 
three hundred freet from the earth. They are needle- 
like and graceful, and belong to three old churches 
that stand not far apart. The names of these churches 
are as follows : St. Michael's, Trinity, and Christ 
Church. The churches are very old, and very beauti- 
ful inside. One might spend days admiring and study- 
ing the beautiful scriptural and historical pictures 
which serve as the stained glass windows. We looked 
through St. Mary's Hall, which was erected in A. D. 
1340. This is very ancient and curious within, and 
contains a very handsome statue of Lady Godiva, and 
also fine paintings. St. John's Baptist Church is also 
a fine building. Bablake Hospital and Ford's Hospital 
are also ornamental structures. A guide-book says : 
"Coventry has for centuries been an important manu- 
facturing centre. Watch-making and its kindred 
trades still flourish here, and the town is famous for its 
bicycles, sewing-machines, art metal work, and frilling 
is another manufacture of recent introduction." Any- 
one at all acquainted with Coventry always speaks of 
" Peeping Tom." To those who do not know of 
"Peeping Tom," I will say the legend runs this way: 
A thousand years ago the Earl laid a tax on the peo- 
ple of the town, and they came with their wives and 
babies to have the tax taken off, saying: "If we pay 
it we starve." His wife, Lady Godiva, interceded for 



LEAMINGTON, WARWICK, STRATFORD. 375 

the poor people, and the proud, cruel Earl told her she 
would not weary her little ringer to save them. She 
said she would even die for them. The Earl replied: 
"If you will ride, at noon, naked through the streets 
I will let them go free." Then Godiva consented to 
ride on horseback naked through the town. She 
ordered everybody to shut themselves in their houses 
and she shook down her long hair and disrobed, and 
mounted her horse and galloped through the streets, 
and returned as the clocks in the towers were pealing 
midday. One man, Tom, peeped out of a small 
upper window, and as she rode by his eyes shriveled 
and he was struck stone-blind, and the traveler may 
yet look up to a niche and see the image of "Peeping 
Tom," now Blind Tom. I often wonder how these 
strange legends originated, but presume there was 
generally something to found them upon. This story 
may all be true, except the part pertaining to Tom's 
miraculous blindness, and still the mean and doubtless 
jealous old Earl may have caused Tom's eyes to be 
put out. 

Towards evening we return to fair Leamington, and 
the following day I bade farewell to my kind cousins, 
and departed from this most delightful portion of old 
England. 



CHAPTER XXXIX. 

FROM ENGLAND TO WYOMING VALLEY. 

in England's busy sea-port — going to the ship — 

miss oliver thousands of people sailing out 

into the fog to lands beyond the sea liver- 
pool fades into smoke and fog sunset smiles 

on the sea moonlit highway rockets burst- 
ing above the waves — weeping and dancing 

a sunday fair on a great ship "lovely apples" 

canes caps pipes bog oak, etc. ireland 

sinks into the sea sea rough the snorer 

the winds lift up dark waves many ill sea 

grand alleghenies of water chinaware 

crashes and lights go out tossed in bed 

the deck like a barn-roof not afraid, but 

satisfied comrades recovering mr. g ill. 

After nine weeks of journeying through the British 
Isles and France, I arrived at four o'clock in the morn- 
ing, in the great, solid, busy and wealthy city, Liver- 
pool. It took me about an hour to find my way from 
the station through this great forest of tall buildings 
to the public house of T. H. Puckey, where my trunks 
were awaiting me. I lay and slept for an hour and a 
half on a bench in a waiting room, and when I awoke 
the house and the city were astir and aroar, for 



FROM ENGLAND TO WYOMING VALLEY. 377 

thousands that day were to sail in ships large and 
small, from Liverpool to various parts of the earth. 
I did not feel greatly pleased at the thought of leaving 
Old England; for had I not had a pleasant time, seeing 
friends, and things new, old, great and beautiful ? 

After an early breakfast the hurly-burly begins. 
Emigrants from various portions of England are pack- 
ing their trunks and boxes and securing them with 
straps, ropes, etc., while others are procuring mat- 
tresses, pillows, tin dishes, etc., of Mr. Puckey. Now 
the boxes and baggage are being loaded upon carts 
and taken to the dock. Now, at 9:50, am on the wharf 
with Mr. Puckey and Miss Oliver. Now we are on 
board of the tender waiting to be conveyed to the 
"Servia." 

Miss Oliver is near. Mr. Puckey placed her par- 
tially in my care. She is a Cornish young woman, 
going to Iron Mountain, Michigan, to meet a brother, 
a brother-in-law and her lover, whom she will prob- 
ably marry. 

Great black steamships with red, yellow, white and 
ringed funnels are coming and going, and others are 
moored to the floating wharf taking on or putting off 
passengers and luggage. Some tons of mail matter 
is being carried aboard our tender. Thousands of 
people have come and gone, but there are still hun- 
dreds on the wharf. There comes a large double- 
decked tender from the "Etruria" with a thousand or 
two of passengers right from America. 

Now we move off; handkerchiefs wave, tears fall, 
and the masts, spires, walls, domes, chimneys and 



37^ IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

warehouses disappear in the smoke and fog. We have 
arrived at the "Servia," the great steamship anchored 
in deep water, the same ship I went over on. Now 
we let loose from the great floating buoy and the 
mighty engines begin to propel us into the Irish sea. 
The afternoon is fine ; it is the 24th of September and 
I feel just a little anxious when I remember we have 
not had the equinoctial storm yet. Land has disap- 
peared and we are fairly on our way to America. At 
5:30 o'clock the sea is so smooth we hardly know the 
ship moves until we look over her prow and see the 
white waters roll back to make way for us. 

Looking towards the setting sun, the warm, hazy 
sky, the color of yellowish silver, is reflected on the 
water, and it is nearly impossible to discern the line 
between the sky and sea, except one is burnished 
somewhat more than the other. The supper-bell 
rings ; all are well and have good appetites, and I wait 
for the second table. After supper took a walk with 
Miss Oliver on deck. Saw the moonlight on the waters 
make a silvery path toward the New World. Passed 
a great steamer and she saluted us with rockets, and 
we returned the salute in a similar manner. 

At 7:40 am in my state-room writing. Hearing 
music on deck I went up and found a man fluting, and 
sailors and passengers dancing. I was amused to find 
one woman dancing gaily, who was crying in the 
morning because she lost a ten-shilling piece, and had 
nothing to pay the carter for bringing her luggage 
to the wharf, so I lent her three-shillings and she 
asked me to take a gold ring in security. Toward 



FROM ENGLAND TO WYOMING VALLEY. 379 

evening she sent me two-shillings and I sent her ring 
back, but she did not expect it until all was paid; so 
in the evening, with her mother and child among the 
spectators, she laughed and danced on the great, 
grand, glittering sea. She was going to her husband 
in America, the land that lies so solid and green be- 
yond the broad Atlantic. 

September 25th, Sunday morning, anchored off 
Queenstown, near the shores of fair Ireland, waiting 
for later mails from London and the British Isles. I 
will copy from my note-book. " Irish men, women 
and girls come on board with apples, oranges, lemons, 
caps, mufflers, handkerchiefs, canes, pipes, etc., for sale. 
'Have some apples, sir? beautiful, lovely, loveliest 
apples you ever eat, splendid, sir. Lovely apples, 
grandest you ever eat, a bird pecked that, sir. Only 
eighteen-pence for the cap, sir ; never no wool nor 
trouble spared on that cap. It is just now I came, sir, 
got no money yet, sir.' ' But you will get some before 
you leave the ship.' ' Yes, God is good, sir. I paid 
eighteen-pence for the boat to bring me here.' ' You 
should sell cheap, you have no shop.' ' Yes, but I pay 
rent, sir.' 'Yes, he might evict you.' 'If I had a shilla- 
lah I'd fix him, sure. Nice muffler; you will be tired 
washing it. I am washing one this six months for my 
little boy.' Second woman — ' Hand-made cap, sir; you 
might buy this cap, sir, and take it home from old Ire- 
land and make a present of it, sir. Three ounces of 
wool in it. Handkerchiefs, blue, pink and cream, silk 
and linen, sir ; six-pence each. Have a black-thorn 
cane? Take a bog-oak pipe?'" Thus we lay that 



380 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

bright Sunday from 7 a. m. to 1 p. m. waiting for the 
mails, and the fair went on ; ladies and gentlemen 
walking the deck, while many were reading and writ- 
ing. My friend, Miss Oliver, was found on the forecastle 
deck reading a religious book. " Hundreds of sea-birds, 
white and gray, the size of crows, ducks and geese, 
flying just above the water, or sitting on the water 
and occasionally dipping down as if catching a crust 
of bread from the water. They caw and twitter and 
squeal somewhat like crows and ducklings. 7:30 p. m., 
after tea ; now in dining-room ; people reading and 
talking around. Have had a fine day and quite un- 
eventful, but not passed as a Sabbath should be passed." 
My last letter ended at about 7:30 o'clock p. m., 
Sunday, Sept 25th, on board the steamship " Servia," 
on the Atlantic, just west of Ireland. We had been 
in sight of Ireland all the day long and could see her 
green hills, and light-houses and white towns along 
the edge of the water. It is a pleasing sight to 
look from the sea to a fair, green land, even if you 
have not been long upon the sea. Perhaps I had 
better copy from my note-book ; it will be easier for the 
writer and may be as acceptable to the reader. " Re- 
tired at 9 o'clock; dark, windy; sea quite rough; the 
aspect threatening; many quite fearful. Was annoyed 
by a snoring man. Oh, the snorer! what a mysterious 
arrangement that he is given a place in animate nature, 
I mean a place where nervous and sensitive mortals 
are expected to sleep. This snorer was a perpetual, 
sonorous, spasmodic and explosive snorer. I thought, 
as I listened to his loud solo at midnight and in the 



FROM ENGLAND TO WYOMING VALLEY. 38 1 

dark, sounding and solemn fourth watch of the 
night, of dogs snarling, hogs grunting, bellowing bulls 
and demons defiant. I sympathized with the poor 
palate, for the lungs seemed to have it all their own 
way. I was so glad that he was not a Rip Van Winkle 
that I must watch for twenty years. Now the bell 
strikes one, and I know it is half-past four, and as the 
ship rolls and pitches the watchmen above call out, 
'All is well!' I say to myself, 'It is not all right 
here. Oh, that it were morning ! ' As the lady wrote, 
' I have had tender thoughts, etc.,' but my thoughts 
were not that kind. I thought of the man beheaded 
in Paris, of the one hanged in London and the one 
who suicided in Middlesborough. I wished for hand 
grenades and was glad the ship rolled from side to 
side so he might get seasick. Yes, have all the 
seasickness of the ship. I wished he had been an 
American Indian, then his father or mother would 
have closed his mouth when he slept, and if they 
could not have taught him common sense, they would 
have turned him on his side and all gone quietly to 
sleep; but he was a white man, and a big one, 
and he probably snored in Irish, English, Welsh, 
French and German, and I do not know which was 
the most execrable. If I had a patent on slang, I 
would say ' he was a regular rip snorter.' I got up 
and slammed the door, but the interval of peace was 
very brief. I dreamed of donkeys, horse-fiddles, hand 
organs, bagpipes, woodpeckers, brand new brass bands 
and amateur pianists. At half past five a sailor begins 
to pound with an axe or sledge on deck above us. 



382 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

Surely, now we must all awake, but no, he snored right 
on, not like one of the seven sleepers, but like all of 
them. 

"Morning once more; we arise and go upon deck. 
'The stormy winds do blow;' great waves dash upon 
deck, and white hills roll from the bow of our monster 
ship as she pitches or bows her head to a great billow 
which dashes with a roar on her forecastle deck. 

"Just finished dinner; the waiter said, 'I was one 
out of eleven that came to dinner.' Many are now 
ill, weak, pale, limp and vomiting. The sights and 
sound on the ship are very unpleasant, but off on the 
sea the scene is one of indescribable grandeur. A 
few miles away, the sun, shining between dark clouds, 
kisses the dark waters into broad fields of silver. 

" What could be grander than sitting in this port- 
hole and rocking up and down in a great steel ship 
with a thousand other souls? As the forward part of 
the ship falls into the dark, blue waters, they turn 
milk-white and a light blue and dash away like a 
foaming Niagara, up hill, so to speak, on both sides, 
while the great ship rolls along in a great white, 
foaming valley of water. The ocean now looks like a 
rolling prairie of water, or should I say an Allegheny 
of waters? To me the motion is easy and pleasant 
and it seems like rocking in a vast cradle that sinks 
down into feathers. I often think of King David's 
poetry, where he wrote, 'They that go down to the 
sea in ships, that do business in great waters; these 
see the works of the Lord, and his wonders in the 



FROM ENGLAND TO WYOMING VALLEY. 383 

deep. For He commendeth, and raiseth the stormy 
wind, which lifteth up the waves thereof. They mount 
up to heaven, they go down again to the depths; 
their soul is melted because of trouble. They reel to 
and fro, and stagger like a drunken man, and are at 
their wits' end. Then they cry unto the Lord in their 
trouble, and He bringeth them out of their distresses. 
He maketh the storm a calm, so that the waves thereof 
are still. Then are they glad because they be quiet ; 
so He bringeth them unto their desired heaven.' 

" Retired about 9:30. The ship rolls much. The 
waves roar hoarsely, sailors shout, the boatswain's 
shrill whistle is heard as the wind roars and screeches 
through the lofty rigging of the ship. China and 
glassware rattle and crash into fragments on the floor; 
trunks, satchels, boots, canes, etc., go scraping and 
banging across the floors of the state-rooms; and, as 
the ship plunges, the mighty screw-wheel, in a grasp 
stronger than ten thousand horses, revolves with ra- 
pidity partially in air and sends a shudder through the 
ship. Amid other noises come the sounds from poor, 
suffering people ill of sea-sickness. Now, as the ship 
gives another fearful plunge, which nearly throws us 
out of bed, there comes an awful crash of broken 
crockery, and Steward Kennedy shouts to his lieuten- 
ants to make all secure, and the electric lights flash 
out and all is dark. What has happened? Nothing; 
at 1 1 o'clock every night the electric light is cut off. 
Now the ship pitches, and, as she bows her head, a 
great wave of clear salt water baptizes her with tons 
of water, which roars like a small Niagara as it rolls 



384 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

from the forecastle deck down upon the main deck. It 
is difficult to undress and hang up one's clothes, and 
impossible to lie still in bed. 

"Sept. 27th. Arose about 7a.m. Ship still 'roll- 
ing and pitching,' difficult to wash and dress. Ate 
heartily of good bread and butter, mutton-chop and 
coffee. Went on deck and gazed on the rolling and 
roaring sea. About as difficult to walk the watery 
deck as to walk the roof of a barn in a thunder storm: 
rain and salt spray sweeping the deck ! now a wave 
goes over me and I am wet through, but there is none 
on deck to laugh: I go to my room and change my 
clothes. Now, 9:30 a. m., writing, while many are ill 
and lying in their beds. 5:30 p. m., the day has been 
rough and nearly all are sick. I have been writing 
' Here and There,' and would walk out for rest now 
and then, and cheer my comrades up somewhat. I 

left my friend, Miss Oliver, in care of Mr. G , and 

Miss Walker, and Mr. Hackett and Miss Schwinn. 
She is quite a favorite. She has been sea-sick to-day 
and finds it nearly impossible to smile. They tell me 
if I do not keep in the open air, and write less, I will 
get sick; but I tell them, banteringly, the Atlantic 
can not roll and roar high enough, and loud enough, 
to make me sick. ' Would you like to see it rougher?' 
'Yes, I would, but for your sakes I will say I am sat- 
isfied." 8 p. m., the night is dark and wild; I fear we 
shall not sleep very well. 

"Sept. 28th. Arose about 6:30; rested quite well. 
Fresh atmosphere ; sea is calmer, sky clearer, writing 
and waiting for breakfast. Many passengers coming 



FROM ENGLAND TO WYOMING VALLEY. 385 

around again and reporting for meals. In afternoon; 
pleasant day. People getting well ; they not only be- 
gin to eat but continue to eat. My friend, Mr. G , 

a carriage blacksmith, of Rochester, N. Y., a very 
clever, kind-hearted man, is ill, and I have been nurs- 
ing him and administering medicine, and I hope he is 
now sleeping. I am now nearly ready to retire. Have 
had a pleasant day — some sunshine and the sea is not 
very rough." 



(25) 



CHAPTER XL. 

FROM. ENGLAND TO WYOMING VALLEY— CONTINUED. 

MISS OLIVER WOUNDED MR. G PREPARING TO BE 

BURIED IN THE SEA TOOK HOT RUM AND QUININE 

"GET OUT" MISS OLIVER WORSE THE SURGEON 

ASSISTS STEAMERS RACING THROUGH WHITE-CREST- 
ED BILLOWS — OFFICERS KIND THE MAGICAL SEA 

SHIPS LIKE BUTTERFLIES ON CRYSTAL VASES— SINGERS 

CHEER MISS OLIVER IN DARKNESS SANDY HOOK 

ANCHOR CHAINS RATTLE A GREAT CITY'S CRYSTAL 

GATE — SHIPS, FORTS, HILLS, MANSIONS, MONUMENTS, 
CHURCHES, BRIDGES ON THE WINGS OF THE MORN- 
ING THE SEA'S BIRTHS LIKE A RESURRECTION 

LETTERS FROM DISTANT KINGDOMS CUSTOM HOUSE — 

ROUGH AND DUSTY OFFICIALS SEEM UNFEELING 

TAKE AWAY MY WATCH TELL WHO I AM WATCH 

RETURNED MISS OLIVER'S BROTHER SHAKE HANDS 

AMID TEARS, GOOD-BYES AND PARTINGS. 

Sept. 29th. Up at 5 o'clock; windy and rough 
for an hour or two; many passengers are still ill. Mr. 

G , my good-natured friend, is quite ill and keeps 

his bed. Now, after dinner, we are in a dense fog, 
and the hoarse steam fog-horn sounds at frequent inter- 
vals. Writing most of the day. 

Took a walk on deck, found Miss Oliver with 



FROM ENGLAND TO WYOMING VALLEY. 387 

handkerchief wrapped around her left hand, and she 
showed me a small pink mark in the palm of the hand 
which had been caused by the rusty blade of a pen- 
knife, while she was cutting a lozenge to divide with 
her friends. It is somewhat swelled and painful. I 
gave her some Eclectic Oil to apply and also applied 
a piece of bacon. Her friends were somewhat amused 
at my anxiety. The reader will remember that this is 
the young lady who is On her way to Iron Mountain, 
Michigan, to meet and marry her lover, Fred. Ennis. 
She is from Cornwall, England, aged 22 years, tall, 
good-looking and an unsophisticated, candid Christian 
girl. 

In the evening Mr. G sends for me, says he is 

worse ; has fever and pain, and fears inflammation of the 
bowels. Thinks he will not live to see America, and 
his wife and son and daughter in Rochester, N. Y. I 
was quite surprised at his quiet, good nature and 
resignation. He had been on a visit to England to 
see his parents and sisters and was now going back 
to work and duty. He said, " I will leave my family 
in comfortable circumstances, and I am worth as 
much to them dead as living. I will probably not 
live to see morning. I have about sixty dollars with 
me. I want you to see that Miss Oliver gets five 
dollars for her kindness to me this afternoon, in bring- 
ing me tea, toast, etc. I like the girl ; she is a good 
girl." His voice trembled, and a red handkerchief 
shaded his eyes from the electric light, as he continued : 
"I want to go down right. You will find two black 
suits in my trunk; put the best suit on me, and after 



388 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

all is paid, send the balance of the money and things 
to my wife." I said, " Ebenezer, we will not let them 
bury you in the sea." "Oh, you can't help it." 
"Yes I will." I went and called the ship Surgeon, 
and he said it was fever and ague and rheumatism, 
and he directed me to give him some rum, hot water 
and sugar and follow with quinine every two 
hours for awhile. I remember, though he seemed 
willing to die, he was also willing to take the hot rum; 
still I must say he also took the quinine just as he 
took everything else, good-naturedly, for he was fat 
and jolly, and although he said droll things, he did 
not laugh much. He wished to see Miss Oliver, and 
I called her and he gave her his blessing and bade her 
good-night. Her hand was in a sling and pained her 
greatly, but she cooled his brow with her left hand. 
I retired rather late. 

Sept. 30. Up at 6:30; took a walk on deck; fresh 
air; cloudy; good day for time of year. Some sun, 
not much wind; a sprinkle of rain. Passengers gener- 
ally getting better. Miss Oliver's hand worse; much 
swelled, and the Doctor is afraid to cut or open the 

wound, as I wished him to do. Mr. G did not 

sleep and is still suffering in bed. Doctor came and 
said, "You must get up and move around or you will 
die," He said, "Well, I'll try." I was surprised, but 
in less than an hour I found him and Miss Oliver on 
deck surrounded by some comrades, trying to talk 
and be cheerful. In short, he slowly recovered, while 
the young lady grew worse, and when I was alarmed 
and feared lockjaw, Miss Walker gave me almost 



FROM ENGLAND TO WYOMING VALLEY. 389 

angry looks and words. But I always contend that 
if people know the full danger they are more apt to 
get out of it than if they do not see the danger. Her 
hand and arm were swelled to her shoulder and very 
painful — she could not take food. The Doctor applied 
cotton and oil silk and anodynes. 

Evening — I have written " Here and There" nearly 
all day. We passed a number of sailing ships to-day 
— one very near, trim-built, full sail, black hull, also 
sailing west. The First Mate said, "Yes, we passed 
the Arizona last night ten or more miles to the south." 
The Arizona had left Queenstown a few hours ahead 
of us, and nearly all the time, day and night, we had 
been "racing" towards the New World, over dark, 
tossing billows-Atlantic. In the daytime she seemed 
a black speck on the horizon and at night a faint 
glimmer of lights. After the reader has seen the 
world of waters that always roar and toss white- 
crested billows to the sky between Europe and 
America, he will have more respect for the noble 
Columbus of four centuries past. 

The night is very dark, windy and threatening. 
There is music and dancing on deck by the sailors 
and steerage passengers. Many men and women have 
passed the day playing at cards. Chief Steward Lyle 
and Assistant Kennedy, and Chief Cook Hoy were 
kind and helpful to me. The Chief Steward said: "If 
there is anything you want let me know and you shall 
have it." So I asked only for oranges, apples, figs, 
raisins and prunes. 



390 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

Oct. 1st. Up at 6; clear, fine, breezy. People 
generally well. Saw a number of ships, three of them 
being steamers. Delightful weather: the clouds be- 
gin to look like home. Yes, John Howard Payne is 
right, the skies above one's home look different from 
other or foreign skies. We have three hundred and 
sixty-eight cabin passengers, eighty-two intermediate, 
and one hundred and sixty-eight steerage passengers, 
and an army of sailors, cooks and waiters. We have 
passengers from Japan, Sweden, France, Germany, 
Italy, Ireland, England, Wales, Scotland, etc. 

Saturday afternoon; how fine it is! The sea is 
calm and glossy, the color of the sky. Cooks in white 
caps, and aprons, and linen coats, going to and fro. 
Boys peep in at the door as if wishing for oranges, 
raisins, nuts, apples, or the brown wing of fowl which 
is roasting. Ladies, some invalid, some sewing, knit- 
ting, reading, talking, and others walking the deck. 
Our Swedish friend gazes through his glass far out on 
the sea. 

Oh, look ! there, where a few minutes ago we saw 
only bright water, is now a beautiful ship under full 
sail. Did it come out of the sea, or did it drop from 
the sky? Yes, the world is round, and the ship sits 
there as beautiful as a butterfly on the crystal home of 
the gold-fish. The manifold glories and beauties of 
earth are indescribable. 

Oct. 2d. — Sunday. Arose at 6:30 ; took walk on 
deck. Made good breakfast on bacon, bread and but- 
ter, oatmeal and coffee. Miss Oliver's hand is bad ; I 
fear lockjaw and blood-poisoning. The day is damp, 



FROM ENGLAND TO WYOMING VALLEY. 39 1 

foggy, rainy. Attended religious services in the 
saloon. They were remarkably formal, dry and brief. 
I think the young M. D. officiated. The fog-horn 
sounded for an hour or two. Now, 12:15, I> with 
others, are waiting for dinner. Nearly all well ; 
fog gone; mild, but no sun; people rejoicing because 
they are nearing New York. Two steamers and five 
sailing-ships in sight. 

In the evening a number of ladies and gentlemen 
gathered on deck to sing gospel hymns. They sat 
around Miss Oliver, and her weak voice was heard 
among the others, and her white face shone in the 
darkness like phosphorus. We could not see all the 
singers, and angels seemed to be lending their voices 
and presence. The occasion was as solemn as a 
funeral, and I think many considered the poor girl 
fatally wounded. 

Monday, Oct. 3d. Waked about 2:30 in the morn- 
ing by the awful rattle and roar of the great anchor 
chains dropping through the iron nostrils of the ship 
into the great deep. Looking out at the window we 
find we are at anchor near Sandy Hook. At a distance 
is anchored another great steamer, which proves to be 
the Arizona. The lights hanging to her masts look 
like stars above a distant village. Yonder are light- 
houses on the hills of New Jersey. 

Daylight is coming and people are getting up, and 
I hear walking, and talking, and laughing, on the deck 
above me. I arise and go on deck; the sun is rising ; 
the sea smiles in silver and earth's emerald bosom 
heaves above bright waters, and the heavens show the 



392 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

sign of the cross. Now we see many ships, large and 
small. Yes, we are at the beautiful water-gate of one of 
earth's great cities. A few hours ago we were in dark- 
ness, tossing on billows, far from our native hills, and 
out of reach of the great, busy hemispheres ; many 
hoping and wondering if we should ever again walk 
the dry lands of earth. Now we see a new day and a 
new world : oblivion seems to have given birth to 
these great ships, with their thousands of passengers, 
and we are all borne in through the Narrows on the 
wings of the morning. 

What wonderful and beautiful things have birth 
amid darkness, danger, doubt, and apparent oblivion ! 
The beautiful ships coming in out of darkness and 
billows from unseen lands, made me think of a resur- 
rection. 

When I finished the above paragraph we were en- 
tering New York's beautiful gateway from the great sea. 
We stood for a short time at quarantine, until the doctor 
came aboard of our ship and asked our officers a few 
questions, and when he found we were generally well 
and free from contagious diseases, we steamed on up 
toward the great metropolis of the western hemis- 
phere. We saw the islands and green shores of our 
dear native land, embellished with fortresses, groves, 
light-houses, mansions and churches. The lofty and 
colossal statue of Liberty Enlightening the World 
was an interesting and very conspicuous feature of the 
scene, especially for those who were seeing it for the 
first time. 

Now we see New York surrounded by her sister 



FROM ENGLAND TO WYOMING VALLEY. 393 

cities. There, swinging in strength and grandeur 
above the water, from great city to great city, is seen 
the most wonderful bridge on earth, while nations 
cross it, and the ships of all lands sail beneath it. The 
waters on all sides of us are full of boats, ships and 
steamers, of many sizes, shapes, colors and nations. 
Some rock idly on the waves; some spread their white 
wings as if to reach distant ports; others, with steady 
breath and pulsation, move forward with passengers 
and mails from foreign shores, much as to say, "You 
will make way for me, for I am engaged in a great 
work upon great waters. I have news and messages 
from men and nations from beyond the deep blue sea." 
Others, like floating islands or hotels, with great 
wheels churning the water into foam, and every now 
and then lifting up their loud voices, as if hoarse, with 
excitement and excess, saying, " Ho, there! we come! 
make room! my people are in a hurry to reach the 
strand where gay banners of pleasure, fashion, ease, 
wine and love float above palaces, groves and halls, 
dedicated to feasting and dancing." Now we see 
plainly many of the spires, domes, and most lofty 
buildings of New York. We pass up by Castle Gar- 
den and land at " Pier No. 40," where we had waved 
a "good-bye" to home and friends, that very hot after- 
noon, nearly three months before. 

Soon as our ship was safely moored, the passen- 
gers began to descend the portable steps into the Cus- 
tom House, where we gathered in sections designated 
by the letters representing our respective names, to 
wait the coming of our baggage, which must be in- 



394 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

spected by government officials before we could depart 
with it. The hurry, and noise, and jostling, and ap- 
parent confusion, and lack of considerate feeling in a 
Custom House are things to be dreaded by the 
average man and woman. Here were people of both 
sexes, and nearly all ages and conditions in life, wait- 
ing by their trunks and boxes for an inspecting officer 
to come and examine the contents of said packages, 
and if they found things on which they should pay 
duty, they were charged accordingly. One lady (?) 
had asked the Stewards on the ship to use her fine cut- 
lery so she could tell the officer it had been in use and 
thus avoid the duty. The steerage, or emigrant pas- 
sengers, were taken to " Castle Garden," where so 
many millions of our foreign brethren have been born, 
as it were, into this great country. I found my friend, 

Mr. G , now nearly well, good-natured as ever. 

He said : " I had to pay five dollars on the few things 
I brought over." 

Not far off is Miss Oliver, pale, weak, suffering, 
walking about among trunks, boxes, etc., in too much 
pain to sit and hardly strength to walk. At last a 
woman came to examine her luggage At length I 
learn that I must go to the far end of the building to 
ask an inspector to come and examine my trunks. I 
opened my trunks — it was a novel sight to see the 
wide floor of a dusty rough-looking building strewn 
with everything near and dear to a traveler. Those 
trunks revealed great and curious things — things worn 
and unworn — things necessary, things useful, things 
ornamental, things common, rich and rare ; things 



FROM ENGLAND TO WYOMING VALLEY. 395 

literally from land and sea; things present, and things 
future or memorial. 

The officer asked: "Have you anything which 
should be taxed?" I replied, "I hardly know; you 
can look; here are some inexpensive jet ornaments, 
which cousins gave me for my relatives, and a few 
toys, cheap pictures and books." "Would the jet 
jewelry come to five dollars?" I said, "probably not." 
" Well, I think I will pass you. What is in that box?" 
" My old watch; this one I am wearing is a present to 
my son." "All right, you may pass free." I began 
to pack my trunks again, and for safety I took the 
little box containing my watch from the floor and put 
it in my pocket. When nearly done packing, I took 
the box from my side coat-pocket and put it in the 
trunk, when a man tapped me on the shoulder and 
said, "I'll take that box." I gave him a surprised 
look and said, " I guess not " I thought he was a 
fraud of some kind, but with his thumb he pulled out 
one of his suspenders from the armhole of his vest, 
and I saw he was a detective officer in the employ of 
the government. I was chagrined and annoyed at 
being suspected and protested mildly and clearly that 
it had been seen and properly passed by the other 
officer. Not believing me, he took the box and said, 
"I will send it to the office at Castle Garden, and you 
may get it to-morrow there." He also sent for the 
inspector, and the poor man, pale and nervous, came 
and also tried to explain. The detective said, "You 
have got this man, the inspector, into trouble, and he 
will probably loose his place." I said with much 



396 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

effort to control my varied feelings of pity, anxiety, 
mortification and, at least a little, resentment at being 
misbelieved, " I would rather throw the watch into 
the sea than cause this poor man any trouble." The 
detective went off with my watch. After a long time 

I went to look for him, and Mr. G came and 

found me and said, " They want you over where your 
trunk is." There were several officers consulting 
and finally one old man in the crowd asked, " Where 
was the watch made?" They looked and found it 
was an American watch ; the new one, though bought 
in London, was also an American-made watch. One 
said, "They are free then." The detective wavered 
and hesitated, and finally said, "I think I will keep 
the watch ; you may perhaps get it free at headquarters 
to-morrow." Finally some one asked, " What is your 
name?" Then I remembered that I had a name and 
hailed from a great inland city in the Keystone State, 
and I told them so with some spirit, and began at 
once to prove it by drawing from my inner coat- 
pocket, a large envelope from which I took my United 
States passport, and letters from the Governor, from 
Congressmen, Senators, Generals, Judges, Capitalists 
and others, and very soon the detective said, " I think 
it will be all right to let you take the watch," and as 
I took the little blue box from his hand I fancied he 
was much pleased to be rid of it. In all my journeys 
abroad I had not been annoyed by any kind of Gov- 
ernment officials. But this is a free country, and 
of course it costs a good deal to keep it free. Yes, 
freedom is like gold, hard to get and hard to hold. 



FROM ENGLAND TO WYOMING VALLEY. 397 

The shipmates were mostly scattered and gone. 
There, by their baggage, sat M. Fujisawa and his sis- 
ter, from Japan, little, inoffensive, quiet people, who 
were on a tour around the world. I stopped to bid 
them " good-bye." I wondered how Miss Oliver 
would travel to her lover and brother in far-away 
Michigan, for some had said, " Remain in a hospital 
in New York until better," and others said, " Go on to 
your friends." Knowing the worth of loving relatives 
in time of disaster, I concluded to see her and her 
baggage safely on a westward-bound train. While 
considering what was best to do, a tall and well-dressed 
young man was seen with Miss Oliver coming toward 
me. I rejoiced, for I said to myself, " Her lover has 
come, and my responsibility is removed." Coming 
nearer she said, " My brother, from Connecticut, Mr. 

L ." She told him of my humble services, and as 

he asked Heaven's blessing upon me, tears of pity, 
suffering and gratitude flowed freely. Shaking hands, 
we parted, probably to meet no more on earth. 



CHAPTER XLI. 

FROM ENGLAND TO WYOMING VALLEY— CONCLUDED. 

IN NEW YORK CITY FIVE HUNDRED THOUSAND PEOPLE 

IN CARS ON STILTS CROSSING NORTH RIVER THE 

GIANTS RACE THROUGH AUTUMN-CROWNED NEW JER- 
SEY — BRIGHT MOUNTAINS AND FLAMING FURNACES IN 

PENNSYLVANIA OH, THE SUNSET ! GAZING, WITH 

THE FULL MOON, DOWN UPON WYOMING VALLEY 

MEET FRIENDS ON WARM HEARTHSTONES THE 

WOUNDED GIRL TELLS HER OWN STORY; CROSSES 
WIDE STATES WHILE SUFFERING, AND FINDS LOVER 

AND BROTHER; GETS MARRIED BETTER, BUT NOT 

WELL MY TRIP AND ITS HISTORY TERMINATES 

A PANORAMA OF GREAT GLORY, FULL OF MUSIC, LOVE 
AND UNDYING BEAUTY KIND READER, ADIEU. 

After bidding good-bye to shipmates at the Custom 
House, and ordering my baggage taken to the Penn- 
sylvania railway station, I went to Fordham, in the 
north of the city, to see relatives. The following day 
I returned; on my way looking into the great and 
beautiful Central Park. Think of it! this Park, once 
rugged farm and woodland, miles above the city, but 
now with its rocks, and hills, and trees, its fountains, 
lawns, and lakes, its drives, walks, museums, and 
monuments, covering two and a-half miles in length 



FROM ENGLAND TO WYOMING VALLEY. 399 

by half a mile in width, is literally in the centre of the 
city, and the great metropolis, with its restless tide of 
busy humanity, roars and flashes on all sides of it. 

I again go upon and over the Brooklyn bridge, 
endeavoring, if possible, to grasp its magnitude and in- 
delibly photograph its form, beauty and size on my 
memory. 

I came down into the heart of the great city on an 
elevated railway, a railway lifted up, out of and above 
the street, and held aloft by a great forest of mighty, 
iron pillars. A gentleman said, "There are eighteen 
thousand people at this moment rushing up and down 
through this city on these elevated railroads. And 
each day they carry five hundred thousand pas- 
sengers." 

At about 1 p. m. I find my way to the Pennsylva- 
nia railroad ferry, and with a crowd of people, am soon 
on a great ferry-boat plowing the north river toward 
Jersey City. On the boat I met Mr. R. Scott, of Ply- 
mouth, Pa., looking sunbrowned and hearty, also on 
his way home from England and the British Isles, 
where he had had a grand and profitable tour. He 
was the only person I met during the voyage that I 
had known before. Now we enter the train bound for 
Wilkes-Barre, and if all is well when the mantle of 
evening again falls upon the earth, we can look forth 
from the mountain-top and see the lights gleam in 
Wyoming valley along the Susquehanna. 

Our engine breathes heavily and stretches himself 
and appears to roll up his sleeves and gird himself for 



400 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

the race. Now he hisses and snorts and roars and 
rushes along by the sea marsh, by cornfields, through 
groves, and into and through towns and cities; 
screeching and thundering; not only demanding the 
right of way, but commanding that the way be free 
and unobstructed. 

The artist, Frost, has been at work, and we see 
some of the glories that Autumn throws over the 
American forest; banners crimson, purple, yellow, 
golden and glorious float along the hillsides beyond 
green fields. See the beauty of vine-draped trees in 
low places ! See how the maples blush at the rude 
kiss of the frost! Other trees, seeing the sign of 
death, turn pale. See, a thing of beauty! the Stars 
and Stripes flying over " Menlow Park." Behold the 
beauty of that hill, crowned with cone-shaped ever- 
greens! See the rustic saw-mill! So different from 
anything in England! See! yonder are the moun- 
tains; the stately steppings of Autumn have made them 
a camp-ground for angels. Here are girls gathering 
hickory nuts; beautiful villas among trees; herds of 
cows in meadows; blue mountains, still and dreamy in 
the distance. Yonder is a white spire to add charm 
to the landscape. Now we " race " with the train on 
the Central Railroad of New Jersey. For a long 
way we rush side by side, shoulder to shoulder, wav- 
ing hands and handkerchiefs from train to train. 

Yes, this is a great country; room to race in; room 
to win and room to loose; and if we do not get there 
we may rest assured that there are enough of our 
American cousins there to have a good time without us. 



FROM ENGLAND TO WYOMING VALLEY. 4OI 

Yes, this is "home," for I see peach orchards, 
turkeys, pumpkins, buckwheat and corn. Now, I 
hear the free, off-hand salutations of Americans; 
" How are you, Mr. Hare? quite a stranger! How are 
your folks?" 

Wonderful age! A man hands me a paper and I 
read: "Telegraph messages can be sent from this 
train while in motion." I expect to see Americans 
within a few years traveling ten miles a minute, and 
when for a trifling sum you may see and hear all 
that is going on in this world of ours, when Edison 
and others have learned to drive a four-in-hand, com- 
posed of water, air, gravity and electricity. 

Here are Phillipsburg and Easton, and the moun- 
tains of dear old Pennsylvania. Now we rush up 
along the Lehigh, through iron-working towns. See 
the furnaces and foundries brilliant with streams and 
fountains of liquid iron! See that saw revolving in 
the centre of a shower of red-hot iron ! The ease 
with which the saw cuts the red-hot iron proves the 
the value of improving opportunities. See what a 
glorious amber sunset! beyond the green isles and 
gappy hills, which seem to uphold banners of many 
colors. Ah, there is Slatington. The brakeman calls 
out, "Slatingtin!" I said to myself, "That is a bad 
pronunciation for a place that has slate for sale. He 
should have said Slatingdone. Here is Mauch Chunk. 
Yes, Mauch Chunk, modest little Chunk, you can beat 
great, roaring London in one thing — that is moun- 
tains. 

(26) 



402 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

We pass Penn Haven Junction, Hickory Run, 
Tannery, White Haven, Moosehead, Glen Summit and 
Fairview, and as the glorious full moon rose over bold 
Penobscot, I gazed once more into Wyoming valley, 
and saw her many lights of oil, gas and electricity. 

At about 8:30 p. m. I stood on the pavements of 
Wilkes-Barre, and an hour later greeted my sister and 
family in Kingston, and for some days the time was 
pleasantly passed in seeing and meeting kind friends 
and familiar scenes. 

Naturally the reader will ask what became of Miss 
Oliver, the young lady with the wounded hand. The 
following letters will explain: 

Iron Mountain, Michigan, 
October 14, 1887. 

Mr. L : Dear Friend : — Just a few lines in an- 
swer to your kind letter, which we got yesterday. I 
was glad to hear you got home all right. I got here 
on Thursday about 10 a. m. I should have been here 
on Wednesday, but after I parted from my brother at 
New York, I had the company of that young man 
called Hackett, you remember him, he is from Ohio, 
but when I got to where he had to get out, he would 
make me get out with him, as my hand was so bad, 
and I had a doctor there. He gave me something to 
paint my arm, as it was swollen so, and poulticed it, so 
I started again the same night and got to Chicago the 
next day about 1 1 a. m., and I had to stop there until 
9 p. m. I was so ill when I got there I did not know 



FROM ENGLAND TO WYOMING VALLEY. 403 

what to do, and I did not know anyone; but I got one 
of the girls, that keep the waiting-room clean, to get 
me a cup of tea, and I lay on the lounge until it was 
time for me to start again. But there was a nice young 
gentleman and lady going the same way as me, so 
they were very good to me, and did all they could for 
me. They came as far as where I had to change cars, so 
when I got out to change, Fred was there to meet me; 
but they were all surprised to see my hand and arm. My 
arm was as large as three. They got two doctors and 
they took all the skin off of the middle of my hand, and 
then he scraped it and lanced it. You would be sur- 
prised to see it. I cannot tell you one-half I have suf- 
fered since I saw you. I should have wrote to you but I 
only had one hand, and I hope you will be able to read 
it, as I cannot use a pen very well, and Fred is at work 
and I cannot get him to write. Dear friend, I hope in 
a few days my hand will be better, as I cannot do any- 
thing yet. But they are all very kind to me, and I have 
had three different doctors. My brother, that you 
saw, did not think it was half so bad, as I did not show 
it to him. He is troubled very much about it, but I 
hope, by God's help, it will soon get better. I thank 
you very much for your prayers for me, and I hope 
God will bless you for your kindness to me, and all the 
other friends I found, as I can never pay them. Mrs. 
Hackett was so good to me when I went to her house 
with her son. I must thank you very much for the 
paper. I have read some of it. I hope you will for- 
give this scribble, as I have only one hand, and my 
brother is busy. I hope to be able to let you know 



404 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

that my hand is well, soon. Many thanks for your 
kindness to me. May God bless you. 

I remain yours, 

K. Oliver. 

Iron Mountain, Michigan, 
November 14th, 1887. 

Mr. L : Dear Friend: — After a long time 

I now answer your most welcome letter and was glad 
to hear by it that you was well. I must thank you 
for the papers you have sent me; I received one 
yesterday. I hope you will forgive me for not writ- 
ing to you before, but I have been rather busy and 
had too many to write to since my hand has been 
better. It is a good deal better, but not quite well. 
I can't do much yet. My fingers are still stiff. I 
cannot close my hand. I hope it will get all right 
again after awhile, but sometimes I think I shall 
never have- the full use of it like I had before, but I 
am living in hopes that after some time it may come 
all right again. Dear friend, I must tell you now 
that I am married. I was married a week ago Satur- 
day, and it is much more comfortable in my own 
house than in other people's. I cannot do much 
house-work, but with Fred's help we have managed 
pretty well so far. My poor, dear mother is in a 
dreadful way about my hand, but I think it will re- 
lieve her when she hears it is much better. I have 
got nice company, as my brother comes to see me 
very often, and my sister's husband and Fred's 
brother, so there is some one to speak to from home, 



FROM ENGLAND TO WYOMING VALLEY. 405 

and I had a young man come to see me last week; 
he just come from England, and he was from the 
same place as me. I was very glad to see him. He 
is a Bible Christian preacher. You remember my 
brother that met me at New York? He has gone to 
a place called Cornwall. He has got a shop of his 
own, so I hope now he has started a business of his 
own, he will get on all right. He was out of work 
some time. I hope you will forgive me for not 
writing before. I had a letter from Mrs. Hackett. 
She is anxious to know how my hand is. I have got 
a nice little house and am very happy in it. I have 
just sent a letter to Miss Walker. I hope you may 
forgive this scribble, and may God bless you. I 
remain yours, sincerely, 

K. Ennes. 
P. S. — I must thank you again for all your kind- 
ness to me. I wonder how Mr. Grimble is getting on. 
I often think of you all. K. E. 

Iron Mountain, Michigan, 
August 20th, 1888 
Mr. Linskill: Dear Friend: — I am almost 
ashamed to write you after keeping you waiting so 
long for a letter. You must not think that I have 
forgotten you, and all your kindness to me. If I 
neglect writing I often think of you. I was somewhat 
surprised when Fred came home and brought me so 
many papers, but more s<5 when I saw my name in 
them. I have read most of them. I must thank you 
for taking so much trouble to send them up to me. It 
is more than I deserve. I suppose you are thinking 



406 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

me very unkind in not letting you know how my 
hand was getting on. I am thankful to say it is get- 
ting on good so far, but I don't think I shall ever be 
able to use it as well as my other. I feel it pain if I 
lift anything with it, and I have not got any strength 
in two of my fingers. I can not close them more than 
with my other hand, and then I have not strength to 
keep them closed. But, I am thankful it is so well as 
it is. I hope this will find you enjoying good health; 
as for myself, I have been very sick, but am glad to say 
I am much better. Fred is well. My brother is gone 
from here, and also Fred's and my brother-in-law. I 
feel the want of them. I have not had any answer 
from the letter I sent Mrs. Hackett. I hope they are 
well. I hear from Miss Walker sometimes. She was 
quite well when I last heard from her. I was just 
thinking, it is nearly twelve months since I left home. 
The time goes by quickly. I think it don't seem so 
long as that since we were on board ship together. I 
shall be glad to hear from you when you can spare 
time. Hoping this will find you well, with my best 
wishes and respects, I remain your true friend, 

Kate Ennis. 

The reader will see that the above letters tell the 
story more clearly than I would have told it. 

My travels in lands beyond the sea came to a safe 
and pleasant termination, and as this volume nears 
its finish, my trip passes before me like a grand 
panorama, and I again see the broad, green meadows, 
the fields of golden wheat and barley, the wide, high 
moorlands covered with blooming heather that 



FROM ENGLAND TO WYOMING VALLEY. 4O7 

looked like purple snow; the green mountains of 
England, Wales and Ireland, and the dark, conical, 
lofty and jagged mountains of Scotland. I seem 
again to dash for miles through the dark, resounding 
foundations of mountains, and under cities where 
stand mighty buildings of granite, and vast crowds of 
human beings walk and talk and do business over 
our heads. Again the tireless horse of steam leaps 
with us over rivers and canals, across wide valleys, 
where old and stately cities sit apparently guarding 
gray and solemn cathedrals, massive castles and lofty 
monuments, and parks full of fountains, flowers and 
statues; places where kings had been born, crowned 
beheaded and buried; over fields where great 
battles have been fought, and through fields that have 
been plowed and reaped for two thousand years. We 
run through deep, ivy-grown cuts in rock and gazed 
to where mansions and palaces stood decked in green, 
fragrant with flowers, and where gray ruins stand 
among lordly trees; over high bridges where hamlets 
lay at our feet, while quite near, the restless bosom of 
the sea heaves foamy waves on the white sands 
and shakes a thousand sails along the shores. I walk 
and ride by miles of columned buildings and others 
with spires, domes and towers, and gaze upon many 
thousands of fine paintings and see exhibitions where 
the pride, wealth, art, beauty and enterprise of a great 
nation seemed at stake to please and instruct the 
world; where shining fountains of water and fire play 
to show the glories of gilded lawns, lakes and fairy- 
like structures; where thousands of lovely women and 



408 IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA. 

brave, handsome men gathered to see handsome 
things; where plaided and bonneted Highlanders, 
with bagpipes and drums and flutes, marched up high- 
ways cut in rock, while their ravishing music echoed 
above the battlements of ancient castles and fluttered 
down over grand, proud cities: again I see the tally-ho 
coach drawn by four white horses, with its score of 
gaily-dressed young ladies and gentlemen, and as they 
roll through a street in queenly Manchester, their 
long silver horns, graceful as the neck of a crane, 
sound forth sweet, cheering notes of music: again I 
walk where great guns, ships and engines are being 
made, and again sail over waters green, blue, purple 
and white, and see tall cliffs of chalk, light-houses and 
flocks of white sea-birds. Once more 1 walk where 
soldiers encamp, and where ladies and chilren in gay 
costumes walk, sit or play on the broad, white strand 
of the sounding sea. I remember the moonlight 
night when fair cities slept and the river gleamed and 
long rows of tall poplars stood in beauty as our train 
thundered through a populous and peaceful realm; 
and finally, the many kind friends and dear relatives, 
who treated me with such marked respect, hospitality 
and affection; but I must now bid them and you, kind 
reader, adieu. 







V 

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